Belarusian Style: Traditional And Modern Clothing Choices

Belarus, a country in Eastern Europe, has a rich cultural heritage that is reflected in its traditional clothing, known as the Belarus National Dress. The country's folk costumes are bright and beautiful, with intricate embroidery and vibrant patterns, and are usually made from natural fabrics like linen, cotton, hemp, nettle, and wool. The embroidery on the clothing typically includes rhombuses and other geometric ornaments, with red being the most popular colour, followed by black and white. The traditional two-piece Belarusian dress, which originated from the time of Kievan Rus', continues to be worn today at special functions.

Traditional vs. modern clothing

Belarus has a rich Slavic heritage, and its traditional clothing is bright and beautiful, with regional variations in style and colour. In the southern regions, the national apparel was more colourful and decorated, while the northern areas had darker folk costumes with fewer embellishments. In the east, women wore a "saian", a dress that combined a skirt and top, instead of the usual skirt, apron, and bodice.

Traditional clothing was made from natural fabrics such as linen, cotton, hemp, nettle, and wool, and embroidery played a significant role. Both men and women wore embroidered shirts, with women's shirts being more densely embroidered. Men's shirts were embroidered at the collar, cuffs, and shirtfront, and were worn with trousers and a woven belt. Women's outfits included a skirt, apron, and bodice, or a dress, along with a belt, headdress, and shoes. The most ornate clothing was worn by brides, with white embroidery symbolising death in Belarusian culture, as marriage is seen as a symbolic death and rebirth into a new life with new traits and responsibilities.

Modern Belarusian fashion includes designer brands such as Kardash, Tsu Ran, and ZIBRA, which offer unique and stylish clothing and accessories. There is also a range of well-known Belarusian clothing brands, including Kalinka, Elema, 8 Marta, and Nadex, that produce men's and women's clothing, outerwear, underwear, lingerie, hosiery, and furs. Footwear from Belarus is known for its quality and modern design, with brands like Belwest and Marko being popular across the CIS and Baltic states.

While traditional clothing is still worn during special functions, modern Belarusian clothing has evolved to include a variety of styles and influences. The country's fashion designers draw inspiration from traditional clothing while incorporating contemporary trends and techniques. This blend of old and new reflects the diverse cultural influences that have shaped Belarusian culture over the centuries.

Regional variations in clothing

Belarus exhibits regional variations in its national dress, with distinctive styles and elements in different parts of the country. These regional variations highlight the diversity within Belarusian culture and showcase the unique artistic expressions of each region.

In the southern regions, the national apparel was more colourful and decorated, while the northern areas had darker folk costumes with fewer embellishments. In the eastern territories, women wore a garment called a "saian" instead of the usual combination of a skirt, apron, and bodice. The "saian" is a dress where the skirt and top are sewn together.

The embroidery patterns on shirts also varied according to region and could indicate a woman's marital status. For example, married women typically wore shirts adorned with traditional red embroidery, while brides wore shirts with a lot of white embroidery, symbolising death in Belarusian culture as marriage is compared to death—the symbolic end of a young girl's life as she takes on new responsibilities.

The headwear also differed between regions. Men wore straw hats in the summer and woollen or fur hats in the winter, while women wore headscarves, or "kryzma", decorated with floral motifs.

The footwear also varied, with men wearing leather boots and women wearing embroidered slippers.

Clothing for men and women

The traditional two-piece Belarusian dress is still worn today at special functions. The clothes are designed to provide closed covering and warmth, given the country's cool climate. They are made from natural fabrics such as linen, cotton, hemp, nettle, and wool, and are either woven with many threads of different colours or adorned with symbolic ornaments.

Men's folk costumes in Belarus are simpler and less diverse than women's. Men wear an embroidered shirt, trousers, a woven belt, outerwear, a hat, and shoes. The shirts are usually embroidered at the collar, cuffs, and shirtfront, and are always worn with a belt. The trousers are simple and unadorned, reaching below the knee. The outerwear can be a coat, jacket, or vest, often made from thick handmade wool, especially light grey wool, and adorned with red embroidery. Men's headwear includes straw hats in summer and woollen or fur hats in winter.

Women's traditional attire includes an embroidered long-sleeved shirt, a skirt, an apron, a bodice, a belt, a headdress, and shoes. The most decorated clothing is worn by brides and brides-to-be, with densely embroidered shirts and headdresses with colourful ribbons or flowers. Married women wear shirts adorned with red embroidery and a kerchief or wimple as a headdress. Another garment worn by grown women is the "paniova", a woven wrap-around skirt with woven patterns that can be extremely complicated and labour-intensive. The traditional footwear for women is embroidered slippers.

The colours and patterns of men's clothing are generally more subdued, emphasising simplicity and functionality, while women's clothing features intricate embroidery and vibrant patterns.

Headwear and footwear

For headwear, Belarusian women typically wear a headscarf called a "kryzma". These scarves are often adorned with floral motifs and are seen as a symbol of femininity and modesty. On the other hand, men's headwear varies depending on the region and season. During the summer, they don straw hats, while woollen or fur hats are preferred in winter.

As for footwear, traditional Belarusian men usually wear leather boots. In contrast, women often wear embroidered slippers or "bast shoes". These footwear choices are not only functional but also aesthetically pleasing, complementing the overall appearance of the national dress. The "bast shoes" are made from bast, a strong textile fibre produced from the bark of the lime tree, which is native to Europe.

The Belarus National Dress showcases the artistic skills of Belarusian craftsmen and women, with intricate embroidery and vibrant patterns adorning both the clothing and accessories. The embroidery holds symbolic significance, with each colour and motif carrying a specific meaning that represents various aspects of Belarusian culture. For instance, the colour red symbolises vitality and passion, while green represents nature and fertility.

The national dress of Belarus is a source of pride for the country's citizens, and its rich history and cultural significance continue to inspire modern fashion trends, both within Belarus and internationally.

The use of embroidery

History and Tradition:

Embroidery has played a significant role in Belarusian culture, with its origins tracing back to the early days of the country's history. The art form was almost exclusively practised by women, who adorned their national costumes with intricate patterns and ornaments. The earliest examples of Belarusian embroidery can be found on the remains of leather shoes from the 4th to 9th centuries, featuring simple geometric patterns such as diamonds, squares, crosses, and triangles.

Regional Variations:

The traditional clothing of Belarus varied across different regions of the country. For instance, the southern regions favoured more colourful and decorated apparel, while the northern areas opted for darker and less embellished styles. Women in the eastern territories wore a unique garment called a "saian", which is a dress with a skirt and top sewn together. Despite these regional differences, embroidery was a common element in all Belarusian traditional attire.

Symbolic Meanings:

The patterns and colours used in Belarusian embroidery hold symbolic meanings and sacred significance. The traditional colours of red and white are particularly important. Red symbolises blood, life, and the sun, while white represents freedom and purity. Additionally, embroidery patterns often incorporated pagan mythological symbols, such as the sun, the tree of life, birds, and water.

Types of Garments Embroidered:

Embroidery was commonly used to decorate a variety of garments in Belarus. Both men and women wore embroidered shirts, with women typically adding more elaborate embroidery to their sleeves, collars, cuffs, and hems. Other items adorned with embroidery included aprons, outerwear, headdresses, neck scarves, tablecloths, and ritual towels. The embroidery served not only as decoration but was believed to offer protection against evil forces and bring good luck.

Techniques and Materials:

Belarusian embroidery is characterised by the combination of various techniques and methods, resulting in a textural and compositional whole. The embroidery techniques include "forward igloo", "for the needle", "stalked", "set", and "cross-stitch". The embroiderers used natural materials such as cotton, linen, and woollen threads in colours like red, blue, black, and white.

Social Significance:

In the past, when most Belarusian women were illiterate, embroidery served as a means of expression and a way to depict their surrounding life. The geometric patterns and symbols they embroidered onto their clothing became a form of coded communication, conveying hidden meanings and messages. Embroidery was also a way for women to prepare their dowries, as it was customary for a bride to have at least 40 embroidered towels for her wedding.

Frequently asked questions