Virginia's Brunswick Stew: A Historical Comfort Food

Brunswick stew is a classic Southern dish that is especially popular in Virginia. It is a thick stew made with tomatoes, potatoes, and meat. The dish is believed to have originated in the 1800s, and there is debate over whether it was first created in Virginia or Georgia. While the original recipe used squirrel, modern versions typically use chicken, pork, or beef. The dish is often served with cornbread and is a popular comfort food in the region.

History of Brunswick Stew

The history of Brunswick stew is a contentious topic, with both Brunswick County, Virginia, and Brunswick, Georgia, claiming to be the birthplace of the dish. While the debate has been largely amicable, it has also sparked a "stew war" between the two states, with each insisting that their version is the "real" Brunswick stew.

The Virginia Claim

Brunswick County, Virginia, has a long-standing tradition of being the birthplace of Brunswick stew. The story goes that in 1828, an African American hunting-camp cook named Jimmy Matthews created a squirrel stew for his enslaver, Creed Haskins, a member of the House of Delegates. Matthews is said to have simmered the squirrels with butter, onions, stale bread, and seasoning, thus creating Brunswick stew, named for its home county. This claim is supported by a 1988 proclamation by the Virginia General Assembly, which honoured Brunswick County as the official birthplace of the dish.

The Georgia Claim

Brunswick, Georgia, also lays claim to the invention of Brunswick stew, pointing to a 25-gallon cast-iron pot outside the coastal town. A plaque on the pot declares it to be the vessel in which the first Brunswick stew was cooked in 1898. However, this claim has been disputed, as there are written accounts of a dish called Brunswick stew being cooked in Virginia prior to the Civil War. Additionally, the Georgia version of the stew typically includes beef and pork, which were not available in the state until after the Civil War.

The Native American Influence

While the debate between Virginia and Georgia continues, it is important to acknowledge the influence of Native American cuisine on Brunswick stew. Southeastern Native Americans are believed to have made stews from squirrels, groundhogs, and hominy, as well as boiling game meat such as bear and deer with fresh corn and squash. These culinary traditions were shared with European settlers, and many classic American dishes, including Brunswick stew, have Native American roots.

Ingredients and recipe

Brunswick stew is a classic Virginia dish, with a long history and many variations. The original recipe is thought to date back to 1828 and was made with squirrel and other game meats. Today, it is more common to use chicken, and sometimes pork or beef. The stew also typically includes vegetables such as tomatoes, potatoes, corn, and lima beans.

Ingredients:

• 4 slices (about 5 1/3 oz) thick-cut bacon, chopped
• 4 cups chicken broth
• 2 medium russet potatoes (about 1 lb.), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 rotisserie chicken (about 3 lbs.), meat removed and chopped (about 4 cups)
• 1 (28 oz) can diced tomatoes, not drained
• 4 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
• 2 cups fresh or frozen lima beans
• 2 cups fresh or frozen sliced okra (optional)
• 1-2 tablespoons light brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar (apple cider vinegar also works well)
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste

Method:

• In a large pot, cook the bacon over medium-high heat until almost crisp, about 5 minutes.
• Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 more minutes.
• Add chicken broth and potatoes; bring to a boil. Boil until potatoes begin to soften, about 10 minutes.
• Reduce heat to low. Stir in the tomato paste.
• Add chicken, diced tomatoes, corn, lima beans, okra (if using), brown sugar, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Stir well.
• Cover and simmer for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally. The stew should be very thick. To thicken the stew further, simmer uncovered. To thin the stew, add more broth or water.
• Taste and season with additional salt and pepper, if necessary.
• Ladle into bowls and serve!

Tips:

• If you prefer, you can omit the potatoes.
• Instead of a rotisserie chicken, use about 4 cups of cooked, diced chicken that you boil at home or that you have leftover from another meal.
• Okra can be a controversial vegetable, so leave it out of the stew if you don’t care for it.
• If they’re available, use butter beans instead of lima beans.
• For a smokier flavour, swap out the bacon and use fatback instead.
• Brunswick stew typically has a sweet-and-sour flavour. You can add more tang by stirring in ketchup or BBQ sauce instead of the brown sugar, or adding an extra splash of vinegar.
• For a spicier stew, add some cayenne or hot sauce.
• This recipe can easily be adapted to use leftover Thanksgiving turkey instead of, or as well as, the chicken.

Virginia vs Georgia

Virginia and Georgia have been rivals for years, both claiming to have invented the original Brunswick stew. While the exact origins of the dish are unclear, there is evidence to support that it came from Virginia. Here is a detailed comparison of the two states' versions of the iconic dish.

History

The first recorded reference to Brunswick stew was in a novel called "The Hidden Path," written in 1855. However, the novel simply mentions the dish by name, assuming readers would know what it is. The official creation of Brunswick stew is attributed to Jimmy Matthews, a camp cook for a party of wealthy Virginians in 1828. There is a plaque in Brunswick County, Virginia, commemorating this event. Matthews is believed to have been either a slave or a poor white man employed by Creed Haskins, one of the hunters in the party.

On the other hand, the earliest known reference to Brunswick stew in Georgia is in the 1890s, and it is referred to as "an old Virginia stew." This suggests that the dish had already been established in Virginia before it gained popularity in Georgia.

Ingredients

Both states' versions of the stew include a variety of meats and vegetables. The primary difference lies in the choice of meat. Virginia's Brunswick stew typically features chicken as the main meat, while Georgia's version favours pork and beef.

In Virginia, the stew is often made with a combination of chicken, bacon, potatoes, onion, lima beans, okra, tomatoes, and corn. The broth has a slightly sweet and sour taste, achieved with brown sugar and vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce adds depth of flavour.

Georgia's Brunswick stew, on the other hand, is more likely to include pork barbecue, either leftover or fresh, and sometimes includes barbecue sauce. Their version may also include chicken or rabbit, and other optional ingredients such as salt pork, bacon, ham, onion, okra, cayenne pepper, and Worcestershire sauce.

Preparation

The traditional Virginia Brunswick stew is cooked slowly, with the meat simmering gently in broth before other ingredients are added. The stew is meant to be cooked for a long time, resulting in a thick consistency.

Georgia's version also involves slow cooking, with all the ingredients combined and simmered for hours to blend the flavours.

While both Virginia and Georgia have laid claim to the creation of Brunswick stew, the evidence suggests that the dish has deeper roots in Virginia. The choice of meat and the preparation methods differ slightly between the two states, but both versions have become beloved staples in their respective regions.

How to store Brunswick Stew

Brunswick stew is a hearty dish, but you may still have leftovers. Here is some advice on how to store it.

Refrigerating Brunswick Stew

Allow your leftover Brunswick stew to cool, then transfer it to an airtight container. You can store it in the refrigerator for up to four days. Reheat it in the microwave or on the stove when you are ready to eat it again.

Freezing Brunswick Stew

You can also freeze Brunswick stew. Again, wait for it to cool, then place it in a container suitable for freezing. It will keep in the freezer for up to three months. Thaw it in the refrigerator overnight and then reheat it in the microwave or on the stove.

Restaurants serving Brunswick Stew

While Brunswick stew is a popular dish in Virginia, it's not always easy to find in restaurants. Here are some of the best places to get your Brunswick stew fix in the state:

Buz and Ned's Real Barbecue, Richmond

According to some, this spot serves the best Brunswick stew not just in Richmond but in the whole of Virginia.

SMoHK RVA BBQ, Richmond

An honourable mention for the best Brunswick stew in Richmond.

Carter's Pigpen Bar-B-Que, Mechanicsville

Another highly-rated place to get your Brunswick stew fix in the Richmond area.

Red Hot & Blue, NoVa

With multiple locations in Fairfax, Red Hot & Blue is the go-to spot for Brunswick stew in Northern Virginia. They fill their stew with pulled pork, shredded chicken, and Texas brisket.

Beach Bully BBQ, Virginia Beach

Beach Bully BBQ is the place to go for Brunswick stew by the beach. They serve up delicious, old-school BBQ goodness.

BBQ Exchange, Southwest Virginia

One in three Southwest Virginia readers agree that BBQ Exchange serves the best Brunswick stew in the region.

Old City Barbecue, Williamsburg

A popular write-in vote for the best Brunswick stew in Williamsburg.

Pierce's Pitt Bar-B-Que, Williamsburg

Another top spot in Williamsburg for Brunswick stew, according to local readers.

Frequently asked questions