Brunswick Stew: A Southern Comfort Mystery

The exact origin of Brunswick stew is disputed. The US states of Virginia and Georgia both claim its creation, with Brunswick County in Virginia and the city of Brunswick in Georgia arguing that it was developed there. However, some sources suggest that the dish may have originated in the city of Braunschweig in Germany, which was historically known as Brunswick in British English.

Virginia's Early Record of Brunswick Stew

While the exact origin of Brunswick stew is disputed, there is plenty of evidence to suggest that it was cooked in Virginia before it was in Georgia. There are written accounts of a dish called Brunswick stew being cooked in Virginia before the Civil War. In 1849, the Alexandria Gazette described the dish as a "genuine South-side dish, composed of squirrels, chicken, a little bacon, and corn and tomatoes".

In 1855, the Petersburg Intelligencer explained the stew's origin, noting that in Brunswick County, Virginia, it was popular during the hot summers to "repair almost every Saturday to some spring, to spend half the day". For entertainment, the men would shoot squirrels and stew them "in a pot with a sufficient quantity of water... over a slow fire". Tomatoes, corn, butter beans, potatoes, salt, and cayenne pepper would be added later.

Over time, more details were added to the Virginia origin tale. Accounts from the 1880s attributed the recipe to a noted hunter and cook named James (or Jimmy) Matthews from the Red Oak neighbourhood in Brunswick County. These stories were recorded about 70 years after the supposed creation of the first stew, so they should be taken with a grain of salt. However, all signs point clearly to Virginia as the place of origin.

Supporting this claim is the fact that the first mention of Brunswick stew in a Georgia newspaper wasn't until 1871. In an advertisement for Med Henderson's saloon in Savannah, the stew was promoted as a daily free lunch item, but interestingly, it was called "Old Virginia Brunswick Stew".

Folklore traces the roots of the stew to 1828 when stew masters would throw wild game into a pot with lima beans, corn, and other ingredients to create a thick, savoury stew. One writer claimed that the stew wasn’t finished until it was so thick that an oar could stand upright in the cauldron.

In 1988, the Virginia General Assembly declared that Brunswick County was the home of the eponymous dish.

Georgia's Brunswick Stew Claims

Georgia's claims to the invention of Brunswick stew are based on a monument in the state that commemorates the dish's purported origins. In Mary Ross Waterfront Park in downtown Brunswick, Georgia, there is a 25-gallon black iron pot affixed to a stone base. The pot is inscribed with a plaque that reads, "In this pot, the first Brunswick Stew was made on St. Simon Isle July 2, 1898."

However, there is more than one such pot in Georgia. There is a second iron pot at the southbound rest area on I-95, just before Brunswick. This pot's plaque reads, "The first Brunswick stew was made here in the Brunswick - Golden Isles area in early colonial days. It remains an American favorite."

The existence of two pots with differing origin stories has led some to question the credibility of Georgia's claims. In addition, there are no written records of Brunswick stew being cooked in Georgia prior to the Civil War, while there are several accounts of the dish being prepared in Virginia during that period.

Nevertheless, Georgia has embraced Brunswick stew as a beloved culinary tradition. The state's version of the dish typically includes pulled pork and spicier seasonings. It is commonly served in barbecue joints and restaurants throughout Georgia, and is often associated with community events, fundraisers, and family reunions.

While the exact origin of Brunswick stew remains disputed, with both Georgia and Virginia staking their claims, the rivalry between the two states has led to some light-hearted competition and "stew wars."

The Great Battle of Brunswick

The year was 1988. Virginians and Georgians were about to face off in a battle like no other – a battle that would determine the true origin of the beloved Brunswick Stew. Both sides had their claims and were ready to fight for culinary glory.

The Virginians' Claim

In Virginia, the people of Brunswick County proudly traced the roots of the stew to 1828. Folklore described how stew masters would toss wild game, lima beans, corn, and other ingredients into a giant pot, creating a thick and savoury stew. It was said that the stew was not considered ready until it was so thick that an oar could stand upright in the cauldron.

Adding weight to their claim, the Virginia General Assembly declared in 1988 that Brunswick County was the rightful home of the eponymous dish. They pointed to the story of Jimmy Matthews, an enslaved African American hunting camp cook, who, according to local tradition, created a squirrel stew for his enslaver, Creed Haskins, in 1828. The stew was named after its home county.

The Georgians' Claim

Not to be outdone, the people of Brunswick, Georgia, had their own argument for the stew's origin. They dated their claim back to July 2, 1898, and even installed a monument to prove it: a twenty-five-gallon iron pot with the date inscribed upon it. They asserted that this very pot was used to create the first Brunswick Stew.

The Battle Intensifies

The debate between the two states escalated when Brunswick's mayor and the organiser of the Main Street Jubilee challenged the administrator of Brunswick County, Virginia, to enter a stew-making competition. The Virginians declined, citing health concerns and lack of preparation time. However, they responded with a measure affirming Virginia's Brunswick County as the place of origin and requesting the Virginia General Assembly to back their claim.

The mayor of Brunswick, Georgia, Paul Warwick, was not going to back down. He declared the Virginians' response to be "fighting words". The Glynn County Commission supported him by approving a resolution declaring Brunswick, Georgia, as the true place of origin. A series of newspaper exchanges and stew-making events further fuelled the rivalry.

A Peace Offering

Despite the intense competition, the battle ended amicably. In September 1988, a delegation of Georgia cooks was invited to Virginia to compete in the Brunswick County Heritage Festival and Brunswick Stew Cookoff. The Georgians were warmly received, although the trophy ultimately went to a Virginia team. The Virginians then returned the favour, travelling to Georgia to compete in the stew cook-off at the Main Street Jubilee, where the Georgia team emerged victorious.

A Legacy of Deliciousness

While the exact origin of Brunswick Stew may forever be disputed, one thing is certain: it has become a beloved dish across the United States, with various regions putting their own unique twists on the recipe. Whether it's the spicy Georgia version or the thicker Virginian counterpart, Brunswick Stew continues to bring people together and strengthen community bonds.

The Virginia General Assembly's proclamation

Brunswick stew is a tomato-based stew that typically includes local beans, vegetables, and meat. The exact origin of the dish is disputed, with both the state of Georgia and Virginia claiming it as their own. However, in 1988, the Virginia General Assembly proclaimed that Brunswick County, Virginia, was the birthplace of this eponymous dish. This proclamation was based on folklore that traces the roots of the stew to 1828 when cooks would throw wild game, lima beans, corn, and other ingredients into a large pot to create a thick, savoury stew.

According to the folklore, the stew was not considered ready until it was so thick that an oar could stand upright in the cauldron. This method of preparation is said to have been used by hunters, including a noted hunter and cook named James (or Jimmy) Matthews from the Red Oak neighbourhood in Brunswick County, Virginia. Matthews, an enslaved African American, is said to have created the stew for his master, Dr Creed Hoskins (or Haskins).

In conclusion, the Virginia General Assembly's proclamation declaring Brunswick County, Virginia, as the birthplace of Brunswick stew is based on historical folklore, written records, and the expertise of historians. While the exact origin of the dish may never be known with absolute certainty, the evidence presented by the Virginia General Assembly supports their claim and reinforces the rich culinary history of the region.

The Georgia humourist's view

The Georgia Humourists View

The state of Georgia has a strong claim to Brunswick stew, and its people will tell you so with a smile on their face and a twinkle in their eye. They'll point you to the plaque on a 25-gallon iron pot in Brunswick, Georgia, which declares that the first Brunswick stew was cooked in it on July 2, 1898, on nearby St. Simons Island.

But, as the Georgia humourist Roy Blount Jr. quipped, "Brunswick stew is what happens when small mammals carrying ears of corn fall into barbeque pits". In other words, the idea that this particular pot is the origin of the stew is perhaps a tongue-in-cheek one.

Nevertheless, the people of Georgia have taken to the dish with great enthusiasm. It's a staple at fund-raisers, political rallies, and family reunions. And, in an age of individualism, the preparation and consumption of Brunswick stew as a social activity is now more important than ever in supporting community cohesion.

The Georgians' claim to the stew is not without its supporters. One theory suggests that the recipe actually originated with Indigenous Americans, who would make a tomato-based stew using seasonal ingredients, including squirrel, groundhog meat, and crops such as lima beans, corn, and squash. This would have been popular with the colonists, who used what they had to create large quantities of the dish.

So, while the exact origin of Brunswick stew may be disputed, the people of Georgia will happily share their version of the dish, packed with some spicier seasonings and pulled pork, with anyone who cares to try it.

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