Ruqayyah Snyder
Austria in the 1930s was a turbulent time for the country, which was still reeling from the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire after World War I. The decade saw the rise of Nazi Germany and its threat to annex Austria, which eventually occurred in 1938. Despite the political turmoil, Austrian culture thrived, with Vienna remaining a hub for music, art, and literature. In terms of fashion, the 1930s saw the influence of Austrian Tyrol and Alpine styles, with Tyrolean hats, ski clothes, and embroidery briefly popular before World War II. The dirndl skirt, inspired by the Austrian Alps, also became an international fashion trend, popularized by stage and screen. Viennese tailoring for men also had a distinct style, with wide sleeves that tapered towards the cuff and double-breasted waistcoats.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Political forces | Christian Social Party and the Social Democratic Workers’ Party |
| Paramilitary groups | Heimwehr and Republikanischer Schutzbund |
| Chancellor | Kurt Schuschnigg |
| Fashion | Wide sleeves at the top and tapered towards the cuff, double-breasted contrasting waistcoats, wide trousers, embroidered smocks, dirndl skirts, Tyrolean hats, ski clothes |
| Language | German, Hungarian, Czech, Polish, Italian |
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What You'll Learn
'Tyrolean' hats, ski clothes, and embroidery
The 1930s in Austria were marked by political turmoil and economic instability. However, Austrian culture continued to thrive, with Vienna remaining a centre for music, art, and literature. One aspect of Austrian culture that has long been associated with the country is its traditional clothing, including Tyrolean hats, ski clothes, and embroidery.
Tyrolean Hats
The Tyrolean hat, also known as the Tirolerhut in German and cappello alpino in Italian, originated from the Tyrol region in the Alps, encompassing parts of modern-day Austria, Germany, Italy, and Switzerland. It is an integral part of the local folk costume, known as "tracht". The traditional Tyrolean hat is crafted from green felt, featuring a crown that tapers to a point and a brim approximately the width of a hand. These hats are often adorned with a coloured, corded hatband and a decorative spray of flowers, feathers, or a "brush" made from chamois antelope hair, known as a gamsbart. The style of the hat varies across the region, with North Tyrol favouring tall, narrow-brimmed hats with a dent on top, while the wine country of South Tyrol is known for its small, wide-brimmed hats.
The Tyrolean hat gained prominence beyond Austria thanks to Edward VIII of Great Britain, who frequently wore this style of hat during his stays in Austrian Styria after his abdication. The hat also became a symbol of "Tyrolean culture" in tourism, often seen at folk gatherings, beer festivals, and embraced by folk music bands.
Ski Clothes
Skiing as a sport emerged in Northern Europe in the late 1800s, but it wasn't until the 1920s that it gained widespread popularity. In the early days of women's ski fashion, women wore divided skirts or knickers under tunics or skirts. However, by the late 1920s, women started adopting trousers, tucking them into their boots and pairing them with long matching jackets.
In the 1930s, women's ski clothing struck a balance between fashion and functionality. The introduction of lastex in the mid-1930s led to the addition of stretchy knit bands at the bottoms of trouser legs and sleeve cuffs. The ski skirt also made an appearance during this time, though it was considered a badge of expertise. Colours during this period tended towards darker shades of brown, grey, and dark blue, accented with bright yellows, oranges, and reds.
Embroidery
Embroidery has long been a form of decorative needlework used to embellish and personalise clothing and accessories. While specific trends in embroidery styles during the 1930s in Austria may be challenging to pinpoint, embroidery was certainly used in fashion during this decade, adding intricate details to clothing and accessories.
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'Peasant' chic
Austrian fashion in the 1930s was influenced by the British, Italians, French, and Spanish. However, the interpretation of these styles by Austrians was not always aligned with the styles worn by these other nationalities. For example, in 1938, men's clothing was characterised by long coats with a slightly lower buttoning point and debonair, pointy lapels. Trousers were still cut wide enough, which was pretty wide compared to modern trends.
During this time, "Peasant Chic" was also popular in Austria. This style included items such as embroidered smocks, "Swedish" embroidered headscarves, "Carnaval" aprons worn over peasant-style blouses, and "Tyrolean" knitting bags. These items were often decorated with wool or yarn embroidery. "Tyrolean" hats, ski clothes, and embroidery were also briefly popular in the late 1930s, until World War II caused a shift in fashion preferences away from anything German or Austrian for U.S. consumers.
The "Peasant Chic" style was not limited to Austria and could also be found in other countries. For example, in the 1940s and 1950s, peasant blouses and skirts were popular in the United States, and Mexican-influenced embroidered jackets and "Russian" blouses were also in fashion.
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Men's suits and coats
Men's fashion in the 1930s was heavily influenced by the film industry and sports, with a shift towards more casual attire and a decline in formalwear. This was also a time of economic turmoil, which contributed to a move towards more practical and affordable clothing. Suits became simpler in design, with a focus on durability and functionality.
In Austria, men's suits and coats in the 1930s were influenced by British fashion, although the interpretation was more subtle than the American cuts at the time. The lounge suit, for example, was extremely popular and had a slightly lower buttoning point than its British counterpart, with a lower button stance overall. The buttoning point was closer to the natural waist, often meaning that the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket was in line with the top line of the pockets. The jackets were slightly shorter in the back and featured wider lapels, giving them a debonair and pointy look without a lot of belly. The overall cut of the suit was fuller, with excess material over the shoulder blades and a certain amount of waist suppression. The trousers were wider at the bottom and were worn creased and cuffed, with a preference for wider leg pants among younger men. Double-breasted suits were also popular, and it was common to mix and match jackets and trousers.
The colours of suits were typically darker shades of blue, brown, or grey for cooler weather, with lighter tones for warmer weather. Bold patterns were also popular, including stripes, checks, plaids, and windowpane patterns. Suits were usually made of wool or tweed, although the sharkskin weave also gained popularity during this time. Single-breasted jackets typically had two or three buttons, with the two-button variety typically buttoned on the top. Three-button jackets were buttoned in the middle. Six-button double-breasted jackets were also common, with wide peaked lapels.
While vests and waistcoats were no longer considered mandatory, they remained a cornerstone of formal menswear and were often worn as part of a three-piece suit for a sophisticated and elegant look. The tips of the waistcoat became longer, and decorative buttons and buttonholes that were never meant to be buttoned added further flair.
Outerwear also saw some popular trends in the 1930s. Trench coats, originally designed for military use, became a huge trend for men, offering a structured silhouette and a polished look. Pea coats, short double-breasted coats with wide lapels and a boxy shape, were also popular, offering warmth and durability. The bomber jacket, with its waist-length design and timeless style, began to make its way into men's wardrobes, and continues to be popular today.
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Dirndl skirts
The dirndl is a feminine dress that originated in German-speaking Alpine regions and is considered the traditional dress for women and girls in these areas. It consists of a close-fitting bodice with a deep neckline, a blouse, a wide high-waisted skirt, and an apron. Before the 1930s, the skirt was separate from the bodice, but since then, the two have been sewn together. The skirt is full, with folds gathered at the waist. The dirndl is regarded as a folk costume, and its development as the clothing of Alpine peasants between the 16th and 18th centuries.
In the late 19th century, the dirndl was adapted by the upper and middle classes, and its popularity spread beyond its area of origin. This trend was further fuelled in 1930 when the Wallach brothers supplied the stage costumes for the operetta "The White Horse Inn," which presented a romanticised image of the Austrian Alps. The lead character, an innkeeper, wore a dirndl, and the fashion soon became an international phenomenon. The trend was also promoted by the Trapp Family Singers, who wore dirndls during their performances, and by the 1937 film "Heidi," starring Shirley Temple.
The 1930s saw a general shift towards a silhouette that matched folk costumes, with full skirts, higher hemlines, broader shoulders, and tailored waists. This trend, combined with the influence of "The White Horse Inn," led to the widespread adoption of the dirndl style. The dirndl's association with the idyllic image of the Austrian Alps presented in the operetta may have contributed to its popularity as a fashion choice.
While the dirndl has evolved over time, with modern designs featuring different materials, skirt lengths, and colour compositions, it remains a distinctive and recognisable style, particularly associated with German-speaking Alpine regions.
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German language and culture
The 1930s in Austria was a period of political turmoil and economic hardship. The country was still reeling from the aftermath of World War I, which had left it much smaller and less powerful. The Great Depression hit the country hard, causing widespread unemployment and poverty. This instability fuelled political unrest, with the two main opposing political forces being the Christian Social Party and the Social Democratic Workers' Party. The rise of Nazi Germany posed a significant external threat, as Adolf Hitler, who was born in Austria, sought to annex the country to Germany, an idea known as 'Anschluss' that was supported by some Austrians. Despite these challenges, Austrian culture persevered, with Vienna remaining a hub for music, art, and literature.
During this decade, German was the official language of Austria and the primary language of education, administration, and the media. However, the country's linguistic landscape was complex, reflecting its diverse cultural heritage and historical context. While German was widely spoken, particularly in urban areas, Austria was also home to speakers of other languages, including Hungarian, Czech, and Polish, especially in the southern and western regions. The influence of neighbouring languages and dialects was more noticeable in these regions, giving rise to regional variations of German. Additionally, due to its proximity to Italy, a small Italian-speaking community also existed in Austria.
The 1930s Austrian fashion scene was influenced by its tailoring traditions and folk costumes. The natural silhouette characterised by slightly padded or unpadded shoulders, a subtle drape over the chest, lower gorge, notched lapels, and a closing button near the natural waistline was prevalent in Viennese tailoring. In terms of men's fashion, the lounge suit was in vogue, with longer coats that were slightly lower-buttoned, and debonair, pointy lapels. Trousers were still cut "wide enough", a contrast to the more narrow modern trends.
Austrian folk costumes, or "dirndl", gained international attention in the 1930s. The operetta "The White Horse Inn" featured stage costumes that presented an idyllic image of the Austrian Alps, contributing to the popularity of the dirndl, which was also promoted by the Trapp Family Singers and the film "Heidi" starring Shirley Temple. The dirndl typically included an apron, deep décolletage, full skirts, higher hemlines, broader shoulders, and tailored waists. "Tyrolean" hats, ski clothes, and embroidery were also briefly popular in the late 1930s until World War II made anything German or Austrian less desirable for U.S. consumers.
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Frequently asked questions
In the 1930s, the dirndl became an international fashion phenomenon, inspired by the operetta *The White Horse Inn* and popularized by the Trapp Family Singers and Shirley Temple in the film *Heidi*. The dirndl was usually worn with an apron and deep décolletage, and often featured Alpine embroidery. In addition, "Tyrolean" hats, ski clothes, and embroidery were briefly popular in the late 1930s. In terms of men's fashion, the lounge suit was in style, with longer coats and slightly lower buttoning points. Trousers were still cut "wide enough", and double-breasted, contrasting waistcoats were paired with suits.
Austria faced a turbulent decade in the 1930s, struggling with the after-effects of World War I and the Great Depression. The country was deeply divided between the Christian Social Party and the Social Democratic Workers' Party, with supporters of each party often clashing. In July 1934, Dollfuss was assassinated by Austrian Nazis in a failed coup attempt, and Kurt Schuschnigg took over as Chancellor. He continued Austria's authoritarian policies and tried to maintain the country's independence from Nazi Germany, but ultimately, Germany annexed Austria in March 1938.
German was the official language of Austria in the 1930s and was the primary means of communication for the majority of the population, particularly in urban areas. However, Austria was also home to speakers of other languages, including Hungarian, Czech, and Polish, especially in the southern and western regions. The country's linguistic diversity was an essential aspect of its cultural identity.
