Exploring Sheki, Azerbaijan: A Cultural Journey

Sheki, a small city in Azerbaijan, is a must-see destination. Located in the shadow of the Greater Caucasus mountains, Sheki is known for its rich history, stunning architecture, and mouth-watering cuisine. Here are some highlights of what to see and do in this charming city:

1. Palace of Shaki Khans: This 18th-century palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a true masterpiece. Admire the blend of Azerbaijani, Persian, and Ottoman styles, including exquisite wooden and stained-glass windows, painted ceilings, and a roof resembling a Persian carpet.

2. Kish Temple: Located in the mesmerizing region of Shaki, this 12th-century temple showcases the rich cultural heritage of the Caucasus. Surrounded by lush landscapes and majestic mountains, Kish Temple offers a serene escape.

3. Sheki Karvansaray: Step back in time and imagine yourself on the ancient Silk Road at Sheki Karvansaray, a restored stone caravanserai where merchants once rested.

4. Sheki Fortress: Explore the defensive complex that includes military barracks, the Palace of the Sheki Khan, museums, and the Nukha Three Saints Church, offering a glimpse into the city's rich history.

5. Sheki Museum of Folk and Applied Arts: Housed in a former church, this museum displays traditional crafts such as Shebeke mosaics and Tekelduz embroidery, along with musical instruments, jewellery, and samovars.

6. Juma Mosque: One of the oldest surviving mosques in Sheki, the 18th-century Juma Mosque welcomes visitors of all faiths to admire its simple yet beautiful interior.

7. Sheki's Old Town: Wander through the crisscrossing streets of Sheki's Old Town, where you'll find red-brick houses, a mix of Persian and Russian architectural influences, and a blend of cultural and religious sites.

8. Local Cuisine: Sheki is a foodie's paradise, known for its unique delicacies. Try the famous Sheki Halva, a sweet treat made with nuts, butter, sugar, and spices. Also, sample the local specialty, Piti, a mutton stew cooked in a traditional clay pot.

9. Albanian Church in Kish: A short distance from Sheki, the Albanian Church in Kish dates back to the 12th or 13th century and offers insights into the history of the Caucasian Albanians, an ancient civilization with no relation to modern-day Albania.

10. Nature and Hiking: Surrounded by rolling hills and lush forests, Sheki is ideal for nature lovers. Hike to the Galarsan-Gorarsan Fortress or the Qurucana Waterfalls, and enjoy the breathtaking scenery of the Caucasus mountains.

With its mix of culture, history, and natural beauty, Sheki is a destination that should not be missed when exploring Azerbaijan.

Explore the Sheki Khan Palaces

The Sheki Khan's Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a stunning architectural masterpiece from the 18th century. It is located in the northeast of the city and is a 30-metre-long, two-storey building with six rooms, four corridors, and two mirrored balconies. The palace is unique for its 5,000 wooden and glass-detailed windows, called 'Shebeke', and its picturesque wall and ceiling paintings. The Shebeke is a traditional stained glass window technique where local craftsmen assemble the gratings from standard wooden components and multicoloured glass, without using any glue or nails.

The palace's interior is just as fascinating as its exterior. Each room is distinctively decorated with intricate paintings of mythical birds in a garden of paradise, unusual flowers, and animals. The first room is a receiving room with a small fountain, which the shah could turn on to keep his conversations with his advisors private. The second room is a spare study, with plain walls and niches in the walls for holding books, documents, and candles. The third room is the women's room, which is richly and delicately adorned with paintings of flowers and birds. The fourth room is a large meeting room with numerous paintings of flowers and birds, and a strip around the middle showing various wars that Sheki could have fought. The final room is a private study with paintings on the walls and ceiling meant to remind the shah of the principles of running his khanate.

The palace is surrounded by a walled defensive complex, which includes half a dozen military barracks added by the Russians in 1895, the Sheki State Art Gallery, the Sheki History and Ethnography Museum, a handicraft market called the Craftsmen's House, and the Nukha Three Saints Church.

Visit the Sheki Fortress

The Sheki Fortress, located in the centre of Sheki, was the citadel of the independent Sheki Khanate, which was absorbed by the Russian Empire in the 19th century. The fortress was built during the reign of Sheki Khan Haki Celebi (1743-1755) and features northern and southern gates, as well as numerous defensive bastions. The walls of the fortress are 1,300 metres long and 2.2 metres thick and consist of about 40 buildings.

Within the fortress walls, you can find the UNESCO-listed Khan's Palace, which was built in 1797 by Muhammed Hasan Khan to house the rulers of Sheki. The palace is a stunning architectural masterpiece that showcases a blend of Azerbaijani, Persian, and Ottoman styles. It features exquisite wooden and stained-glass windows, captivating painted ceilings, and a roof resembling a Persian carpet. The Shebeke Room is a highlight of the palace, with its intricate wooden window frames and detailed stained-glass windows.

In addition to the palace, the fortress once included a winter palace, residences for the khan's family, and servant's quarters. The fortress grounds also offer views of the surrounding landscape from the castle walls and include a cafe and shops selling local crafts.

The Sheki Fortress is a testament to the rich history and culture of the region and is a must-visit destination when exploring the city of Sheki.

Discover the historic Old Town

Sheki's Old Town is a delightful blend of Persian and Russian influences, with red-brick buildings and Ladas parked outside. The Old Town is a great place to wander and get lost in the crisscrossing streets.

Sheki Khan's Palace

The Sheki Khan's Palace is a must-see in Azerbaijan. It is a stunning architectural masterpiece from the 18th century, showcasing a blend of Azerbaijani, Persian, and Ottoman styles. The palace features exquisite wooden and stained-glass windows, painted ceilings, and a roof resembling a Persian carpet. The Shebeke Room is a highlight, with intricate wooden window frames and detailed stained-glass work.

Sheki Khan's Winter Palace

The Winter Palace, located in the Old Town, is a hidden gem. It is a more modest residence but features beautiful wall paintings, carved wooden doors, and examples of Shebeke glasswork. This palace is a great alternative if you want to avoid the crowds and take photographs, as it is often quieter and photography is permitted inside.

Sheki Fortress

The Sheki Fortress, a walled defensive complex, houses several interesting buildings, including the Summer Palace, a Russian Orthodox church, a museum, and the castle walls. The fortress offers a glimpse into the city's rich history and is a great place to explore.

Juma Mosque

The 18th-century Juma Mosque is one of the oldest surviving mosques in Sheki. It features a tall minaret and a simple yet beautiful interior. Visitors are welcome to enter and explore, but remember to dress modestly and cover your head if you are a woman.

Sheki Karvansaray

The Sheki Karvansaray, a Silk Road-era inn, is a must-visit. This large courtyard building once accommodated merchants and their camels travelling along the Silk Road. Today, it functions as a hotel, offering a unique experience and a glimpse into the past.

Local Crafts and Souvenirs

Sheki is renowned for its arts and crafts, particularly silk and ceramics. The Old Town has several shops selling handmade crafts, including Sheki silk scarves, and local memorabilia. It is the perfect place to find unique souvenirs and support local artisans.

Try the local cuisine

Sheki's local cuisine is heavily influenced by its history as a trading centre on the Silk Road. The city's food is rich and varied, with many local delicacies that are hard to find elsewhere.

One of the most famous dishes in Sheki is piti, a traditional Azerbaijani stew made with lamb, chickpeas, chestnuts, vegetables, and various spices. Piti is often served in a clay pot with bread on the side, and there is a special way of eating it. First, you pour the liquid from the pot over a piece of bread, then you mash the rest of the stew and eat it with another piece of bread.

Another local specialty is sudlu ash, the local version of Azerbaijan's national dish, plov. Sudlu ash is flavoured with apricots and served with a thin egg omelette and lula kebab on the side.

Sheki is also known for its halva, a sweet treat made by layering nuts with thin pastry. Sheki halva is usually made with crushed walnuts or hazelnuts, flavoured with secret spices, and covered in honey or sugar. It is said that the recipe was first created for the Sheki Khan.

In addition to these dishes, Sheki offers a variety of grilled meats such as Azeri kebabs, shish tawook, and lamb chops, as well as soups and salads. The city also has a rich tea culture, and visitors can enjoy a cup of traditional Azerbaijani tea in one of the local teahouses.

When it comes to restaurants, there are several options in Sheki that serve local cuisine. Here are some recommendations:

• Chalabi Khan: This restaurant offers a variety of Azeri dishes with influences from Persian, Central Asian, and Georgian cuisine. The menu includes Sheki piti and halva, and the portions are generous.
• Serin: One of the cheapest restaurants in Sheki, serving delicious kebabs and piti in a central location.
• Qaqarin: Named after the Russian cosmonaut Gagarin, this restaurant has a convenient location and a nice outdoor terrace. The food is good, but the service can be slow.
• Beyzade Restaurant: Beyzade offers a unique dining experience with a combination of modern and traditional elements. They serve dishes such as piti soup, "qutb" (meatballs stuffed with meat and spinach), and soudley plov (rice cooked with milk). The restaurant also stands out for its exceptional interior decoration, featuring Azerbaijani embroidery and old brick walls.
• VIP Karvan Restaurant: This restaurant blends modern and traditional styles, offering both elegant and cosy settings. The menu features a variety of grilled dishes, including Azeri kebabs, shish tawook, and meat chops, as well as traditional soups and salads.
• Genclik Restaurant: Located in the centre of Sheki, this restaurant serves a variety of local dishes and unique Turkish specialities. Their menu includes grilled dishes like Azeri kebab, lamb chops, spiced kofta, and bozbash. They also offer Turkish-style dough meat with tomato sauce and pomegranate molasses.
• Qurcana Restaurant: Qurcana is a popular spot for locals and tourists alike, known for its traditional atmosphere and delicious dishes. Their menu includes various grilled meats, such as lamb chops, shish tawook, and kofta, as well as stuffed pastries and refreshing salads. Don't forget to try their baklava stuffed with nuts and a cup of hot tea.
• Sultan House Restaurant: This restaurant serves a variety of Turkish and Azerbaijani dishes, including dolma (grape leaves stuffed with vegetables and rice), grilled dishes, pilaf (rice with seasoned meat), and various types of soups and salads. The outdoor seating area is designed in a simple traditional style, with wooden seats and classic patterns.

Wander through the Caravanserai

Sheki's Upper Caravanserai is a historic trader's inn that dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries. The stone and brick building is located on the main street of Sheki, with its entrance marked by wooden doors. The interior courtyard features a fountain, and the hotel reception is located to the left. The Upper Caravanserai is part of Sheki's UNESCO World Heritage-listed Historic Centre.

The Karvansaray Hotel has 14 refurbished guest rooms, a traditional tea house, and a restaurant. The rooms are modest but comfortable, with impressive domed brick ceilings, and each opens out to a central balcony overlooking the courtyard. The hotel also offers a unique dining experience in the restaurant's hidden garden, accessed through arches on the side of the building.

The Upper Caravanserai is perfectly positioned for exploring Sheki on foot. The Khan's Palace and castle complex are within walking distance, and the charming backstreets of Sheki, with their old silk factory, ancient minarets, and vernacular architecture, are just a short walk away.

The hotel is also a great base for shopping. Boutique shops and antique emporiums line the main street, and the Upper Caravanserai itself has a row of shops nestled in its arched underbelly. Here, you can find traditional silk scarves, clay piti pots, and other unique souvenirs.

A stay at the Karvansaray Hotel offers a chance to walk through history and experience the magic of the Silk Road.

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