Exploring Brunei: A Comprehensive Travel Guide

Brunei is a small country in Southeast Asia, located on the island of Borneo. It is one of the world's richest countries, with vast reserves of oil and gas, and is ruled by Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, making it an independent Islamic sultanate.

The country is known for its low crime rate, beautiful spots, and unique charm, but it is often considered boring by many travellers. However, there are plenty of things to do and see in Brunei, especially in its capital, Bandar Seri Begawan.

Some notable attractions in Bandar Seri Begawan include the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the Royal Regalia Museum, the Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, and the Kampong Ayer water village. Visitors can also enjoy the local cuisine at the Gadong Night Market and explore the Ulu Temburong National Park, which is home to a diverse range of wildlife and nature.

Brunei has two seasons: dry and wet. The best time to visit is during the dry season, from January to May, as the peak tourist season from June to August can be too hot.

So, if you're looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination with a mix of history, culture, nature, and unique experiences, consider adding Brunei to your travel list!

Brunei's mosques and museums

Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque:

This mosque, built in 1958, is named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei and is located in the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan. It features a stunning marble exterior, a main dome covered in pure gold, and sparkling domes blanketed in gold leaf. The mosque symbolises the Islamic faith of the people of Brunei and is considered one of the most magnificent mosques in Southeast Asia. The nearby lagoon houses a replica of a 16th-century Mahligai barge used for religious ceremonies. Visitors are welcome outside of prayer hours, and it's free to enter.

Royal Regalia Museum:

This museum showcases the splendour of the Sultanate's heirlooms and regalia. Located in downtown Bandar Seri Begawan, it exhibits golden chariots, ancient weapons and shields, and ornate mementos. It also covers the life of the current Sultan, from birth to coronation. Entry is free, and it's open Sunday to Thursday from 9 am to 5 pm, Friday from 9 am to 11:30 am and 2:30 pm to 5 pm, and Saturday from 9:45 am to 5 pm.

Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque:

Brunei's largest mosque, located in Bandar Seri Begawan, boasts 29 golden domes and beautifully landscaped gardens. It was built to commemorate the 25th year of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah's reign. Non-Muslims can enter outside prayer times, and there is no entry fee. Opening hours are Monday to Wednesday and Saturday from 8 am to 12 pm, 2 pm to 3 pm, and 5 pm to 6 pm, and Sunday from 10:45 am to 12 pm, 2 pm to 3 pm, and 5 pm to 6 pm. It's closed on Thursdays and Fridays.

Kampong Ayer:

Known as the "largest water village in the world," Kampong Ayer is a unique community on water, spanning 10 square kilometres and housing an estimated 20,000 people. It comprises 42 villages with schools, shops, mosques, and even a police station, all built on stilts. A boat ride through Kampong Ayer will take you past floating landmarks like the fire station, mosque, and school. You can also explore the Kampong Ayer Museum to learn more about its history.

Brunei Museum:

The Brunei Museum, established in 1965, showcases the country's history and culture. It is located in Bandar Seri Begawan and offers insights into the natural and human history of Brunei. The museum is open daily, and admission is free. However, some reviews mention that it has been closed for renovations in recent years. It's best to check their website or contact them directly for the most up-to-date information.

Malay Technology Museum:

Located in Bandar Seri Begawan, this museum showcases the technological advancements and innovations of Brunei's Malay community. It provides insight into the traditional knowledge and skills of the Malay people. The entry fee and opening hours are unknown, but it is accessible by bus from the city centre.

Brunei Darussalam Maritime Museum:

This museum, also located in Bandar Seri Begawan, focuses on the country's maritime history and culture. It is one of three museums in the Kota Batu area, along with the Brunei Museum and the Brunei Technology Museum. Unfortunately, there is limited information available online about this museum's exhibits, opening hours, or entry fees.

The water village, Kampong Ayer

Explore the Village by Foot or Boat

Kampong Ayer is easily accessible and offers a fascinating glimpse into traditional Bruneian life. You can choose to explore the village by foot, strolling along the wooden and concrete platforms that connect the stilt houses. This option provides a peaceful and budget-friendly way to discover the village at your own pace. Alternatively, you can opt for a boat ride, which offers a different perspective of the village. Boat rides are available for a small fee, and you can choose between a short ride to cross the river or a longer tour of the village.

Immerse Yourself in the Local Culture

Kampong Ayer is more than just a collection of stilt houses; it is a fully functional community. The village has its own schools, shops, mosques, restaurants, police stations, and even a floating fire station! As you wander through the village, take time to interact with the locals, observe their daily routines, and learn about their way of life. The village also offers a variety of dining options, from small local restaurants to floating eateries, where you can savour delicious Bruneian cuisine.

Discover the Historical Significance

Kampong Ayer holds a significant place in Brunei's history. Once known as the "Venice of the East," it served as the de facto capital of Brunei for centuries and was a major administrative and trading centre during the Bruneian Empire. The village is believed to have been inhabited for over 1,300 years, with foreign sources documenting the existence of "water settlements" on the Brunei River as early as the 16th century. Today, it is recognised as a national heritage site, and efforts are being made to preserve this unique lifestyle.

Capture Stunning Photographs

The village provides a plethora of photographic opportunities. The boardwalk connecting the houses offers a diverse range of backdrops, from well-to-do homes to more modest dwellings. You can also capture the local boats zipping through the waterways, the intricate architecture of the stilt houses, and the vibrant community life within the village. Don't forget to snap a picture of the Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Hajah Saleha Bridge, which provides a picturesque backdrop to the village.

Experience the Local Way of Life

When visiting Kampong Ayer, you may be surprised by the level of modernity within the village. The houses are equipped with electricity, clean water, internet access, and other modern amenities. However, the village also faces challenges, such as fire hazards due to the wooden construction of many buildings. The Bruneian government and non-government organisations are working together to address issues like waste management and sewage disposal, ensuring that Kampong Ayer remains a safe and thriving community.

Respect Local Customs and Dress Codes

When visiting Kampong Ayer, it is important to be mindful of local customs and dress codes, especially when entering places of worship like mosques. For men, it is advisable to wear long trousers or pants, while women should cover their hair and arms, opting for ankle-length skirts or pants. Additionally, be respectful of the local culture and avoid wearing revealing clothing during your visit.

Brunei's nature and wildlife

Temburong, in particular, is known for its rich ecosystem. Its forests contain an estimated 15,000 species of vascular plants and 2,000 species of trees. Some of the native species you might spot include proboscis monkeys, Bornean sun bears, Bornean horned frogs, green crested lizards, and Bornean slow lorises.

Brunei's rainforests also boast a multitude of unique flora, with their vibrant colours and beauty. The country's commitment to conservation is evident, with 41% of its land area protected by law. This makes it an ideal destination for nature enthusiasts and those seeking to explore the natural wonders of Borneo.

In addition to its rich wildlife, Brunei offers a range of natural attractions. The Ulu Temburong National Park, with its lush rainforests and diverse wildlife, is a must-visit. Other notable spots include the Luagan Lalak Forest Recreation Park and the Kampong Ayer water village, where you can experience life on stilts above the river.

For those seeking a more relaxed nature experience, the Empire Hotel and Country Club offer a luxurious stay with a beautiful beach and lagoon. Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital, also has a charming waterfront and park where you can enjoy the sunset and take in the views.

Local food and markets

Brunei's local food and markets offer a diverse range of tasty street food and snacks, with a buzzing night market scene.

Street Food

Brunei's legendary night market in Gadong offers dishes for as little as BND1. The market is filled with smoke from grilling meat skewers, and rice dishes topped with sambal. The market is busy and hazy, but a great place to try local favourites.

For breakfast, head to the Kianggeh River, where the Tamu Kianggeh market offers fresh ingredients and homemade delights. You can also catch a live cultural performance of the gulingtangan (traditional brass musical instruments).

The Pasarneka Tutong market is another great option, with its variety of handicrafts, produce, and local street food. Try the salai (smoked and grilled) food area, with tongkeng ayam (grilled chicken tail), grilled lamb, and daging lalap salai (smoky grilled beef jerky).

Local Dishes

Brunei's national dish is ambuyat, a flavourless sago that is usually dipped in a sauce called cacah. It is served with ikan goreng (fried fish), pakis or biring (vegetables), hati buyah (cow's lungs), beef rendang (slow-cooked beef stew), and other mains. It is eaten with a special utensil called candas, made from bamboo.

Another local favourite is nasi katok, which translates to 'rice knock'. The name comes from people knocking on vendors' doors to place their orders. It is a cheap meal, costing only BND1-1.50, and consists of rice, a piece of fried chicken, and sambal (dip).

Ayam penyet is another affordable and delicious option, inspired by Indonesian cuisine. It includes rice, a chicken leg, and chilli sambal, and usually comes with cucumber or cabbage on the side.

Satay is a common street food, with grilled meat on skewers. Choose from chicken, lamb, beef, or rabbit, and dip it in peanut sauce.

Ketupat is a traditional Malay dish, made from plain rice wrapped in woven coconut or palm leaves. It is usually eaten with rendang as a dip.

For breakfast, try roti, a fluffy bun filled with cheese, meat, and kahwin (a sweet mixture of coconut milk, jam, sugar, and butter).

Local Delicacies

Brunei also has a range of sweet treats, including kueh lenggang, a traditional pandan-coloured crepe filled with grated coconut and sugar.

Kueh pancut are small, round cakes covered in shredded coconut, with a filling of melted palm sugar.

Kueh kusui is a soft cake, similar to kuih kosui in Malaysia, but made with gula anau (a sweetener made from sago or nipah tree sap).

Kueh koci is a glutinous rice dough filled with toasted, shredded coconut and palm sugar.

Seri muka is a two-layered dessert, with a pandan custard top and a glutinous coconut rice base.

Local Markets

The Royal Regalia Museum features a number of objects, including gifts received by the Sultan of Brunei, and equipment used during his coronation and silver jubilee.

The Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque is Brunei's largest mosque, with 29 golden domes. It is surrounded by landscaped gardens and fountains and is floodlit in the evening.

Kampong Ayer, known as the 'largest water village in the world', is a community on water, with an estimated population of 20,000 people. It has schools, shops, mosques, and a police station, all built on stilts.

The Ulu Temburong National Park is an adventure in itself, with a speedboat ride through mangroves to the lodge, followed by a longboat ride to explore the park. The park includes a waterfall with a 'fish spa' and a canopy walk.

The capital, Bandar Seri Begawan

Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital of Brunei, is a small city with a population of about 100,000 people. It is a walkable city, and you can easily get around by bus or boat. Here are some things to do and see in the capital:

Visit the mosques

Bandar Seri Begawan is home to several beautiful mosques, including the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, and the Brunei International Airport Mosque. These mosques feature stunning architecture, with golden domes, minarets, and marble exteriors. The Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is particularly noteworthy, as it is considered one of the most impressive mosques in South-East Asia. It features a mix of materials from around the world, including granite from China, marble from Italy, carpets from Saudi Arabia, timber from the Philippines, and chandeliers from the UK.

Explore the museums

The Royal Regalia Museum is a must-visit attraction in the city centre. It houses an impressive collection of royal regalia, including gilded carriages, jewel-encrusted crowns, thrones, and ceremonial armour. Another museum worth visiting is the Malay Technology Museum, which showcases the history and culture of Brunei. While cameras and phones are not allowed inside the Royal Regalia Museum, you can take photos at the entrance hall, which features a golden chariot.

Stroll through the parks and recreational areas

Bandar Seri Begawan offers several parks and recreational areas where you can enjoy the natural surroundings and spot wildlife. Tasek Lama Recreational Park is a peaceful spot to walk and observe monkeys, water lizards, and various bird species. You can also visit the Bandar Seri Begawan Waterfront and Park, where locals often gather to engage in physical activities or enjoy the sunset.

Experience the local food scene

Gadong Night Market is a great place to sample local Bruneian cuisine. You can find a variety of grilled seafood, meat and vegetable skewers, and fruit juices at affordable prices. Another popular spot for locals and tourists alike is the open-air market, Tamu Kianggeh. Here, you can find fresh produce, including cartons of eggs and piles of vegetables, as well as traditional Bruneian dishes.

Discover the unique neighbourhoods

Kampong Ayer, also known as the "Venice of the East," is a must-visit destination in Bandar Seri Begawan. This water village, built on stilts above the Brunei River, is home to over 30,000 people. You can explore the extensive network of wooden walkways and boardwalks, discovering mosques, shops, restaurants, and even a hospital within this unique community.

Bandar Seri Begawan also has a Chinese presence, as evidenced by the Teng Yun Temple, the only Chinese temple in the city. This small but stand-out temple is located near the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Complex, where you can also get a glimpse of the water village from the upper floor.

Frequently asked questions