Lexi Webster
Austrians are proud of their traditional clothing, known as 'tracht', which is still worn in the countryside and on formal occasions like weddings and receptions. In the city of Salzburg, wearing a dirndl or lederhosen is a mark of style and class, and the city is home to many specialist stores selling traditional clothing. Tracht is also worn at folkloric events, where it is displayed in all its seasonal variations. The process of making traditional Austrian clothing is a blend of art and science, with artisans in Alpine Mills passing down knowledge to the next generation. Boiled wool, for instance, is a fabric used in traditional Austrian clothing that is renowned for its durability, warmth, and elegance.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Name | Tracht |
| Fabric | Boiled wool |
| Fabric Properties | Dense, windproof, waterproof, breathable |
| Fabric Colour | Rich earth tones |
| Fabric Production | Part art, part science |
| Fabric Treatment | Beating with wooden hammers, brushing with teasels, shearing |
| Garment Types | Loden coats, sweaters, Dirndls, Lederhosen |
| Garment Properties | Sleek yet elegant lines, supple yet durable shell |
| Garment Makers | Robert W. Stolz, Lanz Trachten, Tostmann, Sportalm, Geiger, Tanja Pflaum, Constanze Kurz |
| Occasions | Weddings, receptions, festivals, folkloric events, everyday wear |
| Wearers | Rural population, urban population, Emperor Franz Joseph I, Elizabeth Taylor, Queen Elizabeth II of the UK |
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What You'll Learn
'Tracht' is the traditional Austrian clothing
The traditional clothing for women is called a 'Dirndl', which consists of a close-fitting bodice combined with an apron in different colours. The Dirndl can be sleeveless and worn with a cotton and lace blouse, or it can have sleeves and a high neck. For everyday wear, women would wear a plain cotton working dirndl, while on feast days and for church, they would wear a more festive costume made of brocade, silk, or velvet.
The traditional clothing for men is 'Lederhosen', which are knee-length trousers or short pants made from leather, worn with rustic shoes and wool socks.
There are many traditional clothing stores in Austria, such as Lanz Trachten, which has been around since the early 20th century and is a popular choice among locals. The Tostmann company, founded over 60 years ago, is another well-known brand that specialises in Dirndls.
Austrian clothing is also known for its use of boiled wool, which is renowned for its durability, warmth, and elegance. The process of making Loden fabric, which is used in Loden coats and sweaters, has remained largely the same since its inception and is considered part art and part science. The art of creating Loden is passed down from generation to generation, with the knowledge held collectively by the artisans of a handful of Alpine Mills. The dense fabric is nearly impenetrable to wind or water, yet it has a certain loft that traps air to keep the wearer warm while allowing the body to breathe.
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Dirndls are worn by women
In Austria, the word for traditional clothing and fashion is 'tracht'. This style of dress is worn more often in the Austrian countryside than in cities, where it is reserved for special occasions. Women in Austria wear 'Dirndls', which consist of a close-fitting bodice and an apron in different colours. The Dirndl can be sleeveless and worn with a cotton and lace blouse, or it can have sleeves and a high neck. Everyday wear for a woman might be a plain cotton working dirndl, while on feast days and for church, a more festive costume of brocade, silk or velvet would be worn.
Dirndls are still worn by women in Austria for official occasions like weddings, festivals and folkloric events. They are also worn as everyday clothing, and in Salzburg, they are considered a mark of style and class. The production of Dirndls is a thriving branch of the Austrian economy, with brands such as Sportalm, Geiger or Tostmann being favourites. There are many societies in Austria dedicated to 'tracht' revivals, and these efforts often coincide with an interest in traditional crafts.
The fabric and construction of Dirndls are renowned for their durability, warmth and excellence. The boiled wool used in Austrian clothing is dense and nearly impenetrable to wind or water, yet it has loft, which traps air to keep the wearer warm while allowing the body to breathe. The process of making the fabric for Dirndls is part art and part science, and the knowledge needed for producing it is held collectively by artisans of a handful of Alpine Mills. The mineral content of the mountain stream water used to treat the wool, for example, is crucial and makes it impossible to repeat the process anywhere else.
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Men wear lederhosen
Men in Austria wear lederhosen, which are traditional leather breeches or trousers. Lederhosen originated in the Alpine regions during the 18th century or even earlier, inspired by the French culottes. They are worn in Austria, as well as in Southern Germany (particularly in Bavaria and Swabia), South Tyrol, and Slovenia. The term 'lederhosen' translates to 'leather pants' in English.
Lederhosen are worn in various lengths, including short, knee-length, or longer styles that extend below the knees, known as 'Kniebundhosen' or 'bundhosen'. The shorter styles that end above the knees were preferred by workers and hunters for added mobility, especially in the steep slopes of the Eastern Alps. The longer versions of lederhosen that reach the ankles are popular during cold weather or as party wear. They can be styled with suspenders or a belt for an authentic German look.
Lederhosen are typically made from genuine suede or deerskin leather, ensuring durability and a classic traditional look. They come in a range of colours, including brown, black, and yellow, with decorative motifs and intricate embroidery unique to the region. The side seams of lederhosen are either tied or buttoned together, and they are held together by a vertical or horizontal seam.
In modern times, lederhosen are mostly worn as leisurewear or during special occasions and local festivals, such as Oktoberfest. They are often paired with traditional Bavarian shirts, suspenders, knee-high woollen socks, and Haferl shoes. To complete the look, men can add a Bavarian hat and style their hair in a messy bun or slicked-back style.
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Boiled wool is used to make sweaters and Loden coats
Traditional Austrian clothing is known as 'tracht' and is still worn on official occasions like weddings and festivals. One of the most famous exports of Austrian traditional clothing is the 'Lederhosen'. Another famous fabric used in Austrian clothing is boiled wool, which is used to make sweaters and Loden coats.
Boiled wool is a type of fabric made by shrinking woven wool fabric in hot water. The process of making boiled wool involves first knitting wool yarns to create a fabric of uniform thickness. The fabric is then fulled by boiling and agitating it in hot water and an alkaline solution like soap. This process causes the scaly surface of wool fibres to stick together, resulting in a felted fabric that is denser and tighter. Boiled wool is a durable, warm and water-resistant fabric that is ideal for outerwear and winter clothing.
Loden is a type of fabric that is made from boiled wool. The process of making Loden fabric has remained largely unchanged since its inception and is considered part art and part science. The art of creating Loden fabric is passed down from generation to generation by artisans in a handful of Alpine Mills in Austria. The physical environment, such as the mineral content of mountain stream water used to treat the wool, also plays a role in the unique characteristics of Loden fabric.
Loden coats and sweaters are known for their sleek and elegant lines, supple yet durable shell, and rich earth-tone colours. The fabric is tightly woven, making it nearly impenetrable to wind and water, while also allowing the body to breathe. The dense and compact texture of boiled wool makes it an ideal choice for warm and durable clothing.
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Traditional clothing is still sold in stores like Lanz Trachten
Traditional Austrian clothing, known as 'tracht', is still popular in the country and worn on official occasions like weddings and festivals. The production of traditional garments like dirndl and lederhosen is a thriving industry, with brands like Sportalm, Geiger, and Tostmann being favourites. Many societies are dedicated to the revival of 'tracht', often coinciding with an interest in other traditional crafts like porcelain, glass-making, and wood carving.
Stores like Lanz Trachten have played a significant role in keeping the tradition of Austrian clothing alive. The Lanz family has transformed the rustic, rural clothing style of Salzburg into a worldwide classic. By making 'tracht' elegant and suitable for various occasions, Lanz has created a unique style recognised as "lanzy" in English. Their designs are worn by celebrities and royalty, including Elizabeth Taylor, Billy Wilder, Queen Elizabeth II, and Caroline of Monaco.
The Lanz Trachten story began in the 1920s with the vision of making 'tracht' fashionable. Over the years, they have crafted a style that suits almost every event, from casual country outings to formal opera visits. For women, a Lanz dirndl is a stylish choice, while men can stand out from the crowd in a Lanz jacket, moving away from the conventional black-and-grey smoking jackets.
The brand has elevated the traditional clothing of Salzburg to international fame, combining tradition with innovation. This fusion is reflected in the unique word "lanzy", which embodies the idea of "folklore for world citizens" or simply "elegance and well-being". The Lanz family has successfully modernised 'tracht', making it accessible and appealing to a contemporary audience.
Additionally, the durability and warmth of Austrian clothing, often made from boiled wool, contribute to its timeless appeal. The intricate process of creating Loden fabric, passed down through generations, ensures the fabric's strength, fineness, and warmth. This tradition of craftsmanship, combined with innovative design, has allowed stores like Lanz Trachten to showcase Austrian tradition and style to the world.
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Frequently asked questions
The traditional clothing in Austria is called 'tracht'. Women wear 'dirndls', which consist of a close-fitting bodice and an apron in a different colour. Men wear 'lederhosen', which are knee-length trousers or short pants made from leather, along with rustic shoes and wool socks.
Dirndls can be made from a variety of materials depending on the occasion. Everyday wear dirndls are made from plain cotton, while those worn on feast days and to church are made from more luxurious fabrics such as brocade, silk or velvet.
Lederhosen are made from leather.
Yes, the film and stage productions of *The Sound of Music* feature traditional Austrian clothing, with Maria Augusta von Trapp wearing a dirndl.
If you're looking to buy traditional Austrian clothing, there are several specialist stores in Salzburg and Vienna. In Salzburg, there are around 20 makers of traditional costumes and specialist stores. In Vienna, you can visit the original traditional clothing store, Lanz Trachten, which has been around since the early 20th century.
