Explore The Unique Beauty Of Traditional Bolivian Women's Attire

The traditional clothing of women in Bolivia varies across the country due to the many cultures and ethnic groups present. The clothing also differs according to regional climate, income levels, and personal choice. In general, the traditional dress of highland Indian women of indigenous descent includes a colourful, layered, pleated skirt known as a 'pollera', a silky shawl called a 'manta', a frilly blouse, and a 19th-century European bowler hat. The 'pollera' was originally imposed on indigenous women by Spanish colonial rulers, but today it is a symbol of pride for indigenous women. In rural areas, young women often continue to wear traditional clothing every day, whereas in larger cities, Western-style clothing is becoming more common.

The pollera: a colourful, layered, pleated skirt

The pollera is a colourful, layered, pleated skirt in the style of a Spanish peasant. It was originally a simple Spanish dress that colonial rulers forced indigenous women to wear to easily identify them and set them apart from the rest of the population. The pollera was intended to replace the traditional long tunic belted around the middle that was worn previously.

The pollera is a symbol of pride for indigenous people and part of their culture. Women saw the ability to change and adapt an old-fashioned style of skirt as empowerment. The pollera is usually worn with a manta, a brightly coloured silky shawl, a frilly blouse, and a practical apron. To finish the outfit, a 19th-century European bowler hat, known as a bombin, is worn. These hats are often in different vibrant colours.

The pollera is heavier than it looks due to its many layers, which help keep the wearer warm. It is usually accompanied by a poncho, also called a manta, and women often wear a warm alpaca sweater underneath.

The length of the pollera varies depending on the region. In La Paz, the pollera is long and reaches down to the ankles, whereas in Cochabamba, Chuquisaca, and Tarija, the skirts are less voluminous and only go down to the knees. In Tarija, the pollera is shorter than anywhere else.

The manta: a silky shawl

The manta is a silky shawl worn by highland Bolivian women of indigenous descent. It is part of a traditional outfit that includes the pollera (a colourful, layered, pleated skirt), a frilly blouse, a practical apron, leg warmers, and a bowler hat.

The pollera was originally a simple Spanish dress that colonial rulers forced indigenous women to wear to easily identify and set apart the often-looked-down-upon native community. However, the pollera is now a symbol of pride for indigenous women. The manta shawl, worn over the shoulders or head, is also an important part of this outfit. In La Paz, the manta is thick and usually one colour, pinned together at the front with a long stick pin or large safety pin. In Cochabamba and Tarija, women wear smaller, embroidered shawls with fringe.

The traditional outfit is worn daily by many older women in Bolivia, especially in rural areas. However, younger women are increasingly adopting Western-style clothing, such as jeans and t-shirts, and reserving the traditional outfit for special occasions and celebrations.

The bowler hat: a 19th-century European accessory

The bowler hat, also known as a derby hat in the USA, is an iconic accessory with a rich history that dates back to the 19th century. Originally designed in 1849 by London hat-makers Thomas and William Bowler, it was created to address the limitations of the top hat, which was prone to being knocked off by low-hanging branches while riding horseback. The bowler hat's close-fitting, low-crowned design offered a more secure and durable alternative, making it a popular choice for British, Irish, and American working classes during the second half of the 19th century. Over time, its popularity extended to the middle and upper classes in the United Kingdom, Ireland, and the east coast of the United States.

The bowler hat played a significant role in the American West, where it was favoured by cowboys and railroad workers due to its ability to withstand strong winds. It was also worn by notable outlaws such as Butch Cassidy and Billy the Kid, solidifying its place in American history and culture. The hat's functionality and elegance made it a versatile accessory, suitable for both formal and informal attire.

In the context of traditional Bolivian clothing for women, the bowler hat holds a unique significance. Introduced to Bolivia in the 1920s by British railway workers, it became an integral part of the indigenous women's attire in the Andean regions. The bowler hat, known locally as "bombin", is paired with the pollera (pleated skirt), a silky shawl called "manta", a frilly blouse, and an apron. This combination creates a vivid and striking effect, with the hat often featuring vibrant colours.

While the adoption of Western-style clothing is becoming more prevalent among younger women in Bolivia, the traditional outfit, including the bowler hat, remains a symbol of pride and cultural identity for many women, especially in rural areas. It is worn daily by older women and during special occasions and festivals by younger generations, showcasing the enduring significance of this 19th-century European accessory in modern-day Bolivia.

The chola wardrobe: a fashion distinctive to the Aymare

The chola wardrobe is a fashion distinctive to the Aymare, who are South America's second-largest indigenous group. The chola style is a blend of pre-colonial and colonial-era influences. The Spanish colonizers imposed European clothing styles on the indigenous population, including the pollera, a colourful, layered, pleated skirt, which was originally a Spanish peasant garment. The pollera is a symbol of pride for indigenous people, and women in particular, who view it as a part of their cultural identity. The pollera is typically accompanied by a manta, a brightly coloured silky shawl, a frilly blouse, and a practical apron. To complete the look, a 19th-century European bowler hat, known as a bombin, is perched on top of the head.

The chola wardrobe varies across different states in Bolivia. For example, in La Paz, the pollera skirt is long and reaches down to the ankles, while in Cochabamba and Chuquisaca, the skirts are less voluminous and only reach down to the knees. In Tarija, the pollera is even shorter. The same can be said for the mantilla (shawl), which differs in size and design depending on the region. For instance, in La Paz, the mantilla is thick and usually a single colour, while in Cochabamba and Tarija, the shawls are smaller, embroidered with designs, and hemmed with fringe.

While the chola wardrobe has traditionally been worn by older women in their daily lives, younger women are increasingly adopting Western-style clothing, such as jeans and t-shirts. However, the chola outfit is still worn by younger women during special occasions, celebrations, and festivals. In rural areas, the traditional chola wardrobe is still the standard attire for women of all ages.

The chola style has also gained attention in the fashion industry, with Bolivian designer Glenda Yanez incorporating the styles of indigenous Aymara women into high fashion. Yanez's work showcases the pride that indigenous people feel about their cultural dress and challenges preconceptions about the traditional clothing of the Aymara women.

The cholita: a high-fashion statement

The election of Bolivia's first indigenous president in 2006 brought about a new era for the country's indigenous culture, with indigenous styles making their way onto the world's top catwalks. The traditional dress of the indigenous Aymara women, known as Cholas or Cholitas, has been elevated to high fashion by Bolivian designers such as Glenda Yanez, who is proud to showcase her cultural heritage.

The Chola wardrobe is distinctive to the Aymara, the second-largest indigenous group in South America. The most important element of the traditional outfit is the multi-layered, colourful, and pleated skirt, or pollera, which is usually accompanied by a silky shawl, or manta, and a 19th-century European bowler hat, or borsalino. The pollera was originally a Spanish dress that colonial rulers forced indigenous women to wear to set them apart from the rest of the population. However, today, the pollera is a symbol of pride and cultural identity for indigenous women.

The rest of the Chola outfit typically includes a frilly blouse, a practical apron, and leg warmers. The overall effect is very vivid and striking, with the different elements of the outfit combining to create a stylish and powerful statement.

While many older women wear this outfit for their everyday activities, younger women are increasingly adopting Western-style clothing, such as jeans and t-shirts, as the norm. The traditional outfit is now often reserved for special occasions and celebrations, especially among younger women. This shift is due to a variety of factors, including the desire to conform to global dress codes in educational and professional settings, the cost of traditional clothing and accessories, and the fear of discrimination based on traditional dress.

However, the Chola style continues to be a source of inspiration for designers like Yanez, who is changing preconceptions about indigenous Aymara women's traditional dress and empowering them to express their cultural identity through fashion.

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