Exploring Bolivia: A Local's Perspective

Bolivia is a culturally and geographically diverse country in the middle of South America. It has a lot to offer expats, including awe-inspiring views of the Andes Mountains, modern conveniences, an up-and-coming wine country, friendly people, a comfortable climate for most of the year, and a low cost of living. The country is landlocked and shares borders with Peru, Chile, Brazil, and Paraguay. Bolivia's economy is growing, and its GDP increased by 6.8% in 2014. The country has one of the lowest crime rates in South America and boasts a thriving restaurant scene.

Bolivia's diverse geography

Bolivia is a landlocked country in the middle of South America, bordering Peru, Chile, Brazil and Paraguay. It is a country of diverse geography, from the high cities of the Andes to the low-lying Amazon rainforest. Bolivia is home to some of the world's highest cities, the largest salt flats, and a section of the Amazon rainforest.

The country's diverse geography presents some challenges to transportation and travel. Most travel is done by road, and only 6% of roads are paved, which, combined with a lack of road signage and attention to road safety, can make for hazardous driving conditions. The country's three main airports are located in the cities of La Paz, Cochabamba, and Santa Cruz. Big cities are generally well-connected, but some remote villages can be difficult to reach, especially during the rainy season.

The country's diverse geography and climates provide a variety of outdoor activities and experiences for residents and visitors alike. Bolivia offers challenging mountaineering routes, pleasant weather for outdoor dining and socialising, and breathtaking natural wonders like the Uyuni Salt Flats and the Noel Kempff Mercado National Park, where one can experience evergreen Amazonian forests and an array of birdlife.

Healthcare in Bolivia

Bolivia has an insurance-based healthcare system that is currently in reform. This reform is centred around decentralisation, and insurance for mothers and children, and is partly funded by international organisations such as the World Bank. The number of doctors in Bolivia has doubled in recent years to 130 per 100,000 people, which is similar to other South American countries. However, private clinics and hospitals that don't rely on government funding offer better services, although they are more expensive than public healthcare.

In 2019, the Bolivian government introduced the Single Health System (SUS) model, aiming to provide universal and free coverage to 50% of the population, protecting an estimated five million uninsured Bolivians. This was in response to the fact that 6% of households across Bolivia face catastrophic health expenditures and subsequent impoverishment, with underserved groups such as indigenous communities and informal labourers being the most vulnerable to high out-of-pocket health expenses. Bolivia's large informal sector means a significant proportion of the workforce lack health insurance coverage.

The SUS model has increased public health expenditure, strengthened primary health services, and reduced out-of-pocket expenses for vulnerable communities. During the COVID-19 pandemic, SUS provided funds for the prompt acquisition of drugs and medical supplies, particularly at the primary healthcare level, in all 339 municipalities of the country. SUS also strengthened first-level care with an emphasis on epidemiological surveillance, neighbourhood clinics, and healthcare services for underserved communities.

Despite improvements, there are still deficiencies in the implementation of SUS. These include a lack of guidelines for quality control in infrastructure, healthcare services, and human resources; insufficient medical personnel, medicines, and beds for hospitalisation; bureaucratic procedures; a lack of internal auditors; and deficient information dissemination to the population about the benefits provided by SUS.

In addition, Bolivians living in rural areas lack proper sanitation and medical services, leaving them vulnerable to diseases such as malaria and Chagas disease. Only 20% of the rural population in Bolivia has access to safe water and sanitation.

The cost of healthcare in Bolivia is relatively low, with doctor visits costing between $15 to $30, and medications available at about 30% of US prices. However, the system for making appointments, even in private clinics, can be cumbersome, requiring patients to obtain a ticket early in the morning and then wait several hours to see the doctor.

Overall, while Bolivia's healthcare system has seen improvements in recent years, there are still challenges to be addressed to ensure adequate and accessible healthcare for all its citizens.

Safety and security

Bolivia is considered to have one of the lowest crime rates in South America, and most of its major cities have a medium threat level for crime, comparable to larger cities in the United States. However, it is important to remain vigilant and take precautions to ensure your safety and security while living in or visiting Bolivia. Here are some key points to consider:

Crime

Petty crime, such as pickpocketing and purse snatching, is common in central La Paz, other popular tourist destinations, on buses, and in crowded areas. Violent crimes like assault and robbery against foreigners are rare, but it is important to remain cautious. Fraud is also relatively rare but should be kept in mind. To protect yourself from theft, it is recommended to keep your belongings close, avoid looking flashy, and use proper registered taxis. Be extra cautious at transport hubs like taxi ranks, bus terminals, and train stations. Try to avoid using ATMs at night or in deserted places, and always be aware of your surroundings.

Scams and Imposters

There have been reports of "express kidnappings", where victims are held hostage for a short period while criminals use their stolen bank or credit cards. Be cautious of people offering help at taxi stands and bus terminals, as thieves sometimes work in teams to distract their victims. Additionally, watch out for fake police officers who may impersonate officers to target foreigners. They may use fake police ID cards, uniforms, and even police stations to fool victims. Be aware of your surroundings and always trust your instincts if a situation feels suspicious.

Protests and Civil Unrest

Protests, marches, and demonstrations can occur with little prior notice in Bolivia. It is important to avoid large gatherings and protests whenever possible and to stay alert by monitoring local media and following the advice of local authorities. Road blockades are also common during protests, which can affect public transport and strand travellers.

Transportation

Road travel in Bolivia can be hazardous due to poor road conditions, low driving standards, and a lack of attention to road safety. Serious accidents have occurred on major tourist routes, and only about 6% of roads are paved. Driving standards are generally low, and vehicles are often poorly maintained. Broken-down vehicles without warning lights pose a frequent hazard on roads at night. When using taxis, seek local advice and use established companies. Order taxis by phone, and always check for a sticker on the windscreen or windows, as registered taxis should display this. Avoid getting into a taxi that already has passengers inside.

Health and Safety

Bolivia is home to mosquitoes that spread dengue fever, especially in the lower areas of Rurrenabaque and Santa Cruz. It is recommended to take precautions against mosquito bites in these regions. Additionally, the high altitude of certain regions in Bolivia can cause altitude sickness, especially in La Paz, which is the highest-altitude capital in the world. It is important to take it easy, stay hydrated, and avoid strenuous activities until you have acclimatised.

Natural Hazards

Bolivia experiences a rainy season from November to March, during which flooding and landslides are common, particularly in mountainous areas. These natural disasters can make roads impassable for days at a time.

Cost of living

Bolivia is considered to have a low cost of living compared to other countries in South America, and even the world. It is the cheapest country in Latin America and the fourth cheapest country in the world.

The cost of living in Bolivia is said to be 61.5% lower than in the United States. A retired couple can live a very comfortable life in Bolivia for around $1,550 per month, while a single person can live on $477.4 per month, without rent.

Accommodation in Bolivia is affordable, with prices varying depending on the location and type of property. In the city of Sucre, a one-bedroom apartment in a safe, central neighbourhood can cost around $200 per month, while a similar apartment in the historic district of the city of Cochabamba can be rented for less than $300 per month. A three-bedroom apartment in an upscale neighbourhood of Cochabamba can be rented for between $600 and $800 per month.

Food prices in Bolivia are also low, with a single person's monthly food budget coming in at around $220. Eating out is inexpensive, with a three-course meal for two people costing just under $3 at some restaurants. Groceries for two people per month are estimated at $200, and a three-course meal at an inexpensive restaurant for one person can be as little as $2-3.

Transportation costs are also relatively low in Bolivia. Taxis are cheap, with rides starting at 75 cents, and buses are the primary means of transportation for most Bolivians, with tickets costing around 20 cents per ride.

Utilities are generally affordable in Bolivia, with basic utilities like water and electricity often included in rent. Internet services can be costly in certain regions, but many cities rely on solar energy and rainwater harvesting, which can reduce utility costs.

Overall, Bolivia offers a low cost of living, with a single person able to live comfortably on $600 to $1,000 per month, depending on their lifestyle and location.

Transportation

Bolivia's diverse geography, including some of the world's highest cities, the largest salt flats, and parts of the Amazon rainforest, presents unique transportation challenges. Most travel is done by road, with only 6% of roads paved, and travel can be hazardous, especially during the rainy season.

Road

Bolivia has 62,479 km of roads, with 3,749 km paved and 58,730 km unpaved. The country maintains a small network of 4-lane freeways, and big cities are generally well-connected. However, road travel can be dangerous due to poor road conditions, a lack of signage, and a general disregard for road safety. Driving in Bolivia is on the right-hand side, and the drink-drive limit is 0.07% BAC.

The majority of Bolivians travel by bus, as they are affordable and go almost everywhere. Buses are run by various private companies and can be extremely old and uncomfortable, with frequent breakdowns. However, some modern buses offer reclining seats and TVs, and overnight sleeper buses with extra legroom are also available. Buses often stop for meals and vendors, but it is recommended to carry food and drinks. When travelling in the highlands or at night, warm clothing is essential.

For shorter distances, Bolivians also use micros, small minibuses that serve as the main form of urban public transport. They are very affordable but cramped, with extra seats fitted into their small interiors.

For those seeking more comfort, taxis are readily available in most towns and offer a cheap and relatively safe way to get around. It is recommended to agree on a price before setting off, as foreigners may be overcharged. Radio taxis, which can be called by phone, tend to be safer but more expensive.

In remote cities and towns in the lowlands, moto-taxis, or motorcycles used as taxis, are a common mode of transport. They are cheap and fast but can be a bit frightening.

For the adventurous, heavy-goods lorries (camiones) offer a quintessential Bolivian experience. They are slow, uncomfortable, and dangerous but provide a unique perspective on the country. Passengers usually ride in the cab with the driver or on the back of the lorry.

Air

Bolivia has three main airports in La Paz, Cochabamba, and Santa Cruz, serving most internal flights. Air travel is a convenient option for longer distance journeys, saving time and offering stunning views of the Andes and Amazon. Internal flights typically cost between Bs350-700 ($50-$100).

Rail

Historically important, railways now play a minor role in Bolivia's transportation system. However, trains can be a safe and comfortable option for travel, offering scenic routes across the Altiplano and to neighbouring countries. Bolivia's first light rail network is under construction in Cochabamba and is expected to open in 2020.

Water

Waterways are still essential for transportation in some regions, particularly around Lake Titicaca and the Amazon. High-end tour agencies offer cruises and catamaran rides, while smaller passenger launches and riverboats are common in the Bolivian Amazon. Travelling by boat is an ideal way to experience the rainforest, but it is important to ensure the vessel is in good condition and not overcrowded.

Frequently asked questions