The Saltena: A Tasty Treat From Bolivia

Salteñas are Bolivia's version of empanadas, a baked dough pastry filled with savoury meat and vegetables. They are considered Bolivia's national dish and can be found in any town or city throughout the country. They are typically eaten as a mid-morning snack, often served with Bolivian salsa called llajua, and accompanied by coffee, soda or tea.

The pastry is filled with a juicy gelatin-based stew that is solid when prepared but melts when baked. The filling is a sweet and spicy mixture of meat, eggs, vegetables and various spices. The meat can be shredded beef, chicken or pork, mixed with a sweet and slightly spicy sauce containing olives, raisins, potatoes and sometimes egg.

The salteña is sealed with a braided look, with the seal on top instead of on its side, which is how it differs from other empanadas. They are baked with the seal facing upwards and have a distinctive golden yellow colour.

History of the Salteña

The salteña, a type of meat pastry, is a traditional Bolivian street food. It is a cousin of the empanada and is named after the Argentinian city of Salta. As the story goes, this street food treat was invented by Jauna Manuela Gorriti, a woman who became a well-known figure in 19th-century South American politics. Gorriti was from Salta, and the empanadas took on the name of her birthplace as she sold the salteñas to support her family.

Salteñas are often eaten as a mid-morning snack and can be found at street vendors across Bolivia. They are known for their juicy filling, which can be made with chicken, shredded beef, ground beef, or pork. The pastry is slightly sweet, and the filling is savoury.

Traditionally, salteñas contain a slice of hard-boiled egg, an olive, and sometimes even raisins. The addition of gelatin to the filling while it is still hot makes the salteñas easier to handle and prevents them from becoming soggy. The mixture is then chilled until it thickens, and as the salteñas bake, the gelatin melts, and the broth becomes liquid again.

To ensure the salteñas do not open during the cooking process, the edges of the dough are pinched and twisted to form a "braided look." This technique, called a "braided" seam or "repulgue," is one of the main features that differentiate salteñas from most empanadas. Salteñas are also baked in an upright position, rather than on their side.

Ingredients and preparation

Salteñas are the Bolivian version of an empanada, but unlike empanadas, they are filled with brothy stew. They are often referred to as hand pies or baked empanadas. The pastry is usually shaped like a football and contains a sweet and tender crust. The filling can be made with chicken, beef, or no meat at all.

Broth

The key to packing the pastry with maximum soup-age is a sticky and concentrated gelatin-rich broth. The gelatin sets like a wiggly Jell-O Jiggler when chilled. Once baked in a hot oven, the filling melts and gurgles inside its shell. The gelatin can be made by slowly simmering beef marrow bones or chicken feet to extract their collagen, which sets the filling into a gel. Alternatively, boxed broth and powdered gelatin can be combined to recreate the long-cooked extraction.

Filling

The stew can be made with chicken, beef, or no meat at all. The salteña filling traditionally includes peas, golden raisins, a slice of hard-boiled egg, and a black olive. The stew is seasoned with oregano and aji panca (a mild, fruity Peruvian pepper) that complements the sweet crust.

Dough

The pastry for the salteñas needs to be heartier than your usual pie dough. It is traditionally made with a hot water pastry for stability and strength. Using hot water in the crust causes the starch granules to quickly swell and drink in liquid while mixing the dough, so it doesn’t sop up your broth later. It also quickly develops gluten without kneading, giving enough structure and elasticity to form the salteñas without turning the pastry tough or bready.

The pastry is made by melting butter with some annatto for colour. The gentle warmth blooms the spice, giving the melted fat a deep sunset hue, which in turn saturates the dough for its trademark golden salteña glow. The addition of annatto is just for colour and can be replaced with a combination of paprika and turmeric. After whisking the flour, salt, and sugar, the melted butter is added and mixed in thoroughly with hands. Once fully incorporated, it will feel similar to streusel, holding together in large clumps when squeezed but easily crumbling back into wet sand. A small amount of boiling water helps it come together into a smooth dough.

The final step is to divide the dough into even portions, folding it onto itself until it forms a smooth ball. The dough balls are then patted into disks to make them easier to roll out, and covered with plastic until ready to assemble.

Assembly

Each disk of dough is rolled out on a lightly floured surface into an eight-inch round (about one-eighth of an inch thick). Each disk gets a big scoop of chilled filling in the centre of the dough, which is then crowned with a piece of hard-boiled egg and two olive halves.

To seal the pastries, the edges of the dough are brushed with egg white. Then, the edges are lifted up and over the filling, pinching them closed to form a plump crescent with a seam running across the top. The seam is then crimped shut to ensure that no filling escapes while baking.

The salteñas are placed on a sheet tray and transferred to the freezer to chill for at least an hour before baking, or until fully frozen for long-term storage. For a shiny finish, the pastries are brushed with egg white just before transferring them to a hot oven. They are baked until the crust is golden brown and the seam is crisp and blackened.

Variations of fillings

Salteñas are a type of baked empanada, a cousin to the traditional empanada, and can be filled with a variety of savoury and sweet ingredients. The most common fillings are beef or chicken, but vegetarian options are also available. The fillings are mixed in a sweet, slightly spicy sauce, and can include olives, raisins, potatoes, and hard-boiled eggs.

The beef filling can be made with ground beef or shredded beef, and is cooked with vegetables such as peas, spring onions, parsley, and potatoes. Spices such as cumin, paprika, and black pepper are added for flavour, and the distinctive red colour comes from annatto seeds. The beef mixture is then placed inside the dough, along with a slice of hard-boiled egg, a few black olives, and some raisins.

Chicken is another popular filling option for salteñas. The chicken is cooked and shredded, and then mixed with vegetables and spices similar to the beef filling. This filling is also placed inside the dough with the hard-boiled egg, olives, and raisins.

In addition to the beef and chicken options, there are also vegetarian salteñas available at certain restaurants. These are filled with a variety of vegetables, such as potatoes, peas, and carrots, and are seasoned with spices to add flavour.

The unique feature of salteñas is the soupy, gelatin-based filling. The gelatin is added to the filling mixture and allowed to set, so that when the salteñas are baked, the filling melts into a stew-like texture. This gives the pastries their characteristic juiciness and makes them a bit messy to eat!

How to eat a Salteña

A salteña is a delicious, handheld pastry native to Bolivia, often enjoyed as a snack or a quick, satisfying meal on the go. Eating this savory treat is a messy but enjoyable endeavor, and knowing the proper technique will ensure you get the full experience of this beloved Bolivian delicacy. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to eat a salteña like a local:

Step 1: Choose Your Salteña

Salteñas come in various flavors, with chicken, beef, or pork being the most common fillings. They are typically very juicy, with a broth-like consistency inside, so be prepared for a messy but tasty experience! Choose your salteña based on your preference for meat or ask the vendor for their recommendation if you're feeling adventurous.

Step 2: Find Your Utensil

Salteñas are traditionally eaten by hand, but you will need a spoon to accompany your hands. The spoon is used to capture and savor the delicious broth that spills out as you bite into the pastry. Some vendors provide a small, disposable spoon, but carrying your reusable spoon is also common and more environmentally friendly.

Step 3: Prepare Your Eating Space

Eating a salteña can be a messy affair, so it's best to be prepared. If you're eating while standing or walking, hold the salteña in its paper bag to catch any drips or spills. If you're sitting at a table, you may want to ask for a small plate to place your salteña on as you eat, though this is not necessary if you're comfortable with a messier eating experience.

Step 4: Take Your First Bite

Now for the fun part! Hold the salteña in one hand and your spoon in the other. Take your first bite, aiming for a generous, juicy portion of the pastry. As you bite down, tilt the salteña slightly over your spoon to capture the broth that will inevitably spill out. Take your time and savor this burst of flavor.

Step 5: Enjoy the Rest

Continue eating your salteña, alternating between bites of the pastry and sips of the broth from your spoon. Enjoy the combination of tender meat, savory vegetables, and the unique, spicy flavor of the salteña. As you near the end, you may want to tear the pastry open slightly to ensure you get every last drop of the delicious filling.

Remember, eating a salteña is meant to be a fun, sensory experience, so don't worry too much about the mess. This beloved snack is a staple of Bolivian culture, and enjoying it like a local is part of the charm. So, embrace the juices, savor the flavors, and enjoy this unique culinary treat!

Where to find Salteñas

Salteñas, the iconic empanadas of Bolivia, are a traditional Bolivian street food. They are named after the Argentinian city of Salta, as they were invented by a woman from Salta named Jauna Manuela Gorriti, who became a well-known figure in 19th-century South American politics. Salteñas are often served with the Bolivian salsa called llajua and are especially popular as a midsnack morning snack.

You can find salteñas in Bolivia, of course, where they are readily available from street vendors. They are also available in other countries, as they have become a popular snack with tourists and expatriates. Here are some places where you can find salteñas:

La Paz, Bolivia

La Paz is known for its street food, and salteñas are no exception. You can find them at many street vendors and markets throughout the city. One popular spot is the Mercado de las Brujas (Witch Market), where you can find all sorts of traditional Bolivian foods and remedies.

Cochabamba, Bolivia

Cochabamba is another city in Bolivia that is known for its delicious street food. Salteñas are a popular choice here, and you can find them at many street vendors and local restaurants. The city even has a "Salteña Route" that you can follow to find the best salteñas in town.

US

In the US, salteñas can be found in cities with large Bolivian populations, such as Los Angeles, Washington, D.C., and Miami. For example, in Los Angeles, you can find salteñas at the Bolivia Food Corner in North Hollywood or the Salteña Factory in Reseda.

UK

In the UK, salteñas can be found at various South American restaurants and bakeries in London, such as the Bolivian Food Company in Southwark or the Salteña Bakery in Camden.

Online

If you can't find salteñas near you, you can always order them online. Several companies sell frozen salteñas that can be shipped to your door, such as Salteña Factory in the US or Salteña UK in the UK.

Frequently asked questions