Exploring Baku's Zoroastrian Fire Temple

The Zoroastrian Fire Temple in Baku, Azerbaijan, is a fascinating relic of history and a testament to the cultural exchange between the Indian subcontinent and Europe. Known as the Ateshgah of Baku, or the Fire Temple of Baku, this castle-like structure served as a place of worship for Zoroastrians, Hindus, and Sikhs. Located on the Absheron Peninsula, the temple was built on a natural gas vent, with fire playing a central role in rituals and worship. The debate continues as to whether the temple was originally Zoroastrian or Hindu, as it combines architectural elements from both faiths. The complex, with its pentagonal walls and central altar, has a rich history that reflects the religious diversity of the region.

The Zoroastrian Fire Temple's history and construction

Fire temples are places of worship for followers of Zoroastrianism, the ancient religion of Persia. In Zoroastrianism, fire, or atar, together with aban (water), are agents of ritual purity. The rituals of fire are contemporary with Zoroastrianism itself, first appearing in the 9th century BCE.

Zoroastrian fire temples are built to serve the fire within them, and are classified according to the grade of fire they house. There are three grades of fire: Atash Dadgah, Atash Adaran, and Atash Behram. The highest grade of fire temples were first constructed in the Sasanian Empire to revere fire, which is the manifestation of Ahura Mazda in Zoroastrianism.

The basic structure of present-day fire temples is always the same. On entry, one comes into a large space or hall where a congregation may gather. Off to the side of this is an anteroom, connected to which is the innermost sanctum, or atashgah, where the actual fire altar stands. The sanctum is separated from the anteroom by dividers or walls with very large openings, and is slightly raised. The walls of the inner sanctum are tiled or made of marble, but are otherwise undecorated. There are no lights other than that of the fire itself. In one corner hangs a bell, which is rung five times a day at the boi ceremony, marking the beginning of each gah, or 'watch'.

The oldest remains of what has been identified as a fire temple are those on Mount Khajeh, near Lake Hamun in Sistan, which have been dated to the 3rd or 4th century BCE. The temple was rebuilt during the Parthian era (250 BCE-226 CE) and enlarged during Sassanid times (226-650 CE). The characteristic feature of the Sassanid fire temple was its domed sanctuary where the fire altar stood.

The Ateshgah of Baku, often called the "Fire Temple of Baku", is a castle-like religious temple in Surakhany town, a suburb of Baku, Azerbaijan. The pentagonal complex, which has a courtyard surrounded by cells for monks and a tetrapillar-altar in the middle, was built during the 17th and 18th centuries. It was used as a Hindu, Sikh, and Zoroastrian place of worship. The temple ceased to be a place of worship after 1883 due to the installation of petroleum plants in the area. The complex was turned into a museum in 1975 and was nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.

The temple's religious significance

The Zoroastrian Fire Temple in Baku, Azerbaijan, is a place of significant religious importance. The temple, built on top of a natural flame, was founded as a place of sacrifice. Fire rituals at the site date back to at least the 10th century, though the current structure was built in the 17th and 18th centuries. The temple's altar is situated above a natural gas vent, with a large flame in the middle and four smaller flames on the rooftop corners of the pavilion.

The temple was a place of worship for Zoroastrians, Hindus, and Sikhs. Fire holds great significance in Zoroastrianism, representing light, wisdom, and truth, and acting as a bridge between the spiritual and physical worlds. For Zoroastrians, fire is a sacred channel through which mortal believers can connect with God and gain protection from the demonic forces that live in the darkness. No ritual is conducted without the presence of fire, and temples like the one in Baku are built to keep these sacred flames burning.

The temple in Baku was a pilgrimage and philosophical centre for Zoroastrians from the Northwestern Indian subcontinent, who were involved in trade with the Caspian area. The four holy elements of their belief were: ateshi (fire), badi (air), abi (water), and heki (earth).

The temple's design incorporates elements of both Zoroastrian and Hindu architecture. The structure is pentagonal, with a courtyard surrounded by cells for monks and a tetrapillar-altar in the middle. The debate continues as to whether the temple was originally a Zoroastrian or Hindu place of worship. The most established theory suggests that it was initially Zoroastrian but evolved into a predominantly Hindu place of worship over time.

The temple was abandoned in the late 19th century, likely due to the dwindling Indian population in the area. In 1975, the complex was turned into a museum, and in 1998, it was nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The temple's decline and abandonment

The Zoroastrian Fire Temple in Surakhani, about 15 km from Baku, Azerbaijan, is an ancient temple that was once a thriving center of worship for Zoroastrians in the region. While the exact dates of its construction remain unknown, it is believed to have been built sometime between the 7th and 10th centuries AD. Over time, however, the temple fell into decline and was eventually abandoned.

The decline of the Zoroastrian Fire Temple began in the late 19th century when the Caucasus region, including Azerbaijan, was undergoing significant social and political changes. The Russian Empire's expansion into the region brought with it a shift in religious dynamics, as Orthodox Christianity became the dominant faith. As a result, Zoroastrianism, which had already been in decline for centuries, faced further marginalization. The number of Zoroastrians in Azerbaijan began to dwindle, and those who remained often faced discrimination and persecution.

The fire temple's remoteness, which had once been a factor in its sacred significance, also contributed to its decline. As the Zoroastrian community shrank, the temple became more isolated and difficult to access. With fewer priests and devotees to tend to the sacred fire and maintain the temple grounds, the site gradually fell into disrepair. The lack of maintenance, combined with the harsh environmental conditions of the region, took its toll on the structure.

Additionally, the discovery of oil in the Surakhani region in the late 19th century brought significant industrial development to the area. The once-remote location of the temple suddenly found itself in the midst of oil fields and refineries. The industrial activities not only changed the landscape but also disrupted the peaceful and sacred atmosphere that had been integral to the temple's significance. The encroachment of the oil industry likely contributed to the decision to abandon the temple.

By the early 20th century, the Zoroastrian Fire Temple was largely abandoned. The final blow came with the onset of the Soviet era, when religious persecution intensified and Zoroastrianism, along with other faiths, was harshly suppressed. The temple and its surrounding structures were left to the elements, and over time, nature began to reclaim the site. The once-majestic temple fell further into ruin, with only remnants of its former glory remaining.

Today, the Zoroastrian Fire Temple stands as a silent testament to a once-vibrant religious community. While it may no longer be a center of worship, it continues to hold historical and cultural significance, reminding visitors of the rich tapestry of faiths that have shaped the region's history. Efforts are now underway to preserve and restore the temple complex, ensuring that this important piece of Zoroastrian heritage is not lost to the passage of time.

The temple's restoration and current status

The Fire Temple of Baku, or Ateshgah, is a castle-like religious temple located 21 km east of Baku, in the suburb of Surakhany. The temple was built during the 17th and 18th centuries and was used as a Hindu, Sikh, and Zoroastrian place of worship. The temple is a pentagonal complex with a courtyard surrounded by cells for monks and a tetrapillar-altar in the middle.

The temple fell into disuse in the late 19th century, likely due to the dwindling Indian population in the area. The natural eternal flame that burned for centuries was extinguished in 1969 due to the heavy exploitation of the area's natural gas reserves. However, the Azerbaijani government has since taken steps to preserve and restore the temple. In 1975, the complex was turned into a museum, and in 1998, it was nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Today, the flames in the temple are fed by gas piped in from Baku, and they are only lit when visitors are present. The temple remains a popular tourist destination, especially for visitors from India. The debate continues as to whether the temple was originally a Zoroastrian or Hindu place of worship, as it incorporates architectural elements from both faiths. The most established theory suggests that it was initially a Zoroastrian temple that evolved into a predominantly Hindu place of worship over time.

In December 2007, the temple was declared a state historical-architectural reserve by the President of Azerbaijan. This designation recognises the temple's cultural and historical significance and provides a framework for its preservation and restoration. In July 2009, the Azerbaijani government announced a grant of AZN 1 million for the upkeep of the shrine, demonstrating its ongoing commitment to preserving this important piece of the country's religious and cultural heritage.

The temple's architectural features

The Ateshgah of Baku, often called the "Fire Temple of Baku", is a castle-like temple with a pentagonal structure. The complex has a courtyard surrounded by cells for monks and a tetrapillar altar in the middle. The altar is situated above a natural gas vent, with a large flame in the middle and four smaller flames on the rooftop corners of the pavilion. The Zoroastrian fire temple combines architectural features of both Hindu and Zoroastrian faiths.

The exterior wall that embraces all the cells and houses provides the temple with an old Persian caravanserai appearance. The blank wall has a traditional guest room or "balakhane" above the entrance portal. The temple has a castellation and entrance portal, with a courtyard in the centre. In the courtyard, there is a famous well with "eternally" burning gas. Surrounding the well are towers, with a yard of cells around them.

The temple has a combination of Sanskrit, Punjabi, and Persian inscriptions. The Sanskrit and Punjabi inscriptions are on almost every doorway, left behind by Hindu and Sikh travellers. The Persian inscription is ungrammatical but refers to fire and is dated 1158 in the Lunar Hijri calendar (1745 CE).

The temple's central altar is not purely Hindu in its structure and has similarities to traditional Zoroastrian fire altars. The temple's design is also similar to the caravanserais (travellers' inns) of the region.

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