Brunei: A Hidden Gem Worth Exploring?

Brunei is a small country located on the island of Borneo. It is often overlooked by travellers, but it offers a unique blend of traditional culture and luxury. From breathtaking mosques to stilt villages built on water, Brunei has a lot to offer in terms of cultural and natural attractions. The capital city, Bandar Seri Begawan, is a great place to start exploring the country. It is home to the impressive Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, one of the largest and oldest mosques in the country. Brunei also boasts beautiful landscapes, impressive architecture, and friendly people. However, there are limited tourist activities and it can be challenging to get around, especially without a car. Overall, Brunei is worth visiting, especially for those interested in Islamic architecture and culture, but it may not be a top priority for travellers looking for a wider range of attractions and a more developed tourism infrastructure.

Brunei's human rights record

Bruneian Human Rights Record

Brunei's human rights situation is challenging to monitor independently due to a lack of transparency. The country's Shari'a Penal Code, if enacted, would allow for the death sentence, as well as physical punishments such as caning and stoning, amounting to torture. These revisions would discriminate against women and religious and sexual minorities, restricting their freedoms of thought, conscience, and religion.

Brunei's Syariah Criminal Code, which came into force in 2019, already discriminates against vulnerable groups, including children, women, and minorities, jeopardising their fundamental human rights. This goes against Brunei's commitments to international law and human rights accords, such as the Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Discrimination Against Women and the Convention on the Rights of the Child.

While Brunei has signed the Convention against Torture, it has not ratified it. As a UN member, the country has vowed to uphold the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. However, the country's laws and practices raise concerns about its commitment to these principles.

Brunei's record on freedom of speech and assembly is also concerning. Legislative Council members can express opinions, but they are restricted from using language deemed "irresponsible, insulting, scandalous, or damaging." Criticising the royal family or the Malay Islamic Monarchy concept is illegal. Self-censorship is common among journalists, and the government has the power to shut down newspapers, fine, and imprison journalists.

The LGBTQI+ community faces significant challenges, with same-sex relationships punishable by up to 10 years in prison. If Sharia law is fully enacted, these relationships could be punishable by death. While Sharia law technically applies only to Muslims, they constitute 65% of the population.

The Chinese community, making up about 10% of residents, faces difficulties in obtaining citizenship, resulting in their ineligibility for many benefits. Over 90% of them are stateless.

Human trafficking is another issue, with foreign workers vulnerable to exploitation. The government has increased efforts to combat trafficking, but critics note a lack of understanding of the issue and a focus on foreign perpetrators rather than Bruneian criminals.

While Brunei provides free education, healthcare, and pensions to its citizens, the country's human rights record, particularly regarding freedom of speech, assembly, and the rights of minorities, remains a significant concern for the international community.

Bandar Seri Begawan

Another notable mosque in the city is the Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, known for its unique and modern architectural design. This mosque has 29 golden domes and four minarets.

The city also boasts the Royal Regalia Museum, which showcases the history and culture of the Bruneian monarchy. The museum displays royal regalia, artefacts, and gifts that the Sultan has received from world leaders.

For food lovers, the Gadong Night Market is a must-visit. This bustling market offers a wide range of local delicacies, including grilled fish, potato skewers, sweet corn, and an assortment of fruit juices. Visitors can also sample the local specialty, chicken butt, at the Patong Night Market.

Brunei's mosques

Brunei has several beautiful mosques, the most famous of which is the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei. It is one of the two state mosques, the other being the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. The mosque was built in the 1950s and is known for its striking design, with a gold dome that dominates the city's skyline. It is surrounded by a man-made lagoon and features an interior decorated with rugs from Saudi Arabia, Italian marble, English chandeliers, and stained glass windows. The mosque is a popular tourist destination and has become the most photographed icon in the country.

Another notable mosque in Brunei is the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, which was built in 1992 to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Sultan's reign. This mosque is known for its unique and modern architectural design, featuring 29 golden domes and four minarets. While visitors cannot go inside, the exterior is impressive and well worth a visit.

In addition to these two prominent mosques, Brunei also has several other mosques that are worth visiting, including the Brunei International Airport Mosque.

Brunei's food scene

Bruneian cuisine is commonly spicy and eaten with either rice or noodles. Rice and fish are staple foods, and beef is less common due to its high cost. As the Islamic religion predominates in Brunei, the food is halal, and pork is avoided. Alcohol is banned.

• Nasi Katok: One of Brunei's most commonly found dishes, nasi katok consists of plain white rice, sambal (chilli shrimp relish), and a piece of fried chicken. It is sold from as little as B$1.
• Durian: There are a few types of durian unique to Brunei and the Borneo island, including Durian Sukang (red durian) and Durian Dalit (orange durian).
• Ambuyat: Brunei's national dish, ambuyat is made from the interior trunk of a sago palm. It is flavourless and eaten using a pair of prongs made from bamboo, called chandas. It is dipped into various side dishes, such as tempoyak (fermented durian paste), chilli sauce, ulaman (raw salad), or curry.
• Kelupis: A classic recipe created by the Malay people of Brunei, kelupis is a type of glutinous rice roll wrapped in Nyirik leaves. It is served during wedding ceremonies or special occasions.
• Cucur: A fritter, commonly found in Brunei's street food scene, made from deep-fried cut-up items such as bananas, sweet potatoes, and shrimps.
• Soto: A spiced soup with noodles or rice vermicelli topped with chicken or beef and garnished with chillies and herbs.
• Nasi Lemak: Coconut rice served with a spicy chilli jam and braised chicken.
• Murtabak: Crispy, fragrant flatbread served with condiments like sardines and corn beef.
• Satay: Grilled skewered meat, such as lamb satay and chicken skin satay.
• Seafood: Being located on the coast, Brunei has an abundance of seafood. Popular dishes include lobster platters and steamed fish.
• Ayam Penyet: Indonesian cuisine, consisting of fried chicken with sambal.
• Soto Pabo: Soto served with a unique, smoky fish dip.
• Japanese cuisine: Brunei is known for its affordable and good-quality sushi.
• Western food: Brunei has a surprisingly good selection of Western food, including pizza and pasta.
• Coffee: There are many good cafes in Brunei, serving a variety of coffee beans and styles.

Kampong Ayer

Today, Kampong Ayer is a fully functional community with schools, mosques, shops, a fire station, a police station, and even a hospital. The houses are traditionally made of wood and adopt the style of traditional Malay houses, with some newer architectural designs incorporating contemporary materials and traditional design elements.

You can explore Kampong Ayer by walking through the wooden and concrete platforms, or by taking a boat ride. Water taxis, or 'perahu tambang', are commonly used by residents for mobility and can also be used by visitors for a small fee. Boat tours are also available, offering a closer look at the villages and the chance to see proboscis monkeys in their natural habitat.

Frequently asked questions