Creating An Austrian Bustle: A Step-By-Step Guide To Sewing

An Austrian bustle is a type of bustle that is created with a series of ribbons sewn on the inside of a dress that can be pulled tightly together to bustle the gown down the centre back. This style is inspired by Austrian theatre curtains and is relatively easy to use and sew when compared to other bustle styles. It is similar to ruching and looks great on A-line and fit-and-flare silhouettes. To make an Austrian bustle, you will need to sew metal eyes along the back and princess seam lines at regular intervals. Then, thread a ribbon through the eyes and knot it at the bottom eye. Pulling on the top of the row of eyes will gather the seams and create a drape at the hem that can be set at the desired height by knotting the ribbon to the top eye.

Choosing the right fabric

When choosing the right fabric for your Austrian bustle, there are a few key factors to consider. Firstly, the weight and type of fabric are important. If your dress is made from lightweight fabric, an over bustle may be a better option, as it is simpler and less likely to weigh down the dress. Austrian bustles work well with fabrics that are more simple, such as silk crepe, or Satin Organza, as seen in an example from Leanna Studios.

If you are working with a heavier fabric, you will need to select a stronger tape to support the weight of the dress. The tape can be purchased in different weights, depending on the weight of your dress. A heavy dress will require a firm tape, while a lightweight dress can use a sheer tape. The type of cord you use is also important; it needs to be strong enough to support the weight of the dress, or you risk a "bustle fail" as described by a user on PatternReview.com.

Another factor to consider is the colour and style of your fabric. If your dress has a sheer outer layer, you may want to use a coloured ribbon that complements the colour of the dress, or the flowers, bridesmaid dresses, or groom's tie. This will turn the bustle into a decorative feature. Alternatively, you can use a sheer organza ribbon to match the fabric of your dress. If your dress has beading, be sure to test the strength of the ribbon first.

Lastly, the construction of your dress will impact the type of fabric you choose. If your dress has horizontal bands, your bustle may end up looking more like a Roman shade than an Austrian shade. In this case, you may need to add vertical tape to the horsehair, and run the cording through this.

Using hooks, eyes, buttons, loops, and ribbons

To create an Austrian bustle, you can use vertical rows of tape with loops or rings sewn onto them at regular intervals. Then, thread a ribbon or cord through the rings and adjust the gathers by pulling on the cord to create the desired effect. You can also attach the cord to the rings or loops and tie it off at the top. Here are some detailed instructions on how to use hooks, eyes, buttons, loops, and ribbons for this project:

Hooks and Eyes:

Hooks and eyes are ideal for creating inconspicuous and secure closures. Place the hook on the underside of the right side of the fabric, typically about 1/8 inch away from the edge. Use a needle and thread to secure the hook with a few stitches, then repeat the process to attach the eye on the left side, ensuring they align properly.

Buttons:

Buttons can be sewn on using a basic needle and thread. Double the thread for added strength if you have enough length, and create a knot at the end. Starting from the back, bring the needle to the front where the button will be centered and create an "X" anchor. Position the button on this "X" and sew it securely by passing the needle through the buttonholes and fabric. Finish by creating a shank and tying off the thread at the back.

Loops and Ribbons:

Loops can be created by folding over a length of ribbon or fabric and sewing along the edge. Decide on the placement of your loops, whether they will be sewn directly onto the fabric or attached to tape first. Sew the loops securely, ensuring they can bear the weight of the dress. Then, thread a ribbon or cord through the loops, adjusting the gathers as needed.

Remember to choose ribbons or cords that are strong enough to support the weight of the dress. You can also use clear or coloured ribbons to make them stand out or blend in as desired.

Creating a drape at the hem

For this style of bustle, you will need to thread a length of ribbon through the eyes, knots can be tied to secure the ribbon at each eye. Pulling on the ribbon will gather the seams, creating a draped effect at the hem. The height of the drape can be adjusted by pulling the ribbon to the desired height and marking the placement of the knot with a dot on the ribbon. This allows for customisation and flexibility in the final look.

The Austrian bustle is a good option for gowns with a lot of fabric to tie up, as it can accommodate multiple fasteners without taking away from the dress itself. It is also a good choice for lightweight dresses, as it can be executed with sheer ribbon and clear or coloured rings to match the fabric. This style is less common than the French and American bustles but is gaining popularity due to its ease of use and elegant draped effect.

Hiding the bustle riggings

If you are concerned about the riggings showing, there are many ways to hide them. For example, you can use lace and beading on the train to position eyes so they seem like part of the lace. Buttons can be purchased that look like the beading that is already on the gown and will blend in, though they are obviously added. If the gown already has satin-covered buttons running down the centre back seam, more of the same buttons can be sewn for the bustle riggings, and guests won't think anything of them even though they are placed along the waist seam.

If there is some decoration already on the train, more can be added to hide bustle points that need to be positioned where there is no decoration. You can also add a small amount of beads and/or lace to cover the bustle points if there are several points and the pattern results in what might normally be seen on a train. However, if the train is totally unadorned, it is strongly advised against trying to cover points with decoration, as this will only serve to bring more attention to them.

It is also important to make the points small and neat so that they are as inconspicuous as possible.

Adding a sash or bow

When adding a sash or bow to an Austrian bustle, there are a few methods you can use to attach it to the dress. Here is a step-by-step guide:

Planning and Preparing the Sash or Bow:

• Decide on the type of sash you want: a fitted sash with a fastening at the back or a bow-tying sash.
• Choose the fabric for your sash. Satin, silk, silk charmeuse, duchess satin, or tulle are all popular choices for bridal sashes.
• Determine the width and length of your sash. Most sashes are 1.5–3 inches wide and range from 80 to 160 inches in length.
• Cut your fabric according to your measurements. For a bow-tying sash, you will need approximately 2.25 meters of fabric for a decent bow and tails.
• If you prefer, you can use a satin ribbon instead of fabric. Choose a high-quality ribbon to avoid puckering and ensure it has a good drape.
• Embellish your sash with trims, fabric flowers, beads, sequins, or other decorative elements if desired.

Attaching the Sash or Bow:

• If your dress has a back zipper, consider using hooks and eyes to attach the sash or bow. Place the hooks on the bow and create small thread loops as the 'eyes' on the dress.
• Alternatively, you can use snaps or safety pins to attach the sash or bow.
• For a more permanent option, you can sew the sash or bow directly onto the dress. Use matching thread and sew by hand or machine to secure it in place.
• If you want the option to detach the sash or bow, consider using decorative or hidden buttons on the dress, with buttonholes in the sash or ribbon.
• Another method is to attach ribbon or fabric loops to the dress and then tie the sash or bow securely through the loops.

Tying the Bow:

• Adjust the sash so that you have equal lengths of fabric on both sides at the waist of the dress.
• Cross one side over the other, forming an "X".
• Create a basic knot by inserting one side underneath the other and pulling to tighten. Ensure it is comfortable and secure.
• Form a loop with one side of the sash, making it the desired size of your bow.
• Wrap the other side of the sash around the loop and pull it through the small opening, similar to tying shoelaces.
• Pull the end through until it forms a second loop, adjusting it to match the size of the first loop.
• Centre and even out the loops, pulling gently to snug the knot.

Now you have a beautifully tied sash bow to complement your Austrian bustle!

Frequently asked questions