Retiring In Bolivia: A Guide To A Relaxing Haven

Bolivia is a landlocked country in South America with a diverse range of landscapes, from crystal lagoons to lush rainforests and mirror-like salt lakes. It is also home to various indigenous cultures and has a predominantly Roman Catholic religion. With a low cost of living, it is a popular choice for retirees, offering a range of climates to suit different tastes. The country has two capital cities, La Paz and Santa Cruz, both of which have affordable rental options. The weather in Bolivia varies depending on the region, with average temperatures ranging from 59°F (15°C) in winter to 72°F (22°C) in summer. The country offers a mix of historic architecture and modern conveniences, including high-speed internet. Bolivia has a democratic, American-style system of government and enjoys a low crime rate. The cost of living in Bolivia is significantly lower than in the US, with groceries and utilities also being much cheaper. The country is also known for its delicious food, which varies across different areas due to the influences of neighbouring countries.

Healthcare

Bolivia's healthcare system is considered poor and struggling, with sanitation, nourishment, and malnutrition among the worst problems in the country. The mortality rate is one of the worst in South America, with 69 deaths out of 1,000 live births. The ratio of hospital beds to patients is also extremely low, at 1.1 per 1,000.

The country's public healthcare system, Caja Nacional de Salud (CNS), provides free or heavily subsidised healthcare services. However, CNS is underfunded, leading to long wait times and overcrowded hospitals with poor sanitation. As a result, most expats opt for private clinics or hospitals, which offer better quality services and improved cleanliness. Private healthcare is more expensive and often more capable of treating serious illnesses.

It is strongly recommended that expatriates obtain adequate medical insurance coverage, either through local or international health insurance plans. Local plans cover the cost of care only in Bolivia, while international plans provide coverage worldwide. Due to the limitations of Bolivia's healthcare system, it is advised that treatment for major conditions and surgeries be sought outside the country.

While there are capable doctors in Bolivia, especially in larger cities, the process of obtaining an appointment can be cumbersome. It is necessary to arrive early in the morning to obtain a "ficha" or ticket, indicating your place in the queue. Wait times can be long, and while some doctors speak English, staff members typically do not. Well-off locals and expats often travel to larger cities like La Paz, Santa Cruz, or even abroad to Argentina or the US for serious medical treatment.

The Bolivian government introduced the Unified Health System (SUS) in 2019, aiming to provide free healthcare to at least 70% of the population. However, this programme has faced funding issues, resulting in understaffed and undersupplied facilities, particularly in rural areas. Therefore, expats seeking medical care are advised to utilise private clinics in major cities.

Visas

There is no formal retiree visa for Bolivia, unlike many other Latin American countries. Instead, you must apply for a Specific Purpose Visa (Visa de Objecto Determinado) as a prelude to a permanent or definitive resident visa. You can do this by filling out an online form and providing the following:

• Criminal history records
• Medical check
• Proof of assets/income (minimum of around $300–$500 per month) with bank account statements
• Application fee (approximately $357)

Once you have received preliminary approval, you must enter Bolivia within 30 days and finish the process at the local immigration office. This temporary residence visa is valid for one or two years and is renewable. After two years in Bolivia, you can apply for permanent residence.

It is worth noting that U.S. citizens must obtain a special tourist visa from a Bolivian consulate or embassy before entering the country. This costs $160, takes a couple of weeks to process, and grants entry for 30 days.

Safety

Bolivia is somewhat safe to visit, but it's important to be aware of potential dangers. Here are some safety considerations for those looking to retire in Bolivia:

Crime

Petty crime, such as theft and pickpocketing, is a common issue in Bolivia, particularly in tourist hotspots, restaurants, shops, and on public transportation. Violent crime is also a concern and has been on the rise in recent years. To minimise the risk of becoming a victim of crime, it is important to remain vigilant and take standard safety precautions, such as keeping valuables secure and being aware of your surroundings.

Transportation

Transportation in Bolivia is generally not considered very safe or reliable. It is advisable to avoid certain areas, such as Coronilla Hill in Cochabamba, due to the presence of drug addicts and alcoholics. Public transport can be unreliable due to common strikes. When using taxis, it is recommended to use reputable companies and to be cautious of scams, such as overcharging or providing incorrect information about fares.

Natural Disasters

The rainy season, especially in mountainous areas, can pose risks for tourists. From November to March, there is an increased likelihood of floods and landslides in these regions.

Scams and Kidnapping

Bolivia has seen cases of kidnapping and scams targeting foreigners. Tourists should be cautious when approached by individuals claiming to be police officers or offering help, as these situations can sometimes be scams. 'Express kidnapping', where victims are held hostage and forced to withdraw money from ATMs, has been reported in certain areas.

Protests and Demonstrations

Protests, marches, and demonstrations can occur in Bolivia with little prior notice. It is important to stay away from these gatherings, remain in a safe place, and follow the instructions of local authorities.

Healthcare

The Bolivian healthcare system is improving, but there are still concerns about understaffing and a lack of supplies. Expatriates and retirees are advised to seek care from private clinics in major cities or consider seeking medical attention outside the country for serious conditions.

While Bolivia offers a low cost of living and beautiful sights, it is important to carefully consider the safety aspects of retiring in this country. By staying informed, taking appropriate precautions, and seeking reliable local advice, retirees can help ensure a safer and more enjoyable experience in Bolivia.

Cost of living

Bolivia is one of the cheapest countries in Latin America and the world. According to Numbeo, a cost-of-living database, the average amount to cover basic, necessary expenses is 49.69% lower than in the U.S. This does not even account for rent, which is 73.56% lower.

A retired couple can live very comfortably in Bolivia for around $1,550 per month, though some couples spend around $1,000 per month. A single person can live on $500 to $800 per month.

• Rent for a two-bedroom centrally located furnished apartment: $200-$400
• Cell phone (Pay-per-minute x2): $1.50
• Transportation (Buses and taxis): $1.45
• Dining out (three nights a week with drinks for two people): $36

The cost of food in Bolivia is very low. A menu del día of soup, an entrée, fruit juice, dessert, and coffee costs less than $2. A steak dinner with all-you-can-eat salad and side dishes, and a few glasses of local wine can cost under $15 with a tip. A dozen eggs cost $1.50, a pound of chicken breast costs $1.50, and a pound of tomatoes costs 50 cents.

Healthcare in Bolivia is free for poorer people, but expats will need to get private health insurance to access the private healthcare system. This can cost around $276 to $300 per month.

The cost of transportation in Bolivia is also very low. One-way airline tickets between cities can cost as little as $27, and taxi rides start at 75 cents.

The cost of entertainment in Bolivia is also low. A delicious four-course lunch at Chifa Thai costs just under $3.

The cost of utilities in Bolivia is also low. Utility costs can be under $50 for everything.

The cost of internet in Bolivia is reasonable. Internet (60 Mbps or more, unlimited data, cable/ADSL) costs around $30 per month.

The cost of consumer goods in Bolivia is also low. A pair of jeans (Levis 501 or similar) costs around $30, a summer dress in a chain store (Zara, H&M, etc.) costs around $30, and a pair of Nike running shoes cost around $60.

Overall, the cost of living in Bolivia is significantly lower than in the U.S. or Europe, making it an attractive destination for retirees.

Transport

Bolivia's rugged topography and poor road conditions can make navigating the country challenging. While the railways were historically important, today, transport in Bolivia is primarily by road and air. Here is what you need to know about transportation if you're considering retiring in Bolivia:

Road Transport

Bolivia has a total of 62,479 km of road distance, with 3,749 km paved and 58,730 km unpaved. Road construction and maintenance are difficult due to the country's geography and limited resources. However, Bolivia does have a small network of 4-lane freeways and connecting paved highways for most major cities.

Public bus transport is the most common way to travel in Bolivia. Buses run frequently and are generally reliable, covering extensive routes throughout the country's major towns and cities. Long-distance journeys are typically serviced by large double-decker buses called "Flotas," which are more comfortable and offer different classes of seats for passengers.

Another option for road transport is to take a taxi. Radio taxis are a safer but more expensive option, while regular taxis are cheaper and can be hailed on the street. It is common for unofficial taxis, which are typically the driver's private cars, to supplement the official ones in major cities.

Air Transport

Aviation is crucial in Bolivia due to its geography, and flying is the best option for covering large distances quickly. Boliviana de Aviacion (BoA) is the national airline, offering daily flights between major cities like La Paz, Santa Cruz, Sucre, and Cochabamba. Internal flight prices range from Bs 350 to Bs 700 for a one-way ticket.

Rail Transport

Rail transport in Bolivia has declined in popularity, and there are now two separate networks: the Eastern network, based in Santa Cruz, and the Western network, based in Oruro. The Western network offers breathtaking scenery, making it a great alternative to the bus ride between La Paz and Uyuni. However, train travel can be unpredictable, with frequent delays and timetable changes.

Cable Car

Bolivia is home to Mi Teleférico, the world's first urban transit network to use cable cars as the primary mode of transportation. This system connects the twin cities of El Alto and La Paz, providing stunning views and improved social mobility.

Frequently asked questions