Ruqayyah Snyder
A wedding dress bustle is a fastener or set of fasteners attached to the back of a dress that lifts the train and prevents it from dragging on the floor. There are several types of bustles, including the French bustle, the American bustle, and the Austrian bustle. The Austrian bustle is created by running a ribbon through a back seam and pulling it to create a ruching effect. This style is more complicated for the seamstress to create but easier for the bride to manage. This article will provide a step-by-step guide on how to make an Austrian bustle.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Satin Organza |
| Technique | Sew metal eyes along the back and princess seam lines at 3" intervals; thread a ribbon through the eyes and knot it at the bottom eye; pull on the top of the row of eyes to create a drape |
| Train | Lifted up off the floor |
| Fasteners | Buttons, ribbons, hooks, eyes, loops |
| Style | Gathering the gown fabric down the middle of the dress at the back, creating a ruching effect |
| Complexity | More complicated to create for the seamstress but easy to use |
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What You'll Learn
Sewing metal eyes and threading ribbon
Firstly, it is important to select the appropriate needle for the task. In this case, a tapestry needle is recommended due to its large eye, which can accommodate the ribbon and prevent wrinkling or folding. A blunt tapestry needle is ideal for most cases, as it can easily pass through the fabric without catching or tearing it.
For the ribbon, it is suggested to use a length of 1/8" ribbon, which can be threaded through the needle. Ensure the ribbon lies flat in the eye of the needle and is not twisted, wrinkled, or folded. If using a cut ribbon, leave it unknotted, with a few extra inches at the end, similar to how embroidery thread is handled.
Next, carefully sew the metal eyes along the desired seam lines, spacing them at regular intervals. In the case of an Austrian bustle, the eyes are typically sewn along the back and princess seam lines. The interval between each eye can vary, with suggestions ranging from 2" to 3" apart, depending on the desired look and the number of tufts or gathers created.
Once the eyes are in place, thread the ribbon through the eyes, creating a continuous length. It is important to ensure that the ribbon remains flat and untwisted throughout this process. After threading, the ribbon can be knotted at the bottom eye to secure it.
Finally, adjust the ribbon to create the desired effect. Pulling on the top of the row of eyes will gather the seams, forming a drape at the hem. The height of the drape can be adjusted by knotting the ribbon to the top eye. This technique allows for customization of the look, ensuring the Austrian bustle is tailored to the wearer's preferences.
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Attaching to the underside of the gown
The Austrian bustle is a good option for gowns with a long train, as the fabric is gathered down the middle of the dress at the back, creating a decorative effect. This style is also the easiest to operate, which is helpful for bridesmaids who may need to adjust the bustle throughout the event.
The under bustle is a good option for brides who want to dance and move freely without worrying about their train. It also helps to prevent the dress from getting dirty, ripped, or stepped on. This style of bustle can be more difficult to execute than an over bustle, so it is important to work with a skilled seamstress or alterations expert.
The process of attaching the bustle to the underside of the gown involves carefully sewing metal eyes or threading ribbons through the back seam at regular intervals, usually 2-3 inches apart. The ribbon is then knotted at the bottom eye, and the fabric is gathered by pulling on the top of the row of eyes, creating a drape at the hem. The height of the drape can be adjusted by knotting the ribbon to the top eye. This process should be done with care to avoid damaging the dress, and it may be necessary to work with the fabric inside out to ensure accurate placement of the fasteners.
Overall, the Austrian bustle is a beautiful and functional option for a wedding gown, providing ease of movement and a decorative touch to the train.
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Creating a ruching effect
The Austrian bustle is a less popular style compared to the traditional French and American bustles, but it is gaining steam. This bustle style is created by sewing a series of ribbons on the inside of the dress. The ribbons are then pulled tightly together to bustle the gown down the centre back of the dress. This style is easy to use, as the bride or bridesmaid only needs to pull and tie the strings to tie up the train. The look is similar to ruching and suits A-line and fit-and-flare silhouettes.
To create a ruching effect, the gown fabric is gathered down the middle of the back of the dress. This can be achieved by sewing metal eyes along the back and princess seam lines at intervals of around 3 inches, making sure to catch both the outer and inner layers of the dress. A length of ribbon is then threaded through the eyes and knotted at the bottom eye. Pulling on the top of the row of eyes gathers the seams to a point, creating a draping effect at the hem. The height of the bustle can be adjusted by knotting the ribbon to the top eye. Alternatively, three or four eyes can be sewn about 2 inches apart in the areas where you want to create tufts, and ribbons can be threaded through and tied separately to create tufts that look like they are sewn.
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Using safety pins and needles
The Austrian bustle is a beautiful style that works best with gowns made of simple, unembellished fabrics. It is more complicated to create but easy to use, and involves running a ribbon through a back seam and pulling it through to create a ruching effect. This style is ideal for embellished gowns as it is easier to operate and less likely to damage the intricate details of the dress.
If you are using safety pins and needles to create an Austrian bustle, here is a step-by-step guide:
Firstly, measure carefully to determine the best bustle locations. Use safety pins to mark or hold the dress fabric as needed. Plan out the placement of the bustle ties and attach a safety pin on top of the fabric wherever your bustle requires a fastening, puncturing only the lining of the dress. Continue until you have laid out all the fastenings.
Next, feed the first safety pin through the fabric of the dress, poking through the outside layer of fabric. Turn the safety pin and feed it back through the dress as close as you can to the original hole. Close the safety pin. Continue this until all of the safety pins are fastened. Wrap medical or sports tape around the head of the pin to prevent it from opening or getting caught on something.
Now, cut ribbon or cord into 4-inch pieces, cutting as many pieces as you have safety pins. Cut the ribbon at an angle so that it does not fray. Tie one ribbon or cord onto each safety pin with a knot.
Finally, decide between buttons, hooks, or ribbon, which may be visually exposed depending on how you design your bustle. Choose appropriately-sized needles and matching or clear thread. If you are using thread, opt for one that matches your dress colour to keep any fixes invisible.
Although safety pins can be used to create a bustle, it is important to note that they may not be sturdy enough to hold the weight of the dress for an extended period. Over time, the weight of the dress will pull against the pin and may leave tears or even rip the pins out, leaving holes in the fabric. Therefore, it is recommended to consult a professional seamstress or alteration shop to create a more durable bustle.
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Making it easy to operate
The Austrian bustle is a great option for brides who want to showcase the intricate details of their wedding gowns. This bustle style is created by gathering the gown fabric down the middle of the dress at the back, resulting in a ruching effect. Not only is it visually appealing, but it is also the easiest to operate, making it a comfortable choice for bridesmaids who may need to assist with the bustle on the wedding day.
To ensure the Austrian bustle is easy to operate, consider the following tips:
Plan Ahead and Choose the Right Style
Before settling on the Austrian bustle, it is important to consider the silhouette and train style of your wedding gown. Consult with an experienced seamstress who can guide you in choosing the most suitable bustle style for your dress. This will ensure that the bustle not only complements the design of your gown but also functions seamlessly during your special day.
Simplify the Process
The Austrian bustle is known for its simplicity, but there are ways to make it even easier to operate. Consider using ribbons as the fasteners for your bustle. Ribbons are a versatile option that can be easily adjusted to create the desired effect. Sew metal eyes or buttons along the back seam of the dress and thread the ribbon through them. By pulling on the ribbon, you can create a beautiful drape at the hem, and the height of the bustle can be adjusted by simply knotting the ribbon accordingly.
Practice and Prepare for Emergencies
It is always a good idea to practice operating the bustle before the wedding day. Familiarize yourself and your bridal party with the process of bustling the dress. This will boost your confidence and ensure that your bridesmaids or Maid of Honor can assist you effortlessly. Additionally, keep a bridal emergency kit handy, including safety pins, a needle and thread, or clear fishing line. These items will come in handy if any last-minute adjustments or quick fixes are needed.
Care and Maintenance
To ensure the longevity of your bustle, proper care and maintenance are essential. After your wedding, consider having a professional clean and preserve your dress, especially if you plan to pass it down to future generations. They can ensure that the bustle and gown are properly cared for and stored, maintaining their condition for years to come.
By following these tips, you can ensure that your Austrian bustle not only looks elegant but also functions flawlessly throughout your wedding day. Remember to work closely with your seamstress, practice with your bridal party, and be prepared for any unexpected adjustments. Enjoy your special day with confidence and grace!
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Frequently asked questions
An Austrian Bustle is a type of bustle used for wedding gowns. It involves running a ribbon through a back seam and pulling it through to create a ruching effect.
An Austrian Bustle is perfect for embellished gowns as it does not damage the intricate details of the wedding gown. It is also the easiest to operate.
An Austrian Bustle is a complicated process and should be left to a professional seamstress. It involves sewing metal eyes along the back and princess seam lines and threading a ribbon through the eyes to create a draping effect.
It is important to note that bustles are susceptible to breaking. They have to support a large amount of heavy fabric, so it is a good idea to have safety pins, a needle and thread, or a clear fishing line on hand for quick fixes.
