
Taro, or Colocasia esculenta, is a staple crop in many Pacific countries, including Fiji, Tonga, Samoa, and New Zealand. Grown as a root crop, Taro is a sweet and starchy vegetable with a wide variety of uses. In this guide, we will explore how to grow Taro in Australia, where the crop is commonly found in coastal areas with rising soil salinity. By understanding the ideal conditions for Taro, Australians can effectively cultivate this important food source and incorporate it into their diets in various delicious ways.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Temperature | Best grown when temperature is above 25°C |
| Frost | Taro does not tolerate frost |
| Watering | Requires consistent watering |
| Soil | Well-drained, rich soil with plenty of organic matter |
| Sunlight | Partial shade, away from direct sunlight |
| Harvesting | Harvest after 6-12 months |
| Storing | Cannot be stored for longer than a month |
| Container | Can be grown in large containers with a minimum capacity of 75 litres |
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What You'll Learn

Taro thrives in warm seasons with temperatures above 25°C
Taro, or Colocasia esculenta, is a root vegetable commonly grown in warm, frost-free climates with temperatures above 25°C. It is a staple crop in many Pacific countries and parts of Asia and is known for its sweet and starchy flavour.
In Australia, Taro thrives in warm, coastal areas with moderate humidity and reliable rainfall, such as coastal New South Wales, South Australia, and south-eastern Western Australia. It prefers a part-shade spot, protected from the hottest afternoon sun, and can even tolerate full sun in tropical climates.
To grow Taro in Australia, prepare the soil by weeding, digging, and adding aged animal manure or compost. Taro grows best in moist, free-draining, well-prepared soil enriched with plenty of organic matter. It requires consistent watering and well-drained, rich soil to thrive.
When planting, place the Taro root pieces or potted plants 60-90 cm apart, with the tubers a few centimetres below the soil surface. Taro can also be grown in large pots or containers with a minimum capacity of 50-75 litres. Keep the plants well-watered throughout the growing season and consider mulching to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
With its preference for warm temperatures above 25°C and sensitivity to frost, Taro is well-suited to Australia's coastal regions and warm seasons, making it a viable crop for gardeners and farmers in suitable climates.
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Taro grows best in well-drained, moist, and rich soil
Taro thrives in warm seasons when temperatures are above 25 degrees, and there is no risk of frost. Taro plants need consistent and regular watering throughout their long growing season. They can tolerate waterlogged soils for short periods. To retain moisture, it is recommended to mulch around the plants.
Taro grows well in partial shade, protected from the hottest afternoon sun. The soil should be prepared by weeding thoroughly, digging it over to loosen it, and adding aged animal manure or compost. Taro plants can be grown in large containers using a good-quality potting mix. Ensure the container is large enough for mature plants, with a minimum volume of 75 litres recommended.
Taro is a root crop grown in the humid tropics and is a staple food in the Pacific. It is also known as Colocasia esculenta and has been cultivated for centuries in Asia, the Pacific Islands, and New Zealand. Taro is relatively pest and disease-free but is susceptible to some issues, including aphids and mealybugs.
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Taro requires consistent watering and fertilisation
To prepare the soil, it should be weeded thoroughly, dug over to loosen it, and enriched with plenty of organic matter such as aged animal manure or compost. Taro prefers rich, water-holding soil with a pH of 5.5–7. To retain moisture, mulch should be applied around the plants.
Fertiliser should be applied two to three times during the growing season. A light sprinkle of Scotts Performance Natural All-Purpose Organic-Based Fertiliser can be applied around each plant 6–8 weeks after planting. Potash is particularly important for taro plants. Potted taro may need to be fertilised more regularly.
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Taro is harvested 7-12 months after planting
Taro is a root crop grown in the humid tropics and is a staple food in many Pacific countries. It is best grown in warm seasons when temperatures are above 25 degrees, and there is no risk of frost. It also needs consistent watering and well-drained, rich soil.
Taro is typically harvested 7-12 months after planting, depending on the variety. You will know it is ready to harvest when the leaves begin to yellow and die back. The crop matures in 9-12 months, and the tubers will slightly lift from the ground. Taro can be harvested by digging up the tubers with a garden fork.
The tubers do not store well and should be eaten fresh within a month of harvesting. They must be cooked before consuming to avoid stomach aches. Young taro leaves can also be harvested and cooked before eating.
To grow taro, you will need to plant the tuber a few centimetres below the soil surface, with each plant spaced 60-90 cm apart and 1.8 m between rows. Taro can be grown in large pots that are at least 50-60 cm deep with the same diameter. Ensure the pot has drainage holes. Taro needs consistent irrigation and well-drained, rich soil with plenty of organic matter.
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Taro is susceptible to pests like aphids and mealybugs
Taro is relatively pest and disease-free. However, like all plants, it is susceptible to some pests, including aphids and mealybugs.
Aphids are small (2-4mm long) sap-sucking insects that congregate on the new shoots or the undersides of leaves. They can cause leaves to wilt or become discoloured, and they also excrete honeydew, which can attract ants and other insect pests. To manage aphids, you can try a few different methods:
- Remove them by spraying them with a garden hose.
- Apply a soap or alcohol spray. You can make your own insecticidal soap by combining one cup of oil (peanut, vegetable, corn, etc.) with one tablespoon of dish soap.
- Encourage predatory insects to your garden, such as ladybirds and lacewings.
- Use a dry paper towel to pick the aphids off the individual taro leaves, then gently crush them and dispose of them in a garbage bag.
- Use a wet paper towel to rub any sap or residue from the leaves to prevent additional aphids or ants from attacking your plant.
- Spray the underside of the leaves in the morning with the high-power setting on your hose until the aphids are removed.
Mealybugs are small (3-6mm long) sap-sucking insects with white, pink, or grey bodies covered in a mealy coating that looks like cotton wool. They can cause leaves to wilt and excrete honeydew, which can attract ants and other pests. Mealybugs can be difficult to control because they feed in secluded parts of plants. To manage mealybugs, you can try the following methods:
- Remove them by wiping the leaves with cotton buds or balls dipped in rubbing alcohol, or a mixture of soapy water.
- Apply a soap or alcohol spray, or an insecticidal soap spray.
- Encourage predatory insects to your garden, such as ladybirds and lacewings. The Cryptolaemus (Cryptolaemus montrouzieri) is a commercially available native ladybird beetle that is known as the 'Mealybug Destroyer'.
- Prevent ants from climbing trees by banding trunks with horticultural glue. This disrupts the symbiotic relationship between ants and mealybugs, reducing their protection and limiting population growth.
- Prune heavily infested foliage and dispose of it. Isolate infected plants and treat them with a suitable insecticide.
- Regularly monitor your plants to ensure Mealybug populations don't explode 'overnight'. Catching an infestation in its early stages makes it much easier to manage.
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Frequently asked questions
Taro is best grown in warm seasons when temperatures are above 25 degrees and there is no risk of frost. The recommended planting time is any time of the year in frost-free areas, and in spring in cold areas.
Taro needs well-drained, moist, and rich soil with plenty of organic matter. The soil should be prepared by removing weeds, digging it over to loosen it, and adding aged animal manure or compost.
Taro is usually ready to harvest 7-12 months after planting, depending on the variety.






































