
Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis spp.) are colourful, long-lasting orchids that are native to tropical forests in Asia. They are one of the easiest orchids to grow indoors and make a lovely addition to any home. In this guide, we will cover everything you need to know about caring for moth orchids in Australia, from potting and repotting to watering and fertilising, so that you can keep your orchids healthy and beautiful all year round.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Light | Bright, indirect light |
| Sunlight | Direct sunlight can burn the plant |
| Temperature | 70-80°F during the day, 60-70°F at night |
| Humidity | 40-60% |
| Potting Mix | Orchid mix, sphagnum moss, orchid bark |
| Pot | Plastic, ceramic, or terracotta with good drainage holes |
| Watering | Water weekly, reduce slightly in winter |
| Repotting | Every one to two years, cut off dead roots |
| Fertilizer | High-potassium liquid orchid food, follow manufacturer's instructions |
| Pruning | Cut the flowered stem just below the last flower |
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What You'll Learn

Potting and repotting
Moth orchids can be grown in plastic, ceramic, or terracotta pots, as long as the pot has excellent drainage holes. A free-draining mix made of coarse bark is ideal for the plants, though you can also use sphagnum moss. Bark alone tends to dry out very quickly, while moss stays wetter for longer, so orchids planted in bark should be watered more often. You can also use a mix of the two to strike a balance.
When repotting, gently remove the moth orchid from its existing pot and shake away some of the old mix, especially if it's mouldy or rotten. Cut off any dead roots—these may be brown, shrivelled, mushy, or hollow. Shorten the remaining healthy roots to about 12 cm (5 inches). Healthy roots are plump, firm, and silvery-white.
Using the same pot or a slightly larger one, part-fill the pot with fresh orchid potting mix. Place the plant's root ball into the pot and gently backfill around the roots with the mix. Water in well to settle the mix around the roots, but avoid wetting the leaves.
Moth orchids can be repotted at any time of year, as long as the roots are active and have green tips. However, you should never repot the orchid while it is flowering, as this will cause immense shock. Repotting should be done every one to two years, or every few years when the planting medium has started to deteriorate.
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Watering and humidity
Moth orchids are native to humid tropical forests and need a humid environment to thrive. They prefer daytime temperatures of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures of 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Cooler nights of 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the fall help initiate flower development. They require a relative humidity of 40 to 60 percent.
To increase humidity, place the potted orchid on a tray or saucer filled with pebbles and water. The bottom of the pot should be kept above the waterline. The water will evaporate from the tray and increase the humidity around the plant. Alternatively, you can mist the plant on very hot days or in the summer to increase humidity. Moth orchids can also be grown in brightly lit humid bathrooms, which provide the necessary humidity.
When it comes to watering, it is crucial to remember that moth orchids do not tolerate wet roots. Always allow excess water to drain away and never let the roots sit in water, as this can lead to root rot. Water your moth orchid regularly, allowing the planting material to dry out slightly between waterings. The frequency of watering will depend on the type of planting material you are using. If using a bark medium, water well and then allow it to dry slightly before watering again. Bark tends to dry out quickly, so orchids planted in it will need to be watered more often. On the other hand, sphagnum moss stays wetter for longer, so you won't need to water your orchid as frequently.
To check if your orchid needs watering, gently dig your finger into the top few centimetres of the planting material. If it feels dry, it's time to water your orchid. Water your orchid thoroughly until water comes through the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. It is recommended to use tepid water, preferably rainwater. When watering, be careful not to splash the leaves or get water into the crown of the plant.
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Light and temperature
Moth orchids thrive in bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight can burn the plant, so it is best to place them in a warm position that receives plenty of indirect light. Ideal spots include east-facing and north-facing windows, while plants in south-facing windows will need to be shaded with a sheer curtain. If the area is poorly lit, fluorescent lighting can be used to supplement the natural light. Place the fluorescent fixture 6 to 8 inches above the plants and keep the lights on for 12 to 16 hours each day.
Moth orchids are native to humid tropical forests and can be grown outdoors in tropical climates. In cooler areas, they are best grown indoors. They prefer daytime temperatures of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures of 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Cooler nighttime temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit in autumn help initiate flower development. Avoid exposing the plants to temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
To increase humidity, place the potted orchid on a saucer of pebbles and add water to the saucer without letting the roots of the plant touch the water. Alternatively, the plant can be placed in a warm, brightly lit bathroom to increase humidity.
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Fertilising and feeding
Moth orchids are heavy feeders and respond well to fertiliser. To encourage strong growth and flowering, feed your moth orchid lightly but regularly during the growing season using a specific orchid fertiliser. However, regular feeding every time you water can lead to a build-up of potentially harmful salts in the compost. Therefore, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions when using fertiliser, as overfeeding can be damaging rather than beneficial.
Moth orchids require a relative humidity of 40 to 60 percent. You can increase humidity by standing the pot on a tray of pebbles and filling the tray with water so that the plant is in a humid zone. The pebbles keep the pot from sitting in water, which could lead to rotting or fungal problems. You can also mist the plant on very hot days to increase humidity.
Moth orchids are typically grown in a bark mixture that includes sphagnum moss or other materials to help retain water. Bark alone tends to dry out very quickly, but it can also hold too much moisture in the bottom of the pot. Therefore, it is important to allow the planting material to dry out slightly between waterings, but it should not be left dry for extended periods of time. When the bark or moss is dry to the touch and the pot is light, water your orchid thoroughly until water comes through the drainage hole in the bottom of your pot.
If your moth orchid is not flowering, you can stimulate it by cutting back the old stalk after all its blooms have fallen, just above the second node (joint) beneath the spent flowers. A new flowering side-shoot will often form. You can also encourage your moth orchid to produce keikis (mini clones) by applying 'keiki paste' (a specialist hormone preparation) to the nodes on spent flower stems.
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Common issues and troubleshooting
Moth orchids are generally easy to care for, but there are some common issues to look out for. One of the most frequent problems is overwatering, which can lead to root rot and other fungal diseases. To avoid this, only water your orchid when the orchid mix has started to dry out slightly, and make sure your pot has excellent drainage. If you're using sphagnum moss, be extra cautious as it holds more water than bark.
Another issue is leaf yellowing, which can be caused by various factors such as overwatering, lack of water, too much direct sunlight, extreme temperatures, excessive fertilizing, or pest infestations. Scorched leaf tips and yellowing are signs that your plant is getting too much sun. If multiple leaves are yellowing, particularly from the centre of the plant, it could be a more serious problem.
Moth orchids are susceptible to pests and diseases, including common houseplant pests like aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies. Most pests can be removed with a stream of water, insecticidal soap, or neem oil. In terms of diseases, root rot is common, as well as phytophthora (black spots on leaves), botrytis, leaf algae, and petal blight.
If your orchid is not flowering, it may be due to inadequate light. Orchids need bright, indirect light, so try placing them near a south- or east-facing window. If natural light is insufficient, use a grow light with a fluorescent tube.
Finally, if you're attempting to propagate your moth orchid by replanting a keiki, make sure it's at least a year old and has its own roots before carefully removing it from the parent plant. Mist the baby plant daily and provide a humid environment to help it establish.
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