The Australian Leather Process: From Hide To Homegrown Style

how is leather made in australia

Leather is a material made from animal skin that has been treated to prevent putrification. In Australia, leather is made from the skins of cows, calves, kangaroos, lambs, and sheep, among other animals. The process of treating animal skin to make leather is called tanning, and it has been conducted for thousands of years. Today, sustainability and ethical production methods are at the forefront of the leather industry in Australia, with companies like Harrison Australia and FJackets advocating for the ethical sourcing and treatment of animal skins.

Characteristics Values
Materials Animal skin, such as cowhide, kangaroo, lambskin, sheepskin, pigskin, kidskin, goatskin, deerskin, buffalo hide, camel hide, fish skin, ostrich skin, crocodile skin, snake skin, lizard skin, reindeer skin, zebra skin
Tanning agents Chromium salts, vegetable tanning
Process Removing impurities, hairs, fat, and proteins; tanning; washing and drying; conditioning; cutting; sewing; lining addition; attaching features
Products Boots, bags, car seats, jackets, wallets, belts, luggage, accessories, sports shoes, gloves, souvenirs
Environmental and ethical issues Animal welfare, animal cruelty, sustainability
Alternatives Synthetic versions like polyurethane or PVC-based leathers, mushroom leather, pineapple leather, lab-grown leather, recycled leather

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Animal skins used for leather in Australia

In Australia, leather is made from the skins of various animals, including cows, calves, kangaroos, lambs, sheep, pigs, goats, and even exotic species such as crocodiles and snakes. The process of converting animal skins into leather involves tanning, which treats the skin to make it resistant to putrefaction.

Cowhide leather is commonly used in Australia for its toughness and durability. It is often vegetable-tanned, using a protective layer made from tree bark, to enhance its appearance and feel. Calfskin is also sought-after in the leather industry due to its softness and delicateness, despite the ethical concerns surrounding the use of unborn or newborn calves.

Kangaroo leather is another prominent material in Australia, known for its toughness, durability, and lightweight nature. Millions of kangaroos are slaughtered annually, and their skins are used for sports shoes, gloves, accessories, and souvenirs. However, the commercial killing of kangaroos has raised ethical concerns, as thousands of dependent joeys suffer as collateral damage.

Sheep and lambs are also a source of leather in Australia. Shearling, a term for the skin of a yearling sheep or lamb shorn before slaughter, is tanned with the wool still attached. Additionally, pigs, goats, and various exotic species contribute to the diverse range of animal skins used for leather production in Australia.

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The tanning process

Leather tanning has been conducted since ancient times, with evidence it was being done some 5,500 years ago. The process of tanning treats animal skin to make it resistant to putrification. The place where animal skins are tanned is called a tannery, and the people conducting the work are called tanners.

Nowadays, sustainability and ethical production methods are at the forefront of the industry. Vegetable tanning is one such method, acting as a protective layer and made up predominantly of tree bark.

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Environmental and ethical concerns

Leather is a contentious topic when it comes to environmental and ethical concerns. While leather is often described as a byproduct of the meat industry, it is more accurately a co-product. Skins are extremely valuable to the meat and dairy industries, and leather sales subsidise meat production. Without the profits from leather sales, the meat and dairy industries would suffer huge economic losses.

The livestock industry is responsible for nearly 15% of human-induced greenhouse gas emissions and contributes significantly to deforestation. In particular, cattle ranching is responsible for 80% of deforestation in the Amazon, contributing to biodiversity loss, increased fire risk, and soil erosion.

The processing of leather also impacts the environment. Large quantities of water and chemicals are required to tan leather, and the chemicals used are often not biodegradable and contaminate local water sources. In addition, the leather industry relies on vulnerable workers who receive poverty wages and are exposed to hazardous working conditions. Human harm is rampant through all stages of leather production, and Indigenous communities are particularly susceptible to human rights infringements on their land.

In Australia, animals raised for leather and food are not given the same legal protection as companion animals or pets. They may undergo painful medical procedures without anaesthetic, such as castration, de-horning, and mulesing.

Some consumers are increasingly concerned about the environmental and ethical toll of leather and are seeking alternatives. However, many synthetic or vegan "leathers" are made of fossil fuel-derived plastics that do not biodegrade.

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Leather alternatives

The process of leather tanning has been conducted since ancient times, with evidence of it being done some 5,500 years ago. Today, leather is everywhere, from boots to car seats. Most leather products in Australia are made from the hides of cows, but virtually any skin can be tanned, including lambskin, sheepskin, pigskin, kangaroo, and even exotic hides like crocodile, snake, and zebra.

However, the leather industry has come under scrutiny for its questionable treatment of animals, with concerns about the impact of fabric choices on animals, workers, and the environment. As a result, innovators worldwide are developing leather alternatives that are more sustainable and address the welfare issues associated with animal-derived hides.

One alternative to animal-derived leather is polyurethane (PU) leather, which is the most common alternative to cow skin leather today. Vegan leather is also made from polyurethane or PVC, but it is not the same as real leather and is not biodegradable.

Other innovative leather alternatives are being developed using plant-based materials, such as fruit-based leather made from unsold mangoes combined with bio-oils, pineapple leaves, and plant-based oils and waxes. These alternatives are more sustainable, with a reduced environmental impact, and some are completely plastic-free.

Additionally, materials derived from mycelium, the branching, root-like part of fungi, are being used to create leather alternatives. This method is efficient and far more sustainable, as mycelium can be grown in just a few days, as opposed to the years it takes to raise cattle.

Another alternative, Treekind, is made from sustainable wood sources like wasted Christmas trees and fallen wood and leaves. It is made up of dried cactus powder, backed by woven material, and coated with polyurethane for durability. This alternative uses significantly less water than cow skin leather production and is fully recyclable.

Furthermore, some companies are creating leather alternatives from the latex sap of shiringa trees, which grow wild in the Amazon and are harvested by Indigenous communities. This material is water-resistant, supports the protection of the Amazon rainforest, and uplifts Indigenous communities and culture.

While these alternatives offer more sustainable and ethical options, it is important to note that many of them still rely on some element of plastic or fossil-fuel-derived materials for durability, and the industry has been slow to adopt these new materials due to concerns about their durability and longevity.

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Leather product care

Leather is a delicate material that requires special treatment. With proper care, your leather products can last for decades. Here are some tips to help you care for your leather items:

Cleaning and Conditioning

Leather products are susceptible to dirt, stains, and scratches. To maintain their shape, strength, and appeal, they require specialised cleaning and conditioning. It is important to clean your leather items regularly to remove grease, stains, soil, and other forms of dirt. After cleaning, conditioning your leather items will help replenish moisture and protect the material.

Waterproofing

While waterproofing may seem like a good idea to protect your leather items, it is generally not recommended. Waterproofing products seal the leather's pores, causing it to dry out. Additionally, waterproofing will prevent you from conditioning your leather items in the future.

Removing Stains

When dealing with stains, it is important to act quickly. Blot excess liquid or spillage immediately with a clean, absorbent cloth or sponge. For butter, oil, or grease stains, wipe off the excess with a clean, dry cloth and leave it alone as the spot should dissipate into the leather. For ink stains, apply Ink Remover to the stain, wait 30 seconds, and then wipe away the stain and excess Ink Remover with a clean, dry cloth. Repeat as necessary.

Caring for Nubuck Leather

Nubuck leather has a unique finish, as it is tanned, dyed, and then sanded to expose the fibre structure. To care for nubuck leather, use specialised products like the Nubuck Care Kit. Gently hand or machine wash in warm water with mild liquid hand soap or enzyme-free washing liquids. Do not dry in direct sunlight or artificial heat, and always allow Nubuck leather to dry slowly.

General Tips

  • Avoid using heat guns, hairdryers, or other heat sources to dry wet leather areas.
  • Always test any cleaning method on a small, hidden area first to ensure it does not damage the leather.
  • Avoid using saddle soaps, oils, abrasives, furniture polish, varnish, or ammonia water, as these may harm the finish and permanently damage the leather.
  • Use a leather protector or conditioner regularly to nourish the leather, retain softness, and protect it from future stains.

By following these tips, you can ensure that your leather products remain in excellent condition for years to come.

Frequently asked questions

Leather is the skin of an animal which has been treated to make it resistant to putrification through the process of tanning.

Tanning is the process of treating animal skin to make it resistant to putrification. Various chromium salts can be used as tanning agents and have been widely used since the industrial revolution. The place where animal skins are tanned is called a tannery, and the people conducting the work are called tanners.

Most leather products in Australia are made from the hides of cows. Other commonly used leathers are lambskin, sheepskin, pigskin, kidskin, and goatskin. Australia also sources leather from kangaroos, which is referred to as 'K-leather' in the industry.

There are several ethical concerns surrounding the leather industry in Australia, including the slaughter of iconic animals such as kangaroos, and the sourcing of leather from countries with poor records of animal cruelty, such as China and India.

There are several alternatives to traditional leather, including synthetic versions like polyurethane or PVC-based leathers, and innovations such as mushroom leather, pineapple leather, and lab-grown leather, which offer cruelty-free and sustainable options.

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