Bolivia's Carnaval: A Colorful, Cultural Extravaganza

Bolivia's Carnaval de Oruro is a unique festival that combines Catholic symbolism with ancient indigenous traditions. The festival is held annually in the mining town of Oruro, located in the stark Altiplano region of Bolivia, and features spectacular folk dances, extravagant costumes, crafts, and lively music. The festival has its roots in the pre-Hispanic era when the town was called Uru Uru and was a religious destination for the Andean Aymara and Quechua people. Over time, the festival has evolved to incorporate both Catholic and indigenous rituals, with the latter often hidden behind Christian icons. The Carnaval de Oruro is a celebration of the struggle between good and evil and features devil dances, colourful costumes, and traditional music and dances.

The festival's history and its origins in the ancient town of Uru Uru

The Bolivian festival of Carnaval, or Carnival, has its roots in the ancient town of Uru Uru, now known as Oruro. Long before Spanish settlement, Uru Uru was a religious site for the indigenous Aymara and Quechua people of the Andes. Here, locals would worship Andean deities and celebrate Ito, a religious festival from which today's Carnival is thought to descend.

In 1606, the Spanish established the town of Oruro on land already being mined by the indigenous population. The Spanish banned the Uru Uru rituals and traditions, but the locals continued to observe them under the guise of Catholic rituals. Over time, the Andean rituals morphed into Catholic observances, resulting in the Carnival celebration we know today.

Today, Carnival is a complex blend of Catholic and ancient pagan expression, reflecting the diverse cultural history of Oruro. The festival features folk dances, extravagant costumes, crafts, music, and continuous partying. It is a celebration of the struggle between good and evil and honours the Virgin of the Socavón (also known as the Virgin of Candelaria), who is worshipped as the patron saint by faithful miners.

The Carnival of Oruro is considered one of the most famous festivals in South America, attracting crowds of up to 400,000 people annually. In 2008, it was declared a "Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity" by UNESCO, recognising its cultural and historical significance.

The Virgin of the Mineshaft and the miraculous image of the Virgin Mary

The Virgin of the Mineshaft, also known as the Virgen del Socavón or the Virgen de la Candelaria, is a central figure in the annual Carnival of Oruro in Bolivia. The festival, which blends Catholic and indigenous traditions, is held in honour of this miraculous image of the Virgin Mary.

According to legend, in 1756, a mural of the Virgin Mary appeared in a mineshaft in what was then the richest silver mine in Oruro. The Virgin Mary, dressed in a red robe and a blue mantle, was depicted holding a flaming candle. This image appeared beside the body of Chiru-Chiru, a notorious bandit who stole from the rich and gave to the poor. After being mortally wounded during a robbery attempt, Chiru-Chiru retreated to the mineshaft to repent for his sins before dying. When his body was discovered, the image of the Virgin was found on the wall beside him.

To commemorate this miracle, the Sanctuary of the Mineshaft (Sanctuario del Socavón) was built in 1781 to house the miraculous image. The site became known as the Church of the Mineshaft (Sanctuaria del Socavon), and the image was named the Virgin of the Mineshaft, or Virgen del Socavón. The Virgin del Socavón is also referred to as the Virgin of Candlemas, or Virgen de la Candelaria, as her feast day was originally celebrated on February 2, the festival of Candlemas.

The Carnival of Oruro is held in honour of the Virgin of the Mineshaft and combines Catholic and indigenous rituals. The festival features spectacular folk dances, extravagant costumes, music, and continuous partying. One of the most important elements of the Carnival is the procession to the Church of the Mineshaft, where revellers pay their respects to the Virgin. The Carnival also includes a three-day, three-night parade with over 48 groups of folk dancers, 10,000 musicians in 150 bands, and up to 400,000 visitors. The parade is led by a colourful representation of the Archangel San Miguel, followed by iconic devils, bears, pumas, monkeys, and condors—all symbols of Uru mythology.

The Virgin of the Mineshaft is a testament to the syncretism of Catholic and indigenous beliefs in Bolivia. By incorporating the Virgin into the Carnival of Oruro, the festival became a means to honour both the Christian Virgin Mary and the indigenous deities and traditions that preceded colonisation.

The devil dances and their symbolic meaning

The devil dances, or "Diablada", are a key part of the Carnaval de Oruro, which takes place in the Bolivian town of Oruro. The Diablada is a dance representing the victory of good over evil, with the Archangel Michael defeating Lucifer and his army of devils. The dance has its roots in the pre-Columbian rituals of the Uru people, who worshipped a god named Tiw, which later became associated with the devil due to Spanish influence and syncretism.

The devil dancers wear elaborate, technicolor masks with horns, as well as red-and-white boots decorated with dragons and serpents, velvet capes sewn with silver thread, coins, and mirrors. Their masks are designed to be terrifying, with popping eyes and jagged teeth. The costumes are heavy and expensive, retailing at several hundred dollars each.

The Diablada is just one part of the larger Carnaval de Oruro, which features over 20,000 dancers and 10,000 musicians and lasts for 20 hours. The festival is a blend of indigenous Uru traditions, Catholic symbolism, and pagan rituals, reflecting the complex cultural history of Bolivia. It is a tribute to the Virgen del Socavón, the patron saint of miners, and is considered a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

The devil dances are a unique and striking aspect of the Carnaval de Oruro, combining indigenous mythology, Christian iconography, and Spanish colonial influence. They are a vivid representation of the ongoing struggle between good and evil and a way to honour the Virgin Mary and the ancient Andean deities.

The fusion of indigenous and European traditions

The Carnaval de Oruro is a unique fusion of indigenous Andean and European traditions. The festival is held in the Bolivian mining town of Oruro, which sits at a dizzying altitude of 3,700 metres in the Altiplano region of the country.

Long before the Spanish settlement, the town of Uru Uru (the pre-Hispanic name for Oruro) was a religious destination for the indigenous Aymara and Quechua people of the Andes. The locals worshipped Andean deities and celebrated the religious festival of Ito, from which today's Carnival is thought to have originated.

In 1606, the Spanish founded Oruro, using the land as a base to obtain the area's rich minerals. The indigenous population was used as labourers for the Europeans, and their religion was encroached upon with the introduction of Christianity. The Spanish priests tried to ban the Uru Uru rituals and traditions, but the locals continued to observe them under the guise of Catholic rituals. They performed their traditional dances and music in line with Catholic holidays and transformed their festivals into Catholic rituals. By the mid-18th century, Andean rituals had morphed into Catholic observances, giving birth to the religious celebration of Carnaval de Oruro.

After Bolivia gained independence from Spain in 1825, Oruro's aristocracy distanced themselves from the indigenous population, and separate Carnival celebrations were held. However, with the rise of socialism in the 1940s, the upper class came to view indigenous culture and lifestyle as the ideal model for a well-established society. They formed their own dance groups based on the traditions of the Andean culture, and the two separate Carnival celebrations were combined into one.

Today, the Carnaval de Oruro is a complex blend of Catholic ideals and ancient pagan expression, reflecting the diverse cultural history of Oruro. The festival tells the story of the Spanish conquest of the Aymara and Quechua people of Bolivia, celebrating the battle of good versus evil and honouring the Virgin of the Mineshaft. The costumes and performance themes reflect the different aspects of Oruro's cultural history, making it one of the most impressive and unique festivals in all of Bolivia and South America.

The water fights and other festivities that take place during the final days of celebration

The final days of celebration in the Bolivian Carnaval are known as Dia del Agua (Day of Water). This is a massive water bomb fight, with tourists as the primary target! It is nearly impossible to stay dry during this time, with water balloons, buckets of water, and spray foam all used to bombard onlookers.

The Monday after Ash Wednesday marks the culmination of the festivities. However, the celebrations don't end there, with three more days of partying until Ash Wednesday itself. During these final days, the sound of las bandas, or traditional folk songs, fills the air. Locals and tourists alike drink Bolivian beer and chicha, a fermented corn beverage.

The Carnaval is a unique fusion of indigenous and European traditions, with Catholic icons and rituals intertwining with ancient Andean customs. The festival is a representation of the struggle between good and evil, with the Archangel Michael leading an army of angels to victory. The festival also venerates the Virgin of the Socavón (cave), also known as the Virgin of Candelaria. Miners pray to her as their patron saint. The Catholic figures are combined with indigenous interpretations, creating a fascinating cultural fusion.

The Carnaval is a colourful, rhythmic spectacle, with dance, music, streamers, and confetti. Children dress up in costumes and join the parades, with entertainment provided by the pepino chorizo (a folkloric clown), the jukumari bear, and other carnival figures. The festival is a true reflection of Bolivian culture and history, with different regions and communities coming together to showcase their unique music, dances, and costumes.

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