Leslie Massey
The 1950s in Australia was a time of prosperity and style, marking a transition from the conservatism of the 1940s to a freer, more informal style. Fashion in Australia during this time was heavily influenced by American popular culture, including film, music, and movie stars, especially rock & roll. This shift in influence from British to American culture was one of the most significant changes in Australian society since World War II. The 1950s also saw a focus on Australian designers and Australian-made fashion, with new synthetic materials like polyester revolutionising the fashion industry. Women's fashion in particular emphasised an exaggerated feminine silhouette, with foundation garments, wasp waists, and full skirts. Stiletto heels and pointed toe shoes also made their first appearance during this time, becoming a trademark of the decade.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Cultural influence | Shift from British to American influence |
| Fashion trends | Stiletto heels, pointed toe shoes, pillbox hats, floral patterns, pencil or shirtwaist dresses, stocking, gloves, halter dresses |
| Fashion ideals | Hyper-femininity, wasp waists, hourglass silhouette, accentuated bustlines |
| Synthetic materials | Polyester |
| Fashion inspiration | Vogue magazines, movie stars, rock & roll music |
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What You'll Learn
The influence of Dior's 'New Look'
Christian Dior's "New Look" was a major shift in post-World War II fashion and had a significant impact on Australian fashion in the 1950s. Dior's collection, launched in 1947, was a dramatic departure from the austerity of wartime styles, with its lavish use of fabric and emphasis on femininity. The "New Look" featured wasp waists, accentuated bustlines, and full skirts, creating an exaggerated feminine silhouette. This style was a reaction against the rationing of fabric during the war and the austerity of the Great Depression, and it kick-started the fabric industry and the post-war European economy.
Dior's "New Look" influenced the Australian fashion industry in several ways. Firstly, it sparked a trend for foundation garments that accentuated the waist and bust, such as corsetry and girdles. These garments offered more freedom of movement than traditional corsets and were marketed for their practicality in activities like golf and dancing. Secondly, Dior's use of voluminous skirts and excessive fabric influenced the designs of Australian swimwear, frocks, and bridal gowns. By the mid-1950s, Australian fashion shows featured cotton fabric fashioned into these styles, showcasing a shift towards Australian-made fashion and designers while still drawing on European influences.
The "New Look" also influenced the rise of tailoring for women in the 1950s, with stylish two-piece suits that idealized the female form. Jackets featured rounded shoulders, tight bodices, and fitted skirts that accentuated the hips. Dior's influence can also be seen in the emergence of stiletto heels, which first appeared in a Dior fashion show in 1952. These shoes, with their pointed toes and metal-tipped heels, became a trademark of the decade, despite sometimes being banned from certain places due to the damage they caused to floors.
While Dior's "New Look" was a significant influence, it was not the only silhouette of the era. By the mid-1950s, there was a shift towards a more informal style, with some women rebelling against the pristine, immaculate look often associated with Grace Kelly. Instead, they drew inspiration from style icons like Leslie Caron and Audrey Hepburn, who favoured simple black sweaters, flat shoes, and short haircuts. This continental alternative was described as chic and had many followers seeking to embrace a more modern aesthetic.
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The shift from British to American influence
The 1950s in Australia was a time of significant cultural shift, with the country moving away from British influence towards American popular culture. This change was one of the most notable shifts in Australian society since World War II. American films, music, and fashion became wildly popular, and the Australian way of life, entertainment, spending, and dressing were all rapidly altered.
Before World War II, Britain had a strong influence on Australian culture. Most Australian citizens were either born in Britain or had British descendants. However, after the war, American and British influences impacted Australia, particularly in the 1950s. This was also a time when it became more affordable for Australians to purchase music products like radios and vinyl records.
The 1950s marked a transition from the conservatism and formality of the 1940s to a freer, more informal style. During this time, it became more acceptable for men to dress "for show," and both sexes became more fashion-conscious. The focus of fashion shifted to Australian designers and Australian-made clothing, with cotton fabric fashioned into swimwear, frocks, and bridal gowns.
The "New Look" by Christian Dior, which emphasised a tiny "wasp" waist, an accentuated bustline, and an exaggerated feminine silhouette, also influenced Australian fashion in the 1950s. This style was out of reach for most Australian women, but it sparked a demand for foundation garments that offered more freedom of movement than traditional corsetry. Additionally, the stiletto heel made its first appearance in the 1950s, with pointed-toe shoes called "Winkle pickers" becoming popular by the mid-1950s.
While some Australian men adopted the punk style inspired by American films, others leaned towards British styles, such as the "teddy boy" look with narrow "drainpipe" trousers and long jackets. Overall, the 1950s in Australia was a time of changing fashion influences, with a mix of European, American, and British styles shaping the country's unique fashion sense.
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The emergence of stiletto heels
The development of stiletto heels can be attributed to advancements in technology, particularly the use of new materials and techniques initially intended for aircraft carriers. The application of aluminium and injection moulding to fuse metal and plastic enabled the creation of taller and thinner heels. The key innovation was supporting the arch of the foot, reducing pressure on the toes and heel, resulting in a shoe that moved with the body.
Salvatore Ferragamo, Roger Vivier, and André Perugia are often credited with pioneering the stiletto during this period. However, some historians also acknowledge the contributions of French designer Charles Jourdan. By the mid-1950s, stiletto heels had become ubiquitous, with pointed-toe styles known as "Winkle pickers" reaching heights of up to five inches. The iconic four-inch Ferragamo stilettos, popularised by Marilyn Monroe, exemplified the allure and glamour associated with this style.
In Australia, the 1950s witnessed a shift from British influences to American ones. American films, music, and fashion held a strong influence over Australian culture. This included the growing popularity of stiletto heels, which symbolised prosperity and a departure from the conservatism of the 1940s. While stiletto heels originated from European and American innovations, Australian designers began to take centre stage by 1955, showcasing their unique interpretations of fashion trends, including the integration of stiletto heels into their designs.
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The hyper-femininity trend
The 1950s in Australia was a time of luxury and style, with a particular focus on hyper-femininity. This decade marked a shift from the conservatism and restraint of the 1940s to a freer, more informal style. It was a time when women began to spend more on fashion and demanded new trends, inspired by movie stars and music, especially rock and roll. This started an evolution in the fashion industry, with new synthetic materials like polyester being used due to Australia's booming economy. These new fabrics were easy to care for and non-creasing, making them popular choices for women's clothing.
The 1950s saw a return to an exaggerated feminine silhouette, with foundation garments, wasp waists, and accentuated bustlines popularized by Christian Dior's 'New Look' collection in 1947. This collection, which included full skirts and tiny waists, was a reaction to the austerity of the Great Depression and war rationing. While Dior's couture garments were unaffordable for most Australian women, the style influenced local designers and Australian-made fashion.
During this time, women sought to emulate movie stars like Marilyn Monroe, who popularized the "halter dress" with a fitted bodice and straps around the neck that accentuated the bosom. Pencil or shirtwaist dresses, stockings, gloves, and hats were also popular choices for women in the 1950s. Floral, polka dot, or cherry-printed fabrics were favored for day wear. Women's shoes also became more fashionable, with the stiletto heel making its first appearance in the 1950s. By the mid-1950s, pointed-toe shoes called "Winkle pickers" with stiletto heels of up to 5 inches were common.
The 1950s was also a time when both sexes became much more fashion-conscious. Men started dressing 'for show', and hats became a major fashion accessory for women. The pillbox hat and hats with floral patterns were particularly trendy. Red lipstick also became a beauty essential, completing the hyper-feminine look of the time.
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The popularity of hats
The 1950s in Australia was a time of cultural shift from British influence to American. This change influenced the way people dressed, with both men and women becoming more fashion-conscious. Hats, in particular, became a significant accessory for women, with the pillbox hat and hats with floral patterns being especially popular. The pillbox hat, first popularised by Balenciaga, became the defining hat of the 1950s and continued to be fashionable in the following decades, notably worn by Jackie Kennedy in the 1960s.
The post-World War II era witnessed a shift in fashion, with the "New Look" pioneered by Christian Dior in 1947. This new style, with its emphasis on exaggerated femininity, contrasted the austerity of the war years. Dior's designs, including hats and accessories, were introduced to Australia in 1948 when they were flown to Sydney for David Jones' spring parades. This marked a significant moment in Australian fashion, as it was the first time Dior's original fashions had been presented outside of Paris.
While Dior's fashions were groundbreaking, they were out of reach for most Australian women. However, the influence of French fashion extended beyond haute couture. In 1956, the "Paris Comes to Sydney" exhibition showcased French fabrics, fashions, and other luxury items, reflecting Australians' enthusiasm for French style. This included a hat created by ex-serviceman and milliner John Pickworth, made from wool georgette and designed to be worn in three different ways.
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Frequently asked questions
There were several factors influencing Australian fashion in the 1950s. The country's strong historical ties to Britain meant that European fashion continued to be highly influential. However, the focus shifted towards Australian designers and Australian-made fashion. American films, music, and fashion also became wildly popular in Australia, with many Australians adopting the freer, looser, and more informal American style.
The 1950s saw a focus on hyper-femininity and the idealised female form, with an emphasis on the hourglass silhouette. Foundation garments, such as corsets and girdles, were popularised by Dior's "New Look", which featured tiny "wasp" waists and accentuated bustlines. Women's shoes also became more fashionable, with the stiletto heel making its first appearance. Hats were a major accessory, with pillbox hats and hats with floral patterns being particularly trendy.
The post-World War II context had a significant impact on Australian fashion in the 1950s. During the war, fashion became more practical and less embellished, and women were encouraged to recycle and make their own clothes. In the post-war period, there was a reaction against the austerity of the war years, and fashion became more extravagant and feminine. Christian Dior's "New Look" collection in 1947 embodied this new style, though these couture garments would have been unaffordable for most Australian women.
1950s fashion in Australia was characterised by a mix of European, American, and local influences. Women's fashion emphasised femininity and glamour, with pencil or shirtwaist dresses, stockings, gloves, and hats being popular choices. Floral, polka dot, and cherry-printed fabrics were favoured for day wear. The stiletto heel made its debut in the 1950s, though these shoes were sometimes banned from certain places due to the damage they caused to floors. For men, the 1950s marked a shift towards dressing "for show", and both sexes became much more fashion-conscious.
