The Burqa In Afghanistan: A Complex Cultural Symbol

The burqa is an outer garment worn by some Muslim women that fully covers the body and face, with a mesh screen over the eyes. In Afghanistan, it is known as a chadaree or chaadar. During the Taliban's first rule of Afghanistan from 1996 to 2001, women were forced to wear the burqa in public. After the fall of the Taliban in 2001, women were no longer subject to this restriction, and the rejection of the burqa by millions became a symbol of a new dawn for women's rights in Afghanistan. However, with the Taliban's return to power in 2021, there was a drastic increase in the sale of chadarees in Kabul as women feared a return to oppressive restrictions. While the Taliban initially stated that the burqa was not mandatory, in May 2022, they issued a decree that all women in public must wear one.

Burqa is not mandatory, but hijab is for security, says Taliban

Background

The Taliban, who ruled Afghanistan from 1996 to 2001, enforced a strict interpretation of Sharia law that included a ban on women working and girls' education. Women were forced to wear the burqa, a full-body covering with a mesh panel over the eyes, in public during this time.

Current Situation

Since retaking control of Afghanistan in 2021, the Taliban has attempted to present a more moderate image to the world. They have pledged to respect women's rights and allow girls to receive an education. However, they have also imposed restrictions on women's freedom, including a decree that women must cover themselves from head to toe in public, with either a burqa or a hijab.

The Taliban's Stance

Taliban spokesperson Suhail Shaheen has stated that "the burqa is not the only hijab that can be observed; there are different types of hijab not limited to the burqa." He did not specify what other types of hijab would be deemed acceptable by the militant group. The Taliban justifies these restrictions as necessary for women's security and in accordance with Islamic law and tradition.

International Reaction

The Taliban's decrees regarding women's dress and education have been met with international condemnation. The United Nations, the European Union, and the State Department have all expressed concern over the restrictions. Despite this, the Taliban has shown little willingness to concede to international pressure.

Impact on Women in Afghanistan

The Taliban's decrees have had a significant impact on the lives of women and girls in Afghanistan. They are now restricted to wearing either a burqa or a full hijab that covers the entire body and face when in public. Compliance is the responsibility of women's male relatives or guardians, who face punishment if female relatives repeatedly flout the directive. Women are also facing restrictions on their access to education and employment, with the Taliban closing girls' schools and limiting women to working only in certain sectors.

Burqa sales rise in anticipation of Taliban rule

In the days following the Taliban's takeover of Kabul on 15 August 2021, sales of burqas in the city rose sharply. One merchant, Fahruddin Saib Zada, saw his sales jump from 12 a day to 40 a day in the first two days after the Taliban's arrival. Women who had enjoyed greater freedom under the previous regime now feared a return to the oppressive conditions of the Taliban's previous rule from 1996 to 2001, when the group forced women to cover themselves from head to toe in public, on pain of being whipped by enforcers.

During that earlier period of Taliban control, the burqa—a tent-like garment covering the wearer from head to toe, with a mesh grille over the eyes—became an emblem of Afghan women's subjugation. Even after the Taliban's initial defeat, the burqa remained common in the hinterlands and more conservative cities like Kandahar. In Kabul, however, burqas were less popular, and the city became known for its cosmopolitanism, with shopping malls, cellphone stores, and cappuccino bars where young men and women mixed freely.

When the Taliban returned to power in 2021, they did not immediately decree that the burqa was mandatory. Instead, they required women to wear a hijab, or modest Islamic dress, including a head covering and non-revealing clothing. However, the Taliban's pronouncements on women's rights and dress have been open to interpretation and may change over time. Women's advocates and religious scholars have argued that there is nothing in the Quran that requires women to wear such restrictive clothing.

In the days after the Taliban takeover, women in Kabul generally adhered to a mode of dress common in many Muslim countries, covering their arms, legs, and hair, and avoiding tight or short garments. Burqas could be seen on the city's streets, but they were not the norm. However, shopkeepers reported increased sales and prices of burqas, with some women stocking up in anticipation of a return to the harsh restrictions of the past. One woman, who had worn a burqa under the previous Taliban government, said she bought one for herself out of fear that the Taliban would ""hunt [her] down and beat [her] up" if she was seen without it.

The Taliban's return to power has had a devastating impact on the rights and freedoms of Afghan women. In addition to the dress requirements, the group has closed schools for girls and women after the sixth grade and forbidden women to travel without a male chaperone. Compliance with the dress code is the responsibility of women's male relatives or guardians, who face punishment if their female relatives repeatedly flout the directive. The Taliban's rules have made women even more invisible in Afghan society and severely limited their access to education, employment, and public life.

Afghan women protest the Taliban's black hijab mandate

In recent months, Afghan women have been taking to social media to protest the Taliban's new hijab requirement in schools. The Taliban has mandated the segregation of genders in classrooms and stated that female students, lecturers, and employees must wear black hijabs in accordance with their interpretation of Sharia law. This has sparked a debate about women's attire in Afghanistan, with many women expressing their disapproval of the mandate.

The Taliban's Hijab Mandate

On Saturday, photos emerged of female students wearing head-to-toe black robes and waving Taliban flags in a lecture hall at a government-run university in Kabul. In response, other Afghan women, including prominent figures such as journalists and politicians, posted pictures of themselves in bright and colorful traditional Afghan dresses, creating a stark contrast to the mandated black hijab. These women aimed to educate and dispel the misinformation propagated by the Taliban, asserting that the mandated dress is not part of Afghan culture.

The Impact of the Mandate

The fate of women in Afghanistan has been a significant concern since the Taliban took control of the country following the withdrawal of US and international troops in August 2021. The Taliban has historically treated women as second-class citizens, subjecting them to violence, forced marriages, and severe restrictions on their rights. The absence of female representatives in the Taliban's interim government and the disappearance of women from public spaces have further fueled worries about the future of women in Afghanistan.

Protests and International Reactions

Afghan women, both within the country and around the world, have been actively protesting the Taliban's hijab mandate. In Kabul, women gathered in front of the Ministry of Women's Affairs to demonstrate against the mandate and other restrictions imposed by the Taliban. Additionally, small groups of women in Kabul have spoken out against the decree, arguing that men should not dictate women's attire. The Taliban's dress code enforcement has also been met with widespread international condemnation, including statements from the United Nations Secretary-General and Islamic scholars.

The Taliban's Response

Despite the protests and international criticism, the Taliban remains defiant. A Taliban spokesman, Inaamullah Samangani, stated that they are seeking to smoothly enforce the decree and that it is not a particular kind of hijab imposed on women but rather a continuation of common practices in their areas. The Taliban justifies its actions as an Islamic obligation, while others argue that it is inspired by rural Afghan traditions and a misunderstanding of Islamic teachings.

Burqa is an enveloping outer garment worn by some Muslim women

The burqa is an enveloping outer garment worn by some Muslim women. It fully covers the body and face, with a mesh screen that only allows the wearer to see in front of her. The term burqa is sometimes used interchangeably with the niqāb, but the niqab is a face veil that leaves the eyes uncovered. The burqa, on the other hand, covers the entire body from the top of the head to the ground. It is often blue in Afghanistan and is known as a chadaree or chaadar.

The wearing of the burqa has been a subject of debate and controversy in Afghanistan and around the world. During the Taliban's first rule in the late 1990s, the burqa was mandatory for women in public. Girls' schools were closed, and women were prevented from working and travelling outside their homes. Failure to wear the burqa in public resulted in severe punishments and public lashings by the Taliban's "moral police".

After the fall of the Taliban in 2001, the rejection of the burqa by millions of Afghan women became a symbol of a new era of freedom and self-determination. Women in Afghanistan began to dress in a variety of styles, mixing traditional and modern influences. However, with the Taliban's return to power in 2021, there was a drastic increase in the sale of burqas as women feared a return to oppressive restrictions on their lives.

The Taliban initially stated that the burqa was not mandatory and that there were different types of acceptable hijab (headscarf). However, in May 2022, the Taliban issued a decree that all women in public must wear the chadaree. This has sparked protests and resistance from Afghan women, who fear the loss of their hard-won freedoms and a return to the oppressive conditions of the past.

The burqa has been banned or partially banned in several countries, including Austria, France, Belgium, Denmark, and Norway, among others. The reasons for these bans vary and include concerns for public safety, integration, and women's rights. In contrast, some women choose to wear the burqa as an expression of their piety, modesty, cultural views, or political views.

Burqa is not worn in all parts of Afghanistan

The burqa is not worn in all parts of Afghanistan. In fact, in some parts of Kabul, there are still women who do not cover their faces in public. However, the Taliban, who have taken control of the country, have issued a decree stating that all women must wear the burqa or another type of face veil in public. This has sparked protests from some Afghan women, who see it as an attack on their human rights and freedom.

The burqa, a full-body veil that covers the face with a mesh screen over the eyes, has been worn by some Muslim women in Afghanistan and other countries. It is not a religious requirement for Muslim women, but rather a cultural and traditional practice. In Afghanistan, the burqa is traditionally worn in shades of blue and is synonymous with Afghan women's identity.

While the Taliban had initially stated that the burqa would not be mandatory for women, they have since imposed restrictions on women's clothing and announced that not wearing a hijab or covering the face with a veil is a crime. They have also stated that women should not leave their homes at all if possible, and that male relatives will be punished if women do not comply with the dress code.

The new restrictions on women's dress are in addition to other limitations imposed by the Taliban, including banning women from travelling long distances alone, working outside of healthcare or education, and receiving a secondary education. These restrictions have been widely condemned by the international community and human rights activists, who see them as a form of ""gender apartheid" and a way to erase women from public life in Afghanistan.

Despite the Taliban's attempts to control women's dress and restrict their freedoms, there are still women in Afghanistan who are resisting and speaking up against these oppressive measures. Some have continued to wear their normal attire, while others have participated in protests and spoken out against the Taliban's interpretation of Islamic law and their efforts to scrub women from public life.

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