The Art Of Discretion: Beauty Routines And Makeup Culture In Afghanistan

Afghan women have traditionally worn the burqa, which is a full-body veil that covers the face and is sold mostly in shades of blue, white and grey. However, the black burqa is less common across the country. In Afghanistan, the hijab tends to refer to clothing that covers the head and body more fully, rather than just a headscarf. In recent times, Afghan women have worn a mix of clothing, including Iranian-style chadors, manteaus, abayas, big baggy dresses with pleated trousers, and tight jeans with long shirts or coats.

In May 2022, the Taliban ordered all Afghan women to cover their faces in public, with the exception of their eyes. This was the latest in a series of sweeping restrictions on women's rights, including the right to travel long distances alone, work outside of healthcare or education, and receive a secondary education. The decree made women's male relatives responsible for policing their clothing, with the threat of fines or prison if they failed to do so.

The Taliban's ruling has impacted what women wear across Afghanistan, with many amending their clothing to avoid trouble for themselves or their male relatives. However, there has been some resistance to the ruling, with women's rights activists protesting against the imposition of a dress code. Some Afghan women have also disputed the Taliban's claim that covering up, especially the face, is absolutely required for women according to Islamic faith.

Afghan women's use of kohl eyeliner

Kohl eyeliner is created using a mixture of pounded antimony and almond oil, with the addition of various beneficial herbs in some cases. This combination of ingredients is believed to strengthen the eyes and protect them from the harsh desert environment. The use of kohl eyeliner in Afghanistan can be traced back to the ancient Egyptians and the mysterious kingdom of Punt on the Horn of Africa. It was originally used for the prevention of eye ailments and to shield the eyes from the bright desert sun.

In Afghanistan, kohl eyeliner is applied to the inner rims of the eyes, creating a deep, intense look that accentuates and enhances the eyes' appearance. It is worn by women of all ages and is considered a cultural and cosmetic staple. Kohl is also used for religious purposes by Muslim women, who wear it as a sign of devotion during Ramadan. They follow the example of the Prophet Muhammed, who is believed to have applied kohl and recommended its use for eye health.

The application of kohl eyeliner is often a skill passed down through generations, with grandmothers and mothers teaching their daughters the technique. It is seen as a symbol of beauty and femininity, with its dramatic and enchanting effect on the eyes. Kohl eyeliner is usually applied using a small wooden wand or a clean finger, delicately outlining the inner eyelids.

While kohl eyeliner holds cultural and religious significance in Afghanistan, there have been concerns about the safety of certain ingredients, particularly lead sulfide, which can cause lead poisoning. Traditional kohl eyeliner is not considered safe in the United States due to these health risks, and importing it into the country is banned. However, modern eyeliner products marketed as "kohl" can be found in the U.S., although they do not contain the traditional ingredients.

The Taliban's strict dress code for women

The Taliban has imposed a strict dress code on women and girls in Afghanistan, with those who do not comply facing arbitrary detention and other punishments. The rules require women to wear head-to-toe clothing that only reveals their eyes, preferably a black burqa or niqab, along with black gloves.

The dress code was issued by the Taliban's acting minister for the promotion of virtue and prevention of vice, Khaled Hanafi, who stated that "We want our sisters to live with dignity and safety." The rules are to be enforced by women's male guardians—their brothers, fathers, husbands, or sons—who will be punished if the women defy them. Punishments include several days in jail or being fired from their jobs.

The Taliban's dress code has been implemented alongside other restrictions on women's education, employment, expression, association, privacy, movement, and participation in public life. The United Nations has expressed deep concern over the arbitrary detention and ill-treatment of women and girls for allegedly violating the dress code, with experts stating that:

> "This current wave of deprivation of liberty further restricts the already severely limited freedoms of expression and movement of women and girls, and violates their human rights and agency."

The dress code has been enforced by the Taliban's Ministry for the Propagation of Virtue and Prevention of Vice and the police, with women being forcibly taken into police vehicles and held incommunicado. The release of these women is dependent on their male family members providing assurances that they will comply with the dress code in the future.

The use of makeup as a form of protest

Makeup has long been used as a method of protest and a tool for political means. In Afghanistan, the use of makeup is deeply rooted in the country's culture and traditions. Afghan women have traditionally worn the burqa, often in shades of blue, white, and grey, with black robes being less common. While the Taliban has imposed strict dress codes for women, with varying levels of enforcement across the country, the use of makeup as a form of protest and resistance has emerged.

In Afghanistan, the use of kohl, a traditional eyeliner made from a black stone powder and castor oil, has been a common practice for both men and women. Kohl is believed to improve eyesight and protect the eyes from the sun and dust. For women, kohl can be a way to subtly enhance their eyes, even when wearing a burqa or hijab. The application of kohl can be seen as a form of self-care and a way to feel a sense of control over one's appearance, especially in restrictive environments.

Additionally, Afghan women have found creative ways to express themselves and push back against the Taliban's restrictions. Some women have chosen to wear bright colours or patterns underneath their burqas or hijabs, adding a touch of individuality and personality to their attire. Others have used makeup strategically to anonymize themselves during protests, employing anti-surveillance makeup techniques to avoid identification by authorities.

Makeup, in this context, becomes a powerful tool for self-expression, resistance, and community care. It allows women to feel a sense of control over their appearance, even in the face of oppressive restrictions. The use of makeup as a form of protest in Afghanistan is a way for women to assert their presence, challenge societal norms, and push for change.

The role of male relatives in policing women's clothing

In Afghanistan, family is the most important aspect of life. Loyalty to one's family supersedes any obligations to one's tribe or ethnicity. Because of this, Afghan women are often more likely to open up to other women about their personal lives, but family matters are generally kept within the family.

In Afghanistan, gender roles are highly patriarchal and rigidly defined. Men are viewed as the main income earners, while women are seen as homemakers. Husbands are expected to provide for their wives and children, and it is generally believed that a woman does not need to be financially independent. This belief is enforced by Islamic inheritance law, which states that females receive exactly half of the wealth that their male relatives receive.

The Taliban's interpretation of these gender roles has resulted in extreme restrictions on women, including their seclusion and exclusion from society. Women are not considered fully autonomous citizens of Afghanistan, and a man is deemed responsible for their presence in public, including how they dress and where they travel.

The Taliban has enforced a strict dress code for women, stating that they should not leave the house without a real need and, if they do, they should wear what is termed 'sharia hijab', with their faces covered entirely, except for the eyes. The order makes women's 'guardians' – their fathers, husbands, or brothers – legally responsible for policing their clothing, with the threat of punishment if the woman goes outside with her face uncovered. The punishment for the woman's male guardian starts with a warning, then being summoned to the "relevant department," then three days' imprisonment, and finally, a court appearance and judicial punishment.

The Taliban's rules have been enforced sporadically, with some officials turning a blind eye to solo travel. However, there have been reports of Taliban soldiers trying to enforce the dress code, with some women being barred from boarding planes or even commuting to work.

The impact of the Taliban's rulings on women's confidence

The Taliban's rulings have had a devastating impact on the confidence of Afghan women. Women have reported feelings of isolation, suffocation, and imprisonment. Many have lost their jobs and are unable to meet their basic needs. The Taliban's restrictions have also led to serious mental health consequences, including fear, anxiety, hopelessness, insomnia, and a deep sense of loss and helplessness.

The Taliban's rulings have also impacted women's confidence to leave their homes. Women have been banned from travelling long distances without a male chaperone, and unchaperoned women are increasingly being denied access to essential services. The Taliban have also decreed that women should not leave their homes unless necessary.

The Taliban's rulings have also impacted women's confidence in their appearance. The Taliban have enforced increasingly strict guidelines on women's clothing, including the requirement to cover their faces in public.

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