Austria's Claim To The Croissant: Culinary Innovation

The croissant is a pastry that is widely regarded as a French staple. However, the history of the croissant suggests that it may not be French at all. The origin of the croissant can be traced back to 13th-century Austria, where it was called the kipferl, derived from the German word for crescent. The kipferl is believed to be the predecessor of the modern-day croissant, with a similar crescent shape and a denser, sweeter taste. The first verified evidence of the croissant in France is attributed to Austrian artillery officer August Zang, who founded a Viennese bakery in Paris in the early 1800s, introducing the kipferl to the French.

The Austrian kipferl

The kipferl is said to have originated in the late 17th century as a celebration of the Austrian victory over the Ottoman Empire at the siege of Vienna. Legend has it that Viennese bakers, who often worked in cellars, were up early one morning and heard the Ottomans attempting to tunnel into the city. After sounding the alarm, the bakers created the kipferl, with its curved shape made to resemble the crescent moon on the Ottoman flag.

However, this story is widely disregarded by experts, who claim that the kipferl or its relatives can be dated back to the 13th century, or possibly even earlier. A poem mentions the kipferl as one of the Christmas treats presented to Duke Leopold in 1227, and moon-shaped breads have been around for centuries.

Despite its Austrian origins, the kipferl was later adapted by the French and became known as the croissant. The earliest recorded introduction of the kipferl to France was in 1839 by Austrian artillery officer and entrepreneur August Zang, who founded a Viennese bakery in Paris. Zang's bakery inspired imitators, and the French version of the kipferl was named after its crescent shape, or "croissant" in French. By 1840, there were already a dozen "makers of Viennese bread" in Paris, and the pastry had begun to become entrenched in French culture.

The croissant's French name

The croissant is widely believed to have originated in Austria, where it was known as the "kipferl" (or "kipfel"). The kipferl is thought to date back to at least the 13th century and is described as a denser, sweeter version of the modern croissant, often filled with nuts or other fillings. The name "croissant," meaning "crescent" in French, was given to the pastry due to its distinctive shape.

The transition from kipferl to croissant is surrounded by legends and myths. One popular tale attributes the introduction of the croissant to France to Marie Antoinette, who is said to have brought the pastry over when she married King Louis XVI in 1770. However, this legend has been disputed by experts, who find it unlikely due to the lack of historical records and the late appearance of the croissant in French historical records (around 1850).

The earliest verified introduction of the kipferl to France is credited to Austrian entrepreneur August Zang, who opened a Viennese-style boulangerie in Paris in 1838. Zang's bakery, known as "Boulangerie Viennoise", introduced Parisians to the kipferl, which they began calling "croissants" due to their crescent shape. The bakery was a sensation, and by the time it closed in 1840, there were already several imitators baking the crescent-shaped delicacy.

The French version of the kipferl continued to evolve, and in 1915, French baker Sylvain Claudius Goy wrote the first-known French recipe for the croissant. Goy's recipe replaced the brioche dough used by Zang with laminated yeast dough, creating the flaky layers that have become synonymous with the modern croissant.

Today, the croissant is synonymous with France and French culture, and while it may have Austrian origins, it has been fully embraced and adapted by the French, solidifying its place as a beloved French pastry.

August Zang's bakery

August Zang, an Austrian entrepreneur and former artillery officer, founded the bakery 'Boulangerie Viennoise' in Paris in 1838 or 1839. The bakery, located on 92 Rue Richelieu, was colloquially known as "Zang's" to Parisians.

Zang's bakery introduced the kipferl, a crescent-shaped delicacy, to the people of Paris. The kipferl is considered to be the predecessor of the modern-day croissant and is a baked bread roll made with a generous amount of butter, often served topped with sugar and almonds. The bakery also served other famous Viennese treats.

Zang's unique products and marketing strategies, such as advertising in newspapers and creating lavish window displays, made his bakery a sensation. By the time Boulangerie Viennoise closed in 1840, there were already around a dozen bakeries imitating his beloved crescent-shaped treat. The French word 'croissant', meaning crescent, replaced the original Austrian name, and the pastry became firmly cemented in Parisian culture.

August Zang also introduced the Viennese steam oven to France, which became the standard oven used for baguettes.

Sylvain Claudius Goy's recipe

In 1915, French baker Sylvain Claudius Goy recorded the first-known French version of the croissant recipe. Goy's recipe, which can be found on page 272 of his book 'La Cuisine Anglo-Americaine', is the first published example of a croissant recipe.

Goy's recipe is significant because it uses laminated yeast dough instead of brioche dough. Lamination involves folding butter and dough to create thin, flaky layers of pastry. This technique differentiates his croissants from traditional puff pastries and is considered the standard for modern croissants.

To make the laminated dough, Goy's recipe calls for a combination of Manitoba flour, all-purpose flour, fresh yeast, softened butter, and butter for laminating. The dough is prepared by mixing the dry ingredients and yeast with cold water and milk, then left to rest overnight. The butter is prepared by pounding it with a rolling pin and rolling it out into a square. The dough is then rolled out into a rectangle, and the butter is placed in the middle, with the dough folded over to cover it. This package is then carefully rolled out to spread the butter evenly throughout the dough.

The next step is to fold the dough into thirds (a single turn), wrap it, and chill it in the refrigerator for 15 minutes. The process of rolling and folding the dough is repeated two more times, resulting in a total of three single turns for croissants. After the final turn, the dough is rolled out into a rectangle, and uniform isosceles triangles are cut to shape the croissants.

The triangles are then gently stretched and rolled from the base towards the top to form the iconic crescent shape. The croissants are placed on a lined baking tray, brushed with an egg wash, and proofed at a lower temperature (around 27°C or 80°F) for about 2 hours. Proofing at a higher temperature will melt the butter. Once proofed, the croissants are brushed with the egg wash again and baked at 180°C (350°F) for approximately 20 minutes, or until golden.

With this recipe, Goy revolutionised the croissant, transforming it into the flaky, buttery pastry we know and love today.

The croissant's global popularity

The croissant has become a staple of modern global cuisine. In the United States, croissants are soaring in popularity, with 42% of retail bakeries now carrying croissants—a higher percentage than donuts or bagels. This popularity is due in part to the ability to create unique products that can be either sweet or savoury and can be eaten at any time of the day.

In France, croissants are a common part of a continental breakfast and are also a staple in Spain, Germany, Argentina, Uruguay, Italy, Portugal, and Poland. In South America, croissants are commonly served alongside coffee for breakfast, aperitivo (a light mid-morning meal), or merienda (a mid-afternoon meal). They are referred to as "medialunas" ("half moons") because of their shape and are typically coated with a sweet glaze.

In the United States, sweet fillings or toppings are sometimes used, and warm croissants may be filled with ham and cheese, or feta cheese and spinach. In the Levant, croissants are sold plain or filled with chocolate, cheese, almonds, or zaatar. In Germany, croissants are sometimes filled with Nutella or persipan, and in southern Germany, there is a popular variety of croissant glazed with lye (Laugencroissant).

The croissant has also inspired spin-offs in other countries, such as Spain's cream-filled Xuixo and the American fast-food croissan’wich.

The global impact of the croissant is undeniable, with a recent study valuing the size of the global croissant market at 6663.1 million USD, with projected growth expected to reach 8574.66 million USD by 2027.

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