Exploring Afghanistan's Complex Tourism Story: A Land Of Beauty And Conflict

Afghanistan is a landlocked country in Asia, sharing borders with Pakistan, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and China. The country has a tumultuous history, having been the site of major wars over the past few decades, including the Soviet invasion in 1979, the rise of the Taliban, and the American and NATO invasion. As a result, Afghanistan is considered a war zone, and travelling there is strongly discouraged by governments around the world. The security situation is highly volatile, with a high threat of terrorism, kidnapping, violent crime, and wrongful detention. Additionally, the country faces frequent natural disasters such as flooding, earthquakes, and droughts. All of these factors make Afghanistan an extremely dangerous place to visit, especially for women and Westerners, who are often targeted by criminal and terrorist groups. While there may be some areas that are safer than others, the country as a whole is not recommended as a tourist destination.

Safety and security

Afghanistan is considered a war zone and travelling there is strongly discouraged. The security situation is highly volatile and dangerous, with violent incidents occurring across the country. The country is under Taliban control, and several other armed Islamist groups are active in Afghanistan. There is an ongoing and very high threat of terrorist attacks across the country, including in Kabul. Locations including cafes, restaurants, hotels, airports, government buildings, and religious sites may be targeted. The risk of terrorist attacks is heightened during religious festivals, such as Ramadan.

Additionally, there is a significant risk of kidnapping and detention of foreign nationals. Foreigners, including aid and humanitarian workers, journalists, tourists, and dual citizens, are at risk of being kidnapped or arbitrarily detained. Reasons for detention may be unclear, and the length of detention can range from months to years. The conditions of detention can be damaging to health and welfare, with limited or no access to medical attention.

The threat of violent crime is also high in Afghanistan. Violent crimes such as armed robbery, carjacking, and sexual and gender-based violence occur throughout the country. Weapons are readily available, and the number of civilian casualties is high. Criminals are taking advantage of the unstable security situation to commit violent attacks.

Furthermore, women travellers face additional risks in Afghanistan. Women are required to abide by specific rules and behaviours, such as travelling and going to public places with a male guardian and covering their hair and body when outside the home. Women may face challenges when trying to interact with authorities and may be at a higher risk of harassment and abuse, including from the authorities.

Overall, the safety and security situation in Afghanistan poses a significant risk to travellers. It is essential to follow the advice of government authorities and avoid all non-essential travel to Afghanistan.

Border crossings

Afghanistan shares its borders with six countries: Pakistan, Iran, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, and China. However, due to the volatile security situation, border crossings may be closed without warning. Here is a detailed breakdown of the key border crossings:

Pakistan

The Torkham border crossing, near the Khyber Pass, is the main transit point for travellers and goods between Pakistan and Afghanistan. However, it has been closed intermittently due to deteriorating relations and gunfire exchanges between the two countries' authorities. Pakistan has eight formal border crossings with Afghanistan, including Torkham and Chaman-Spin Boldak, which have international status.

Iran

The Islam Qala-Taybad border crossing is the main crossing point between Iran and Afghanistan, connecting Mashad and Herat. It is open and operates during daylight hours, with money exchange services available on both sides. Shared taxis are the quickest way to travel to and from the border.

Uzbekistan

The Termez-Hairatan border crossing is the main route to Mazar-i-Sharif. However, it is currently only open to Afghan and Uzbek nationals. Expect a laid-back atmosphere on the Afghan side, but thorough checks and an obligatory shuttle bus on the Uzbek side.

Turkmenistan

The Torghundi-Serkhetabat border crossing is the main border between Turkmenistan and Afghanistan, leading to Herat. While locals claim it is open, it was reported as closed for tourists by the Brussels embassy in 2018. This border usually closes for lunch and takes about two hours to cross.

Tajikistan

The Ishkashim border crossing connects the Tajik and Afghan Wakhan valleys and is the safest way to access the narrow Wakhan Corridor. The border does close periodically due to disease outbreaks and Taliban activity. The Shirkhan Bandar border crossing, south of Dushanbe, is also open.

China

The Wakhjir pass is the only pass between Afghanistan and China, located at a challenging altitude of 4,923 metres. It is not open to foreigners at present, and the infrastructure situation is unclear.

General Advice

Local laws

Afghanistan is an Islamic country and its legal system is based on Sharia law. The country's laws are subject to the ruling Taliban's interpretation of Islamic teachings and values. Here are some key points regarding local laws in Afghanistan:

Women's Rights and Restrictions

The Taliban enforces strict codes of behaviour and dress for women. In public places, women are expected to cover themselves fully, including their faces. They must wear loose clothing that conceals their bodies, arms, and legs, and their hair must be covered with a headscarf. Women are also prohibited from travelling or moving around Afghanistan without being accompanied by a male guardian, known as a "mahram" (typically a husband, father, or brother). These restrictions have severely limited women's freedom of movement and their ability to leave the country.

LGBTQIA+ Rights

Consensual same-sex relationships are illegal and punishable by death. LGBTQIA+ individuals face discrimination, violence, arbitrary arrest, and detention. Same-sex sexual relations are strictly prohibited under Taliban rule and have always been illegal in Afghanistan.

Freedom of Religion

Preaching religions other than Islam and renouncing Islam is illegal. Converting or attempting to convert someone from Islam to another religion can result in harsh punishments, including the death sentence.

Press and Media Freedom

Journalists face significant risks in Afghanistan. They are subject to arbitrary arrest, detention, and violence for expressing views critical of the Taliban or violating their rules. Women journalists, in particular, have been forced to stop working due to increasing restrictions.

Freedom of Assembly and Expression

Peaceful protests, especially those led by women, often face violent dispersal by the Taliban, who use firearms, water cannons, and stun guns. Participants in these protests are subject to arbitrary arrest, detention, and enforced disappearance.

Human Rights Defenders

Human rights activists and members of civil society face violence, intimidation, and surveillance. They are often subjected to arbitrary arrest, detention, and torture.

Foreign Nationals

Foreign nationals, including aid workers and journalists, face a high risk of kidnapping, wrongful detention, and harassment by the Taliban. Reasons for detention are often unclear, and consular assistance is extremely limited for citizens of countries like the US, UK, Canada, and Australia.

Other Laws and Restrictions

• It is illegal to use, possess, or bring into the country narcotics, alcohol, or pork products.
• Photographing certain buildings, such as government offices, military installations, and palaces, is prohibited and can lead to detention.
• Historical antiquities must be purchased from authorised suppliers or dealers, and proof of purchase is required when leaving the country.
• Public displays of physical affection between men and women are considered offensive and are prohibited.

Health and sanitation

Afghanistan has been experiencing a crisis regarding clean water and sanitation. Only 42% of Afghans have access to safe drinking water, and only 27% of the rural population have access to sanitation facilities. This has resulted in diarrhoeal disease that claims the lives of an estimated 85,0000 Afghan children under the age of five annually.

The lack of clean water and sanitation is also causing malnutrition and outbreaks of water-borne diseases such as cholera. The situation is especially dire for women and girls, who are often responsible for fetching water and are at risk of physical and psychological damage.

Several organisations, including UNICEF and IOM, are working to address this issue. They are providing funding, resources, and sustained, safe, and appropriate Water, Sanitation, and Hygiene (WASH) services. These interventions include rehabilitating small water supply infrastructure, providing household water treatment items and hand hygiene infrastructure, and promoting hygiene practices.

Despite these efforts, the situation remains critical, with two-thirds of the country facing water scarcity and the ongoing risk of disease outbreaks and malnutrition.

Women's safety

• Government Warnings: Official travel advisories from countries like the US, UK, Canada, and Australia strongly advise against travelling to Afghanistan due to security risks, including the threat of terrorism, kidnapping, and arbitrary detention. These warnings are specifically directed at their citizens, urging them not to visit the country under any circumstances.
• Security Risks: The security situation in Afghanistan is highly volatile, with a significant risk of terrorism, kidnapping, and violent crimes. Women travellers, in particular, face a heightened risk of harassment and abuse, and detention. It is mandatory for women to be accompanied by a male guardian when travelling or visiting public places, and they must adhere to strict dress codes, covering themselves from head to toe.
• Taliban Rule: Since the Taliban's return to power in 2021, women's rights and freedoms have been severely restricted. The Taliban has imposed strict interpretations of Islam, limiting women's access to education, employment, and public life. Women are banned from attending universities, denied basic freedoms, and face harsh punishments for any perceived violations.
• Domestic Abuse: Domestic abuse against women is prevalent in Afghanistan, and it often goes unpunished. Women who attempt to escape abusive situations may face further challenges, as seen in the case of Khadija, who was threatened with losing custody of her child if she left her abusive husband.
• Suicide and Mental Health: The oppression and lack of opportunities have taken a toll on Afghan women's mental health. Afghanistan has one of the highest female suicide rates in the world, with 80% of suicides committed by women. This is attributed to a cycle of domestic violence and poverty, leaving women feeling trapped and hopeless.
• Healthcare and Infrastructure: The country's healthcare system is inadequate, and medical facilities are limited. Women often lack access to legal and medical services, especially in cases of sexual assault. Basic infrastructure, such as electricity and telephones, is minimal even in urban areas, and food and water shortages are common.
• Consular Assistance: The ability of foreign governments to provide consular assistance to their citizens in Afghanistan is extremely limited. Embassies of several countries have suspended their operations, making it challenging for citizens to receive support if they encounter problems.
• Cultural Sensitivities: Afghanistan has conservative codes of dress and behaviour that women must adhere to. Public displays of physical affection between men and women are considered offensive. During the Islamic holy month of Ramadan, certain activities like eating, drinking, and smoking may be restricted during daylight hours.
• Natural Disasters: Afghanistan is prone to natural disasters such as flooding, earthquakes, avalanches, and droughts. These events can further exacerbate the challenges faced by women, limiting their access to essential resources and services.
• Travel Recommendations: Given the security risks and lack of infrastructure, travelling to Afghanistan as a woman is highly discouraged. If travel is absolutely necessary, it is advised to take strict security precautions, remain vigilant, and avoid displaying valuables or handling money in public.

Overall, Afghanistan poses significant risks to women's safety, and it is strongly recommended that women refrain from travelling to the country until the security situation improves and women's rights are upheld.

Frequently asked questions