Styling Austrian Jackets: A Guide To Wearing Alpine Fashion

Austrian jackets are a popular clothing item, with over 1,000 listings on Etsy. They are often associated with traditional Austrian clothing and can be made from various materials such as wool, leather, and velvet. The jackets typically feature unique design elements such as mandarin-style collars, antler or horn buttons, and natural fabrics like boiled wool. While some wearers may use the jacket to make a political or social statement, others appreciate its style and functionality. The jacket's history can be traced back to the early 19th century, with influences from military uniforms and hunting gear.

What are Austrian jackets typically made from?

Austrian jackets are typically made from natural fabrics like knit boiled wool, woven felted wool, or linen.

Boiled wool, or 'walk', is made by knitting the wool first and then 'walking' it, which is a lengthy wet-finishing process. It is called boiled wool because of the hot water used during the process, although the water never actually reaches boiling point. Instead, warm water is used over the course of several hours to achieve better results.

Loden, another fabric used in Austrian jackets, is made from loosely woven wool that undergoes the same 'walken' process as boiled wool, except the fabric is woven before being walked, not knitted.

Austrian jackets are often decorated with antler, bone, or horn buttons, known as 'Geweihknopfe' in German. They also feature a mandarin-style collar, known as a 'Stehkragan', and a back pleat, or 'Quetschfalte'.

What are the different styles of Austrian jackets?

Austrian jackets are typically made from natural fabrics like knit boiled wool, woven felted wool, or linen. They often feature a mandarin-style collar, antler/bone/horn buttons, trim, and a back pleat.

• Trachten Jackets: These can be for men or women and are often made from boiled wool or felted wool. They usually have traditional features such as a mandarin collar and horn buttons.
• Loden Jackets: Loden jackets are made from loosely woven wool that has been treated with a wet-finishing process called 'walken'. They can be for men or women.
• Bavarian Jackets: These jackets are similar to Trachten jackets but are specifically associated with the state of Bavaria. They often feature traditional elements such as antler buttons and mandarin collars.
• Tyrolean Jackets: These jackets are often associated with the Tyrol region of Austria and can be made from various materials, including wool, leather, or suede. They often have decorative elements such as embroidery or horn buttons.
• Alpine Blazers: These are a type of men's jacket that is designed for the Alpine region. They are typically made from warm and durable materials such as wool or leather.
• Leather Jackets: Austrian leather jackets are often designed with a traditional aesthetic in mind and may feature details such as horn buttons or embroidery.
• Sleeveless Jackets: Sleeveless Austrian jackets are also available, providing a more lightweight option for warmer weather.
• Boiled Wool Jackets: Boiled wool jackets are made from knit wool that has been treated with a process similar to Loden jackets. They are known for their warmth and softness.
• Vintage Austrian Jackets: Vintage Austrian jackets are a popular choice for those seeking a unique, one-of-a-kind piece. These can be found in various styles and materials, often featuring embroidery or decorative buttons.

Are Austrian jackets only worn in Austria?

Austrian jackets are not only worn in Austria, and they have become popular in other parts of the world, including the UK and the US.

Austrian jackets are a type of outerwear that typically features elements such as a mandarin-style collar, antler or horn buttons, trim, a back pleat, and natural fabrics like boiled wool or woven felted wool. While the term "Austrian jacket" can refer to any jacket with these features, a garment must conform to the unique uniform of a specific state or district to be considered a "Tracht".

Austrian jackets have a long history that dates back to the early 19th century, when Archduke Johann of Austria brought the style from the Styrian farms to the imperial court in Vienna. Initially, it was considered suspicious by the Crown and aristocracy, but it eventually gained popularity among the upper classes and middle classes. Today, Austrian jackets are worn by people of all ages and backgrounds, both in Austria and internationally.

In recent times, Austrian jackets have been associated with conservative and right-wing politics in Austria, as they declare the wearer's strong Austrian credentials. However, this type of jacket has also been embraced by modern and casual settings, where its militaristic cut can contrast interestingly with relaxed styles.

Austrian jackets are available for purchase online through various platforms, including Etsy, and specialty stores offering traditional Austrian clothing.

What are the political connotations of wearing an Austrian jacket?

The Austrian jacket, commonly called a Styrian jacket, has a cut that is a cross between the traditional gear worn by hunters in the Alpine valleys of the Austrian province of Styria and 19th-century military uniforms. The collar of the Styrian jacket is particularly distinctive.

Wearers of this type of jacket in Austria are usually making a strong social statement, advertising their conservative credentials. Although its distant roots are in the Styrian peasantry, the jacket’s recent pedigree is aristocratic. It was brought from the Styrian farms to Vienna’s imperial court in the 19th century by Archduke Johann of Austria. Initially considered with suspicion by the Crown and aristocracy, it eventually caught on and was popularised by the Austrian upper classes.

Wearing the jacket can also have strong political overtones, declaring the wearer’s Austrian credentials and a rampart against Eastern European influence. Jörg Haider, the far-right governor of the province of Carinthia, often wore the Carinthian version of this jacket (distinguished by its earth tones).

In Austria's 2016 presidential election, candidate Alexander Van der Bellen, an environmentalist and former academic, swapped his blazer for a tracht jacket at rural events in an attempt to win over sceptical country folk. His opponent, Norbert Hofer of the far-right Freedom Party, suggested in a debate that Van der Bellen was late to the trend and less than sincere. The Freedom Party has championed the tracht at its rowdy meetings in beer tents, aimed at striking a contrast with what it calls a stiff political elite.

According to Gexi Tostmann, who ran the upmarket Tostmann Trachten family business, "It cannot be denied that people with right-wing ideas are also prone to wearing tracht or like tracht." She sees the trend as a reaction to globalisation, with some wearers expressing a political preference, while others emphasise regional identity, tradition, or craftsmanship.

Are Austrian jackets only for men?

Austrian jackets are not just for men. While many retailers categorise jackets by gender, Austrian jackets are a style of outerwear that can be worn by anyone.

Austrian jackets are loosely defined as any outerwear that includes features typical of the region, such as mandarin-style collars, antler or horn buttons, and natural fabrics like boiled wool or woven felted wool. While some retailers label their Austrian jackets as "men's" or "women's", this is likely for convenience and to reflect the different cuts and sizes typically associated with each gender. However, this does not mean that only people of that gender can wear the jacket.

In fact, many retailers offer Austrian jackets specifically designed for women, and some even offer unisex options. Ultimately, anyone can wear an Austrian jacket, regardless of their gender, as long as they can find one that fits their size and style preferences.

If you're interested in purchasing an Austrian jacket, there are many retailers to choose from, including online marketplaces like Etsy and specialty boutiques like Robert W. Stolz and Edelweiss et culotte courte. These retailers offer a range of styles, from traditional to modern, and use high-quality, natural materials.

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