Leslie Massey
Australia is known for its large and powerful waves, which are often sought after by thrill-seeking surfers. One such wave is The Right, located off the southern coast of Western Australia, which is considered one of the most dangerous and challenging waves in the world due to its heavy, shallow, and unpredictable nature. The unique underwater rock formations that create this wave funnel and focus the incoming swell, resulting in a steep, fast, and powerful wave that breaks over shallow reefs. In addition to The Right, Australia's eastern states have also been battered by hazardous waves, with several tragic incidents of drownings and near-death experiences occurring along the coasts of New South Wales and Victoria. These powerful waves are often caused by low-pressure systems and ex-tropical cyclones, highlighting the unpredictable and dangerous nature of Australia's coastal waters.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Location | Off the southern coast of Western Australia |
| Formation | Unique set of underwater rock formations that funnel and focus the incoming swell |
| Height | Up to 20 feet (6 meters) |
| Swell Period | About 13 and a half to 14 seconds |
| Danger | One of the most dangerous waves in the world due to its heavy, shallow, and unpredictable nature |
| Hazards | Rock fishing, boating, and swimming |
| Death Toll | 5-6 people |
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What You'll Learn
The Right, a powerful and dangerous wave off Western Australia's southern coast
The Right is a powerful and dangerous wave located off the southern coast of Western Australia. It is widely considered one of the most dangerous and challenging waves in the world due to its heavy, shallow, and unpredictable nature. The wave breaks over a shallow reef, creating a large, hollow tube that can reach up to 20 feet (6 meters) in height. The wave's power, speed, and steep drop make it difficult to surf, and only the most skilled and experienced surfers attempt to ride it. Its exact location is a closely guarded secret known only to a select group of surfers and locals.
The wave is created by a unique set of underwater rock formations that funnel and focus the incoming swell, resulting in a steep and incredibly fast wave. The mechanics of the wave require a large and perfectly timed swell, as well as precise positioning by the surfer to catch it at the right moment. The wave's barrel section and the fact that it breaks over a dry, barnacle-encrusted reef add to its appeal for experienced and adventurous surfers looking for a challenge.
However, The Right's shallow reef and close proximity to jagged rocks mean that it can be extremely dangerous, with many surfers suffering serious injuries or even death from wipeouts. As a result, it is often referred to as one of the most dangerous waves in the world. The reward of surviving this wave is also extreme and intense, with surfers describing it as a euphoric ride on a living rollercoaster. The raw power of The Right and its mutating curtain of water make it one of the scariest waves, with one person describing it as having "the whole ocean behind it".
The wave is fueled by the Albany Canyon, a submarine canyon located 25-55 miles (40-90 kilometers) south of the southwest Australian coastline. When deep ocean wave trains hit the network of underwater ravines that extend from Cape Leeuwin to Esperance, the swells gain additional energy, resulting in waves that rise to 26 feet (8 meters) at The Right. The remote location and treacherous conditions of The Right add to its allure for thrill-seeking surfers, who continue to make the journey to this remote corner of Western Australia in search of the ultimate big wave experience.
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The impact of ex-Tropical Cyclone Tam on the NSW coast
Australia's east coast was battered by hazardous waves over the 2025 Easter weekend. The ex-Tropical Cyclone Tam underwent explosive cyclogenesis over the Tasman Sea, generating massive waves that hit the NSW coastline on Good Friday. The central pressure of the system dropped rapidly by 18 hPa in 24 hours, classifying it as a bombing Tasman Low. This led to powerful winds of 45-50 knots (85-90 km/h) circulating around the system. These winds generated large waves reaching 8-10 metres in the Tasman Sea.
The massive swell reached Sydney and the NSW coastline overnight into Good Friday, with significant wave heights of 4.5-5.5 metres. The swell peaked in the late morning and early afternoon, coinciding with the high tide at 11:30 am. A Hazardous Surf Warning remained in place for the entire NSW coastline on Saturday, April 19, with wave heights of 2.5-3 metres expected in the morning, gradually easing in the afternoon.
The impact of ex-Tropical Cyclone Tam resulted in dangerous conditions along the NSW coast. The powerful waves and strong winds posed significant risks to those in the area. The hazardous conditions led to tragic incidents, with reports of drownings and missing persons along the coasts of New South Wales and Victoria. The body of a man was discovered near Tathra in southern New South Wales, while a fisherman and two other men lost their lives in separate incidents in the state. Additionally, a woman drowned in San Remo, Victoria, while another man remains missing.
The waves caused by ex-Tropical Cyclone Tam highlighted the potential dangers of unpatrolled beaches in Australia. Adam Weir, the head of Surf Life Saving Australia, advised holidaymakers to visit patrolled beaches, citing data that revealed 630 drownings at unpatrolled beaches over the past decade. The powerful waves also impacted Taree, a city in New South Wales, which experienced record levels of rainfall, contributing to the overall destructive effects of the ex-tropical cyclone on the region's coastline.
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The dangers of rock fishing during hazardous surf
Australia is known for its big waves, with some of the largest swells in the world rolling through the Indian Ocean and sweeping the coast of Western and South Australia. These hazardous surf conditions can be extremely dangerous, and even deadly, for those engaging in rock fishing.
Rock fishing is considered one of the most dangerous sports in Australia, accounting for 4% of all drowning deaths in the country each year. The activity involves fishing from rock ledges and rock faces along the coastline of the ocean, often in treacherous shoreline locations. When hazardous surf warnings are issued, the risks associated with rock fishing are significantly heightened.
During periods of hazardous surf, rock fishers are advised to avoid coastal rock platforms exposed to the ocean and seek shelter in a safe location away from the surf. Unfortunately, many people ignore these warnings and continue to fish from rocks, putting their lives at risk. In one instance, two people drowned after being washed from rocks at Eden and Tathra during a period of hazardous surf.
To mitigate the risks associated with rock fishing during hazardous surf, it is crucial to follow safety recommendations. This includes wearing a life jacket, which can increase your chances of survival by 50%, and non-slip shoes. Additionally, rock fishers should consider the weather and surf conditions before venturing out, as large swells and strong winds can create treacherous conditions that are not suitable for fishing from exposed rocks. By taking these precautions and staying informed about potential hazards, rock fishers can help ensure their safety while still enjoying their sport.
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The role of nonprofits in promoting water safety
Australia is known for its big and dangerous waves, such as the notorious 'The Right' wave, which is considered one of the most challenging waves in the world due to its heavy, shallow, and unpredictable nature. These hazardous waves pose a significant threat to swimmers and surfers, underlining the importance of water safety in the country.
Nonprofit organizations play a crucial role in promoting water safety in Australia. They work alongside government initiatives, such as the Australian Water Safety Strategy (AWSS), to prevent drowning and enhance water safety across the nation's beaches, rivers, lakes, and swimming pools. These organizations include Royal Life Saving and Surf Life Saving Australia, which is headed by Adam Weir.
Surf Life Saving Australia, for example, advises holidaymakers to visit patrolled beaches, highlighting the dangers of unpatrolled locations. Their data revealed that 630 people drowned at unpatrolled beaches in Australia over the past decade. The organization's work extends beyond providing safety advice to include search and rescue operations, as seen in the efforts to find missing individuals swept into the water during hazardous wave incidents.
Nonprofits also contribute to water safety by raising awareness about non-fatal drowning incidents and promoting access to swimming and water safety skills for all Australians, including refugees, migrants, and those in regional areas. They encourage communities to develop local water safety plans and support initiatives like the Australian Water Safety Strategy 2030 Webinar series, engaging industry stakeholders and subject matter experts.
In addition to their work in Australia, some nonprofits have a global reach, addressing the worldwide water crisis. For instance, charity: water, founded by Scott Harrison, funds water, sanitation, and hygiene ("WASH") programs for rural communities worldwide. They have funded over 120,000 water projects in 29 countries, serving more than 16 million people. Their commitment to transparency and documentation has made them a leader in the nonprofit sector and a trusted organization among supporters and charity watchdogs.
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How big waves attract thrill-seeking surfers
Big waves in Australia, such as The Right, attract thrill-seeking surfers due to their size and power. The Right, located off the southern coast of Western Australia, is considered one of the most dangerous and challenging waves globally due to its heavy, shallow, and unpredictable nature. The wave breaks over a shallow reef, creating a large, hollow tube that can reach up to 20 feet (6 meters) in height. Its steep drop and barrel section make it appealing to experienced and adventurous surfers seeking a thrill.
Surfers like Tom Lowe are drawn to big waves in Australia and other locations like Hawaii, Mexico, and Portugal. Lowe mentions the appeal of paddling into big waves, describing it as "pure" and giving a sense of control. He also acknowledges the fear factor, where the body's instinct is to run away, but the thrill of facing that fear and dropping into a massive wave is a driving force for many surfers.
The pursuit of the perfect wave is a lifelong quest for some surfers. They travel the world, chasing big swells and unique breaks, hoping to find that ultimate wave they have been working towards. This quest for perfection fuels the attraction to big waves in Australia and elsewhere.
The rarity and challenge of big waves also contribute to their allure. Locations like the Mentawai Islands offer flawless barrels and crystal-clear waters, creating a surfer's dream. Other spots, such as Mavericks in California and Jaws off the coast of Maui, are known for their monstrous waves and are considered the ultimate big wave playgrounds, separating the men from the boys.
While the dangers of big wave surfing cannot be overstated, with surfers suffering serious injuries or even death, the thrill of conquering these giants is irresistible to some. Safety equipment and support crews have improved survival rates, but the inherent risks remain. Big waves in Australia, with their power, size, and unique characteristics, will continue to attract thrill-seeking surfers from around the globe.
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Frequently asked questions
A combination of factors, including wind, underwater rock formations, and low-pressure systems, can contribute to the formation of big waves in Australia.
The Right, a wave off the southern coast of Western Australia, is widely considered one of the biggest and most dangerous waves in the world. Other areas that have experienced big waves include New South Wales, Victoria, Queensland, Brisbane, Byron Bay, and the Gold Coast.
The big waves in Australia can be extremely dangerous and have resulted in fatalities. In April 2025, hazardous waves battered the east coast, resulting in the deaths of at least six people. Additionally, data from Surf Life Saving Australia showed that 630 people drowned at unpatrolled beaches over a ten-year period.
When big waves or hazardous surf warnings are in effect, it is important to follow safety advice from local authorities and only visit patrolled beaches. Activities such as rock fishing, boating, and swimming should be avoided during these conditions.
