Lyla Lindsey
Australian boots are often made in China due to the high cost of manufacturing in Australia and the difficulty of finding local footwear brands to work with. This has led to the offshoring of production, with 96% of UGG boots, a quintessential Australian shoe, being manufactured in Asia, primarily in China. While some consumers express concerns about the quality of Chinese-made goods, there are Chinese brands that offer stellar quality, customer service, and transparency. Additionally, China has a rich history of high-quality craft goods, and small craft businesses in the country can produce boots with the same level of craftsmanship as family workshops elsewhere.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Quality | Some believe that Australian-made boots are more durable than Chinese-made boots. However, there are Chinese brands that are stellar with their quality. |
| Country of origin labelling | Australian manufacturers typically display the country of origin on their products. If the label says "Made in Australia", the UGG boots are Australian-made. |
| Manufacturing location | The majority of UGG boots (about 96%) are made in Asia, including China, Vietnam, and the Philippines. Only a small number of Australian brands manufacture boots locally. |
| Cost | Manufacturing footwear in Australia is more expensive due to the long manufacturing process and difficulty in sourcing materials. |
| Craftsmanship | Chinese-made boots can be crafted with the same level of craftsmanship as those made in other countries. |
| Materials | Chinese-made boots may use materials from other countries, such as Italian leather. |
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What You'll Learn
- Ugg boots are Australian, but the US company Deckers licenses the name worldwide
- Australian manufacturers cannot sell Ugg boots outside of Australia or they will be sued by Deckers
- Australian-made shoes are hard to find in Australia, with few local footwear brands
- Australian-made shoes are expensive, with a long manufacturing process
- China has a rich history of high-quality craft goods, including boots
Ugg boots are Australian, but the US company Deckers licenses the name worldwide
Ugg boots are a type of sheepskin boot that originated in Australia. They were first popularised by surfers in the 1950s and 1960s, and the term "ugg" is considered a generic name for this style of boot in Australia and New Zealand. In 1971, Shane Steadman registered the trademark "UGH-BOOT" on the Australian Trade Mark Registry, which was later sold to Ugg Holdings Inc. in 1995.
However, in the same year, Ugg Holdings Inc. was acquired by Deckers Brands, a US company, for $14.6 million. Deckers then registered Ugg Holdings' trademarks, including the "UGG AUSTRALIA" label, in Australia. Deckers has since pursued legal action against Australian manufacturers who use the term "ugg" when selling overseas, arguing that Americans do not recognise "ugg" as a descriptive term but only as a brand name.
As a result of Deckers' trademark rights, Australian manufacturers cannot sell Ugg boots outside of Australia without facing legal repercussions. This has caused significant backlash, with many people boycotting Deckers in favour of supporting Australian makers. Additionally, Deckers has been criticised for claiming global trademark rights over a term that was already generic in its country of origin.
Despite the controversy, Deckers has expanded the UGG brand internationally, with the company experiencing double-digit sales growth in the late 1990s. UGG boots have been featured on Oprah Winfrey's show and worn by celebrities, contributing to their surge in popularity. Deckers has also collaborated with other brands, such as Jimmy Choo and Swarovski, to launch capsule collections. In 2016, Deckers rebranded from "UGG Australia" to simply "UGG", referring to the brand as "Californian" rather than "Australian" following investigations into misleading and deceptive branding.
In summary, while Ugg boots are Australian in origin, the US company Deckers now licenses the name worldwide and aggressively protects its trademark rights. This has led to a complex legal battle and sparked discussions about cultural sustainability and the protection of heritage.
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Australian manufacturers cannot sell Ugg boots outside of Australia or they will be sued by Deckers
Ugg boots are widely understood to have been invented in Australia, with their first documented appearances on surfers' feet in the 1950s. In the late 1970s, Australian entrepreneur Brian Smith took the style to California before registering the name as a brand in the United States. Smith sold the company to Deckers in 1995, and Deckers trademarked it as "UGG Australia". The company has since dropped "Australia" from the name and has aggressively pursued Australian makers who attempt to use the term "ugg" when selling overseas.
Deckers own the rights to use "ugg" internationally and have the trademarks to "ugh", "ugh boots", and "UGG Australia". They have issued cease and desist letters to several small Australian manufacturers and pursued legal action against those who continue to use the term "ugg" internationally. In 2019, Deckers won an infringement case against Australian manufacturer Eddie Oygur, arguing that Americans did not recognize "ugg" as a descriptive term but only as a brand name. Oygur was ordered to pay Deckers $US450,000 in statutory damages and may face additional legal costs in the millions.
UGG Since 1974, an established maker of the boots that predates the establishment of the Deckers brand, is the latest company to be hit with litigation from Deckers. The company has been forced to rebrand as "Since 74" outside of Australia to avoid legal repercussions. While Deckers have won the legal right to the "ugg" name, Australian manufacturers continue to defend their cultural legitimacy through local production and connection to the product's heritage.
Australian manufacturers cannot sell Ugg boots outside of Australia under the "ugg" name without risking legal action from Deckers, who aggressively protect their trademark rights. This has stifled the business of many small local manufacturers, either directly or indirectly, and forced some companies to stop exporting Ugg boots altogether. While Deckers-produced UGGs are manufactured in China, Vietnam, and other Asian countries, Australian manufacturers like UGG Since 1974 continue to handcraft boots in Australia using local materials and labor, maintaining a tradition that predates Deckers' involvement with the product.
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Australian-made shoes are hard to find in Australia, with few local footwear brands
Australian-made shoes are hard to find in Australia due to a shortage of local footwear brands and the high cost of manufacturing. This challenge has become so well-known that it has even earned a place in local fashion lore. For instance, at his first Australian fashion week show in 1996, designer Akira Isogawa sent his models down the runway in red socks because he could not afford shoes.
There are a few remaining Australian shoe manufacturers, such as Blundstone, which makes 200,000 work boots a year in Hobart, and RM Williams, which manufactures in several locations across Australia. However, the high cost of manufacturing in Australia means that most local designers are left with no choice but to opt for high street brands, and even then, options are limited. It can cost upwards of $1,000 a pair to have shoes made especially for a collection, and most runway shows feature more than 20 outfits.
The long manufacturing process also means that shoe styles must be decided upon before the rest of the collection has been designed, which is often impractical for designers. Additionally, the makers are harder to find and more selective about who they work with.
However, there are still a few local footwear brands in Australia, such as Emu Australia, which produces a classic range of shoes that are 100% made in Australia. Melbourne-based brand Kuwaii also makes a range of shoes in Australia, including leather and vegan platform sandals, lace-ups, and boots. For those seeking Australian-made shoes, there are options available, but they may come with a higher price tag and require more effort to source.
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Australian-made shoes are expensive, with a long manufacturing process
Australian-made shoes are expensive due to various factors, including the cost of onshore production, proper wages, and the time-consuming manufacturing process. The latter involves numerous steps, from design and pre-production to assembling and finishing.
The first step in the manufacturing process is the creation of a shoe last, a mold that mimics a human foot and gives the shoe its shape. Lasts can be made of wood, metal, or plastic, and they are critical in ensuring the shoe's fit, heel height, and overall design. After the last is created, the insole is temporarily attached to it with nails, and a rubber ridge is added to allow for the shaft to be sewn to the welt. The upper is then lasted and pulled tight to give the shoe its final shape before being joined with the insole using hot glue and nails. This process can take anywhere from 1.5 hours to 2 weeks.
Following this, the welt is sewn around the edge of the upper, and the shoe is fitted with the rubber ridge, lining, and upper in a single step using a Goodyear stitching machine. This intricate process, which originated in 1872, is known as the Goodyear stitch for men's shoes. Other construction methods include Adhesive and Blake.
The number of steps in the shoe manufacturing process can range from 70 to 300, depending on the style and type of shoe. Handmade shoes, in particular, go through a lengthy process before they can be worn. While modern machinery has reduced the time required for each step, the overall process remains time-intensive and laborious.
The high cost of Australian-made shoes can be attributed to the extensive manufacturing process, skilled labor, and adherence to award wages, as mandated by Fair Work, Australia. The local industry also faces challenges in producing footwear, particularly for new designers who may lack specific contacts or budgets to manufacture offshore. As a result, Australian-made shoes tend to be more expensive and are often limited to work boots or small collections by local designers.
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China has a rich history of high-quality craft goods, including boots
China has a rich history of producing high-quality craft goods, including boots. While some people may have concerns about the quality of Chinese-made footwear, there are brands that excel in terms of quality, customer service, and transparency. For instance, the founder of Meermin, Pepe Albaladejo, chose to manufacture part of their shoes in China, not because of cheap labour, but because of the well-established expertise that can be readily employed.
Leather crafting is a time-honoured tradition that dates back thousands of years, with evidence of leatherworking found in ancient civilizations like the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. The art of leather crafting has been passed down through generations, with each culture adding its unique techniques and styles. China, with its long history of craftsmanship, is no exception.
In the 19th century, the introduction of leather crafting machines revolutionized the industry, allowing for the mass production of boots and shoes, and new innovations in design. China, with its established leather industry, would have benefited from these advancements, further refining their craft.
Today, leather crafting remains a thriving art, and China continues to be a significant player in this field. Chinese manufacturers have gained a reputation for producing high-quality goods, including luxury leather items, that rival well-known brands in terms of quality and price. For instance, Chinese boot company Iron Boots has gained recognition for its excellent construction methods, with their hand-welted boots offering superior durability and flexibility.
While some may associate Chinese manufacturing with knockoff products, it is important to recognize that the country has a long history of producing fine goods, including high-quality boots. The resurgence of interest in handmade and locally crafted goods, including leather items, has also provided an opportunity for skilled craftsmen and independent leather bag makers in China to showcase their expertise and create unique, durable products.
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Frequently asked questions
The majority of the world's Ugg boots (about 96%) are made in Asia, including China, Vietnam and the Philippines. This is due to the difficulty in sourcing shoes from Australia, the high cost of manufacturing there, and the fact that the UGG trademark is owned by an American company, Deckers Outdoor Corporation, which manufactures Ugg boots offshore.
No, it is possible to buy genuine, Australian-made Ugg boots, but they are harder to find. If you want to buy Australian-made Ugg boots, look for a sew-in label that says 'Made in Australia'.
Yes, Australian boots may be made in other Asian countries such as Vietnam and the Philippines, as well as in Australia itself.
