Welwitschia: Angola's Ancient Desert Survivors

Welwitschia, scientifically known as Welwitschia mirabilis, is a botanical marvel and the national flower of Angola. This remarkable plant, with its distinctive appearance and intriguing characteristics, has captured the imagination of many. Named after Austrian botanist Friedrich Welwitsch, who discovered it in 1859, Welwitschia is endemic to the Namib Desert within Namibia and Angola. The best place to see Welwitschia in Angola is along the Welwitschia Trail near Swakopmund, West Namibia. This popular tourist destination offers a luxurious way to view these ancient plants, which can live for over 1,000 years. The trail takes visitors through the moon landscape, providing magnificent viewpoints, and leads to a giant, very old Welwitschia plant.

Welwitschia Plains near Swakopmund

The Welwitschia Plains near Swakopmund are home to the largest concentration of Welwitschia plants in the world. These fascinating plants are unique to the Namib Desert, which spans Namibia and Angola, and are a proposed UNESCO World Heritage Site. The plains lie between the Khan and Swakop Rivers, about 30 to 50 kilometres inland from the seaside town of Swakopmund, within the Namib-Naukluft Park.

The Welwitschia self-drive route, also known as the Welwitschia Drive, offers a unique opportunity to discover the beauty of the Namib Desert and its fascinating flora. The round trip from Swakopmund takes approximately four hours, and a permit is required to enter the park. Along the way, you will encounter various points of interest, including:

• The Moon Landscape: A spectacular moonscape formed by the Swakop River cutting through soft surface deposits. It bears a striking resemblance to the moon and has been featured in movies such as "A Space Odyssey."
• Lichen Fields: The Namib's misty nights support the most extensive lichen fields in the world, with a variety of lichens growing inside rocks, on rocks, and blowing in the wind.
• World War I Remains: Remnants of a South African troop camp from 1915, including broken bottles, rusted cans, and tracks from early tracked vehicles.
• Dolorite Ridges: A black ridge of dolerite, a hard rock that weathers more slowly than surrounding rocks, creating a thin black band along the hilltops.
• The Swakop River Valley: A lush valley in contrast to the desert plains, featuring Camelthorn, Tarmarik, and Anaboom trees nourished by an underground river.

The main attraction along the Welwitschia Drive is, of course, the Welwitschia Mirabilis plants themselves. These unique plants are essentially coniferous dwarf trees with only two leaves that continue to grow throughout their lifespan. Some of these plants are estimated to be over 1,500 years old, earning them the title of "living fossils." The oldest known plant colony is found along the Swakopmund location of the Welwitschia Drive, with some plants of remarkable size.

When visiting the Welwitschia Plains, it is recommended to join a guided tour or use a 4x4 vehicle as the roads can be extremely rugged, especially after the Moon Landscape turnoff. Remember to obtain the necessary permits and respect the fragile ecosystem of this unique and fascinating natural area.

Iona National Park

The park has a rich history, having been proclaimed as a reserve in 1937 and upgraded to a national park in 1964. However, the Angolan Civil War greatly disrupted the area, leading to poaching and infrastructure destruction. In recent years, there have been efforts by local and international entities to restore the park's infrastructure and promote tourism.

The best time for wildlife viewing in the park is between June and September when the weather is cooler and drier. Visitors can also enjoy photographic safaris and hikes, as well as cultural interactions with local tribes such as the Himba, Kimbundu, and Mucubal. However, it is important to note that there is currently no accommodation available within the park itself.

The Namib Desert

The climate of the Namib Desert varies significantly. Temperatures along the coast are generally stable, ranging between 9°C and 20°C (48°F and 68°F) annually. In contrast, the inland temperatures are more variable, with summer daytime temperatures exceeding 45°C (113°F) and freezing nights. The desert experiences low precipitation, ranging from 2 millimetres (0.079 inches) in the aridest regions to 200 millimetres (7.9 inches) near the escarpment. The coastal regions are often enveloped in fog, created by the collision of the cold Benguela Current and warm air from the Hadley Cell, providing a vital source of moisture for the desert's flora and fauna.

The coast of Namibia and Angola

The Welwitschia Mirabilis, or simply Welwitschia, is a plant endemic to the Namib Desert, which stretches along the Atlantic coasts of Angola and Namibia. This plant is named after Friedrich Welwitsch, the Austrian botanist who discovered it in Angola in 1859. What makes Welwitschia truly astonishing is its ability to thrive in the extremely arid conditions of the Namib, one of the oldest and driest deserts in the world.

The Namib Desert spans over 2,000 kilometres along the coast, with its northernmost portion known as the Moçâmedes Desert. The desert is characterised by sand seas near the coast and gravel plains and mountain outcrops further inland. The sand dunes, reaching up to 300 metres in height, are the second-largest in the world. The coastal regions experience stable temperatures ranging from 9°C to 20°C, while the interior can see summer temperatures soar above 45°C.

The Welwitschia plant itself is quite distinctive, with two long, strap-shaped leaves that grow continuously throughout its lifetime. These leaves can reach several metres in length and become gnarled and twisted by the desert winds. The roots of the Welwitschia are also impressive, with a dense network of fine roots close to the surface and a taproot that can reach groundwater. While it was once believed that Welwitschia obtained water through its leaves, it is now understood that the leaves are adapted to store water, and the plant primarily relies on moisture from coastal sea fogs.

In Namibia, one of the best places to see Welwitschia is the Welwitschia Plains, located about 50 kilometres east of the town of Swakopmund. This area is home to an estimated 6,000 plants, including some that are centuries old. The drive to the Welwitschia Plains takes visitors through breathtaking landscapes and offers a chance to spot wildlife such as oryx antelopes, rhinos, and zebras. However, it's important to note that a 4x4 vehicle is recommended for this trip as the roads can be challenging.

The area between the Khan and Swakop rivers

The area around the Swakop River mouth and the surrounding dunes are known for their rich birdlife and unusual plant species, including the Welwitschia, which is endemic to the Namib Desert within Namibia and Angola. The Welwitschia is a "living fossil", with some specimens estimated to be between 1000 and 1500 years old. The plant is named after the Austrian botanist Friedrich Welwitsch, who described it in Angola in 1859. The Welwitschia has a dense network of roots close to the ground surface and a taproot that can reach groundwater. The leaves of the plant are capable of storing water, and it is also believed to obtain water from the regular fog that drifts in from the sea.

The Welwitschia can be found in the area known as the Welwitschia Plains, about 50 km east of Swakopmund. This specific plant is estimated to be at least 1000 years old, and there are an estimated 6000 plants in the area. The Welwitschia Drive is a popular tourist route that leads from Swakopmund to the fenced-in old Welwitschia at the end of the Welwitschia Plains.

Frequently asked questions