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Austria in the 1930s was a turbulent time for the country, which was still reeling from the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire after World War I. The decade saw economic instability, political unrest, and the rise of Nazism, culminating in the annexation of Austria by Germany in 1938. Despite the turmoil, Austrian culture thrived, with Vienna remaining a hub for music, art, and literature. In terms of fashion, the 1930s saw the influence of Austrian Tyrol and Alpine styles, with Tyrolean hats, ski clothes, and embroidery gaining popularity. The dirndl skirt, with its full silhouette and folk-inspired embroidery, became an international trend, promoted by the operetta The White Horse Inn and the Trapp Family Singers. Viennese tailoring for men also left its mark, with elegant lounge suits and wide-legged trousers.
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What You'll Learn
'Tyrolean' hats, ski clothes, and embroidery
The 1930s in Austria was a turbulent time, with the country facing economic and political challenges. However, Austrian culture continued to thrive, with Vienna remaining a hub for music, art, and literature.
During this time, "Tyrolean" hats, ski clothes, and embroidery briefly gained popularity. The Tyrolean hat, also known as the Tirolerhut or Alpine hat, originated from the Tyrol region in the Alps, encompassing parts of modern-day Austria, Germany, Italy, and Switzerland. It is typically made of green felt, with a tapered crown and a brim approximately the width of a hand. The hats are often adorned with a coloured, corded hatband and a decorative spray of flowers, feathers, or a "brush" made from chamois antelope hair.
In the 1930s, skiing emerged as a popular sport in the US, influenced by Austrian skiers who introduced the sport to Vermont. This led to a trend in ski fashion, including the "Tyrolean ski suit" and "gay embroidery on the mittens," as described in a 1936 issue of Woman's Home Companion. The functionality of ski clothing also improved with the introduction of lastex in the mid-1930s, allowing for stretchy knit bands at the trouser legs and sleeve cuffs.
The "peasant blouse," often featuring embroidery, also made a comeback in the late 1930s, influenced by the return of full, puffy sleeves. This style was reflected in a 1938 Hollywood pattern for a peasant blouse. Embroidery was not limited to clothing, as accessories like knitting bags and headscarves also showcased decorative needlework.
While the influence of Austrian Tyrol fashion extended beyond clothing, the onset of World War II led to a shift in consumer preferences, as anything associated with Germany or Austria fell out of favour in the US market.
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Wide sleeves and contrasting waistcoats
Although the 1930s in Austria was a turbulent time politically and economically, fashion continued to thrive. The country was influenced by British, Italian, French, and Spanish styles, but it also had its own distinct fashion sense.
Waistcoats, or vests, were an essential part of men's suiting in the 1930s. In Austria, double-breasted waistcoats with deep V-cuts and lapels were popular, and these were often paired with suits of a contrasting colour. For example, a single-breasted navy blue suit could be paired with a dove grey waistcoat. This trend of contrasting colours extended to women's fashion as well, with coat and dress combinations made of contrasting fabrics but lined with the same fabric becoming popular.
The 1930s also saw a shift towards more casual and sports-influenced styles, with wider lapels and more casual trousers. The lounge suit was extremely popular for men, with a slightly lower button stance and shorter back length compared to the 1920s. Trousers were cut with multiple pleats and high-rise waistlines, and straight-leg trousers became tapered at the bottom for the first time around 1935.
Overall, the fashion of 1930s Austria reflected a mix of international and local influences, with a focus on wide sleeves, contrasting waistcoats, and a more casual, sports-influenced style.
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Trousers were cut wide
While Austrian fashion in the 1930s was influenced by British styles, the way the Austrians interpreted these styles was quite different from what was worn in Britain or America at the time.
In the 1930s, men's clothing in Austria was characterised by wide-leg trousers, with a natural silhouette. This meant that the trousers were cut "wide enough", which, compared to modern trends, was considered very wide. The natural silhouette also included slightly unpadded or unpadded shoulders, a tiny bit of drape over the chest, and notched lapels. The lapels were cut to look debonair and pointy without a lot of belly. The closing button was positioned within half an inch of the natural waistline.
Trousers were often worn with blazers and sports jackets, reflecting the ongoing influence of sports on men's fashion in the 1930s. This influence also led to the popularity of flannel trousers and open-necked shirts. While trouser legs were not as wide as the previous decade's Oxford bags, they continued to be wide at the bottom and were worn creased and cuffed.
The style of the trousers also depended on the type of coat or jacket they were worn with. Trousers worn with single-breasted coats featured cuffs, while cuff-less trousers were the norm for tuxedos and tailcoats. The fabric of the trousers was also a factor, as certain fabrics were considered more suitable for cuffs than others. For example, cuffs were recommended for plaid or windowpane fabrics, while chalk or pinstripe suits were better without cuffs.
In addition to the wide-leg silhouette, men's trousers in Austria also featured belts or suspenders. This was especially true for older boys, whose clothing choices often mirrored those of adult men. Sweaters or sweater vests were commonly worn over collared cotton shirts, and wool and flannel suits were popular for more formal occasions.
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German cultural influence
During the 1930s, German cultural influence on fashion in Austria was significant, with several factors contributing to its prominence. Firstly, the rise of Nazi Germany from 1933 onwards played a pivotal role in shaping Austrian fashion. The Nazis actively encouraged the wearing of Germanic folk costumes, such as the dirndl, a traditional feminine dress consisting of a close-fitting bodice, a blouse, a wide high-waisted skirt, and an apron. They utilised the dirndl-wearing blonde German woman as a symbol of pan-German identity and the ideal of the hardworking and fertile German female in their propaganda images. This propaganda was instrumental in shaping public perception and normalising the adoption of Germanic fashion.
Secondly, Berlin's emergence as an international fashion capital in the 1930s, attracting even Parisian designers, further solidified German influence in Austrian fashion. However, the Nazi regime's anti-Semitic campaigns targeted Jewish-owned fashion businesses in Berlin, forcing them to sell and confiscating their assets. This resulted in a loss of talent and diversity in the German fashion industry, with tragic consequences for Jewish families.
The 1930s also witnessed a surge in Hollywood's influence on global fashion trends, and Austrian fashion was no exception. Film stars, through their on-screen costumes and off-screen style, captivated the public's imagination and influenced their wardrobe choices. Additionally, fashion magazines, including Vogue and Glamour, played a pivotal role in disseminating fashion tips and immersing readers in the glamorous world of the decade's fashion, including Germanic and Alpine-inspired styles.
Moreover, the economic hardships of the Great Depression influenced fashion choices in Austria during the 1930s. Simplicity and practicality characterised the era's fashion, with individuals prioritising quality over quantity. This shift towards sustainability and DIY fashion encouraged the adoption of versatile garments, such as the dirndl, which could be adapted to various prints and styles.
Lastly, the promotion of folk costumes, or "tracht", in the German-speaking world, including Austria, served as a response to French-inspired fashions. This movement, rooted in German romanticism, sought to strengthen German cultural heritage and national identity. The dirndl, in particular, gained popularity beyond its Alpine origins, spreading to eastern Austria and becoming perceived as the Austrian national dress.
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Folk costumes
Dirndl
The dirndl, a type of dress featuring skirts with bodices, aprons, and blouses, has a long history in Austria and neighbouring regions. By the 1930s, the dirndl was widely perceived as the Austrian national dress. Its popularity was fuelled by its depiction in the 1930 operetta "The White Horse Inn," which showcased an idyllic image of the Austrian Alps. The operetta's heroine, an innkeeper, wore a dirndl, and her fashion choice influenced women across social classes. The 1930s trend towards broader shoulders, full skirts, higher hemlines, and tailored waists aligned with the silhouette of the dirndl, further contributing to its widespread adoption.
Lederhosen
Lederhosen, traditional leather shorts or trousers, were also a part of Austrian folk costume. Notably, members of the royal courts in Austria, including Emperor Franz Joseph, would wear lederhosen while hunting. This royal endorsement of folk costume promoted its adoption among the upper and wealthier middle classes.
Tyrolean Hats and Embroidery
In the late 1930s, "Tyrolean" hats, ski clothes, and embroidery enjoyed a brief period of popularity. This trend extended beyond Austria and was reflected in American fashion magazines, which featured Alpine fashions, including clothing from Austrian firms like Lanz of Salzburg.
Viennese Tailoring
Viennese tailoring also left its mark on the fashion of the 1930s. Suits with natural silhouettes, slightly padded or unpadded shoulders, a subtle drape over the chest, lower gorge, and notched lapels were characteristic of this style. Trousers were still cut wide enough, a contrast to the slimmer cuts of modern trends.
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Frequently asked questions
In the 1930s, the dirndl became an international fashion phenomenon, inspired by the operetta *The White Horse Inn* and its heroine. The dirndl is a type of dress in the style of Austrian folk costume, often featuring an apron, deep décolletage, full skirts, higher hemlines, broader shoulders, and tailored waists. "Tyrolean" hats, ski clothes, and embroidery were also briefly popular in the late 1930s. For men, the lounge suit was in fashion, with slightly longer coats and lower buttoning points. Trousers were still cut wide enough, and double-breasted contrasting waistcoats were paired with suits.
Austria faced a turbulent decade in the 1930s. The country was dealing with the after-effects of World War I, which had left it smaller and less powerful. The Great Depression hit the country hard, causing widespread unemployment and poverty. Political unrest ensued, with the two main parties—the Christian Social Party and the Social Democratic Workers' Party—clashing frequently. In July 1934, Dollfuss was assassinated by Austrian Nazis in a failed coup attempt. His successor, Kurt Schuschnigg, continued authoritarian policies while trying to maintain Austria's independence from Nazi Germany. However, in March 1938, Germany annexed Austria, ending its independence.
German was the official language of Austria in the 1930s and the primary means of communication for most people. However, the country exhibited a complex tapestry of languages and dialects due to its diverse geography and cultural influences. Regional dialects, such as Austro-Bavarian, were prevalent, especially in the southern regions. Multilingualism was also common, with many Austrians speaking Hungarian, Czech, Polish, and Italian, in addition to German.
Vienna, the cultural heart of Austria, remained a center for music, art, and literature. Sigmund Freud continued his work in the city until he fled the country due to his Jewish heritage. Additionally, the operetta *The White Horse Inn* and the film *Heidi* contributed to the popularity of Austrian folk costumes internationally.
