Exploring Potosí, Bolivia: A City Of Rich History And Culture

Potosi, Bolivia, is a city that sits 4,090 metres above sea level, making it the world's highest elevated city with more than 10,000 inhabitants. It is mostly known for its silver mining industry and is home to the most dangerous mine in the world. The city was founded in the 1500s as a Spanish mining town, and the silver produced here was so abundant that the term worth a Potosi was used to describe something of high value.

Today, Potosi is far from your typical tourist destination. The weather is often overcast and bitterly cold, and the city's buildings are in decay. However, it is an obligatory destination for anyone who wants to learn about the history of the modern world.

- Torotoro National Park

- Casa Nacional de la Moneda

- Santa Teresa Convent Museum

- Plaza 10 de Noviembre

- Cerro Rico

Visit the silver mines of Cerro Rico

The silver mines of Cerro Rico, or "Rich Mountain", are a must-see when visiting Potosi. This infamous mountain, also known as the "mountain that eats men", has a long and bloody history, providing vast quantities of silver for the Spanish Empire during the colonial era.

Today, Cerro Rico is still an active mine, though dangerously so. The working conditions are harsh and life-threatening, with miners facing silicosis, emphysema, and various cancers due to asbestos, arsenic, and other carcinogens. The life expectancy of miners is between 40-50 years. Despite the dangers, the miners of Cerro Rico have few other options for employment, continuing to extract less profitable minerals such as lead, tin, and zinc.

Various tour companies offer trips into the mines, providing an opportunity to witness first-hand the working conditions and meet the miners. These tours are not for the faint-hearted, as they involve navigating dark, narrow, dusty tunnels with poor oxygen levels. Tours typically last 4-5 hours and include a safety briefing, protective gear, and a visit to a market to purchase gifts for the miners.

When choosing a tour company, it is important to consider both safety and ethical responsibilities towards the miners. Some recommended companies include Koala Tours, who hire former miners as guides, and Greengo Tours, who offer English-language tours.

Tours usually start early in the morning, around 7-8:45 am, and cost around $10-20 USD. It is not necessary to book in advance, as tours can often be arranged through your hotel. However, online booking may be preferable if you are short on time.

Keep in mind that the mine environment is inherently dangerous, and even the most reputable tour companies cannot guarantee your safety. You will be required to sign a disclaimer acknowledging the risks before entering the mines.

A Historical Overview

The extraction of silver ore in Cerro Rico began in 1545 when a Quechua silver miner, Diego de Huallpa, discovered the mountain by chance while searching for an Inca shrine. The Spanish Crown soon learned of this discovery and exploited the site, using forced labour from indigenous peoples and African slaves.

During the colonial era, slaves worked in brutal conditions, with 6-month shifts, 7 days a week, for 20 hours a day. As a result, most never made it out alive. The silver mined from Cerro Rico funded the Spanish colonisation of the Americas, and the phrase "worth a Potosi" was used to describe immense richness.

By the time Bolivia gained independence, the mines were depleted, and the city of Potosi fell into decline. Today, the mountain continues to sink a few centimetres each year, and UNESCO has added Cerro Rico and Potosi to its list of endangered sites due to "uncontrolled mining operations".

El Tio, the Devil-Like God of the Underworld

Miners in Cerro Rico believe they are at the mercy of a sinister devil-like god of the underworld called "El Tio". Shrines to El Tio can be found above each mine shaft, featuring a horned figure with a large penis to symbolise masculinity and power. Miners make offerings of alcohol, cigarettes, and coca leaves to El Tio, praying for safety and a good yield of minerals.

Explore the Casa Nacional de la Moneda

The Casa Nacional de la Moneda is a comprehensive museum that details the history of Potosi. Originally a mint under Spanish rule, the Casa Nacional de la Moneda was responsible for converting mined silver into coins. The minting process, along with the city's history of silver production, is exhibited in the museum.

The museum houses 20 galleries that cover a range of topics, from Bolivian weapons to archaeology. One of the highlights is the display of impressive coinage machinery, which includes the first locomotive in the country. The guided tour of the interior of the mint is a must-do, as it provides a rich history of the site. The tour is mandatory and takes about two hours, with guides following different itineraries in Spanish, English, or French.

The Casa Nacional de la Moneda also showcases colonial artefacts and exhibits that detail the city's silver production. The building itself is an important part of Bolivia's architectural heritage, constructed between 1759 and 1773. It is considered the most important mint built in Latin America and the Caribbean.

The museum provides an insightful look into the history of currency and the birth of capitalism in Europe during the 16th century. Visitors can learn about the significance of extracting money from the mines of Potosi and the impact it had on the region's socio-cultural and economic landscape.

Admire the architecture of Plaza 10 de Noviembre

Plaza 10 de Noviembre is the heart of Potosi, surrounded by stunning colonial architecture. The square dates back to the end of the 19th century and was remodelled in 2014, with new species of plants, four water fountains, and restored sculptures. It is a great place for people-watching and soaking up the vibrant street life of the city.

The square is adorned with four sculptures: the Statue of Liberty, a heron in one of the fountains, a muse, and a cherub. The buildings surrounding the square include Casas Reales, the first Casa de la Moneda, the main church, the town hall, and Empedradillo. The first Casa de la Moneda is a historic mint showcasing colonial artefacts, impressive coinage machinery, and exhibits detailing the city's silver production.

The square was formerly known as "Plaza de Regocijo" due to the celebrations that took place here twice a year since 1890, including carnivals, bullfights, and national holidays. The square is also the site of the city's main cathedral, which offers incredible views of the city and Cerro Rico from its bell tower.

The architecture of the surrounding buildings reflects the historical and cultural significance of the city. The colonial-era buildings, with their grand facades and intricate details, showcase the wealth and prosperity of the city during the Spanish colonial era. The square is a testament to the city's rich history and cultural heritage, making it a popular destination for tourists and locals alike.

Tour the San Francisco of Potosi Convent and Temple

The San Francisco of Potosi Convent and Temple is a must-see for anyone visiting the city. Here is a detailed guide to help you plan your tour:

Getting There

The San Francisco of Potosi Convent and Temple is located on Calle Tarija 47, at the corner of Nogales, in the heart of Potosi, Bolivia. You can easily reach it by bus, which is an adventure in itself, offering an unforgettable experience of travelling with the locals.

History

This site is a testament to the city's rich history, dating back to the Spanish colonial era. Potosi was founded in the 1500s as a Spanish mining town, and the convent and temple reflect the architectural styles of that time.

Architecture

The convent is an outstanding example of 16th-century religious architecture, while the church features symbolic cupolas. The rooftop offers incredible views of the city and Cerro Rico, the famed silver mountain. The red-tiled roof is a great place to relax and take in the surroundings without the noise and pollution of the streets below.

Art and Artifacts

A walk around the grounds will reveal incredible catacombs and beautiful colonial art. Inside the church, you'll find mestizo baroque influences and a statue of Christ made from cactus wood, with hair that miraculously grows.

Tours

Guided tours are available for 20 Bolivianos, and they include access to the museum and the rooftop. The tour usually lasts about 40 minutes, and it's recommended to check the schedule in advance as the site is closed on Sundays.

Practical Information

The San Francisco of Potosi Convent and Temple is ranked #6 out of 20 things to do in Potosi on TripAdvisor, reflecting its popularity among visitors. It is located near other attractions, such as the Casa Nacional de la Moneda, a historic mint-turned-museum, and the Plaza 10 de Noviembre, the bustling heart of the city.

Reviews

Reviews on TripAdvisor praise the rooftop views, the beauty of the architecture, and the knowledgeable tour guides. Some reviews mention erratic opening hours, so it is advised to check the schedule before planning your visit.

Tips

If you're staying in the Historic Centre or around Plaza 10 de Noviembre, you'll be within easy reach of this attraction and many others.

Check out the museums and galleries in the Santa Teresa Convent

The Santa Teresa Convent, or the Museo Santa Teresa, is a museum celebrating the religious and colonial history of Potosi. The building is a beautiful example of Spanish-style architecture, with two idyllic courtyards surrounded by the museum space on the ground and first floors.

The museum offers a three-hour tour, which is included in the price of entry. The tour gives an insight into the daily lives of the nuns who lived in the convent from 1691 onwards. The convent is still operational, so you may even see the occasional nun walking the courtyards. The tour takes you through countless rooms, including galleries filled with art, antiques, and hand-painted porcelain dishes.

Among the exhibits, you will find a collection of organs and musical instruments used for worship, paintings of saints and martyrs, a room of keys and locks, and graphic sculptures of Christ at the Crucifixion. The museum also houses a collection of jewellery that was presented to the Virgin.

The Museo Santa Teresa is considered one of the best museums of sacred art in Latin America, recognised by historians and art experts.

Frequently asked questions