Exploring Potosí: A Bolivian Adventure Guide

Potosi, Bolivia, is a city steeped in history. Once the economic centre of Bolivia, it is famous for being the world's highest elevated city with over 10,000 inhabitants, and for its silver mines, which were worked by indigenous people and African slaves during Spanish rule.

Today, visitors can take a tour of the mines, which are still active, and learn about the harsh working conditions that have taken the lives of an estimated 8 million people.

Other attractions include the Casa de la Moneda, the national mint of Bolivia; the colonial churches and buildings in the city centre; the hot springs in Tarapaya, a 30-minute drive away; and the food scene, which includes the city's iconic dish, Kalaphurka, a soup usually eaten for breakfast.

Visit the silver mines

The silver mines of Cerro Rico are what initially put Potosí on the map. For centuries, the mountain was a source of wealth and security, and it is estimated that as much as 80% of the world's silver came from this very mountain. The amount of silver extracted was so great that the term "worth a Potosí" was coined to describe something of high value.

Today, the mines are still open and about a thousand miners work as part of a cooperative, searching for less profitable metals such as lead, zinc, and copper, with the hope of finding silver. The conditions, however, remain dangerous and miners' life expectancy is between 40 and 50 years.

You can take a guided tour of the mines to learn about the history and see the working conditions of the miners. Most tours start around 7 am and include a safety briefing and equipment such as a safety jacket, pants, rubber boots, helmets, and an electric lamp. During the tour, you will meet miners, learn about their daily work, and see the small tunnels where they work. The tour also includes a visit to a market where you can buy gifts for the miners, such as coca leaves, soda, or dynamite.

Please note that the mines are not for the faint of heart. The tunnels are small and dusty, and the oxygen is sparse due to the high altitude of the city. If you suffer from claustrophobia, you may want to reconsider this tour.

Choosing an Ethical Tour Company

There has been some debate about the morality of the poverty tourism associated with the Potosí mines. If you decide to take a tour, it is important to choose an ethical tour company. Some recommended companies include Koala Tours, which hires former miners as guides and also runs a hostel and a vegetarian café in town.

Film/Documentary Recommendations

If you want to learn more about the mines before your visit, it is recommended to watch the Vice documentary "Bolivia's Child Labourers".

Visit Casa de la Moneda

Visiting Casa de la Moneda is a must-do when in Potosi. This vast, elegant, and beautiful building takes up a whole city block and is considered by many specialists to be the most important building among the colonial architecture of South America.

The mansion is a national monument and houses valuable samples of paintings and sculptures, as well as historical objects such as the lamination machinery used to wedge coins, the main oven for silver foundry, and the collection of dies for coining money.

The Casa de la Moneda is also a museum and historical archive with 20 galleries that cover everything in Potosi's history, from Bolivian weapons to archaeology and, of course, the minting process. The building itself is also a historical treasure, with its thick walls, stone fountain, and mask of Bacchus (known as the mascaron) hung at the entrance.

The Casa de la Moneda offers a glimpse into the wealth and rich history of this city. During its glory days, Potosi had 32 churches, and the Casa de la Moneda was the site where coins were minted for use throughout the Spanish Empire. The building also served as a prison, a fortress, and the headquarters of the Bolivian army during the Chaco War.

Today, the Casa de la Moneda is a museum that offers guided tours in English and Spanish. The English-speaking tours depart at 9 am, 11 am, 2 pm, and 4 pm. The cost is $40 B's ($6 USD/£4.50 GBP) each, plus $20 B's ($3 USD/£2.25 GBP) for camera use or $40 B's to video. Note that you can only visit the museum as part of a guided tour.

Reviews of the Casa de la Moneda are mixed. Some visitors found the guided tour interesting and informative, while others felt it was boring and too long. It is worth noting that the tour is quite lengthy, lasting around 90 minutes to 2 hours. There is also some beautiful religious artwork on display, including La Virgen del Cerro, an anonymous work from the 18th century that depicts the Virgin Mary as a Pachamama-like figure within the earth, represented by the Cerro Rico.

Whether you are interested in history, architecture, or art, a visit to the Casa de la Moneda is definitely worth considering during your time in Potosi.

Explore the city's colonial buildings

The city of Potosí, Bolivia, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famed for its well-preserved colonial architecture. Founded in the 1500s as a Spanish mining town, it was once one of the richest cities in the world. The city's colonial buildings reflect its historical importance and former wealth.

Convento de San Francisco

The Convento de San Francisco is a beautiful colonial building with a rooftop that offers stunning views of the city and Cerro Rico. The red-tiled roof is a great spot to relax and take in the surrounding landscape. The convent has a museum that showcases religious art and catacombs filled with human bones. The guided tours are only available in Spanish, but the building's beauty and the viewpoint make it worth a visit.

Catedral de la Ciudad de Potosí

The Catedral de la Ciudad de Potosí, also known as the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, is an impressive colonial-era church located on 10 de Noviembre Square. The opulent stone facade is hard to miss. Tours are offered in Spanish and last between 30 to 45 minutes, showcasing the church's interesting features, including a huge organ brought over from Europe. Visitors can also climb up one of the bell towers for panoramic views of the city and Cerro Rico.

Torre de la Compañía de Jesús

The Torre de la Compañía de Jesús is what remains of a Jesuit church and is now home to Potosi's tourism office. Climbing the ornate bell tower offers unobstructed views of the city for just 10 bolivianos.

Iglesia La Merced

With impressive views of the city and Cerro Rico, Iglesia La Merced is another colonial church worth visiting. The entrance fee is 10 bolivianos, and there is a small cafe inside that serves great milkshakes.

San Lorenzo de Carangas

The San Lorenzo de Carangas church features a mixture of Aymará and Spanish Catholic architecture. The cost to enter is 10 bolivianos, and it offers yet another opportunity to climb a bell tower and enjoy panoramic views of the city.

Casa Nacional de Moneda

The Casa Nacional de Moneda, or Potosi Mint, is another must-see colonial building in Potosí. It was one of two mints in the city during the Spanish colonial era, and the first Spanish colonial coins were printed here. The building now houses a museum that showcases local history, early mining machinery, ethnography, and art. Tours are offered in English and Spanish, and photography is allowed with an additional fee.

Exploring the colonial buildings of Potosí offers a glimpse into the city's rich historical past and is a great way to immerse yourself in its unique charm and beauty.

Climb the towers of Iglesia de San Lorenzo de Carangas and Torre de la Compañía de Jesús

Climbing the towers of Iglesia de San Lorenzo de Carangas and Torre de la Compañía de Jesús offers a unique perspective of the city of Potosi and its rich history. Here is a detailed guide to help you make the most of your experience:

Iglesia de San Lorenzo de Carangas:

This church, located on Calle Héroes del Chaco, is a must-see for its artistic and cultural significance. The church was built between 1723 and 1744 and its construction involved a fascinating blend of cultures. The portal, a masterpiece of Métis Baroque sculpture, features an array of sculptures, including an archangel with a sword and shield, mermaids playing music, and Andean deities such as the Sun, the Moon, and Pachamama. The intricate carvings illustrate the fusion of Aymará and Spanish Catholic beliefs, with bas-reliefs depicting a guitar-playing indigenous mermaid and a sword-carrying Archangel San Miguel. The interior houses two Melchor Pérez de Holguín paintings and handcrafted silverwork on the altar. The church is usually open during mass times and entry is around 10 Bs.

Torre de la Compañía de Jesús:

The Torre de la Compañía de Jesús, or the bell tower of the former Jesuit church, stands as a reminder of the city's colonial past. Completed in 1707 after the collapse of the original church, the ornate bell tower is a testament to the wealth and power of the Jesuit order in Potosi. Climbing the tower for just $1.50 USD offers unobstructed views of the city, with the raw power of Cerro Rico looming in the background. The tower is open throughout the day, and your ticket allows you to come back as many times as you want.

Practical Information and Tips:

• The towers offer a great opportunity to capture stunning photographs of the city and its surroundings, so make sure your camera is ready!
• The climb to the top of the towers can be tiring, so take your time and watch your step.
• Both towers provide a unique perspective of the city and its history, so allocate enough time to fully appreciate the experience.
• The Iglesia de San Lorenzo de Carangas is usually open during mass times, so plan your visit accordingly.
• The Torre de la Compañía de Jesús is located in the city centre, making it easily accessible during your exploration of Potosi.

Try the local delicacy, Kalaphurka

When in Potosi, Bolivia, be sure to try the local delicacy, Kalaphurka. This corn-based soup is served with chunks of chicharron (pork), mote, and a variety of condiments. But the most notable feature of this dish is the extra-hot rock added to the soup just before serving to keep it warm. The soup continues to bubble and boil, creating a mini volcanic eruption on your plate. It is considered a morning dish, so be sure to get your fix before noon!

Kalaphurka can be challenging to find in restaurants, even though it is the city's most iconic dish. Your best bet is to head towards the cemetery, where you will find eateries serving this delicious treat. One such place is Doña Eugenia, filled with locals enjoying their morning Kalaphurka.

The name Kalaphurka comes from the Quechua words "kala," meaning rock, and "phurka," meaning cooking with rocks. This dish is a perfect example of the local culture and history, as it was traditionally eaten by miners working in the cold conditions of Potosi. The hot rock keeps the soup warm for longer, providing comfort and sustenance to those enduring the harsh conditions in the mines.

So, when in Potosi, don't miss out on trying this unique and flavourful dish. Head to the cemetery area in the morning, and you'll be sure to find yourself a hearty bowl of Kalaphurka to warm you up!

Frequently asked questions