Leslie Massey
Between 1740 and 1780, fashion in Austria was characterised by a variety of styles and trends. During this period, fashion designers became increasingly prominent, as both men and women sought to wear the latest trends and styles. Fashion magazines also emerged, capturing the attention of the masses with their colourful illustrations and up-to-date fashion news. This era saw the rise of formal and informal styles, with a distinction between full dress worn at court and for formal occasions, and undress or everyday, daytime clothes. Skirts were often worn over small, domed hoops called panniers, with larger hoops reserved for more formal occasions. Necklines were typically low and square-cut, and bodices were long and sharply pointed, with stays underneath to maintain a flat and smooth front.
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Robe à la française
The robe à la française, also known as the French gown, was a popular style of dress in 18th-century Europe. It was derived from the loose negligee sacque dress, which was pleated at the front and back from the shoulders. The robe à la française featured a tight-fitting bodice with a square neckline that exposed a woman's upper breasts. The front of the bodice was adorned with hidden ties, covered by a decorative stomacher (a V- or U-shaped garment) that was embellished with bows, ruffles, or other ornamentation. The sleeves were tight from the shoulder to the elbow, where they ended in flounces decorated with multiple layers of lace and ruffles, known as engageantes.
The back of the robe à la française was composed of floor-length box pleats, similar to the sack gown and the robe à l'anglaise. The outer skirt, often made of satin, matched the bodice and was left open at the front to reveal a decorated petticoat. The petticoat, like the stomacher, was embellished with ruffles, bows, flowers, lace, and other ornamental details. The wide skirts of the robe à la française were supported by panniers or hoops made of various materials such as cane, baleen, or metal, creating a funnel-shaped bust that transitioned into a wide, rectangular silhouette.
During the 1740s and 1750s, the robe à la française became increasingly popular among wealthy and aristocratic women across Europe, including Austria. It reflected the taste for opulent fabrics such as silk, brocade, and fine floral-patterned cloth. The gowns were often decorated with bows, lace, elaborate braidwork, and embroidery, showcasing the wearer's wealth and status.
The robe à la française was a versatile style, suitable for both formal and informal occasions. While the earliest version of the robe à la française, the robe battante, is believed to have been invented as maternity wear, the robe à la française evolved to become a symbol of luxury and fashion. By the 1770s, it had become one of the most formal styles of dress, second only to court dress.
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Skirts and hoops
During the period 1740-1780, the basic women's ensemble consisted of a "gown" or "robe", with the bodice and skirt coordinated. Bodices were like fitted jackets, and skirts were worn open or closed.
Hoops, also known as panniers, were worn under skirts to increase their volume. The size and scale of the hoops grew larger and more grandiose over time. In the 1740s, there were new hoop shapes, and hoops were worn under skirts of all types and sizes. The bum roll, a tubular pad worn at the back to enhance the hips, was popular in the 1740s and came back into fashion in the 1780s.
Skirts were often worn over enlarged hoops, with long, stiff, and pointed bodices. The "Dairy Maid" or "Polonnaise" style, which was popular in the 1770s, was achieved by pulling an overskirt through side slits where the petticoat was tied, or by using draw cords.
For grand occasions such as coronations, weddings, and investitures, the nobility wore magnificent velvet court robes encrusted with gold and silver embroidery.
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Male suits
During the period of 1740-1780, men's fashion in the Western world underwent several changes. While the coat, waistcoat, and breeches remained staple garments for men, the cuts and fabrics of these pieces evolved.
In the 1770s, coats displayed a tighter, narrower silhouette compared to previous years, and double-breasted styles also emerged. As this decade progressed, waistcoats gradually shortened, eventually reaching waist length, with straight-cut hemlines. Waistcoats could be crafted with or without sleeves, and they were commonly paired with breeches.
Towards the end of the 1780s, the skirts of coats began to be cutaway in a curved shape from the front waist. The fabrics used for these suits shifted from the heavily embroidered silks and velvets of the earlier part of the century to more understated, carefully tailored woollen garments suitable for a range of occasions, except the most formal events.
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Undress fashion
During the period 1740-1780 in Austria, undress or everyday fashion was distinct from the full dress worn at court and for formal occasions. Undress fashion was more relaxed and informal.
For women, an early form of the robe à la française was worn as a less formal style of undress. This gown was called a sacque and was unfitted at the front and back, typically made from heavier fabrics such as satin or velvet. The sacque had a tight bodice with a low-cut square neckline, a decorated stomacher, wide panniers, and was trimmed with lace, ribbons, and flowers. The back of the gown fell in loose box pleats, called "Watteau pleats". The robe à l'anglaise was another less formal style of gown, which could also be worn as a close-bodied nightgown.
Skirts were worn over small, domed hoops called panniers, with smaller hoops for everyday settings and larger hoops for formal occasions. The shift or smock had tight, elbow-length sleeves, and woollen waistcoats were worn over corsets for warmth. Free-hanging pockets were tied around the waist and accessed through pocket slits in the gown or petticoat.
For men, the suit, or habit à la française, consisted of three parts: the justaucorps, a jacket, and breeches. The waistcoat was the most decorative piece, often lavishly embroidered or made from patterned fabrics. Breeches typically stopped at the knee, with white stockings and heeled shoes with large square buckles worn underneath. Coats were worn closer to the body than in the Baroque era and were left open to display the waistcoat.
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Opulent court robes
During the period of 1740-1780, Austria was ruled by Maria Theresa, who oversaw a golden age in the country's history. It was during this time that the Hapsburg nobility wore opulent court robes, a style that was influenced by the Burgundian dukes of the fifteenth century.
These robes were typically made of velvet and adorned with shimmering gold and silver embroidery. They embodied ancient symbols of rank, family, and authority. The practice of wearing such opulent robes was a way for the nobility to display their wealth and status, and it was later codified by the Spaniards into formal court etiquette.
The Hapsburg nobility's opulent court robes were reserved for great imperial occasions, such as coronations, weddings, and investitures. The use of velvet, gold, and silver embroidery created a magnificent and luxurious appearance. While the servants' livery was never as extravagant, it was still colourful and well-made, reflecting the prestige of the household they represented.
The tradition of wearing these opulent court robes continued until World War I, when the courtly lifestyle came to an end. However, the romantic aura of this fashion era has endured, leaving a legacy of elegance and opulence associated with the Hapsburg nobility of Austria's past.
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Frequently asked questions
Women's fashion in the mid-18th century was characterised by skirts worn over small, domed hoops called panniers. The size of these hoops varied depending on the occasion, with larger hoops reserved for formal events. Gowns, known as the 'robe à la française' or 'sack-back gown', featured tight bodices with low-cut square necklines, decorated with stomachers, and were trimmed with lace, ribbon, and flowers. Sleeves were narrower and often featured elaborate lace engageantes.
Shoes were often covered in cloth to match the dress.
The male suit, or 'habit à la française', consisted of three parts: the justaucorps, a jacket, and breeches. The waistcoat was the most decorative piece, often featuring lavish embroidery or patterned fabrics. Breeches usually stopped at the knee, and were worn with white stockings and heeled shoes with large square buckles.
Yes, there were distinct differences in fashion based on social class. For example, a middle-class girl's dress would feature simpler fabrics and colours compared to the more luxurious and opulent styles of the nobility.
