Exploring Bolivia: Transport Options And Challenges

Bolivia's rugged topography and poor infrastructure make getting around the country a challenge. The majority of the country's road network is unpaved, and most main roads are in poor condition. However, travelling through Bolivia's stunning landscapes is one of the most enjoyable aspects of a visit to the country.

The most common way to travel in Bolivia is by bus. Buses are incredibly cheap and go pretty much everywhere. They are also a great way to experience Bolivia's unique landscapes. However, bus travel is not for the faint-hearted, particularly if you're travelling to or from La Paz, which sits at nearly 4000m above sea level. Expect vast changes in altitude, unexplained stops, and winding roads with no guardrails. Theft can also be an issue in terminals and on buses.

For those who want to avoid the bus, there are several other transport options in Bolivia. These include taxis, trains, planes, and even cable cars.

Bolivia's road network

The basic Road Network (RVF) is made up of five main corridors: East-West, North-South, West-North West-South, and Central-South. These corridors are designed to connect the national territory, integrate the Bolivian population, and promote economic, social, and productive development in all regions. The RVF falls under the responsibility of the Bolivian Road Administrator (ABC) and is part of the National Highway System.

Some of the main national roads include:

• RN1: Running from the border with Peru (Desaguadero) to the border with Argentina (Bermejo), connecting the capitals of Oruro, Potosí, and Tarija.
• RN2: Connecting the border with Peru (Kasani) to El Alto La Paz.
• RN3: Linking the capital of La Paz with Trinidad.
• RN4: Starting from the border with Chile (Tambo Quemado) and passing through La Paz, Cochabamba, and Santa Cruz, before reaching the border with Brazil (Arroyo Concepción).
• RN9: From the border with Argentina (Pocitos) to the border with Brazil (Guayaramerín).

Road transport is a common means of travel in Bolivia, with buses being the most economical and widely used option for travel between cities. However, bus travel can be dangerous due to frequent accidents, and safety largely depends on the driver's skills and sobriety.

Aviation

Airlines and Airports

Bolivia has 1,009 airports as of 2008, including 16 airports with paved runways and 993 airports with unpaved runways. The main hubs for air travel in Bolivia are Viru Viru International Airport in Santa Cruz and El Alto International Airport near La Paz. El Alto International Airport is located at a high altitude, and oxygen tanks are available in the arrivals area for passengers who experience altitude sickness.

Domestic Flights

Domestic flights in Bolivia are a convenient way to cover long distances in a short time, especially when travelling to rural or tropical areas that are difficult to access by road. Boliviana de Aviación (BoA), the country's flag carrier and government-owned airline, offers a wide network of flights to various domestic destinations. Internal flight prices range from Bs 350 ($50 USD) to Bs 700 ($100 USD) for a one-way ticket, and baggage allowance is typically 15 kg per passenger. Amazonas, a competitor to BoA, serves flights to La Paz, Cochabamba, and Santa Cruz. Transporte Aéreo Militar (TAM), the military airline, offers flights to remote locations not serviced by commercial airlines and is usually cheaper.

International Flights

Internationally, Bolivia is connected to neighbouring countries and other South American capitals. Lloyd Aéreo Boliviano (LAB) is a historical airline founded in 1925, playing a crucial role in connecting Bolivia's plains and eastern border regions. LAB offers international flights to South American capitals and cities such as São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Manaus in Brazil, Panama City in Panama, and Miami in the United States. AeroSur is another airline providing air passenger services to most Bolivian cities and some international destinations like Buenos Aires.

Challenges and Considerations

Air travel in Bolivia comes with certain challenges. Schedules can change with little notice, and flight delays or cancellations are common. It is recommended to book flights a few days in advance and reconfirm before departure. Additionally, the unpredictable rainy season can impact flight operations, particularly in the eastern plains of Bolivia where roads may be affected.

Rail transport

Bolivia's rail network has had a unique development throughout its history. The country's first railways were built in the 1870s, driven by the need to transport saltpetre to the coast. However, it was silver mining that drove the construction of a railway from the Pacific coast to the high plateau during the nineteenth century. Tin mining in the early twentieth century further expanded the rail network, forming what is now known as the Andean or Western network.

The history of railways in Bolivia can be divided into five phases:

First Phase (1870-1900)

During this period, silver mining companies constructed their own railways for ore transport. The Anglo-Chilean Company of Salitres and Ferrocarril de Antofagasta built the first railroad lines in 1873 from the Salar del Carmen to Antofagasta. The need to transport mining outputs was the primary driving force behind the development of railways in Bolivia.

Second Phase (1900-1929)

The greatest expansion of the rail network occurred during this period, financed largely by foreign investment. Connections were made with Peru, Argentina, and Bolivia's major cities, forming the Western network. The increase in railway construction was also driven by political necessity and the desire for modernisation and development.

Third Phase (1930-1964)

This period saw the operations of foreign railway companies, mining companies, and state railways become increasingly independent. However, government policy began to prioritise roads over railways. Despite this, railways were still constructed to Argentina and Brazil, creating the Eastern network.

Fourth Phase (1964-1996)

The fourth phase involved the nationalisation of railways and the creation of the National State Railways Company (ENFE) in 1964 to manage the rail networks. During this time, the eastern network was developed to link the Santa Cruz region with the Atlantic via the Santa Cruz-Yacuiba and Santa Cruz-Corumbá railways.

Fifth Phase (1997-2013)

The fifth phase was marked by the privatisation of the railways through the capitalization process. The rail system was divided into two companies: Empresa Ferroviaria Andina S.A., managing the Andean Network, and Empresa Ferroviaria Oriental S.A., overseeing the Eastern Network.

Today, Bolivia has two railway systems with approximately 3,504 kilometres of track used for both freight and passenger transport. The main rail system is in the west, connecting major Andean cities and mines with Pacific ports in Chile and Peru. The eastern railroad system is isolated from the western network and is centred around the city of Santa Cruz, with connections to Brazil and Argentina.

While rail transport in Bolivia has historically been important, it now plays a smaller role in the country's transport system, with road and air transport being more prominent.

Taxis and ride-sharing

Taxis are available in most larger Bolivian cities and are relatively inexpensive. They are one of the easiest and safest ways for tourists to get around. In major cities such as La Paz and Santa Cruz, you can use taxi apps like Uber to get around. However, it is worth noting that many taxis are actually trufis (collective taxis) that run on fixed routes and pick up other passengers along the way.

There are two types of taxis in Bolivia: radiotaxis and regular taxis. Radiotaxis are dispatched based on calls they receive from private clients, usually hotels or restaurants. They will pick you up at your location and take you directly to your destination. This is the safer option, but it is also the more expensive one, costing around 1 to 10 USD, depending on the distance. Radiotaxis can be identified by their roof bubbles, which display their logo, telephone number, and company name. Regular taxis, on the other hand, drive around the city picking up passengers on the street and typically cost around 0.60 USD per person for a one-way trip.

When taking a taxi in Bolivia, it is important to be cautious, especially at night. Some criminals pose as taxi drivers and target drunk or lost tourists. It is recommended to call a taxi instead of hailing one on the street, especially when travelling alone at night. Asking your hotel, bar, or restaurant to call one for you can be a safer option.

Bolivia also has a unique type of ride-sharing called trufis (taxi ruta fija or fixed-route taxis). They are similar to minibuses and follow a predetermined route, only departing when full. They are cheaper than regular taxis, with a one-way trip costing approximately 0.40 USD. The destination is usually indicated by a card hanging on the windshield and the colour of small flags hanging from the hood.

When taking a taxi or trufi in Bolivia, it is important to know your destination beforehand as many drivers may not know the location of certain hostels or restaurants. It is also common for drivers not to have change for large notes, so it is advisable to carry smaller denominations. While tipping is not required, it is appreciated and can be in the form of rounding up the fare or giving a small percentage for excellent service or assistance with luggage.

Cable cars

Bolivia is home to the world's first urban transit network to use cable cars as the primary mode of transportation. The system, called Mi Teleférico, serves the twin cities of El Alto and La Paz, which together form the world's highest metropolitan area at more than 3,650 metres above sea level.

Mi Teleférico is accessible to all and offers support and preferential treatment to people with disabilities or mobility challenges, as well as other groups in need. Specific programs for women and young people have also been developed to promote social inclusion. The cable car system is also one of the few mass transport systems in Latin America to achieve financial sustainability, reporting an accumulated surplus of USD 5.8 million.

The cable car network in La Paz consists of 23 kilometres of lines and has 20 stations along six routes. It is planned to be expanded to at least 34 kilometres with five additional lines and a total of 30 stations. Each line has a maximum capacity of 6,000 passengers per hour, with cars seating 10 passengers each and departing every 12 seconds. The network is open 17 hours a day and, in 2017, it served an average of 243,000 passengers per day.

The cable car system provides a safe, reliable, affordable, and efficient way of travelling between El Alto and La Paz. The two cities are separated by distance and altitude, and commuting between them by road can take an hour or more due to the winding routes and traffic congestion. Mi Teleférico offers a faster and more comfortable alternative to the cramped minivans, buses, and taxi cabs that previously dominated the commute between the two cities.

Riding Mi Teleférico can be a unique and enjoyable experience. Tourists can take in amazing views of the cities and get a feel for the whole area in just a few hours. The cable cars sway gently in the wind as commuters travel between El Alto and La Paz, offering a peaceful respite from the busy streets below.

Frequently asked questions