Bavaria's Traditional Dress: A Cultural Icon Unveiled

The traditional dress of Bavaria is called a 'dirndl'. It is a feminine garment with roots in the German-speaking Alpine regions. It is composed of an apron, a broad, high-waisted skirt, a tight-fitting bodice with a low neckline, and a shirt worn underneath the bodice. The male equivalent is 'lederhosen', which are knee-length leather shorts worn with suspenders, a checked shirt, and a hat.

Lederhosen: the traditional Bavarian trousers for men

Lederhosen are the traditional Bavarian trousers for men and the usual masculine counterpart to the Dirndl, the traditional feminine dress. Lederhosen are generally made from goat or buckskin and feature patterning. They are worn with over-shoulder braces, which are characteristically joined across the chest by a decorative panel.

Lederhosen were originally work trousers for farmers, known for their robustness and durability. They were already in fashion just before 1800 but disappeared from popularity shortly after. They re-emerged in 1883 when a teacher named Joseph Vogl founded the first Bavarian traditional dress association. The trend was endorsed by King Ludwig II, who ensured the nobility wore lederhosen on hunts, and so the trousers came back into fashion.

Today, the biggest difference between the various models is in the length: knee breeches, short Plattler, Bermudas, or long boot lederhosen are all possibilities. When it comes to purchasing lederhosen, quality is key. It is recommended to avoid cheap pairs made from inferior leather and instead opt for trousers made from deer or chamois leather, which will last much longer.

Lederhosen are traditionally worn with a white, loose-cut shirt made of linen. This can easily be replaced by a subtly checkered, more colourful, fitted model today. Men can also choose to wear a traditional waistcoat, finished with elegant materials such as velvet, brocade, or taffeta. If the traditional waistcoat seems too formal, it can be replaced with a trendy knitted waistcoat made from wool knits, pure wool, cotton, or wool-blended fabrics.

Dirndl: the traditional dress for women

The dirndl is a traditional dress for women and girls in some Alpine regions of Austria, Germany, Italy, Liechtenstein and Switzerland. It is also the traditional dress for women in Bavaria, in the south of Germany.

The dirndl is made up of at least two pieces: the dress and an apron. It is usually accompanied by a cropped dirndl blouse, which is worn under the bodice and covers the shoulders and upper arms. The bodice is tight-fitting with a low neckline, and the skirt is wide and high-waisted, falling in pleats.

The history of the dirndl dates back to the 16th to 18th centuries, when it was the attire of Alpine peasants. In the late 19th century, the dirndl was adopted by the upper and middle classes as a fashion trend and spread beyond its area of origin. Today, it is a popular choice for Oktoberfest and other traditional German celebrations.

How to wear a dirndl

When wearing a dirndl, it is customary to start with a blouse made of white cotton or lace, with short or elbow-length sleeves. The bodice of the dress should fit snugly, and the skirt should fall just below the knee. The apron is tied around the waist, with different ways of tying the knot indicating a woman's relationship status. For example, a knot on the left means the wearer is single, while a knot on the right means she is married or in a relationship.

Accessories

There are several accessories that can be paired with a dirndl to complete the look. Traditional Bavarian footwear, usually featuring intricate embroidery, is essential. Other accessories include jewellery such as necklaces, earrings and brooches, as well as hair ornaments like wreaths or small crowns.

Modern variations

While the traditional dirndl was quite long, with skirts measuring at least 70 cm, modern variations include mini and midi skirt lengths. There is also more freedom in terms of colours and materials, with a wide range of patterns and quality levels to choose from.

Caring for your dirndl

Most dirndls can be washed in a household washing machine, but it is important to wash the apron separately to avoid colour bleeding. It is recommended to wash at 30 degrees Celsius with a delicate detergent and to avoid using bleach. Do not put your dirndl in the dryer; instead, hang it on a hanger and let it air dry.

How to wear a Dirndl

The dirndl is a traditional dress from the German-speaking Alpine regions of Europe. It is a feminine garment with a structured bodice, tightly tied and decoratively embroidered, a full skirt, and an apron. It is typically made from cotton, linen, velvet, silk, or leather.

• The Blouse: Start with a blouse, typically made of white cotton or lace. It can have short or elbow-length sleeves.
• The Dress: Put on the dirndl dress, ensuring that the bodice fits snugly and that the skirt falls just below the knee.
• The Apron: Tie the apron around your waist. The position of the bow on the apron indicates your relationship status. Left means single, right means taken, centre means virgin/undecided, and back means waitress/widowed.
• Accessories: Accessorise with traditional German jewellery such as edelweiss necklaces or brooches. You can also add a hat or floral wreath to your hair.
• Footwear: Pair your dirndl with appropriate shoes, such as low-heeled pumps, flats, or lace-up ankle boots.

There is no strict rule for wearing dirndls anymore. You can mix and match various skirt lengths and accessories to create a unique and modern look while still paying homage to this traditional garment.

The history of the Dirndl

The dirndl is a traditional dress with roots in the German-speaking Alpine regions of Europe. It is composed of a close-fitting bodice with a low neckline, a blouse worn underneath, a wide high-waisted skirt, and an apron. The name "dirndl" is a diminutive of the German word "dirn(e)", which means "young woman".

Origins as Rural Clothing

Rural costumes like the dirndl originated in the countryside and were worn by specific social classes, occupations, religious groups, or ethnic groups. The dirndl specifically developed as the clothing of Alpine peasants between the 16th and 18th centuries and was influenced by urban fashions, neighbouring regional costumes, available materials, and royal court fashions.

Development as a Recognised Folk Costume

As a reaction to the dominance of French fashion in the early 19th century, a movement to study and preserve traditional costumes of rural populations emerged in several European countries, including the German-speaking world. This movement, known as the "Trachtenbewegung" (Tracht movement), resulted in initiatives to study and promote folk costumes like the dirndl.

Evolution as a Fashion Style

From the 1870s onwards, the dirndl evolved into a typical "country" dress among wealthy patrons of summer resorts in Austria and Bavaria. The adoption of the dirndl by the upper and middle classes raised the status of the traditional clothing and encouraged country people to continue wearing it. The garment was made more closely fitted to emphasise the female body shape and used more fashionable materials such as silk, lace, and expensive thread.

Appropriation by the Nazis

During the Nazi regime in the 1930s and 1940s, traditional German costumes, including the dirndl, were instrumentalised as symbols of pan-German identity. The dirndl was used to promote the Nazi ideal of the German woman as hardworking and fertile. However, Jews were forbidden from using "folk culture", despite their prominent role in documenting and promoting it.

Decline and Resurgence

After World War II, the dirndl's popularity declined, especially in cities, due to its association with the Nazis. However, it continued to be worn as a festive dress in rural Bavaria and at events like Oktoberfest.

In recent decades, there has been a revival of interest in the dirndl, with a "dirndl Renaissance" in Austria and Bavaria. It has become standard for young Bavarians to have traditional clothing in their wardrobe, and fashion houses have started designing and selling high-end dirndls. Today, the dirndl is considered a symbol of Bavarian culture and is often worn by women working in tourism and traditional culture industries.

The Dirndl bow: what does its position mean?

The Dirndl is a traditional dress with roots in the German-speaking Alpine regions of Bavaria, Austria, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, and Italy. It is composed of a bodice, skirt, blouse, and apron. While the specific design and style of the Dirndl can vary by region, one consistent element is the apron, and more specifically, the position of the bow tied on the apron. The position of the bow has a secret language that communicates the relationship status of the wearer.

Left: Single

If you see someone wearing a Dirndl with the bow on the left, it means they are single and may be open to meeting someone special.

Right: Taken

If the bow is on the right, it indicates that the wearer is in a relationship or married and is not interested in romantic advances.

Centre Front: Virgin/Undecided

In the past, a bow tied in the centre front was reserved for virgins. Nowadays, this rule is not always followed strictly. Some women who are undecided about their relationship status or prefer not to disclose it may also wear the bow in this position.

Centre Back: Waitress/Widowed

A bow tied at the centre back typically indicates that the wearer is a waitress. However, it can also signify that the woman is widowed.

Styling Tips

Regardless of the position you choose, it is essential to tie the bow neatly and tightly to create a decorative and sturdy accessory that enhances the overall Dirndl ensemble.

Frequently asked questions