Ruqayyah Snyder
Roses are hardy plants that grow well in Australia, but they are susceptible to pests and diseases. Common issues include budworms, aphids, black spot, mildew, caterpillars, beetles, and various viruses and fungi. These pests can cause significant damage to rose bushes, flowers, and buds, and may require various control methods, including manual removal, insecticides, fungicides, and improved gardening practices.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Common Pests | Aphids, Caterpillars, Budworms, Japanese Beetles, Rose Curculios, Thrips, Mites, Sawflies |
| Aphid Characteristics | Clusters of tiny, pear-shaped insects on buds and leaves; black sooty mould; secretion of sticky honeydew substance |
| Budworm Characteristics | Small size (up to 2 inches); black sticky goo; round to oblong holes in petals |
| Japanese Beetle Characteristics | Bronze and green metallic beetles; congregate in large numbers |
| Rose Curculio Characteristics | Long snouts; preference for yellow or white roses |
| Thrip Characteristics | Brown with yellow wings (flower thrips); pale with dark wings (chilli thrips) |
| Sawfly Larva Characteristics | Resemble slugs; secrete slimy substance |
| Preventative Measures | Pruning, adequate sunlight, fertilisation, proper watering techniques, insecticidal soap, natural predators |
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What You'll Learn
Caterpillars and moths
Caterpillars are the larval/grub stage of moths and butterflies, and there are over 20,000 species in Australia, with only half scientifically named. They are chewing garden pests and can inflict considerable damage on plants. They may feed openly during the day, at night, or out of sight by tunnelling into plant parts. Budworms (aka tobacco budworms) are a type of caterpillar that attacks rose blooms, as well as the leaves and foliage. They leave round to oblong holes in petals and black sticky goo on the plant. Female moths lay their eggs on or into plant tissue, and these hatch into larvae that feed on plant parts.
The larvae of pest species can be considered the most destructive, with only about 50 caterpillar species out of thousands considered pests. The Gum-leaf Skeletoniser caterpillar, for example, is hairy and can irritate the skin. Mature Grapevine Moth larvae are black-and-white patterned caterpillars with a pink hump and small pink markings on the sides.
To control caterpillars, it is best to act early when they are small. Insecticides such as Sevin or BioNeem are effective, but it is important to also use a miticide as these products can kill the natural predators of other pests. Neem oil and insecticidal soap are also recommended for controlling caterpillars and other pests like sawfly slugs and thrips.
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Budworms
Visual signs of budworm infestations include holes in rose buds and tiny black seed-like droppings. Budworms chew through the buds and eat the developing rose petals, leaving behind black globs and causing significant damage that may prevent the rose from blooming. Flower petals that do survive and bloom may appear ragged or have multiple holes chewed through them.
To control budworm infestations, it is recommended to remove all buds, terminal growth, and blind shoots from the rose plant. Pruning is one of the most effective methods of controlling these pests. It is also important to monitor plants closely, especially at dusk when larvae are most active, and handpick and destroy any larvae and infested buds. Managing weeds in and around gardens can help remove the habitat and alternate food sources for budworms.
When using insecticides, avoid broad-spectrum options as they can kill beneficial insects such as spiders that prey on budworms. Organic, non-toxic pesticides like Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt, are recommended. Bt is a beneficial bacteria found naturally in the soil that specifically targets pest insects. However, it is important to note that Bt is not effective against larvae feeding within buds and may not control mature larvae.
Additionally, products like BioNeem by Safer or Safer BT Caterpillar Control can be effective against budworms. Neem oil or other Bt products will also work for budworm control. When using insecticides, it is crucial to time the applications properly to avoid harming pollinating bees.
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Aphids
To prevent and control aphid infestations, it is important to take proactive measures. Firstly, when buying new rose plants, ask for cultivars that are more resistant to aphids and other diseases. Ensure your roses are planted in well-drained soil with plenty of compost or soil improver, and provide them with at least six hours of sunshine each day. Regularly feed your roses with a complete fertiliser once they are established.
If you notice signs of aphids, such as clusters of tiny insects on your flower buds or distorted leaves, there are several methods you can use to get rid of them. For light infestations, simply pick off the aphids and discard them, or tap the rose stem and leaves to make the pests fall into a bucket. You can also try spraying your roses with water to knock the aphids off. Just be careful not to damage the rose bush with too much water pressure.
For more severe infestations, you may need to use insecticides. However, be mindful that insecticides can also kill beneficial insects in your garden. Natural alternatives, such as garlic or chilli sprays, can be effective. You can also try planting garlic, chives, mint, and lavender near your roses as aphids dislike these plants.
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Beetles
Japanese beetles are one of the most problematic rose feeders because they spread fast. They are easily identified by their metallic green bodies, coppery-bronze wings, and small white dots ringing the outer abdomen. They are about 7/16 inch long and have chewing mouthparts. They feed on flowers, buds, and leaves, leaving ragged edges and holes in the petals. The affected buds may fail to open. To control Japanese beetles, you can handpick them and destroy them by dropping them into soapy water. You can also use fine netting, such as tulle fabric, or spunbound polyester fabric, such as Reemay, to place over the bush or individual blossoms to exclude the beetles.
Rose chafers are small, slender beetles with greenish-tan bodies and spiky, red-orange legs. They are about 1/2 inch long and mainly feed at night. They skeletonize rose leaves, leaving the veins intact, and devour the tissue in between. They are especially attracted to areas with sandy soil. To control rose chafers, you can let beneficial insects feed on them, such as ladybird beetles (ladybugs) and their larvae.
Hoplia beetles are small, oval-shaped pests about 1/4 inch long. They have dark reddish-brown bodies with light brown wings. They are often mistaken for Japanese beetles but can be distinguished by the absence of green accents. Hoplia beetles are only a problem in the spring, from late March to May. They feed on light-colored blossoms and roses, chewing small holes through the flower petals. To control hoplia beetles, you can handpick them off your rose petals and discard them in a bucket of soapy water.
To prevent beetle infestations, it is recommended to plant darker-colored roses, as beetles are attracted to light-colored, vibrant flowers. You can also try planting companion plants, such as lavender, chives, marigolds, mint, or garlic, which can add to the health of your rose bushes and slightly change their taste, making them less appealing to beetles.
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Mildew
There are two types of mildew: downy and powdery. Powdery mildew is the more common form, which appears as a white, red, or pale grey powder on the leaves, stems, flower buds, and stalks of the plant. It can cause the leaf edges to scorch and curl inwards, and the buds to become deformed. The fungus can overwinter in infected buds and spread through wind-borne spores.
To prevent and control mildew, it is important to maintain good airflow and circulation around the plant. Pruning and removing any infected leaves, stems, or buds is crucial to reducing the spread of the disease. It is recommended to spray the plant with water on a warm, dry day to wash off the spores. Additionally, organic sprays containing milk diluted in water or potassium bicarbonate can be effective in treating and preventing mildew.
When choosing rose varieties, opt for strong growers or those recommended for your geographical area. Some cultivars, such as 'Altissimo', 'Carefree Spring', 'Jeanne Lajoie', and 'Sally Holmes', are known to be resistant to powdery mildew. However, even resistant varieties may still be susceptible to infection under favourable conditions. Maintaining the overall health of your roses through proper planting, feeding, and care will also make them less vulnerable to mildew and other diseases.
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Frequently asked questions
Rose buds are the flower buds of rose bushes, which are susceptible to a number of pests and diseases.
Some common pests that eat rose buds in Australia include:
- Aphids
- Budworms
- Caterpillars
- Japanese beetles
- Rose curculios
- Thrips
Signs that your rose buds are being eaten include:
- Distorted flower buds and leaves
- Sticky honeydew substance on the leaves
- Black sooty mould on the leaves
- Holes in the petals of blooms
- Black sticky goo on the plant
- Ragged holes in the flowers
- Brown streaks on the petals
- Dried-out and brittle buds
To prevent your rose buds from being eaten, you can try the following:
- Prune and dispose of infected leaves and buds
- Improve air circulation by pruning roses
- Apply a winter spray of lime sulphur to prevent fungal infection
- Use insecticidal soap or sprays
- Hand-pick pests like Japanese beetles and rose curculios
- Avoid planting yellow or white roses, which are preferred by rose curculios
