The Chollita: Bolivia's Cultural Icon And Tradition

Chollitas, or Cholas, are indigenous Aymara and Quechua women from Bolivia. They are known for their distinctive, elegant outfits, including bowler hats, puffed skirts, long braids, lacy blouses, and shawls. While the term chola was once used as a derogatory term for someone of mixed race, the Chollitas have reclaimed the term, and it is now used affectionately. Despite facing heavy discrimination and marginalization in the past, Chollitas are now a driving force in modern Bolivia, gaining a new place in society as entrepreneurs and leaders.

Chollitas' history and the evolution of their societal status

Chollitas, or "cholitas", are indigenous Aymara and Quechua women in Bolivia who proudly embrace their cultural heritage. The term "chollita" originated as a derogatory word for someone of mixed indigenous and Spanish heritage, but it has since been reclaimed by indigenous women as a symbol of their identity and defiance against societal stereotypes.

Historically, chollitas faced heavy discrimination and marginalisation in Bolivian society. They were banned from certain public spaces, denied access to services, and frequently harassed. They were seen as belonging to a lower social class and were often restricted to domestic work or servant roles. However, in recent years, chollitas have experienced a resurgence, gaining newfound respect and becoming symbols of national pride in Bolivia. This change has been driven by several factors, including the election of Bolivia's first indigenous president, Evo Morales, in 2005 or 2012, who implemented policies recognising the rights of indigenous people, as well as the rise of feminism and changing societal attitudes about the role of women.

Chollitas today play diverse roles in Bolivian society, including mothers, entrepreneurs, artists, and community leaders. They actively participate in various industries, such as street vending and tourism, and have broken into traditionally male-dominated fields. They are known for their strong community bonds and advocacy for social change. Additionally, chollitas are recognised for their distinctive clothing, including colourful dresses, shawls, and their iconic bowler hats, which have become a symbol of fashion and cultural identity.

The rise of chollitas in Bolivia represents a significant shift in the societal status of indigenous women. While they continue to face some discrimination, chollitas have increasingly gained social acceptance and empowerment, breaking free from societal restrictions and stereotypes to pursue new career paths and ventures. They have become ambassadors of Bolivian culture, inspiring pride and admiration within their communities and beyond.

The typical Chollita outfit

The most iconic element of the Chollita outfit is arguably the bowler hat, also known as "El Sombrero" or "Borsalino". These hats were originally introduced to Bolivia by British or English railway workers in the 1920s but were quickly adopted by Chollitas as a fashionable accessory. The way the hat is worn on the head indicates the marital status of the woman: straight on if married, tilted to the side if single or widowed, and—as a joke—over the back of the head if the relationship is "complicated". The hats are often wrapped in plastic bags for protection on rainy days.

The skirt, or "La Pollera", is another key component of the Chollita outfit. These skirts are colourful, pleated, and puffed, using up to 8 meters of cloth to achieve a voluminous look. The skirt reaches down to the ankles, considered the most attractive part of a woman's body in Bolivian culture. The skirt is also worn high to emphasise the roundness of the backside, which is another desirable trait. Underneath the skirt, colourful, multi-layered petticoats or "Las Enaguas" are worn to add to the "puff" effect.

The blouse, or "La Blusa", is typically lacy and can be worn with either short or long sleeves depending on the climate. Around the shoulders, Chollitas wear a thick shawl or "La Manta", usually made from llama or alpaca wool and held together with a long stickpin or safety pin. In terms of footwear, "Los Calzados" have evolved from European ankle boots to flat, rounded-toe shoes similar to ballet flats.

Chollitas also love to accessorise with jewellery or "Joyas". During competitions, parades, or special occasions, the wealthiest Chollitas may hire security guards to protect their expensive earrings, brooches, and other jewels.

Chollitas' presence in the media

Chollitas, or Cholitas, are indigenous Aymara and Quechua women in Bolivia, recognisable by their distinctive, elegant outfits: high bowler hats, puffed skirts, long shawls, and braided hair. In the past, they were discriminated against and ostracised, banned from public transport and certain public spaces. However, in recent years, they have risen to prominence in the media, politics, and fashion.

Cholitas have made significant strides in the media, with several notable examples of their presence and impact in this sector. Bertha Acarapi, for instance, became the second cholita to work in television in Bolivia as a news anchor. Additionally, Remedios Loza broke barriers as the first cholita to host a radio programme, "Sabor a Tierra", in 1962, using her platform to give voice to indigenous people.

In the realm of print media, Maria Isabel Cordova founded "Ayni Sociales", a society magazine catering to La Paz's Aymara community. This publication showcases the glamour and emerging economic power of the Aymara community, marking a significant shift from the past when such a magazine would have been unthinkable.

Furthermore, cholitas have also made inroads into the fashion industry, with Rosario Aguilar, a former city politician, establishing the first specialist cholita modelling agency in La Paz. Aguilar is also a passionate promoter of cholita fashion and culture, curating fashion shows that celebrate cholita style and elegance.

The increased representation of cholitas in the media is a testament to their empowerment and the ongoing social change in Bolivia. It reflects their growing presence and influence in various sectors, challenging stereotypes and reshaping societal perceptions.

Chollitas' role in politics

Chollitas, or Cholitas, are Bolivia's indigenous Aymara and Quechua women, recognisable by their wide skirts, braided hair, and bowler hats. As recently as a decade ago, Chollitas were socially ostracised and systematically marginalised. They were banned from using public transport and entering certain public spaces, and their career opportunities were severely limited.

However, Chollitas have been organising and advocating for their civil rights since at least the 1960s, and their movement was invigorated by Evo Morales' election as Bolivia's first indigenous president in 2006. This led to a gradual rise of grassroots movements in Bolivia, mostly led by rural peasant groups, which culminated in the 2005 election of Morales. This brought about significant social change, with women and indigenous people becoming a particular focus of new policies and laws designed to end the elitism of the past.

Chollitas now occupy various political roles in Bolivia, including congresswomen, alderwoman, and members of the national parliament. They are also involved in local politics, with some working as alderwomen and infrastructure commission presidents. Additionally, Chollitas have made inroads into the media, with some working as news anchors, journalists, and radio hosts.

Despite these advancements, Chollitas still face discrimination and are not yet equal to their male counterparts. Issues such as domestic violence and lack of access to education remain prevalent and need to be addressed by the government and society.

Chollitas' influence on fashion

Chollitas, or "cholitas", are Bolivian women of the indigenous Aymara and Quechua cultures. They are known for their distinctive, elegant outfits, including high bowler hats, puffed skirts, long shawls, jewellery, and flat shoes. While the chola style has become a source of pride and empowerment for these women, it was originally imposed on them by Spanish colonial forces, who sought to suppress their indigenous culture.

The chola style has a rich history, dating back to the Spanish Inquisition, when the Spanish forced indigenous people to adopt European dress. The bowler hat, for example, was originally intended for male railway workers but was given to indigenous women when the hats arrived in the wrong size. Despite its colonial origins, the chola style has been reclaimed by indigenous women, who have moulded it to their liking and made it their own.

Today, the chola style is a powerful symbol of cultural pride and artistic expression for Bolivian women. It has become a central part of the country's cultural heritage, recognised officially by the council in La Paz. The style is also big business, with specialist cholita modelling agencies and fashion designers catering to the growing demand for traditional clothing.

The chola style is characterised by several key elements. The bowler hat, for instance, is worn to signify a woman's marital status. If the hat is in the middle, the woman is married; to the side means she is single or widowed, and towards the back indicates a "complicated" relationship. The skirt is another important component, with wider skirts considered more beautiful and desirable. The blouse is typically lacy and can be worn with either short or long sleeves depending on the climate. The shawl, or "manta", is usually made from llama or alpaca wool and is pinned together at the front with a long stickpin or safety pin.

Cholita fashion is not just about clothing; it's also about accessories and jewellery. Earrings and brooches are commonly worn, with some wealthy cholitas hiring security guards to protect their expensive jewels during parades or fiestas. The jewellery can be very costly, with some women spending up to $18,000 on a set of gold jewellery for a single event.

In conclusion, the chola style has had a significant influence on fashion in Bolivia and beyond. It has empowered indigenous women, challenged societal norms, and become a symbol of cultural pride and identity. The style continues to evolve, with new trends and designers keeping the tradition alive and ensuring its place in the modern world.

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