Lexi Webster
The clothing of Andean people of indigenous descent in Bolivia includes the pollera (a pleated or multi-layered skirt), the 19th-century European bowler hat, and a silky shawl known as a manta. The pollera was originally a simple Spanish dress that colonial authorities forced the indigenous populations to wear. Today, the pollera is a symbol of pride for the indigenous people who live in La Paz and for people in rural areas. The traditional outfit is reserved for special occasions, celebrations, festivals, and parties among younger women, who usually wear Western-style clothing like jeans and t-shirts.
What You'll Learn
The pollera: a multi-layered, colourful, pleated skirt
The pollera is a multi-layered, colourful, pleated skirt, which is very much associated with the urban mestizo and the rural indigenous classes in Bolivia. The pollera is a type of Spanish colonial dress enforced on indigenous populations in the Andes by hacienda owners or hacendados sometime between the 16th and 17th centuries. The skirt was originally used to easily identify and set apart the native community, who were often looked down upon.
The pollera is a symbol of pride for indigenous people, who live in La Paz, and for people in rural areas. The urban pollera typical of the Bolivian altiplano should be made of 8 metres of cloth and is worn with 4–5 embroidered underskirts. The skirt worn under the top pollera is called the fuste, and the one worn under the fuste is typically made from wool. The pollera is often accompanied by a manta, a type of brightly coloured silky shawl, a frilly blouse, and a practical apron.
The pollera is a wide skirt made of wool bayeta cloth. Women usually wear several of these on top of one another, and on special occasions, they may wear up to 10 or more. The polleras are made of different materials, such as cotton or wool and linen, and always have colourful decorative elements. Most of the decorations are embroidered. Flowers and regional animals are among the most common designs.
The pollera is a form of Spanish peasant dress from southern Spanish regions like Andalusia. Today, polleras are associated with indigenous and folkloric forms of dress. In Bolivia, the pollera is a symbol of female attractiveness, contrasting with the Western ideal of the tall, thin, curvy woman. Women wear polleras as an expression of their creative skills and to be appreciated for their beauty, fashion, and originality.
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The manta: a silky, brightly coloured shawl
The manta is a brightly coloured, silky shawl worn by the women of Bolivia. It is part of the country's traditional dress, which varies across different regions. In the departments of La Paz, Oruro and Potosí, the mantilla (shawl) is thick and usually one colour, pinned together at the front with a long stick pin or large safety pin. In Cochabamba and Tarija, women wear smaller shawls that are not as heavy, often embroidered with flowers or other designs, and hemmed with fringe.
The manta is worn with a pollera, a colourful, layered, pleated skirt in the style of a Spanish peasant. The pollera was originally a simple Spanish dress that colonial authorities forced the indigenous populations to wear. Today, it is a symbol of pride for the indigenous people who live in La Paz and for people in rural areas. The women of Bolivia continued to wear this style of dress, adapting it to their own culture and seeing it as a part of their cultural identity. The pollera is often covered in sequins with decorative seams, and can be worn with up to 20 underskirts called centros. The outfit is finished with a 19th-century European bowler hat, known as a bombin, and a frilly blouse.
The traditional dress is still worn by many older women in their everyday lives, especially in rural areas. However, younger women are increasingly adopting Western-style clothing, with jeans and t-shirts being the most common. The traditional outfit is now often reserved for special occasions, celebrations, festivals and parties.
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Bowler hats: 19th-century European hats, often perched on top of the head
The bowler hat, also known as a "bombín" in Spanish, is a 19th-century European hat that has become an integral part of traditional women's dress in Bolivia, particularly among the Aymara and Quechua people. While the exact reasons for its adoption are unclear, it is believed that British railway workers introduced the hat to Bolivia in the 1920s. The bowler hat is characterised by its rounded crown and is typically made of stiff felt material, offering protection and durability.
In Bolivia, the bowler hat is worn as part of the traditional outfit of highland Indian women of indigenous descent, along with a colourful, layered, pleated skirt called a "pollera", a silky shawl called a "manta", a frilly blouse, and an apron. This combination creates a vivid and striking effect, with the bowler hat perched atop the head, adding a unique touch to the ensemble.
The bowler hat's journey to Bolivia is steeped in intriguing narratives. One popular story suggests that a shipment of hats intended for men was too small, so women adopted them instead. Another tale claims that British railway workers, who favoured the hat for its practicality, influenced Bolivian women to embrace the bowler as a symbol of fertility. These stories highlight the hat's cultural fluidity and its ability to transcend gender norms.
The bowler hat holds symbolic value for Bolivian women, especially those proud of their indigenous heritage. While younger women in urban areas are gravitating towards Western-style clothing, the bowler hat remains a powerful statement of cultural identity and empowerment for those who choose to don it. The hat's association with indigenous communities and their resilience in the face of colonial oppression is a testament to the enduring nature of cultural traditions.
Today, the bowler hat continues to be a distinctive feature of Bolivian culture, with its presence extending beyond everyday wear. The hat is often showcased during religious festivals, where the clothing worn by participants reflects a blend of pre-Columbian Indian and 16th-century Spanish influences. The bowler hat's inclusion in these celebrations underscores its significance as a cherished symbol of Bolivia's rich cultural heritage.
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Jewellery: gold jewellery is used to accessorise the pollera
The pollera is a colourful, layered, pleated skirt, originally a Spanish dress that colonial authorities forced the indigenous populations to wear. Today, it is a symbol of pride for the indigenous people of Bolivia. The pollera is usually accessorised with gold jewellery, including earrings, necklaces, and combs.
Earrings are an important part of the jewellery ensemble for the pollera. The most popular types of earrings include tendrils, mosquetas, dormilonas, tangos, and gold rings. Tendrils are composed of three detachable parts: a small gold rosette with precious stones, a bow or a couple of gold leaves, and a larger piece like the first. At the end, a series of shiny inserts called "brights" are linked together and constantly move. Tendrils can be adorned with coloured stones in different shapes and sizes, such as rubies, emeralds, topaz, and jet black. Mosquetas are earrings worked with tomatillos and filigree and adorned with legitimate pearls. They are named so because they resemble bees crawling on flowers. Dormilonas, or sleepers, consist of a small coin with machined edges and a crescent moon holding a row of shiny inserts. Tangos and gold rings are worked with pearls or coral, with the gold-bearing bonds with tears being more popular in the Los Santos region.
In addition to earrings, necklaces are also commonly worn with the pollera. One type of necklace is the Tapahueso, a velvet or satin ribbon with a gold cross or medal that covers the dimple of the throat. Another type is the Dije de Filigrana, which features beautiful works in burnished opaque gold, watermarked in different colours, with shapes such as hearts, anchors, and butterflies. These necklaces can also hold precious stones, pearls, and filigree. The Scapular is another type of necklace that consists of a string with two rectangular gold plates at the ends, worked with designs copied from fabric scapulars. Over matte gold plates, a cross and the letter "S" for "sacred" or "holy" are stamped in burnished gold. Some scapulars have smooth edges, while others are worked with filigree and inlaid with precious stones.
Combs are also used to accessorise the pollera. In the Las Tablas region, empolleradas frequently used large oval combs in tortoiseshell and gold, as well as straight-cut combs adorned with beads or glitter. The heads were often adorned with two or three pairs of combs, with the shiniest ones featuring pearls, balconies shapes, or corals.
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Footwear: flat shoes or sandals, or leg warmers to prevent cold
Bolivian women's clothing varies across the country's different regions, climates, and cultures. However, when it comes to footwear, there are a few general options to choose from to prevent cold feet. These include flat shoes, sandals, and leg warmers.
Flat Shoes
In the city of Cochabamba, women typically wear flat shoes with a rounded toe. This style of shoe is commonly paired with the pollera, a pleated skirt that falls to the ankles. Flat shoes offer a comfortable and practical option for women, especially when walking on uneven surfaces or navigating busy city streets.
Sandals
In the warmer months, Bolivian women may opt for sandals to keep their feet cool and comfortable. In the past, indigenous women wore "ojotas," which were sandals made from strips of leather. Today, women in the city of Tarija commonly wear "abarcas," flat sandals made from leather or rubber. Sandals are a practical choice in warmer climates and can be easily paired with various outfits.
Leg Warmers
Leg warmers are a popular choice for Bolivian women, especially in colder regions or during the winter months. They can be worn with a variety of shoes, including boots or sandals, to provide an extra layer of warmth and comfort. Leg warmers are often knitted or crocheted and come in various styles, such as cable knit, ribbed, or braided. They are typically knee-high or thigh-high and can be worn with skirts or dresses to keep the legs warm. In addition to their practical use, leg warmers can also be a fashionable accessory, adding a stylish touch to an outfit.
Bolivian women have a variety of footwear options to choose from, depending on the region, climate, and personal style. Flat shoes, sandals, and leg warmers are practical and versatile choices that can be adapted to different weather conditions and outfits, ensuring that women stay comfortable and stylish throughout the year.
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Frequently asked questions
The traditional dress of women in Bolivia includes the pollera (a pleated or long decorative skirt), a silky shawl known as a manta, and a 19th-century European bowler hat. The pollera was originally a simple Spanish dress that colonial authorities forced the indigenous populations to wear.
Despite its origins, the pollera is now a symbol of pride for indigenous women in Bolivia, who view it as a part of their cultural identity.
Women in Bolivia typically wear the bowler hat slanted on their head, perched on top without any means to fasten it. The positioning of the hat is said to signify whether the wearer is married or unmarried.
Women in Bolivia typically wear other accessories like leg warmers, flat shoes or sandals, and braided hair tied with beads. They may also wear multiple polleras, with up to 20 layers of underskirts called centros.
