Belarusian Style: Traditional And Modern Clothing Choices

The traditional clothing of Belarus is steeped in history and cultural significance. Known as the Belarus National Dress, it comprises unique designs and embellishments that showcase the artistic skills of Belarusian craftsmen. The clothing varies between men and women, with men typically wearing shirts with ornamental embroidery, trousers, and a vest, while women wear long-sleeved dresses adorned with intricate embroidery and vibrant patterns. The colours and patterns of men's clothing are generally more subdued, emphasising simplicity and functionality. Belarus' geographic location has exposed it to influences from neighbouring cultures, including Poland, Russia, and Lithuania, resulting in a blend of styles, materials, and patterns. The country's rich agricultural history is reflected in the use of natural fabrics like linen, cotton, wool, and hemp in traditional clothing. Each region in Belarus also has unique variations in its national dress, highlighting the diversity and artistic expressions within the country.

Men's traditional clothing

The traditional male outfit in Belarus is very similar to that of other Slavic peoples. The basic components are a long linen shirt, trousers, a belt, outerwear, a hat, and shoes.

The shirt, typically made of homemade linen, usually reaches the knee and is worn outside the trousers, with a belt or sash. The trousers, also made of linen, do not reach the ankle, with the leg wrapped in linen or woolen cloth from the knee down. The outer garments vary and include coats, jackets, and vests, often made from thick, light-gray, handmade wool and adorned with red embroidery. Men's hats are usually made of felted wool, sheepskin, cloth, or plaited straw, depending on the season.

The traditional male outfit in Belarus is generally simpler and less diverse than female garments. The shirts, trousers, and outerwear are typically unadorned, with only the shirt featuring embroidery at the collar, cuffs, and shirtfront. The amount of embroidery is less than that found on women's shirts.

The traditional two-piece Belarusian dress, which includes a shirt and trousers for men and a longer shirt and wrap-around skirt for women, originated from the time of Kievan Rus'. The clothes were made of fabrics that provided warmth and closed coverage due to the cool climate. They were often adorned with symbolic ornaments or woven with threads of different colours.

Women's traditional clothing

The traditional clothing of Belarus is influenced by its historical ties with Russia, Ukraine, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, and other European nations. The clothing is also adapted to the country's cool climate, with an emphasis on warmth and closed coverings.

The basic components of the traditional female costume in Belarus are a long linen shirt and a skirt. The shirt is typically longer than the male version and is worn with a wrap-around skirt called a "paniova". The skirt is made from woollen, half-woollen, or linen fabric and is constructed of several pieces of cloth sewn together. The "paniova" is the earliest type of skirt and consists of four pieces of cloth attached to a waistband but left unsewn at the sides.

Married women also wear an apron, or "fartukh", as an obligatory part of their ensemble. The apron is usually made of linen and has a waistband. It can be made of one, two, two and a half, or even three pieces of cloth, typically matching the length of the skirt. Aprons from the southeast of the country are decorated with woven or embroidered designs, while those from the northwest are plainer and used only for work.

In some regions, women also wear sleeveless vests called "kabat", "shnurowka", or "harset". These vests are usually brightly coloured and decorated with embroidery or appliqué work. They are fastened at the front or slightly to the side with buttons covered in the same material.

Headgear is another important aspect of the traditional female costume in Belarus. Unmarried women typically leave their heads uncovered, wearing their hair in braids or with a narrow ornamented strip of cloth bound around their head. After marriage, a woman changes her hairstyle and headgear, often covering her hair completely with a long piece of fine white linen cloth, or "nametka", that is twisted and secured in a specific manner. Caps, or "kaptury", are also common, especially in the form of a soft fabric sewn or knitted cap tied under the chin or at the back. "Kaptury" caps are usually highly embellished with embroidery, beads, and lace, while those tied at the back are decorated only on the forehead part. By the early 20th century, kerchiefs had become the most common headgear for women across Belarus.

Fabrics and materials

The fabrics and materials used in traditional Belarusian clothing have evolved over time, reflecting the country's diverse cultural and historical influences. The climate of Belarus has also played a role in the choice of materials, with a focus on warmth and closed covering due to the cool weather.

In ancient times, traditional clothing was primarily made from locally sourced materials such as linen, wool, and hemp, which were chosen for their durability and suitability for the region's climate. These fabrics were often homemade and decorated with woven and embroidered ornaments. The basic component of both male and female costumes is a long linen shirt, with women wearing a skirt made from woollen, half-woollen, or linen fabric. The paniova, the earliest type of skirt, consists of pieces of cloth, often four, attached to a waistband but left unsewn at the sides.

During the Renaissance and Baroque periods, trade and interactions with neighbouring countries introduced new styles and fabrics, including richer materials like silk and velvet for more formal attire. Elaborate embroidery and decorative elements were also incorporated into the clothing, with patterns and symbols carrying religious and mystical meanings.

In the 19th century, the influence of Russian and Polish cultures became more pronounced, and new fashion elements were adopted while preserving traditional aspects. The 20th century brought about changes due to World Wars and Soviet rule, with traditional attire becoming less common in daily life. However, in recent years, there has been a revival of interest in traditional Belarusian clothing, with modern designers and cultural organisations working to preserve and reinterpret these garments.

Today, traditional Belarusian clothing continues to be made from natural fabrics such as linen and cotton, ensuring comfort and breathability. Embroidery plays a crucial role, with intricate stitches, thread work, and decorative patterns showcasing the artistic prowess of Belarusian craftsmen. The embroidery often includes geometric patterns, floral motifs, and symbolic designs that reflect the wearer's region and status.

The choice of colours in traditional Belarusian clothing is also significant. Red symbolises vitality and passion, green represents nature and fertility, black signifies the earth and fertility, white denotes purity and innocence, and blue and green are also commonly used.

Footwear

For everyday wear, both men and women typically wore shoes made from bast, leather, or rope. These materials were practical and durable, providing comfort and protection for the varied Belarusian terrain. On special occasions and holidays, footwear choices became more elaborate. Men often donned high boots, while women opted for heels or high boots, elevating their ensembles with style.

The climate in Belarus can be quite cold during the winter months, so outerwear and footwear played a crucial role in providing warmth and protection from the elements. Both men and women wore the "svitka," an overcoat made from homemade cloth by professional tailors. For footwear, men traditionally wore sturdy leather boots, often handmade and adorned with decorative stitching or embossed patterns. These boots were practical and durable, designed to withstand the harsh winters.

Women's footwear, on the other hand, offered a contrast in style. Embroidered slippers were a popular choice for women, adding a touch of elegance and craftsmanship to their outfits. These slippers were not only comfortable but also contributed to the overall aesthetic appeal of the national dress. The embroidery on the slippers often featured intricate patterns and vibrant colours, reflecting the wearer's regional background and artistic sensibilities.

The footwear choices of Belarusians reflect the country's cultural exchange and historical events. The leather boots worn by men showcase the practical needs of the region's climate, while the embroidered slippers favoured by women add a touch of artistry and regional variation to their attire. Thus, the footwear plays a significant role in the overall traditional Belarusian costume, blending functionality with cultural expression.

Headwear

Kachimushka

The kachimushka is a type of headscarf worn by married women to cover their hair completely. It is often decorated with intricate embroidery or lacework. The style of the kachimushka can vary depending on the region and is considered a symbol of femininity and modesty.

Floral Wreaths

Unmarried girls and women often adorn their hair with floral wreaths, especially during festivals and celebrations like Kupala Night. These wreaths are made from fresh flowers, herbs, and ribbons, symbolising youth, purity, and their connection to nature.

Caps

In the past, women wore caps called "kaptury" that were tied under the chin or at the back. Kaptury caps were typically embellished with embroidery, beads, and lace. Over time, the style of caps evolved, and by the early 20th century, women stopped wearing them, opting for kerchiefs instead.

Kerchiefs

Kerchiefs, or headscarves, became the most common form of headgear for women across Belarus. They are often decorated with floral motifs and are considered a symbol of femininity and modesty.

Men's Hats

Traditional headwear for men in Belarus includes hats made from felted wool, sheepskin, cloth, or plaited straw. These hats can vary in style and design, reflecting regional differences and the wearer's social status.

Frequently asked questions