The Fearless Bolivian Cholitas: Cultural Icons

Bolivian cholitas are indigenous women from the Aymara tribe, recognisable for their distinctive bowler hats, long braids, and colourful pleated skirts. The term cholita was once derogatory, but has since been reclaimed by the women it once sought to demean. Today, the cholitas of Bolivia are known for their pride, fashion, and entrepreneurial spirit. They are a powerful symbol of Bolivia and its history and traditions.

Bolivian cholitas are indigenous Aymara and Quechua women who were historically discriminated against

Bolivian cholitas have been the target of severe racial and social discrimination. Until as recently as 10-15 years ago, they were ostracised and marginalised, facing heavy discrimination in their daily lives. They were banned from certain public spaces and public transport, denied access to services, and frequently harassed. They were not permitted to walk in the central square of La Paz, Plaza Murillo, or in wealthy areas of the city. They were also restricted from certain career paths and their movement was limited.

The discrimination faced by cholitas stems from the colonial attitudes of Spanish colonial rule. During this time, the Spanish forced indigenous people to adopt European clothing, and these outfits have since become part of the traditional dress and cultural identity of cholitas. The distinctive bowler hats worn by cholitas, for example, are said to have been introduced when a shipment of hats intended for male railway workers arrived too small, and were instead given to indigenous women to wear.

In recent years, the situation for cholitas has begun to improve. The election of Evo Morales as Bolivia's first indigenous president in 2006 brought about significant change, with cholitas gaining a higher status in society and becoming more visible in politics, television, and fashion. This shift has been further supported by the rise of feminism and changing societal attitudes about the place of women.

Cholitas today are breaking stereotypes and forging new paths for themselves, with women becoming mountaineers, wrestlers, entrepreneurs, and successful figures in media and politics. They are reclaiming their indigenous heritage and celebrating their culture with pride.

They wear distinctive, colourful outfits, including bowler hats, puffed skirts, and long braids

The Cholitas of Bolivia are known for their distinctive and colourful outfits, which include English-inspired high bowler hats, puffed skirts, and long braids. This unique attire has become a strong symbol of Bolivia, and the Cholitas themselves are an iconic part of the country's cultural identity.

The bowler hat, in particular, has an interesting history. It is said that during the colonial period, the Spaniards ordered a large number of bowler hats for male railroad workers. However, the hats arrived either too small or in the wrong colour. Not wanting them to go to waste, they gave the hats to the indigenous women, and thus a signature part of the Cholitas' wardrobe was born. The way the hat is worn on the head also conveys information about the marital status of the wearer. If the hat is worn straight, the woman is married, while a tilt to the side indicates that she is single, divorced, or widowed.

The Cholitas' skirts are also a notable part of their ensemble. Known as "polleras", these skirts are often puffed, multilayered, and colourful. In the cool climate of La Paz, the polleras are long and layered over many petticoats to cover the calf, which is considered the sexiest part of a Cholita's body. In warmer regions, such as Cochabamba and Sucre, the skirts are typically knee-length and may not be layered.

In addition to the hats and skirts, Cholitas also wear long braids, lacy blouses, and long shawls called "mantas". Their hair is usually long and thick, styled in two plaits that are fastened together at the bottom with extensions called "tullmas" to encourage growth and make the braids appear even longer.

The Cholitas' outfits are a blend of European influences from the colonial era and the indigenous Aymara and Quechua cultures of Bolivia. While the clothing may have originated from European trends, the Cholitas have made it their own, moulding it to their liking and creating a unique and powerful symbol of their heritage and identity.

Their hats are worn in specific ways to indicate their marital status

The Bolivian Cholitas are indigenous women from the Aymara and Quechua cultures, two of Bolivia's 36 recognised indigenous groups. They are known for their distinctive dress, including bowler hats, long black braids, colourful skirts, and shawls. This unique fashion sense has made them an iconic symbol of Bolivia and the Central Andes.

The Cholitas' bowler hats, in particular, are worn in specific ways to indicate the wearer's marital status. While the hats themselves are said to have originated from a shipment of bowler hats intended for railroad workers that were too small, the way Cholitas wear these hats conveys information about their relationship status.

Traditionally, if a Cholita's bowler hat is worn straight upright on the top of her head, it indicates that she is married. Tilting the hat to the side signifies that the woman is single, divorced, or widowed. Additionally, wearing the hat towards the back of the head is often joked about as indicating a "complicated" relationship status, a nod to the modern influence of social media platforms like Facebook on this traditional practice.

The Cholitas' hats are not secured to their heads with any clips or fasteners, and maintaining the balance of the hat contributes to the poise and elegance for which these women are known. The bowler hat has become an integral part of the Cholitas' traditional attire and a source of national pride for Bolivia.

Cholitas have gained more social and economic power in recent years, entering politics, media, and business

Cholitas, young Bolivian women who self-identify as members of an indigenous culture, have gained more social and economic power in recent years, entering politics, media, and business. This shift can be attributed to the election of Evo Morales, Bolivia's first indigenous president, in 2006, as well as the rise of grassroots movements in the country. Morales implemented policies and laws that promoted the rights and culture of indigenous people, such as mandating the learning of indigenous languages in the education system.

In the political sphere, Cristina Choque Paxi became a congresswoman in Bolivia's National Parliament, while Reveca Cruz Sangali serves as the president of El Alto's infrastructure commission. Bertha Acarapi, a former alderwoman, became the second cholita to work in Bolivian television as a news anchor. In the business world, Catalina Tola Silvera owns a factory in El Alto that employs over 50 people and includes six retail stores. In the realm of media and fashion, Rosario Aguilar, a former city politician, founded a modelling school for indigenous women and a company promoting fashion designers who create clothes for cholitas.

Cholitas are also breaking barriers in other fields. Prof Celia Laura became the first indigenous woman to teach in a private school, instructing students in the Aymara language. Elizabeth Ramos is pursuing a history degree at El Alto Public University, while Sara Quispe Mamani is the second cholita to drive a public bus in La Paz. In sports, indigenous women have gained popularity as wrestlers, and a group of cholitas even hopes to become the first Bolivian women to summit Mount Everest while wearing the traditional pollera skirts.

Despite these advancements, cholitas still face discrimination and social inequality. They continue to advocate for their civil rights and work to break free from stereotypes and marginalisation.

They are celebrated in popular culture, with cholita fashion shows, beauty pageants, and modelling schools

Cholitas are celebrated in popular culture through fashion shows, beauty pageants, and modelling schools. Their distinctive, elegant outfits have become a driving force in modern Bolivia, with cholita fashion now a prominent feature in the country's economic and social landscape.

Cholita fashion shows are a relatively recent phenomenon, with designer Rosario Aguilar commenting that it was initially difficult to encourage designers and cholitas to participate. However, this has changed drastically, and there is now a long list of people wanting to be involved. These fashion shows provide a platform for local fashion designers to showcase their creations, with cholitas presenting their work on the catwalk.

Beauty pageants, such as the Cholita Alteña pageant contest, have also played a role in empowering cholitas and providing opportunities for advancement. Bertha Acarapi, a news anchor and the second cholita to work in Bolivian television, won the Cholita Alteña pageant, which helped launch her career in the media industry.

Modelling schools, such as Bolivia's first cholita modelling school based in the Hotel Torino, aim to train indigenous women to become professional models for cholita fashion designers. This initiative was started by Rosario Aguilar, a lawyer, former city politician, and passionate promoter of cholita fashion and culture.

The celebration of cholita fashion and beauty in popular culture has contributed to the empowerment and advancement of indigenous women in Bolivia. It has provided a platform for cholitas to challenge stereotypes, gain confidence, and increase their social and economic standing. This resurgence has seen cholitas move from being "maids of the middle classes" to having a significant presence in various industries, including fashion, media, politics, and business.

The rise of cholitas in popular culture reflects the massive social change that has occurred in Bolivia, with grassroots movements, the election of the country's first indigenous president, and the promotion of indigenous rights and culture all contributing to their increased visibility and influence.

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