Exploring Bolivia's Traditional Clothing And Culture

Traditional Bolivian clothing varies across the country's many different cultures and ethnic groups. The country's cultural development is divided into three distinct periods: pre-Columbian, colonial, and republican, each of which has influenced the traditional dress of its indigenous people. Today, the traditional dress of Bolivia is very similar to that of neighbouring Peru, with regional variations within the country.

The pollera, a colourful, layered, pleated skirt

The pollera is a colourful, layered, pleated skirt, originally a simple Spanish peasant-style dress. It was forced upon indigenous women by Spanish colonial rulers, who made native women discard their previous traditional clothes in favour of something more in keeping with what was worn by poorer people in Spain. The pollera was intended to be a way to easily identify and set apart the often looked-down-upon native community.

Despite its origins, the pollera is now a symbol of pride for indigenous people, particularly those in La Paz and rural areas. It is seen as a status symbol for women who are proud of their heritage and roots. The pollera is typically worn with a manta, a type of brightly coloured silky shawl, a frilly blouse, and a practical apron. To finish the outfit, a 19th-century European bowler hat, known locally as a bombin, is perched on top of the head. The overall effect is very vivid and striking.

The pollera varies in length and volume depending on the region. In La Paz, the pollera is long and reaches down to the ankles, while in Cochabamba, Chuquisaca, and Tarija, the skirts are shorter, falling just to the knees or even higher. The pollera in Tarija is the shortest in the country.

While many older women wear the pollera as part of their everyday attire, younger women are increasingly adopting Western-style clothing, such as jeans and t-shirts. For this younger generation, the traditional outfit is often reserved for special occasions, celebrations, and festivals.

The manta, a brightly coloured silky shawl

The manta is a brightly coloured silky shawl worn by the Andean women of indigenous descent in Bolivia. It is a key part of the traditional dress of Bolivia, which varies across the country's different regions. The manta is usually worn with a pollera, a colourful, layered, pleated skirt, a frilly blouse, a practical apron, and leg warmers. The outfit is completed with a 19th-century European bowler hat, known locally as a bombin. The overall effect is very vivid and striking.

The pollera was originally a simple Spanish dress that colonial rulers forced the indigenous populations to wear. It was intended to set apart the native community, who were often looked down upon. However, today, the pollera is a symbol of pride for indigenous people and part of their cultural identity. The ability to change and adapt an old-fashioned style of skirt is seen as a form of empowerment.

The traditional dress of Bolivia is worn daily by many older women, especially in rural areas. However, for younger women, it is usually reserved for special occasions, celebrations, and festivals. This is partly due to the cost of the outfit and the accessories, which are often gold jewellery. In larger cities, younger women are also concerned about facing discrimination because of their traditional dress and feeling uncomfortable in universal styles of dress.

The manta is an important part of the traditional Bolivian outfit, providing warmth and a vibrant splash of colour. It is usually pinned together at the front with a long stick pin or large safety pin. In some regions, such as Cochabamba and Tarija, the manta is smaller and lighter, often embroidered with flowers or other designs and hemmed with fringe.

The chola style, worn by the Aymara, South America's second-largest indigenous group

The chola wardrobe typically includes a multi-layered, pleated skirt called a "pollera", which is a symbol of pride for indigenous women. The pollera was originally a simple Spanish dress that colonial authorities forced the indigenous populations to wear to set them apart from the colonial rulers. Today, it has been reclaimed as a symbol of cultural identity and empowerment, with women adapting and changing the style to suit their tastes. The pollera is often worn with a "manta", a brightly coloured silky shawl, a frilly blouse, and a practical apron. To complete the look, cholas wear a 19th-century European bowler hat, known locally as "bombin", usually in vibrant colours.

The style of the pollera and the accompanying accessories can vary from one state to another in Bolivia. For example, in La Paz, the pollera skirt is long and reaches down to the ankles, while in Cochabamba and Chuquisaca, the skirts are shorter and only go down to the knees. Similarly, the style of the manta (shawl) and the type of hat and shoes worn can differ between regions.

In recent years, the election of an indigenous president, Evo Morales, in 2006 has ushered in a new era of pride in indigenous culture in Bolivia. Designers like Glenda Yanez are incorporating the styles of indigenous Aymara women into high fashion, changing preconceptions about their traditional dress. With their newfound spending power, chola women are importing tailor-made textiles from China, ensuring they have the right fabrics and colour combinations for their unique style of clothing.

The pre-colonial clothing of the tribes that inhabited the Eastern Bolivian plains

The nomadic tribes of the Bolivian lowlands were never fully conquered or assimilated by the Inca Empire, and they largely preserved their way of life even after the Spanish conquest. However, the clothing of the tribes changed dramatically in the 17th century when the first indigenous reservations were created and directed by the Church in Moxos and Chiquitos (in the departments of Beni and Santa Cruz) and in the Chaco region (which covers portions of Santa Cruz, Chuquisaca, and Tarija). The Jesuits imposed a new style of dress on the indigenous people: a long, sleeveless, cream-coloured cotton tunic that reached the ankles, and "abarcas" (flat sandals made from leather or rubber) on their feet. Men were made to cut their hair in a "mushroom" style. Women were forced to braid their hair in one or two braids and could only adorn themselves with a necklace with a cross or a flower during festivities.

Over time, this style of dress evolved and became more colourful. The women's tunic became a dress with colourful ribbons and a frilled collar, made from strong, bright colours instead of the original dull raw cotton. Men began to wear wide-cut pants and shirts, made from light-coloured cotton, and a hat made from woven palm fronds called a "saó". This style of dress is still worn in Eastern Bolivia during festivities or at tourist attractions.

The clothing of the Quechua people, conquered by the Incan Empire

The Quechua people, who predominantly live in Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Chile, Colombia, and Argentina, speak the Quechua language, which was also the language of the Inca Empire. The Quechua people are believed to be the descendants of the Inca Empire.

The Quechua clothing before the Spanish colonisation of South America was colourful but simple. Men and women wore rectangular tunics, with the women's reaching down to their ankles and the men's being shorter. The women wore their hair in a long braid down the back, sometimes covering it with a shawl. The men wore a strip of cloth to cover their backside, and both genders wore sandals made from strips of leather. In the winter, both men and women wore capes made from alpaca or vicuña fibre, depending on their social class. The various social classes could be distinguished by the colours and fabrics used for their clothing, as well as the way they were decorated. The noble class wore headdresses adorned with gold, gems, and feathers, while the lower noble classes wore woven winter caps with earflaps.

When the Spanish arrived, they imposed European clothing on the indigenous population, with some adaptations to local customs and the climate. The women's dress became a long, pleated skirt, a lacey or embroidered blouse, a shawl, and boots. The men wore pants, a short jacket, a cape, a wide-brimmed hat, and leather boots.

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