Brunei is a small but wealthy country located on the island of Borneo. It is often overlooked by travellers, but it offers a unique blend of traditional culture and luxury. The country boasts beautiful landscapes, impressive architecture, and friendly people. It is also one of the safest and cleanest countries in Southeast Asia, with a low crime rate and little to no litter.
However, there is a notable lack of tourist attractions in Brunei, and some find the country boring. Alcohol is also strictly forbidden, even for non-Muslims. Despite this, the country's capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, is worth visiting for its stunning mosques and the fascinating Kampong Ayer, a historic settlement built on stilts over the river.
Overall, Brunei may not be a top travel destination, but it is worth considering for a short trip, especially if you are already visiting neighbouring countries.
What You'll Learn
- Brunei's natural wonders: the Ulu Temburong National Park, the Belait, Tutong, and Brunei rivers, and the Kampong Ayer Water Village
- The food scene: the Gadong Night Market, ambuyat, and chicken butt
- The culture: the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the Royal Regalia Museum, and the lack of personal income tax
- The people: the friendly, hospitable locals
- The history: the Brunei Revolt, the long history of monarchical rule, and the country's independence
Brunei's natural wonders: the Ulu Temburong National Park, the Belait, Tutong, and Brunei rivers, and the Kampong Ayer Water Village
Brunei is a country in Southeast Asia, situated on the northern coast of the island of Borneo. It is surrounded by the Malaysian state of Sarawak and has a coastline on the South China Sea. Brunei is a constitutional absolute monarchy ruled by the Sultan, with Islam as the state religion. The country has a rich history, having been a powerful maritime state during the reign of Sultan Bolkiah in the 15th and 16th centuries. It has a population of around 455,000 people, with about 180,000 residing in the capital and largest city, Bandar Seri Begawan.
Brunei boasts several natural wonders, including the Ulu Temburong National Park, the Belait, Tutong, and Brunei rivers, and the Kampong Ayer Water Village. Here is a more detailed look at each of these fascinating places:
Ulu Temburong National Park
Ulu Temburong National Park is the first national park established in Brunei and has been protected since 1991. It is located in the Temburong District in eastern Brunei and covers approximately 550 square kilometres (210 square miles). The park is known for its unspoiled jungle and is often referred to as the "Green Jewel of Brunei". It is an important ecotourism centre, offering a glimpse into the country's diverse flora and fauna. The park is home to lowland rainforests, hilly regions, and coastal areas, with a variety of plant and animal species, including the Eastern grey gibbon, squirrels, and a wide range of butterfly species.
The Belait River
The Belait River is a short stream on the island of Borneo, flowing through Brunei and discharging into the South China Sea. It is the largest river in the country and flows through swampy terrain for about 20 miles (32 kilometres). At its mouth lies Kuala Belait, one of Brunei's important towns and the centre of an offshore oil field.
The Tutong River
The Tutong River is one of the rivers that drain the western segment of Brunei, along with the Belait and Brunei rivers. It flows northward to the South China Sea.
The Brunei River
The Brunei River flows through the country and empties into the Brunei Bay towards the northeast. It is the shortest major river in Brunei and flows through the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan. The Istana Nurul Iman, the official residence of the Sultan of Brunei, stands on its banks.
Kampong Ayer Water Village
Kampong Ayer, also known as the 'Venice of the East', is a traditional settlement in Bandar Seri Begawan. It comprises neighbourhoods of houses, schools, and mosques built on stilts above the Brunei River. It has a rich history, dating back to the 14th or 15th century, and was once the primary settlement area of the Bruneian Empire. Today, it offers a unique glimpse into the traditional way of life in Brunei, with an extensive network of walkways and pedestrian bridges connecting the stilted structures.
These natural wonders showcase the beauty and diversity of Brunei's landscape, from its lush rainforests to its winding rivers and traditional water villages. They are a testament to the country's commitment to preserving its natural environment and cultural heritage.
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The food scene: the Gadong Night Market, ambuyat, and chicken butt
Brunei's food scene is a delightful mix of traditional dishes, exotic fruits, and grilled delights. The Gadong Night Market in the Brunei/Muara District is a food lover's paradise, offering a variety of local treats and a glimpse into Bruneian culture. Operating from 4 pm to midnight, the market showcases the best of Brunei's culinary delights.
One of the highlights of the Gadong Night Market is ambuyat, the national dish of Brunei. Derived from the interior trunk of the sago palm, ambuyat is a starchy, bland substance similar to tapioca starch. It is typically eaten with a bamboo chopstick called a "chandas", dipped into a variety of sauces. Ambuyat is a local specialty not just in Brunei but also in the nearby Malaysian states of Sarawak, Sabah, and Labuan, where it is sometimes known as "linut".
Another unique aspect of Brunei's food scene is the presence of "chicken butt", also known as "chicken buttocks" or "Qilixiang". This triangular piece of meat is considered a delicacy in Brunei, often grilled or fried to remove excess fat. While some consider it a rare treat, others avoid it due to the presence of the "tail fat gland" and the "supercavitary sac", which are important lymphatic tissues that may contain harmful bacteria.
The Gadong Night Market offers a range of other delights, including roti John (a Bruneian version of a flattened burger), satay (meat skewers), grilled meats and fish, and local sweets such as kueh malaya (pancakes with filling). Visitors can also indulge in exotic fruits like durian and cempedak (jackfruit). With food being cooked right in front of you and costing no more than USD 2, the Gadong Night Market provides an authentic Malay culinary experience.
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The culture: the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the Royal Regalia Museum, and the lack of personal income tax
The Culture
The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, or the SOAS Mosque for short, is one of two state mosques in Brunei. It was built by the 28th Sultan of Brunei, Omar Ali Saifuddien III, and is named after him. The mosque is known for its gold dome, which dominates the skyline of Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital of Brunei. The mosque is situated in the middle of a man-made lagoon with a ceremonial stone barge and is decorated with rugs from Saudi Arabia and Italian marble. The mosque's general architectural style is primarily influenced by the Mughal Empire, with elements of Islam and Brunei throughout. It is one of the biggest and most striking mosques in the Far East, completed in 1958 at a cost of US$5 million.
The Royal Regalia Museum
The Royal Regalia Museum is a tribute to the Sultan of Brunei and showcases the grand trappings of Royalty. The main gallery presents an impressive recreation of the coronation of His Majesty The Sultan, displaying the gilded carriage which carried the newly crowned Sultan through the streets of the capital city, along with gold and silver ceremonial armour. The museum also showcases a selection of Royal Regalia from His Majesty's childhood up to his coronation, including jewel-encrusted crowns, thrones, garments, and a revered silver dagger. The museum provides a glimpse of Brunei's royalty and houses an array of gifts bestowed upon the Sultan by foreign and local dignitaries.
Lack of Personal Income Tax
Brunei has no personal income tax. This is due to the country's vast petroleum and natural gas fields, which have made Brunei the fourth-richest nation in the world in terms of GDP per capita. The Bruneian government provides for all medical services and subsidises rice and housing.
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The people: the friendly, hospitable locals
Brunei is a small but wealthy country on the northern coast of the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia. It is one of the least-visited countries in Asia, with a population of less than 500,000. The people of Brunei are known for their friendliness and hospitality, and this is reflected in the many positive experiences that visitors have had with the locals.
One traveller describes how a stranger offered them a ride when they were walking into the city centre, and how the woman who owned the guesthouse they were staying at spontaneously took them to a local night market and showed them around the country. Another traveller mentions how a local man offered to show them around the Kampong Ayer, a series of floating villages where three per cent of Bruneians live. The man had grown up in this group of villages and was able to tell them about his life on the water.
The people of Brunei are also known for their kindness. One traveller mentions how a local woman picked them up and drove them to one of her favourite restaurants, where she treated them to a meal. Another traveller mentions how a local man gave them a ride to the waterfront when they were looking for somewhere to have lunch.
The Bruneian people are also known for their generosity. One traveller mentions how the owner of the guesthouse they were staying at picked them up from the airport and asked them what they loved to do most when they travelled. When they replied that they loved to eat, she took them to a local night market. Another traveller mentions how a local man took them on a boat trip to see the proboscis monkeys and the Kampong Ayer. When it came time to pay for the trip, there was a misunderstanding about the price, but they were able to settle on a price that was higher than what they had originally agreed on but lower than what the man was asking for.
Overall, the people of Brunei are known for their friendliness, hospitality, kindness, and generosity. Visitors to the country often mention how welcomed and safe they felt during their time there.
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The history: the Brunei Revolt, the long history of monarchical rule, and the country's independence
The Brunei Revolt
The Brunei Revolt, or the Brunei Rebellion of 1962, was an insurrection by opponents of the monarchy and its proposed inclusion in the Federation of Malaysia. The insurgents were members of the North Kalimantan National Army (TNKU), a militia supplied by Indonesia and linked to the left-wing Brunei People's Party (BPP). The revolt began on 8 December 1962, with coordinated attacks on the oil town of Seria, police stations, and government facilities. The revolt failed to achieve key objectives and broke down within hours. However, it influenced the Sultan's decision in 1963 not to join Malaysia.
Monarchical Rule
The history of Brunei concerns settlements and societies on the north coast of the island of Borneo, which has been under the influence of Indianised kingdoms and empires for much of its history. The earliest record of Bruneian people can be traced back to the presence of Austro-Melanesians around 40,000 B.C.E. in Niah Cave, Sarawak. The migration wave from Taiwan reached the Philippines via Palawan, and from there, at least three groups began to form distinct communities, with one group migrating to Borneo.
The earliest Chinese records of an independent kingdom in Borneo date back to a letter sent to the Chinese emperor in 977 AD by the ruler of Boni, believed to refer to Borneo. In the 14th century, the Bruneian Empire became a thalassocracy that covered the northern part of Borneo and Sulu. It is believed that the Islamisation of Brunei began in the 15th century, and by the end of the 17th century, the empire entered a period of decline due to civil war, piracy, and European colonial expansion.
During the 19th century, the Bruneian Empire began to decline further, ceding territory to the White Rajahs of Sarawak, resulting in its current small landmass and separation into two parts. In 1888, Brunei became a British protectorate, with the British signing a "Treaty of Protection" to obtain security assurances. This treaty essentially handed over Brunei's foreign affairs to Britain.
Independence
Brunei gained its independence from the United Kingdom on 1 January 1984, joining ASEAN in the same year. Economic growth from its extensive petroleum and natural gas fields during the 1990s and 2000s transformed Brunei into an industrialised country.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, Brunei is considered a safe place to visit. It has a low crime rate and visitors often comment on how welcomed and safe they feel during their stay.
Brunei has a number of tourist attractions, including the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the Royal Regalia Museum, the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, the Gadong Night Market, and the Kampong Ayer Water Village.
Brunei has a variety of food options, including local dishes such as ambuyat and international cuisine. Visitors can find everything from local night markets to high-end restaurants.
The best way to get around Brunei depends on your preferences and budget. There are options for renting a car, taking a bus, or using ride-sharing services such as Dart.
The climate in Brunei is tropical and equatorial, with warm temperatures throughout the year. The monsoon winds bring rainfall, with heavier rainfall typically occurring from October to January and lighter rainfall from March to August.