Brunei: A Holiday Destination Worth Considering?

Brunei is a small, oil-rich nation on the island of Borneo. It is known for its serene landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and unique attractions. The country blends tradition and modernity, offering visitors a one-of-a-kind experience. While it may not be a top tourist destination, Brunei has its fair share of interesting places to visit and things to do.

The capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, is home to the iconic Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the Venice of the East Kampong Ayer (a stilt village) and the Royal Regalia Museum. Beyond the capital, there's the pristine Ulu Temburong National Park, with its canopy walkway and river safaris, and the serene Pantai Seri Kenangan beach. Brunei also boasts a vibrant food scene, with the Gadong Night Market and local delicacies like ambuyat, a starchy dish made from the sago palm.

Despite its attractions, Brunei has a controversial side. The implementation of Sharia law in 2019 brought harsh punishments and restrictions on freedom of speech and the press. Additionally, the country has been criticised for its treatment of minorities and lack of LGBTQ+ rights.

So, is Brunei a good holiday destination? It depends on what you're looking for. If you're seeking a unique blend of culture and nature, with a dose of controversy, then Brunei might be worth considering. However, as one travel blogger put it, you probably shouldn't spend more than a couple of days there as activities are limited.

Brunei's serene landscapes and rich cultural heritage

Brunei is a small nation on the island of Borneo, known for its serene landscapes and rich cultural heritage. The country's full name, Brunei Darussalam, means "abode of peace" in Arabic, and it certainly lives up to that name with its lush greenery and peaceful atmosphere.

One of the highlights of Brunei is the Ulu Temburong National Park, often referred to as the "Green Jewel" of the country. This park boasts pristine rainforests, diverse wildlife, and beautiful waterfalls. Visitors can explore the park through guided tours, including jungle trekking, canopy walks, and river cruises. The canopy walkway, in particular, offers stunning views of the rainforest from above, with platforms rising up to 50 meters.

Another must-see destination is the Kampong Ayer, or the "Venice of the East." This historic water village is one of the world's largest stilt villages, showcasing traditional wooden houses and cultural heritage. Taking a boat tour of this village is a great way to experience the local lifestyle and culture.

Brunei also offers a unique culinary experience with its national dish, Ambuyat. This sticky, dough-like substance is made from the inner trunk of the sago palm and is usually dipped into flavourful sauces. Other popular dishes include Nasi Katok, a simple yet delicious combination of steamed rice and curry or fried chicken, and Kelupis, a glutinous rice snack cooked with coconut milk and pandan leaves.

In addition to its natural beauty and cuisine, Brunei also has a rich cultural and historical heritage. The Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, with its stunning architecture and serene lagoon, is an iconic landmark. The Royal Regalia Museum provides a glimpse into the opulence of the monarchy, displaying the regalia and gifts received by the Sultan. The Istana Nurul Iman, the official residence of the Sultan, is another grand palace that opens its doors to the public during the Hari Raya celebrations.

The Ulu Temburong National Park

The park can only be reached by river and is accessed by longboats from the capital city of Bandar Seri Begawan. The first destination by boat is Bangar town, where the Limbang River emerges from Sarawak and drains into Brunei Bay with mangrove muddy deltas. Travel from Bangar town to Batang Duri is by road, and it is the starting point for travel by longboat along the Temburong River into the Park. The boats are navigated by experienced Iban people, winding through sand bars, logs, and boulders.

The park is known for its unspoiled jungle and rich biodiversity, with vegetation in the form of tropical lowland rainforests. The primary lowland and hill forests are Dipterocarp forests, while the lower montane forests are found in the southern part of the park. Mangroves are seen in the coastal areas, and rattan species are common at the ground level of the forests. Other notable plant varieties include gingers, begonias, gesneriads, aroids, and Ixora blooms. Along the river courses, palm, fern, moss, and lichen species can be found.

The only accommodation inside the park is the Ulu Ulu Resort, which offers a mix of rooms, including dormitory, standard, superior, and deluxe options. The resort also features a conference room, auditorium, restaurant, gift shop, and games room. Visitors are required to book a Ulu Temburong National Park tour package in advance to stay at the resort.

Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital city

Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital of Brunei, is a must-visit destination when in the country. It is the largest urban centre and the only city in Brunei. Bandar Seri Begawan is home to Istana Nurul Iman, the largest residential palace in the world, and Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, Brunei's iconic landmark. The city was renamed in 1970 to commemorate the 28th Sultan of Brunei, Omar Ali Saifuddien III, and his contributions to the country's modernisation.

The city is divided into several mukims and villages, including Mukim Berakas 'A', Mukim Berakas 'B', Mukim Burong Pingai Ayer, and Mukim Gadong 'A'. It is located in the Brunei-Muara District, the smallest yet most populous area in the country. Bandar Seri Begawan is known for its serene beauty, with the Brunei River flowing into Brunei Bay, and serves as the country's commercial and cultural centre.

The city has a rich history that dates back to the 16th century when it became the capital of the Bruneian Sultanate. It was formerly known as Brunei Town and served as a major hub for piracy and the trade of stolen goods and slaves. Over time, the city has grown and developed, with modern administration and infrastructure established in the 20th century. Today, Bandar Seri Begawan is a bustling centre with a mix of historical and cultural attractions, making it a fascinating place to explore.

When visiting Bandar Seri Begawan, there are several notable sites to explore. The Gadong Night Market offers a diverse range of local cuisine and specialties, while the Kianggeh Market, believed to be the oldest in Brunei, sells local produce, seafood, and fruit. The city is also home to several important mosques, including the Ash-Shaliheen Mosque, Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, and the Pro-Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption.

In addition to its religious sites, Bandar Seri Begawan also boasts impressive historical landmarks. The Lapau, traditionally used for royal ceremonies, and the Old Lapau, now a gallery in the Brunei History Centre, are cultural highlights. The city's suburb, Kampong Ayer, is a collection of stilt villages built over the Brunei River and is known as the "Venice of the East." With its rich history, cultural significance, and beautiful natural surroundings, Bandar Seri Begawan is a must-visit destination when exploring Brunei.

The food scene, including the national dish of ambuyat

Brunei's food scene is heavily influenced by its natural resources and religious beliefs. As an Islamic nation, pork is entirely absent from the menu, and beef is deemed a luxury due to its high cost. Brunei takes great care to ensure all meat is halal-certified, and the absence of alcohol from dining experiences invites visitors to immerse themselves in the authentic Bruneian culture.

The national dish of Brunei is Ambuyat, a type of starch derived from the trunk of a sago palm. It is cooked as a delicacy and consumed with a two-pronged bamboo utensil known as 'chandas'. Ambuyat is eaten with a variety of side dishes such as grilled prawns, fish, beef, and an assortment of tropical sauces and vegetables. It is often served with many side dishes and a main dish, reflecting the Bruneian culture of sharing and the art of communicating through food.

The preparation of Ambuyat starts by combining tapioca, sago or potato starch with cool water. Then, hot water is slowly poured into the container with the starch. Once the mixture becomes sticky, it is whisked together until it becomes firm and starchy. To serve, Ambuyat is typically paired with a shrimp-flavoured sauce, such as tempoyak or durian sauce. Other side dishes may include cooked vegetables, whole grilled shrimp, fried fish fillets, fried belutak (mixed beef), and sweet and sour sauces.

While Ambuyat may be the national dish, there are other must-try foods in Brunei. Nasi Katok, for example, is a minimalist dish consisting of plain white rice, sambal (chilli shrimp relish) and a piece of fried chicken. This simple yet delicious meal has become a staple food loved by Bruneians and can be found for as low as B$1.

Another unique dish is Cucur, which is essentially fritters – pieces of cut-up items deep-fried and eaten as snacks. Cucur plays a significant role in the country’s street food scene and can be found everywhere from roadside food stalls to top-rated restaurants. It can be made sweet or savoury, with common ingredients being fruits and vegetables such as bananas, sweet potatoes, carrots or yams, as well as meat like shrimps.

For those with a sweet tooth, Kuih-muih, traditional snacks made from rice flour, sugar, coconut cream and tapioca, are widely available and conveniently sold in bite-size pieces. Examples of popular Kuih-muih in Brunei include selurut, penyaram, tapai and kuih cincin.

The beaches, including Pantai Seri Kenangan

Pantai Seri Kenangan, or the "Unforgettable Beach", is a popular recreational area just a five-minute drive from the city of Tutong. The beach gets its name from the effect created by a narrow strip of land separating the gentle Tutong River from the rolling waves of the South China Sea.

The casuarina-lined beach is arguably the best in Brunei, with its powdery white sand and warm water for paddling. The beach is also equipped with chalets, restaurants, cabins, a playground, and food stalls.

While the beach is a great spot for a picnic, sandflies can be a problem around sunset, so be sure to bring insect repellent.

The beach is located 2km west of Tutong town.

Frequently asked questions