The Austrian scythe is a popular choice for beginners. It has an adjustable curved wooden handle, available in a range of sizes, and is not too heavy. The blade is made from softer steel and is lighter and more ergonomic than the American scythe blade. However, it requires dressing with a scythe in the field and the additional skill of peening to sharpen the blade. In this guide, we will cover the setup, maintenance, and use of an Austrian scythe.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Blade type | Razor-sharp |
Blade material | Steel |
Blade weight | Lightweight |
Blade length | 28 inches |
Blade maintenance | Requires dressing with a scythe in the field and peening to sharpen |
Blade origin | Austrian/Bavarian |
Snath origin | European |
Snath material | Wood |
Snath type | Curved |
Snath adjustability | Adjustable |
Motion | Arc |
What You'll Learn
How to set up an Austrian scythe
Setting up an Austrian scythe correctly is essential for safety and efficiency. Here is a detailed guide on how to set up an Austrian scythe:
Firstly, the scythe should be adjusted to suit the user's physique and mowing style. The lower handle should be fixed at hip bone level. Rest your elbow on this lower handle and extend your arm up the main upright of the scythe, or the 'snath'. The top handle should align with the tips of your fingers. This ensures a comfortable grip and posture when using the scythe.
Next, fit the blade loosely and slightly tighten the D collar, which attaches the blade to the shaft. The 'hafting angle' can then be adjusted. To do this, rest the end of the snath on your knee and identify the position of the 'beard', which is the rear edge of the blade nearest the shaft. Slowly pivot the scythe away from this reference point until the tip is at least 5cm below.
After this, a wooden wedge can be fitted to adjust the blade's angle in relation to the ground when cutting. This setup may need fine-tuning if you encounter problems while mowing.
The blade of an Austrian scythe is made from softer steel and requires regular sharpening. It is recommended to sharpen the blade after approximately every 10 metres of mowing. A whetstone, used damp, is the best tool for this task. A water carrier is, therefore, essential to have with you in the field. To sharpen, support the snath on your left thigh and cradle the back edge of the blade with your left forearm. Using your left hand, feed the blade under your arm from heel to tip as you sharpen. Pass the whetstone over the blade in a scissoring action, as you would with a kitchen knife.
Finally, always use a blade cover when storing your Austrian scythe. The razor-sharp edge can easily cause injury, so it is important to handle the blade with care.
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How to sharpen an Austrian scythe blade
To sharpen an Austrian scythe blade, you need to use a whetstone. The bevel is on the uppermost side of the blade, so that the blade bites downwards into the stem of the grass. The bevel on the upper side of the blade is very slightly greater than the angle created when your curved scythe stone rubs both against the sharp edge and the back rib of the blade. This means that if the end of your stone is rattling against the rib when you sharpen, this is fine, and you have almost the right angle. The underside of the blade is basically flat, and the object is to remove the burr created when you sharpen the top side.
To sharpen, hold the scythe upside down, with the top of the snath on the ground, the beard near your left shoulder, and the blade pointing outward and away from you to the right, at an angle of about 45 degrees when viewed from above. Using the fingers of your left hand, feed the blade under your left arm from heel to tip, as you sharpen along the cutting edge. Pass the whetstone over the blade on alternating sides in a scissoring action, as you would to sharpen a kitchen knife. Strokes should be outward, with the stone moving in the direction in which the blade cuts, and should start at the handle end of the blade and progress towards the tip.
The whetstone must always be used damp, so a water carrier is an essential piece of kit. Austrian scythes should be sharpened in the field about every 5 to 10 minutes or so, with a fine stone. After an hour or two, you may feel the need to give it a sharpen with a coarse stone, followed by a finer stone.
After a day's mowing, the blade will usually need remedial treatment to restore its cutting edge and remove any nicks in the metal. This process, known as peening, involves a special anvil and hammer. Support the blade carefully and work from heel to point, beat the cutting edge against the peening anvil with the hammer to flatten and smooth it out, before sharpening with a whetstone.
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How to mow with an Austrian scythe
Mowing with an Austrian scythe requires a specific technique to be effective. The blade is razor-sharp and curved, and the tool is lighter and more ergonomic than other scythes. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to mow with an Austrian scythe:
Firstly, ensure your scythe is set up correctly for your body. The lower handle should be fixed at hip level, and when resting your elbow on this handle, the top handle should line up with your fingertips. The blade should be fitted loosely, with the D collar slightly tightened, and the hafting angle adjusted to suit your mowing style. A wooden wedge can be used to fine-tune the blade's angle in relation to the ground.
When mowing, the power for the stroke comes from your thighs and buttocks, with your arms and shoulders used mainly for guidance. Begin the stroke with only the first third of the blade engaging the grass, and gently rotate your body at the waist, keeping the blade on the ground and moving in an arc in front of your body. The motion should be fluid and graceful, with the bottom of the blade remaining on the ground at all times, barring any obstacles.
The blade should be sharpened regularly for ease of use and a neater cut. After approximately ten metres of mowing, sharpen the blade with a whetstone, using a handful of mown grass to wipe the blade first. The whetstone should be damp, so a water carrier is essential. Support the snath on your left thigh and cradle the blade with your left forearm, sharpening along the cutting edge in a scissoring action.
Always use a blade cover when storing, and consider wearing Kevlar gloves when handling the blade, as its razor-sharp edge can easily sever a tendon.
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How to adjust the hafting angle of an Austrian scythe
Adjusting the hafting angle of your Austrian scythe is a crucial step in ensuring optimal mowing performance. The hafting angle refers to the angle of the mounted blade in relation to the snath, and getting it right can make mowing significantly easier. Here's a detailed guide on how to adjust the hafting angle of your Austrian scythe:
Step 1: Understanding the Ideal Hafting Angle:
The ideal hafting angle will depend on the type of grass you're mowing. For most mowing conditions, a closed hafting angle is recommended as it makes mowing easier. In a closed hafting angle, the blade falls towards the right (for a right-handed blade) or towards the left (for a left-handed blade), with the tang resting against the ring. This angle allows for a smooth slicing motion. However, in very easily mowed grass, you may find that a slightly more open angle works better. Avoid a fully open angle, as this can make mowing difficult and tiring.
Step 2: Marking the Blade's Beard:
Place the end of the snath on one knee and identify the "beard" of the blade, which is the rear edge nearest the shaft. Mark this position as a reference point. You can use anything as a visual reference, such as a pebble, a blade of grass, or any identifiable feature that won't disappear when you look away.
Step 3: Pivoting the Snath:
With the scythe on the ground in front of you, pivot the snath clockwise and observe the position of the blade's tip as it aligns with the mark you made. The tip should be 1-3 inches lower than the beard, and the longer the blade, the more angle is required. This step helps you determine how much adjustment is needed to achieve the desired hafting angle.
Step 4: Adjusting the Blade Position:
Loosen the blade locking screws and tilt the blade to achieve the correct relationship between the tip and the beard. Re-check the alignment by pivoting the snath as described in Step 3. Ensure that the tang can pivot side to side within the ring.
Step 5: Tightening the Screws:
Once you're satisfied with the blade position, tighten the screws firmly and evenly. Be careful not to over-tighten, as this can damage the ring clamp and the snath. Hold the back of the blade and point the snath away from you while tightening to ensure your safety.
Step 6: Final Checks:
Check the hafting angle each time you stop to stone the blade, as the tang may slip inside the ring during mowing. If the angle has shifted, reset it, and carry your key with you for adjustments. Additionally, ensure that the hafting angle is less than 90 degrees when viewed from above. The distance from your left hand to the tip of the blade should be less than the distance from your left hand to the beard.
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How to maintain an Austrian scythe
Maintaining an Austrian scythe is a two-part process: peening and sharpening. Peening involves hammering out the edge of the scythe to make it thinner, while sharpening hones the blade's edge.
Peening
Peening is a process of cold hammering a blade to draw out the metal and thin the edge. This is done with a hammer and a tiny anvil, or a peening jig, which is a tool that makes the process more accessible to beginners. The jig is mounted into a pre-drilled block of wood, and the blade's edge is placed on the flat of the jig, lightly touching the post. A cap is placed over the post, and the blade is hammered uniformly to create a primary bevel. A second cap is then used for the finishing bevel.
Sharpening
Sharpening and honing blades is an art. Two stones are generally required for sharpening the blade: a coarse stone and a fine stone. The bevel is on the uppermost side of the blade, so that the blade bites downwards into the stem of the grass. The bevel on the upper side of the blade is very slightly greater than the angle created when your curved scythe stone rubs against the sharp edge and the back rib of the blade. The underside of the blade is basically flat, and the object is to remove the burr created when sharpening the top side. Strokes should be outward, with the stone moving in the direction in which the blade cuts, starting at the handle end of the blade and progressing towards the tip. The most normal stance for sharpening is to hold the scythe upside down, with the top of the snath on the ground and the blade pointing outward and away from you towards the right, at an angle of about 45 degrees when viewed from above.
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Frequently asked questions
The Austrian scythe is a razor-sharp blade attached to a long stick, so it is important to be careful when using it. It is recommended that you wear Kevlar gloves if you are nervous about handling the blade. Additionally, always use a blade cover when storing scythe blades, as the sharp edge can sever a tendon.
Each scythe should be set up to suit the physique and mowing style of its owner. First, fix the lower handle to sit level with your hip bone. Then, rest your elbow on the lower handle and extend your arm up the snath (the main upright of the scythe). The top handle should line up with the tips of your fingers.
The blade must be sharpened after approximately every ten metres of mowing. A sharp blade is easier to work with and produces a neater cut. You can use a whetstone to sharpen the blade. The whetstone must always be used damp, so be sure to have a water carrier with you.
The motion of mowing with a scythe involves rotating at the waist while moving the blade in an arc in front of your body. The power for the motion should come from your thighs and buttocks, with your arms and shoulders used mainly for guiding the blade.
The Austrian scythe is generally regarded as the best choice for beginners. It has an adjustable curved wooden snath and is not too heavy. It can be fitted with a variety of blades, depending on the job. The American scythe, on the other hand, has forward-facing grips and is extra curved so that the lower grip can be attached directly to the snath. It is made of hardened steel and does not need to be dressed in the field.