Lexi Webster
Making camembert cheese at home can be a tricky process, but the results are rewarding. The cheese-making process involves preparing the curd, filling and turning the hoops, salting the cheese, and ageing it to develop flavour and texture. The curds are scooped into hoops, turned repeatedly, and salted before being wrapped in cheese film to slow mould growth. The perfect camembert is soft and creamy, with a slight bulge when cut, and can be baked with garlic and herbs for a delicious treat.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Milk | Regular full-cream milk |
| Milk Volume | 4 litres |
| Cheese Volume | 4 small cheeses |
| Culture | Geotrichium Candidum, Pen. Cand. |
| Additive | Mesophilic starter |
| Calcium Chloride | 1/4 teaspoon dissolved in 1/4 cup of cool unchlorinated water (if using homogenized milk) |
| Equipment | Sterilised with 3 litres of boiling water for 15 minutes |
| Curd Preparation | After the final rest, scoop out 40%–60% of the whey and discard; stir the remaining curds to prevent setting |
| Filling Hoops | Place a bamboo draining mat on a cutting board, cover with greaseproof paper, and place the hoops on top; fill with curds using a slotted spoon |
| Turning Hoops | Place another sheet of greaseproof paper, a second bamboo draining mat, and a second cutting board on top of the hoops; turn over and turn the hoops every hour for 5 hours |
| Salting | Lightly sprinkle salt on the top of the cheese and let stand for 15–30 minutes; turn over, sprinkle salt on the bottom and sides, and let stand for another 15–30 minutes |
| Aging | Wrap the cheese in cheese film when a consistent white mould has formed; age for 3–4 weeks at a temperature below 7°C |
| Serving | Bake in the oven for 15 minutes; make small incisions in the cheese and fill with garlic and herbs |
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What You'll Learn
Preparing the curd
After the final rest, you will notice that the curds will sink to the bottom of the whey. Use a glass or ladle to carefully remove and discard 40%–60% of the whey. Once the whey is removed, gently stir the curds to prevent them from setting. This step ensures that the curds can be easily scooped into the hoops.
To fill the hoops, you'll need a bamboo draining mat, a cutting board, greaseproof paper, and a slotted spoon. Place the draining mat on the cutting board, cover it with greaseproof paper, and then place the hoops on top. It's best to do this step in your kitchen sink, with one end of the board slightly elevated to allow the whey to drain away. Use your slotted spoon to scoop the curds into the hoops, filling them evenly just short of the top. Turning the hoops repeatedly will help settle the curds to the desired thickness.
For the first turn, add another sheet of greaseproof paper on top of the hoops, followed by a second bamboo draining mat and a second cutting board. Hold both boards firmly and flip the hoops over together. From this point onwards, greaseproof paper is no longer needed. Turn the hoops hourly for the next five hours, performing a minimum of three turns before letting them set overnight, covered with a tea towel.
On day two, the young cheese will have firmed and pulled away from the edges of the hoops. Remove the cheese from the hoops and sprinkle cheese salt lightly over the top. Let it stand for 15–30 minutes. Then, turn the cheese over, sprinkle more salt on the bottom and sides, and let it stand for another 15–30 minutes.
Remember, Camembert cheese-making is a delicate process, and even experienced cheese makers may find it challenging. Don't be discouraged if you don't get it right on your first try!
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Filling the hoops
Prepare your moulds or "hoops" by sanitising them with hot water. You can use traditional Camembert moulds, or you can opt for alternative options such as small cake tins or even bamboo steamer baskets lined with cheesecloth. Ensure your equipment is sterilised to prevent unwanted bacteria from affecting your cheese.
Have your milk ready. For Camembert, you'll need full-cream cow's milk, preferably unhomogenised and still containing cream. The milk should be at a temperature of around 38 degrees Celsius. This temperature is crucial as it encourages the growth of the right bacteria and the production of the rennet enzyme, which sets the curd.
Add your bacterial culture, also known as a "starter culture," to the milk. For Camembert, a mesophilic culture is typically used. Follow the instructions on the specific culture you're using for accurate measurements and activation methods. The culture will begin the process of acidification, which is essential for cheese flavour and texture development.
Once the culture is added, let the milk sit undisturbed for about 45 minutes to an hour. This period allows the culture to begin working and start the process of turning milk into cheese. The milk should be kept at a consistent temperature throughout this time.
After the resting period, add liquid rennet. Stir the milk gently with an up-and-down motion to ensure even distribution of the rennet, being careful not to create air bubbles. Cover the milk and let it sit for about 12 to 18 hours at a cooler temperature of around 10 to 12 degrees Celsius. This stage is when the curd sets and develops the required firmness.
Cut the curd and gently ladle it into your prepared hoops or moulds. The curd should be firm but still slightly flexible. Cut the curd into even squares with a long knife, releasing some of the whey and encouraging the curds to knit together. Then, carefully fill your hoops, taking care not to break up the curds.
Finally, allow the curds to drain and firm up in the hoops. This process may take several hours. Once the curds have set and formed a smooth, cohesive mass, you can remove the hoops and proceed to the next steps of Camembert cheese-making, including salting, ripening, and affinage.
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Turning the hoops
Place the camembert cheese on a suitable surface, such as a clean bench or table. The cheese should be at room temperature, ideally between 20-25°C, to ensure optimal pliability. Have ready a set of sterilised hoops, which will act as moulds for the cheese. These hoops should be slightly larger than the cheese itself to allow for expansion during pressing.
Gently place the cheese inside the hoop, centring it as much as possible. Take care not to disturb the curds or cause any breakage. Once centred, carefully close the hoop, ensuring that the cheese is secure and snug within it. At this stage, it is crucial to maintain the integrity of the curds and avoid any unwanted cracks or creases in the cheese's surface.
Now, it's time for turning. Grasp the hoop firmly with both hands and carefully rotate it 180 degrees. This step ensures even drainage of whey and encourages the formation of a uniform rind. Perform this turning process every 30 minutes for the first two hours. During this time, the cheese begins to take on its characteristic shape, and the rind starts to develop.
For the next six hours, continue turning the hoop at one-hour intervals. This extended interval allows the cheese to settle and promotes the gradual formation of a robust rind. The turning process not only aids in drainage but also prevents the cheese from sticking to the hoop, ensuring a smooth and consistent final product.
After the initial eight hours, the cheese will have settled significantly, and the rind will be well on its way to formation. From this point onwards, turn the hoop twice a day for the next two days. This reduced frequency allows the cheese to mature and develop its flavour and texture.
By diligently following this turning process, you will ensure that your camembert cheese develops the desired shape, texture, and flavour. The formation of a strong rind is crucial to the success of your camembert, and turning the hoops at the correct intervals plays a pivotal role in achieving this outcome.
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Salting the cheese
Remove the cheese from the hoops and sprinkle cheese salt lightly over the top. Let the cheese stand for 15 to 30 minutes. Then, turn the cheese over and lightly sprinkle the bottom and sides with more cheese salt. Let the cheese stand for another 15 to 30 minutes.
The salt is the only preservative used in the Camembert-making process. After salting, the cheese is turned daily to distribute the moisture. After 7 to 10 days, when a delicate covering of mould has developed, the cheese is wrapped.
It is important to note that the cheese should be wrapped in cheese film or paper to slow the mould so that it doesn't ripen too quickly. If the cheese is matured above 7°C, the flavour will be overpowering.
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Aging the cheese
On day two, place the cheese in brine for two hours. The only preservative used is salt. Turn the cheese daily to distribute the moisture. After around 7-10 days, when a delicate covering of mould develops, wrap the cheese. If aging in a normal kitchen refrigerator, the cheese will take longer to form mould and age. Check regularly until an even mould covers the surface. Then, use cheese wrap to slow the mould so that it doesn't ripen too quickly. It may take up to 4 weeks to fully mature, but check at the 3-week mark. If the cheese is matured above 7°C, the flavour will be overpowering.
You may want to experiment with aging times and temperatures to achieve the texture and flavours you prefer.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need 4 litres of milk, ¼ teaspoon Calcium Chloride (if using homogenized milk), dissolved in ¼ cup (60 ml) cool unchlorinated water, and cheese salt.
You will need cheese hoops, a bamboo draining mat, greaseproof paper, a slotted spoon, a glass or ladle, and a large pot.
First, sterilise all equipment in a large pot with about 3 litres of boiling water for 15 minutes, except the cheese hoops. Place the curd into the hoops and flip three times to drain the whey. Sprinkle cheese salt lightly over the top of the cheese and let stand for 15 – 30 minutes. Turn the cheese over and lightly sprinkle the bottom and sides with more cheese salt and let stand another 15 – 30 minutes. Wrap the cheese in cheese film when a consistent white mould has formed all over the cheese.
The perfect camembert is soft and creamy and bulges slightly when it is cut. You may want to experiment with aging times and temperatures to achieve the texture and flavours you prefer.
