Leslie Massey
Wicking beds are a sustainable and effective way to grow vegetables, herbs, and flowers, especially in hot or dry conditions. They are self-contained garden beds with a reservoir at the bottom, from which water is drawn up by capillary action, reducing evaporation and the need for regular watering. Wicking beds can be constructed from recycled materials such as wooden crates, bathtubs, or intermediate bulk containers (IBCs), or purpose-built kits can be purchased. The process involves creating a waterproof reservoir, installing an inlet and overflow pipe, adding gravel, and then filling with soil and plants.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Container | Any container can be used, including old bathtubs, wooden vegetable crates, or IBCs. |
| Base | The base should be level and free of sharp objects. A layer of carpet or sand can be added for protection. |
| Liner | A pond liner or heavy-duty plastic sheet is used to create a waterproof reservoir. Geotextile fabric or shade cloth can also be used. |
| Inlet Pipe | A PVC or poly pipe is installed to fill the reservoir with water. |
| Overflow Outlet | A hole is drilled and a pipe is fitted to allow excess water to escape, preventing waterlogging. |
| Gravel | Gravel or scoria is used to fill the bottom of the reservoir, providing even water distribution. |
| Soil | A porous loamy soil is best, with a mix rich in organic matter. |
| Plants | Vegetables, herbs, and flowers can be grown in a wicking bed. |
| Sunlight | The wicking bed should receive 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. |
| Water Efficiency | Wicking beds use up to 50% less water and reduce evaporation. |
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What You'll Learn
Choose a container
Wicking beds can be created in a variety of containers, from old bathtubs to wooden crates, or even purpose-built timber beds. The key is to ensure the container is at least 50cm high, with a solid frame and base. Recycled intermediate bulk containers (IBCs) are a popular choice, as they are often readily available and can be cut in half to create two wicking beds.
When choosing a container, it is important to consider the size and location of your wicking bed. If you are converting an existing raised garden bed, you will need to ensure it is placed on a level site with a stable, even surface. If you are starting from scratch, you can build a frame to the desired size and ensure it is level before adding your chosen container.
It is also important to consider the materials you will need to line your container. A pond liner or heavy-duty plastic sheet is commonly used to create a waterproof reservoir at the base of the bed. Old carpet can be used to line the bottom of the container, providing a layer of protection for the liner. Geotextile fabric or shade cloth is then placed above the reservoir to prevent soil from mixing with the gravel or scoria that fills the bottom of the bed.
If you are purchasing a wicking bed kit, the necessary materials may be included, along with detailed instructions on how to assemble your container and create the wicking bed. These kits can be a convenient option, especially if you are new to building wicking beds.
Overall, the choice of container for your wicking bed will depend on your individual needs, budget, and the materials you have readily available.
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Prepare the base
To prepare the base of a wicking bed, you'll need to start by choosing a suitable location. Wicking beds require full sun, so make sure the bed will receive ample sunlight throughout the day. It's also important to ensure that the surface is level. If the ground is uneven, you can dig or add soil to create a flat base for your wicking bed.
Once you've found the perfect spot, it's time to start assembling the base. The first layer of your wicking bed base serves as a protective barrier and can be made from a variety of materials. Old carpet, builder's plastic, or a heavy-duty plastic sheet can be used to line the bottom and sides of the bed. This layer helps to prevent any sharp objects, such as protruding nails or screws, from puncturing the liner.
The next step is to install the liner, which creates a waterproof reservoir for water storage. Pond liner or a non-porous material like heavy-duty plastic should be used to line the base and sides of the garden bed to the desired height of the reservoir. Make sure there are no sharp objects underneath the liner, and consider doubling up the liner or adding a cushioning layer of sand for extra protection.
Now it's time to create an overflow mechanism to prevent waterlogging. Drill a hole at the top of the drainage layer and screw in a drainage or overflow pipe. This allows excess water to escape, ensuring your plants don't suffer from oversaturation.
With the overflow in place, you can add the final touches to the base. Cover the drainage layer with a layer of geo-fabric or geotextile fabric. This fabric acts as a barrier, preventing soil from mixing with the gravel while still allowing water to move upwards into the soil.
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Install the liner
When installing the liner, it is important to ensure that the base of the garden bed is clear of anything sharp, such as screws or glass. If you are using a wooden container, check for protruding nails and hammer them down. You can also cover the base with a cushioning layer of brickie's sand, carpet, or gravel for protection.
Next, lay the liner. Pond liner, heavy-duty plastic sheeting, or food-grade plastic can be used. Ensure the liner covers the entire base and sides, with a bit of an overhang that you will use to secure it later. If your plastic is thin, consider doubling it over or adding an extra layer of carpet underneath for protection.
Once the liner is in place, you can add an overflow outlet to prevent your wicking bed from becoming waterlogged. Drill a hole at the top of the liner and screw in a drainage pipe. This will allow excess water to flow out, keeping your plants healthy and preventing oversaturation.
Now, you can install the inlet pipe. Cut a hole on one of the short sides of the garden bed, slightly larger than the agricultural pipe you are using. Install the shorter piece of the pipe so that it pokes out of the hole, then seal it on both sides to ensure watertightness. Attach the elbow and the poly pipe, ensuring the top of the pipe is level with the top of the stones or gravel in your bed.
Finally, test your system by pouring water into the inlet pipe and observing if there are any leaks.
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Add the reservoir
The reservoir is an essential component of a wicking bed, and it is important to get this right to ensure the wicking process works effectively. First, you need to create an inlet pipe for adding water to the reservoir. Cut a hole on one of the shorter sides of the garden bed, slightly larger than the agricultural or PVC pipe you are using. Insert the pipe and seal it on both sides to ensure watertightness. Attach an elbow joint and an upright pipe, which will be used to pour water into the bed. Cap one end of the inlet pipe to ensure even water distribution.
Next, prepare the base of the reservoir by laying a layer of gravel or scoria. This will ensure even water distribution and prevent waterlogging. Cover the pipe with the gravel, filling up to about 300mm below the top edge of the bed. It is important to compact the gravel and level it out. You can then add water to the reservoir, filling it up to almost the gravel level.
To prevent oversaturation and waterlogging, an overflow outlet is necessary. Drill a hole at the top of the gravel layer and screw in a drainage pipe. This will allow excess water to escape, keeping your plants healthy. You can also create an overflow by designing your liner so that excess water simply spills over the side.
Finally, cover the gravel with a layer of geo-fabric or geotextile fabric. This acts as a barrier, preventing soil from mixing with the gravel while still allowing water to move up into the soil. If you don't have access to geotextile fabric, you can use a piece of doubled-over shade cloth or old carpet.
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Plant your plants
Now it's time to plant your plants! You can choose from a wide variety of plants to grow in your wicking bed, including vegetables, herbs, and flowers. If you're planting vegetables, consider choosing crops that are typically heavy feeders and need a lot of water, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, and eggplant. These plants will benefit from the consistent moisture provided by the wicking bed.
When planning your garden bed layout, consider the mature size of the plants you choose. Space them according to the instructions on their labels, allowing enough room for air circulation and growth. Companion planting can also be practised to improve pest control and optimise space. For example, try planting basil with your tomatoes to help deter pests and improve growth.
It's important to note that you should not plant seedlings too deep in a wicking bed. The soil level in the garden bed should be the same depth as in the seedling punnet. Any deeper and the stem of the seedling may rot. To plant, simply dig a hole that is the same depth as the root ball of your seedling. Place the seedling in the hole and fill in around the roots with the soil or potting mix from your garden bed. Gently firm the soil around the seedling and water it well to settle the soil and remove any air pockets.
For direct sowing of seeds, follow the instructions on the seed packet for the correct depth and spacing. Some seeds, like beans and peas, can be planted directly into the coir or jute mat. Simply poke holes through the mat and push the seeds through, being careful not to damage the roots of any nearby seedlings. Smaller seeds should be sown into the soil or potting mix as per the seed packet instructions.
Once your plants are in the ground, water them well to help them establish. You can also add a layer of mulch on top of the soil or potting mix to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Keep an eye on your plants and water them as needed, checking the reservoir regularly to ensure it doesn't completely dry out. Enjoy your thriving wicking bed garden!
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Frequently asked questions
A wicking bed is a self-contained garden bed with a reservoir of water and gravel at the bottom. Water is drawn up by capillary action, which allows for more even moisture distribution through the soil.
Wicking beds are a sustainable and effective way to grow your favourite plants while reducing water use. They are especially useful in hot or dry conditions.
You can build a wicking bed out of any container, but it should be a minimum of 50cm high with a solid frame and base. You will also need a pond liner or heavy-duty plastic sheet, gravel, and an inlet pipe.
You can source materials from your local hardware store, or you can purchase a wicking bed conversion kit online, which includes all the necessary components.
First, ensure your wicking bed is level and in a location that gets 6-8 hours of sunlight each day. Then, install the liner, create an overflow, and install the inlet pipe. Next, add the gravel and fill the reservoir with water. Finally, add the geotextile fabric, soil, and plants.
