Leslie Massey
The Australian bush hat, also known as the outback hat, has been a staple in Australian culture since the 1800s. Originally designed as protective headwear for workers facing harsh conditions, it has evolved into a versatile fashion accessory. Characterized by a wide brim and a low-key crown, the Aussie bush hat is known for its functionality and style. Whether you're crafting your own hat or customizing a store-bought one, there are numerous ways to make your hat embody the rugged spirit of the Australian outback. From shaping the crown and brim to dyeing and stitching, the possibilities are endless for creating your ideal bush hat.
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What You'll Learn
Shape the brim
The Australian bush hat, also known as the slouch hat, is characterised by its wide, floppy brim. The brim is typically turned up or pinned to the side, which is said to have originated as a practical measure to allow soldiers to carry long muskets without hitting their hats. This style of hat first became popular in the Australian military in 1885 and has since become an important national symbol.
When making your own Australian bush hat, the first step is to cut out the brim. The brim should be slightly longer than it is wide to accommodate the shape of the human head. You can adjust the angle of the brim to your liking, making it straighter or giving it a more pronounced angle.
Once you have cut out the brim, you will need to stitch a wire into it to give it structure. If using a stiff wire, the join can be at the centre back of the hat. If using a flexible wire, the join should be at a rear corner, otherwise the hat won't dip or swoop correctly. Mark a line 2mm from the edge of the brim all the way around, then wrap the edge of the brim around the wire. Push a needle up through the bottom of the brim to the upper surface, then measure the distance of the second stitch and mark it all around the brim. Keep the needle straight and start sewing, then come back the other way to complete the saddle stitch.
Finally, you can shape the brim to your liking. You might like one side to be more curved than the other, or a dip in the front of the brim for a mysterious look.
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Stitching techniques
When it comes to stitching your Australian bush hat, there are several techniques to consider. Firstly, it is important to ensure that your stitching is tight enough and that the stitch holes are not too far apart, as this can be a weak point in the hat, allowing water to seep in.
If you are stitching in a brim wire, mark a line 2mm from the top outer edge of the brim all the way around. Wrap the brim around the wire and push a needle up through to the upper surface. This will give you the distance for the second stitch line, which you can mark all around the upper surface. The stitch holes should be approximately 3mm apart. Keep the needle straight and sew in one direction, then return in the opposite direction using the same stitch holes to create a saddle stitch.
When sewing on the crown, you can use a single or double line of stitching. Mark an outer line 8mm from the inner edge of the brim all the way around, and a second inner line 3mm from the head hole edge. On the crown piece, draw a line 2mm from the lower edge on the upper surface, and a line 7-8mm from the top edge on the reverse side for the stitch line.
For the sweatband, you can stitch it at the same time as sewing on the crown, or you can sew it in after assembling the hat using the same stitch holes around the inner brim.
You can also add a reinforcement band by punching a series of holes around the outer edge of the brim and stitching through them. Alternatively, you can simply stitch smoothly around the outside edge of the brim for a nicer look.
Remember to always work with the suede side out when stitching the crown and the brim, and only stitch one half at a time to prevent torquing and maintain symmetry.
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Choosing the right leather
When choosing the right leather for your Australian bush hat, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, it is important to select a leather type that is durable and resistant to wear and tear. Full-grain leather is widely considered the highest quality leather available for hats, offering superior durability, breathability, and a beautiful patina over time. If you prioritise durability above all else, full-grain leather is the ideal choice.
However, other factors such as climate, lifestyle, and personal style also play a role in choosing the right leather. If you live in a warmer climate or plan to engage in physically demanding activities while wearing the hat, you may want to opt for a lighter-weight leather option. Leather hats with reinforced stitching can also provide added durability for challenging environments. Additionally, consider whether you need your hat to be water-resistant. Treating leather with a leather dressing can help with this, enhancing the material's appearance and providing protection against stains.
The versatility of leather hats extends beyond their functionality, as they can complement a range of styles and occasions. The classic Australian outback hat, with its mid-sized brim and understated crown, flatters most face shapes and body types. When it comes to personal style, you can shape the crown or brim of your leather bush hat to suit your preference. Whether you prefer a curved brim, a dip in the front, or a distinctive swoop, moulding the hat to your liking adds a unique touch.
While leather is a popular choice for bush hats, it is worth noting that historically, Australian bush hats were first crafted from wool felt. Felt hats offer a timeless, authoritative look and are particularly favoured in colder regions or during winter months. However, they tend to be heavier and may not be as comfortable in warm weather. Ultimately, the choice between leather and felt depends on your personal preferences, the climate you reside in, and the specific use cases you have in mind for your Australian bush hat.
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Dying the hat
The classic Australian outback hat has been a staple in the country's culture since the 1800s. Originally designed as work hats for cattle and farm workers, these hats are known for their sun protection and ability to keep rain and snow off faces.
If you're using a higher weight leather, you will need to skive the edges where the leather joins together. However, you can leave the brim as is. Thinning your 2-3oz leather will also help with the forming process. Just remember to only skive the suede side of the leather.
Before dying your hat, give it a light spray of distilled water. Then, apply dye with balls of raw wool or the smaller wool on a stick that comes with the Fiebings bottles for smaller jobs.
It is important to note that you should not dye the inside of the hat, as it will leach to your skin.
If you want to give your hat a worn look, let it dry completely and then spray the bottom half where the sides meet the brim more heavily. The spots that are wet will take less of the dye and look faded compared to the rest of the hat. Next, take a slightly damp, soft cloth and start rubbing down the entire brim to lighten it overall, making the shade difference more noticeable.
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The history of the Australian bush hat
The Australian bush hat, also known as the slouch hat, is a national symbol of Australia. It is also sometimes called the "digger hat". The hat is characterised by a wide brim that is turned up or pinned to one side, often with a Rising Sun Badge. This distinctive style has its origins in the Victorian era, when the Victorian Mounted Rifles began wearing a bush felt hat with the brim turned up on the right side to prevent it from getting caught during the "shoulder arms" drill movement. By 1890, it was standardised across all Australian forces (except the artillery corps), with the hat turned up on the right side in Victoria and Tasmania, and on the left side in other states to accommodate different drill movements.
The slouch hat became famous during World War One as it was worn by Australian soldiers and continued to be worn throughout World War Two. Its use in these conflicts cemented its status as a national symbol. The hat was also worn by troops from other countries, including the United States during the Vietnam War, where it was preferred for its sun protection compared to the standard-issue baseball cap. The slouch hat was also worn by the Gurkha regiments of the British Indian Army and was later adopted by the Indian Army. In addition, it was used by colonial units of the British Empire, including the Royal West African Frontier Force and the Canadian Yukon Field Force.
The Australian slouch hat has been manufactured in Australia for the Australian Army by companies such as Akubra, Mountcastle & Sons, and Bardsley Hats since World War One. Akubra, founded in Tasmania in 1876, has become synonymous with Australian culture and is known for its handcrafted, durable hats. The company's hats are often associated with the rugged spirit of the Outback and are popular among outdoor explorers and those seeking Aussie style.
The slouch hat also holds cultural significance in New Zealand, where it is associated with stereotypes such as the Bushman and Southern man. The New Zealand Mounted Rifles wore a similar headdress with the New Zealand military badge attached to the front. The hat was also worn by non-uniformed and uniformed regiments in the Alberta Field Force during the North-West Rebellion of 1885.
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Frequently asked questions
You can make an Australian bush hat with leather, wool felt, or cloth.
An Australian bush hat has four components: the brim, two side bands, and the crown.
You can shape the crown or brim of your Australian bush hat by gently curving it with your hands. You can also dip the front of the brim to add some mystery.
