Damon Mcknight
Bats are fascinating creatures, and they make excellent pest controllers, too. If you want to encourage bats into your garden, you might consider building a bat box. This involves creating a shelter that mimics the space between bark and a tree trunk, providing an inside space that is very narrow, as bats like tight spaces. You'll need to cut and nail timber to size, creating gaps and crevices for the bats to climb through. The box should be installed in an elevated spot, with a clear flight path and a landing pad, and positioned away from vegetation and potential predators. It's also important to treat the exterior with a weatherproofing sealant and ensure there is adequate ventilation. Once installed, it's a waiting game, as bats may take a couple of years to move in.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To encourage bats into the garden to help control insect pests |
| Installation | Fix as high as possible in a sheltered, wind-free position, exposed to the sun for part of the day |
| Placement | Avoid placements that provide easy access for predators like cats, snakes, owls, raccoons, rats or other ground predators |
| Vegetation | Choose a spot that is free of vegetation immediately below or in front of the box and that will not become overgrown |
| Water | Provide a water source, ensuring a clear path to it by clearing away vegetation and other clutter |
| Design | Multi-chambered, taller than it is wide, with venting to create cool areas or escape zones |
| Materials | Weatherproof plywood, at least 1/2" thick, with weatherproof screws and caulk on seams |
| Interior | Roughen the plywood by cutting grooves into the wood, creating places for the bats to crawl up into the house |
| Colour | Dark colour to absorb heat, using water-based paint or stain |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right design
When building a bat box, it is important to choose the right design. The internet is full of highly variable bat house designs, but not all of them are appropriate or effective. Here are some key considerations to keep in mind when selecting a design:
Firstly, avoid single-chamber boxes, especially those that resemble a typical birdhouse. These can heat up quickly and cool down rapidly, which is not ideal for bats. Instead, opt for a multi-chamber design that is taller than it is wide. This will provide a range of microclimates and sufficient height to produce a gradient of internal temperatures.
Secondly, spacing is crucial. The crevices within the bat box should be appropriately spaced for the species you are trying to attract. For example, little brown and Yuma myotis bats require a width of approximately 3/4", while a big brown bat needs 1" to 1.5". Varying chamber widths can increase the number of species that can use the box.
The exterior of the box should be treated with a weatherproofing sealant. Use at least three coats of flat, exterior-grade, water-based paint or stain. The plywood should be at least 1/2" thick for durability. Include a "'landing pad' with a rough surface below the chambers, allowing bats to climb upwards into the box.
In addition, consider the placement of the bat box. It should be elevated so that bats can take flight easily by dropping out of the box. The exit should be 10 to 16 feet off the ground. Choose a spot that is free of vegetation immediately below or in front of the box and that will not become overgrown. Avoid placements that provide easy access to predators and areas with high human traffic or artificial lighting.
Lastly, the colour of the bat box is important. While the shade depends on your area's climate, as different colours absorb varying amounts of heat, generally, darker colours are preferable. Any exterior-grade, water-based paint is suitable, but avoid oil-based paints. For the inside, use two coats of water-based stain or paint, ensuring it does not fill in the grooves.
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Preparing the materials
The plywood will form the backing board and the sides of the box, so it needs to be cut to size. This can be done using a circular saw to cut the plywood to the desired dimensions. The cut plywood will form the backboard and the sides of the box. The next step is to mount the timber spacers onto the backboard. This provides a structure for the bats to climb and creates the internal space of the box. The spacers should be attached securely with screws, making sure there are no nails or screws sticking into the inside of the box.
The next step is to prepare the plastic mesh, which will help the bats climb into the box. The mesh should be stapled to the plywood, hanging down to the "landing pad" area. This is where the bats will enter the box, so it is important to create a rough surface for them to grip onto. This can be done by cutting grooves into the wood using a circular saw.
Once the structure is complete, it is important to treat the exterior with a weatherproofing sealant. This can be done by painting the exterior with at least three coats of flat, exterior-grade, water-based paint or stain. The paint colour is not as important as the shade, which should be determined by the average high temperatures in July. A darker shade will absorb more heat, while a lighter shade will reflect it.
Finally, it is important to include ventilation in the design to create cool areas and escape routes for the bats. This can be done by drilling holes in the plywood before attaching the screws, as well as creating a ventilation slot of about half an inch.
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Construction
The first step is to cut your timber to the required dimensions. The next step is to mount two timber spacers on the back of the backing board. Then, nail together the boards using risers to create gaps in between.
After this, attach the side pieces with a power drill. Pre-drill the holes with a drill bit that is smaller than the size of your screw to avoid splitting the wood. Next, attach the top two pieces of plywood. First, apply caulk to ensure a snug fit, then drill and attach the larger of the two top pieces. Before attaching the smaller of the two pieces, measure to ensure your ventilation slot is about half an inch.
Now, cut grooves into the plywood to roughen it up and provide places for the bats to crawl up into the house. You can use a circular saw for this. If you're using plastic mesh to help the bats climb inside, staple it on now, ensuring it hangs down to the "landing pad" area.
Finally, attach brackets to enable you to fix the box to the wall. Choose an elevated spot, free of vegetation, that is not easily accessible to predators. The exit should be 10 to 16 feet off the ground.
Once installed, do not disturb the bat box so you don't scare away any potential visitors. It may take a couple of years for bats to move in, so patience is key.
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Installation
Once you have built your bat box, it's time to install it. Here are some tips to help you through the installation process:
- Choose an installation spot that is elevated, allowing bats to take flight easily by dropping out of the box. The exit should be 10 to 16 feet off the ground.
- Select an area that is free of vegetation immediately below or in front of the box, ensuring it will not become overgrown.
- Avoid placing the bat box in areas that provide easy access to predators such as domestic cats, snakes, owls, raccoons, or other ground predators.
- Stay clear of locations near toxic drinking water sources or contaminated food supplies.
- Do not install the bat box in areas with high levels of human traffic, consistent shade, wind, or artificial lighting.
- Consider installing the box near other habitats that bats may use for foraging, such as forest edges, wetlands, or forested paths.
- After installation, exercise patience and avoid disturbing the bat box to prevent scaring away potential bat visitors. Bats may take some time to discover and utilise the box.
- If you wish to provide a water source for the bats, ensure that it is easily accessible and that the area around it is clear of clutter and vegetation.
- Bat boxes should be fixed as high as possible in a sheltered, wind-free position, exposed to the sun for part of the day.
- Remember to treat the exterior of the bat box with a weatherproofing sealant and use weatherproof wood screws to secure the box in place.
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Maintenance
Bat boxes require very little maintenance. Many bat boxes have an opening at the bottom, so droppings will simply fall out and no additional maintenance is required. If your bat box does not have an opening at the bottom, cleaning may be required. However, it is essential to ensure that the box is not occupied before carrying out any maintenance. Bats are potential vectors for a number of serious diseases. Once bats have inhabited a roost site, they may only be disturbed by licensed bat workers.
The best way to check for occupancy is to observe the box at dusk (15 minutes after sunset for around 30 minutes) to watch for any bats leaving. You can also look under and nearby the box for guano (bat droppings). If there are bats present, wait until later in the season and then check again. It is also a good opportunity to use a bat detector to identify the bats in your box. The best time to clean the majority of bat boxes (those suitable for summer roosts) is during autumn or winter.
Whilst cleaning the bat box, it is a good idea to look for any damage, as this may mean it is unlikely to be used. The most likely damage will be broken seams around the roof, as the constant heating and cooling during the day can warp the wood slightly. To repair this, use a roof sealant.
It is also important to ensure that there are no nails or screws sticking into the inside of the house. Keep in mind that installing a bat house does not guarantee that bats will roost. Seasonal migration, geographic location, local availability of other roosts, specific roosting behaviours, and the presence of predators in the area all influence the use of bat houses. Bats can take a couple of years to move into a new bat house, so patience is key.
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Frequently asked questions
Building a bat box can help provide cover for bats, especially in areas where natural roost habitats are limited.
Choose an elevated spot, free of vegetation and potential predators, that is not consistently cold, shady or windy, and is near other habitats that bats can forage in.
The design should include venting to create cool areas and escape zones, and it should be tall enough to provide a range of microclimates. The crevices should be spaced appropriately for the species you think will use the box.
Use exterior-grade plywood that is at least 1/2" thick and weatherproof wood screws. Avoid nails, as these may pop as the wood warps, creating unwanted gaps.
The colour is less important than the shade, which should be determined by the average high temperatures in your area. Dark colours absorb more heat.
