Damon Mcknight
Growing roses from cuttings is a simple process that can be done at home. Despite their reputation for being finicky, most roses are easy to propagate. Propagate means to reproduce a plant from a cutting. Unlike seeds, which produce different plants, rooted cuttings produce replicas of their parent. There are three main types of stem cuttings used to propagate roses: softwood cuttings, semi-hardwood cuttings, and hardwood cuttings. Each type of cutting is taken at a different time of year and has varying levels of difficulty when it comes to rooting.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Timing | Softwood cuttings: late spring and early summer; Semi-hardwood cuttings: late summer and early fall; Hardwood cuttings: late fall or early winter |
| Temperature | Ideal temperature for cuttings: between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit |
| Time of Day | Take cuttings in the morning when plants are well-hydrated |
| Type of Cutting | Softwood, semi-hardwood, and hardwood |
| Rooting Hormone | Treat cuttings with rooting hormone to stimulate root development |
| Soil Mix | Equal parts coarse sand and perlite or vermiculite |
| Cutting Technique | Cut stem at a 45-degree angle above the first set of leaves; "Wounding the stem" by slicing, smashing, or cutting the bottom of the stem to increase surface area for root growth |
| Container | Use a tray or container at least 6 inches deep; For small miniatures, use a 4-inch plastic pot with 9 cuttings spaced 1 inch apart |
| Watering | Water the soil mix thoroughly; no need to add more water unless the potting mix is drying out |
| Rooting Time | Rooting can occur within a couple of weeks but may take up to a month or two |
| Acclimation | When roots and new leaf growth appear, acclimate the new roses outside of the humidity cover |
| Repotting | Carefully repot individual cuttings into separate containers if multiple cuttings were rooted in a single pot |
| Fertilizer | Use a mix of perlite and potting soil with slow-release fertilizer to fuel new growth |
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What You'll Learn
Softwood cuttings
To take softwood cuttings, choose a stem or stems between a withered bloom and the rose's woody base. Remove the bloom and stem tip, and cut at a 45-degree angle above the first set of leaves at the top and again above the last set of leaves at the stem's bottom. Aim for cuttings that are 4-8 inches long with three to five nodes (the regular intervals where buds, leaves, and stems emerge).
Once you have your cuttings, you can improve your success rate by treating them with rooting hormone to stimulate root development and encourage growth. There are different types of rooting hormones and methods, so it's worth experimenting to see what works best for you. Some people wound the stem by smashing the end with a hammer or making a thin cut with a knife to increase the surface area for new roots to grow.
After treating your cuttings, you can start them in a tray or container with a simple "soil" mix of equal parts coarse sand and perlite or vermiculite. Plant at least 6 inches deep and water the mix thoroughly. Keep the cuttings under a clear cover to hold humidity, and only add more water if the potting mix seems to be completely drying out. Rooting can take a couple of weeks to a month or two, and once you see roots and new leaf growth, you can begin to acclimate the new roses outside of the humidity cover.
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Semi-hardwood cuttings
To test if a stem is suitable for a semi-hardwood cutting, break a thorn off from the stem. If it is green, it is too soft and likely to rot. If there is a brown patch underneath, it is suitable for a cutting. Once you've identified a suitable stem, remove the leaves. Re-cut the bottom of the stem, just below a node, and cut the top at an angle so you can tell which end is up when planting.
To plant the cuttings, insert them into a trench filled with grit or a large pot of gritty compost. Dip the base of the cutting into a rooting hormone mixture. Water the cuttings well and place the pot in a shaded spot. Keep the compost moist. Pot up rose plants individually when well-rooted, probably next summer. If growing the cuttings in a trench, carefully fork them out to avoid damaging the roots and plant them in their final location.
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Hardwood cuttings
To begin, choose a stem or stems between a withered bloom and the rose's woody base. One stem will make several cuttings. Remove the bloom and stem tip. Cut at a 45-degree angle, right above the first set of leaves at the top, and again above the last set of leaves at the stem's bottom. Aim for cuttings that are 4-8 inches long with three to five nodes (the regular intervals where buds, leaves, and stems emerge).
Next, consider "wounding the stem". This is done by increasing the surface area at the bottom of the stem for new roots to grow. You can do this by smashing the end of the stem with a hammer or blunt tool, making a thin cut along the stem with a knife, or cutting the stem at a high angle. For miniatures, take one narrow slice about 1/8-inch wide and 1/2-inch long at the bottom of each stem with a sharp knife. For larger stems, make two slices on opposite sides of each stem.
To start your cuttings, use a tray or container and plant at least 6 inches deep, so new roots have plenty of room to grow. A simple "soil" mix of equal parts coarse sand and perlite or vermiculite works well. Water the mix thoroughly once you're through.
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Rooting hormones
However, using rooting hormones can improve your odds of success. Rooting hormones stimulate root development and encourage growth. They are particularly useful when treating semi-hardwood cuttings and hardwood cuttings, which are slower and more difficult to root than softwood cuttings.
There are various rooting hormones available for propagating roses, including:
- GardenTech® RootBoost™ Rooting Hormone
- Hormex #3 powder
- Hormex #8 powder (0.8% Indole 3 Butyric Acid, IBA)
- Rhizopon #3 powder (0.8% IBA in talc)
- Dip 'N Grow (effective at a 1/5 dilution)
To use a rooting hormone, first wound the stems of the cuttings by removing thin strips of bark at the base of a cutting with a sharp knife. The more wounding is done, the better the rooting success. Then, dip the cuttings in the rooting hormone.
It is worth noting that the scientific literature indicates that auxin is essential to the initiation of root formation in cuttings. Auxin is a naturally occurring growth regulator in roses, and its amount and location will vary depending on the rose variety, the season, and other environmental factors. Therefore, the effectiveness of using rooting hormones may depend on these factors. Additionally, some sources suggest that rooting hormones are more effective at higher concentrations than those recommended by the manufacturer.
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Wounding the stem
There are several ways to wound a stem. One common method is to use a hammer or blunt tool to smash the end of the stem, creating a crushed surface that exposes the inner stem tissues. Another approach is to make a thin, straight cut along the stem with a sharp knife, increasing the surface area without removing any stem material. For miniature rose stems, a single narrow slice about 1/8-inch wide and 1/2-inch long at the bottom of the stem is sufficient. For larger stems, such as hybrid teas and shrubs, two slices on opposite sides of the stem are often made.
When taking cuttings, it is important to choose healthy, well-hydrated rose plants and make the cuttings in the morning when the plants are well-hydrated. The ideal cutting length is between 4 and 8 inches, with three to five nodes, which are the regular intervals where buds, leaves, and stems emerge. Choose stems with flower buds that are about to open or those beneath flowers that have started to drop their petals.
The type of stem cutting used depends on the time of year. Softwood cuttings are taken in spring and early summer when the stems are still flexible, making them the fastest and easiest to root. Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken in late summer and early fall when the stems have partially matured, and they are often the easiest to root. Hardwood cuttings, on the other hand, are taken in late fall or early winter when the stems have fully matured and entered dormancy, making them the slowest and most difficult to root.
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Frequently asked questions
The best time of year to take rose cuttings is in the spring and fall when daytime temperatures are between 55°F and 90°F (ideally between 70°F and 80°F).
There are three main types of stem cuttings used to propagate roses: softwood cuttings, semi-hardwood cuttings, and hardwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings are the fastest and easiest to root, taken from new, green stems in spring or early summer. Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken in late summer or early fall from partially matured stems. Hardwood cuttings are taken in late fall or early winter from fully matured stems and are the most difficult to root.
Choose healthy, well-hydrated rose stems and cut them at a 45-degree angle below the flower buds or flowers that have started to drop their petals. Aim for cuttings that are 4-8 inches long with 3-5 nodes. Remove the flower and lower leaves, and consider "wounding the stem" by smashing the end with a hammer or making a thin cut to increase the surface area for new roots to grow.
A simple and effective soil mix for planting rose cuttings is equal parts coarse sand and perlite or vermiculite. Water the mix thoroughly after planting the cuttings.
Rooting can occur within a couple of weeks, but it may take up to one or two months. When roots start to appear, you can begin to acclimate the new roses outside of the humidity cover. Give your rooted rose cuttings 9 to 12 months to develop before planting them in your garden.
