Ruqayyah Snyder
Apricot trees are a hardy variety that can be grown in most climates, although hot and dry summers will produce the best fruit. Apricots are typically purchased bare-rooted in winter and can be grown from seeds. They grow quickly and flower earlier than many other fruit trees, so frost can be a problem in some areas. To prevent this, choose a well-drained, fertile spot in your garden and dig a deep hole. Incorporating slotted pipe down the side of the hole will make it easy to deliver water directly to the roots.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Height | Typically 4m x 4m when fully grown. Dwarf forms grow to 2m |
| Foliage | Deciduous with bright green leaves turning vibrant yellow in autumn |
| Climate | Grows in cold or warm temperate climates. Hot, dry summers are required for flavour |
| Soil | Well-drained, slightly alkaline soil with organic matter |
| Position | Full sun, staked to protect from strong winds |
| Flowering and fruiting | White/pale pink fragrant flowers in spring. Fruits ripen from late November to January |
| Feeding | Regular feeding with a balanced, controlled-release fertiliser |
| Pruning | Maintain a vase shape to ensure good air movement and stronger growth. Pruning stimulates new growth and encourages fruit production |
| Frost | Heavy frost damages flowers, leading to less fruit |
| Bacterial and fungal diseases | Spray with Bordeaux mixture in autumn and late winter/early spring to prevent |
| Fruit fly | Devastating pest, prevention is key. Use traps and apply attractant bait |
| Harvesting | Fruit is ready for harvesting two years after planting |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right location and preparing the soil
Apricot trees are hardy and easy to grow in most climates, although they thrive in full sun and well-drained, slightly alkaline soil with plenty of organic matter. When choosing a location, opt for a sunny spot in your garden that is protected from strong winds. Dig a deep hole, incorporating a slotted pipe down the side for efficient watering. Ensure you leave ample space around the tree to allow for good air circulation and prevent fungal diseases.
Apricot trees are adaptable to a wide range of soils, but they prefer slightly alkaline soil with plenty of organic matter. Well-drained soil is essential to prevent waterlogging, which can cause root rot and other issues. If your soil is heavy or clay-based, consider adding sand or organic matter to improve drainage.
Before planting, it is important to prepare the soil adequately. Remove any weeds, rocks, or debris from the area and mix in a balanced, controlled-release fertiliser for fruiting trees. You can also add compost or manure to enrich the soil and promote healthy root development. Ensure the soil is moist but not soggy, as this can impact root establishment.
When planting your apricot tree, it is crucial to consider the mature size of the tree and select an appropriate location. Apricot trees typically grow to a height and width of 4 metres, so allow sufficient space for their canopy to spread. Ensure you plant at the same depth as the tree was in its container, and backfill the hole with the removed soil.
Staking your apricot tree is recommended, especially in windy locations. Drive two long stakes into the ground on either side of the hole, creating a supportive structure. This will help stabilise the young tree and protect it from strong winds, ensuring its roots can establish securely.
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Planting in winter
Apricot trees are generally purchased bare-rooted in winter. Choose a well-drained, fertile, and sunny spot in your garden to plant your apricot tree. Dig a hole deep and wide enough for the roots. Keep the topsoil so you can put it back in the bottom of the hole. If the hole is dry, fill it with water and let it drain away. Drive two long stakes into either side of the hole, make a small mound of topsoil in the bottom of the hole, and then spread the roots over it. Backfill your hole with the rest of the soil, making sure your tree is buried up to where it was in the container or bag. Incorporating some slotted pipe down the side of the hole will make delivering water direct to the roots both easy and efficient later on during hot weather.
Apricot trees grow well in most climates, although hot, dry summers will generate the best fruit. A winter chill is needed for the flowers to become fruit. While apricot trees are hardy, frost can be a problem in some areas. A heavy frost will damage flowers, leading to less fruit. To prevent this, you can spray with a Bordeaux mixture (a mixture of builder's lime and copper sulphate) when the leaves drop in autumn and again before the buds open in late winter/early spring.
Apricot trees provide an explosion of colour in autumn, as the leaves turn from bright green to vibrant yellow. Fragrant flowers in spring give way to luscious fruit in summer, which will ripen from late November to January. You should be harvesting fruit two years after planting, although it may take up to six years for your apricot tree to produce abundant fruit.
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Pruning for shape and health
Pruning is essential for maintaining the shape and health of your apricot tree, especially if you're growing it from seed. Here are some detailed instructions and tips for pruning your apricot tree in Australia:
Pruning Young Trees:
Start pruning your apricot tree when it is still young, ideally in its second year after planting. Begin by selecting three to five evenly spaced branches that form a well-structured framework for the tree. These branches should be spaced around the trunk, creating a balanced, open centre shape. Remove any competing central leaders to encourage the development of a strong, dominant leader.
Encourage strong growth and direct the shape of your tree by summer pruning. Pinch back the tips of the current season's growth to encourage the formation of buds and the development of a fuller tree. During winter, you can thin out any crowded or crossing branches to improve airflow and maintain the tree's shape.
Pruning Mature Trees:
For mature apricot trees, the focus shifts to maintaining an open centre and promoting good airflow. Aim to create a goblet-like shape with a balanced, open framework. Remove any branches that are growing inward towards the centre, as this can block airflow and sunlight penetration. Also, cut back any water shoots, which are vertical, vigorous shoots that can shade the fruit and reduce productivity.
Always prune any diseased, damaged, or dead branches to promote the overall health of the tree and prevent potential infections. Look out for common apricot tree diseases in Australia, such as bacterial canker, and prune accordingly in late spring after the threat of frost has passed.
Timing is crucial:
The best time to prune apricot trees in Australia is during their dormant period, typically from late winter to early spring. This timing helps reduce the risk of infection and ensures the tree has time to heal before spring growth commences. Avoid pruning in summer, as this can stimulate new growth that is susceptible to frost damage.
Pruning Techniques:
Mastering proper pruning techniques is essential for the health of your apricot tree. Always use sharp, clean pruning tools to make precise cuts and minimise damage to the tree. When removing larger branches, use the three-cut method to prevent bark tearing. First, make an You may want to see also Apricot trees can be very hardy, but they are vulnerable to frost damage and disease, especially when the buds open and the young leaves and blossoms are exposed. To prevent frost damage, you can use an umbrella-shaped frost cover to trap warmth under the canopy, shielding your tree. For additional warmth, place buckets of water underneath the canopy. The water will be warmer than the ambient temperature and will release heat overnight. You can also spray the tree with a tank mix the evening before a frost event is forecast, which will protect the tree for 7-10 days if temperatures are warm by day, and 10-14 days if temperatures are cool. To prevent disease, it is recommended to plant disease-resistant trees and maintain healthy, vigorously growing trees through pruning and soil maintenance. Test the soil for nutrient deficiencies and feed as needed with soil additives, especially nitrogen. Test the soil for ring nematodes in areas susceptible to canker, as these can stress and weaken apricot trees, making them more susceptible to the disease. Avoid planting in areas where canker-diseased trees previously grew. Some common diseases of apricot trees include bacterial canker, which causes dark, sunken sores at the base of buds and randomly along trunks and limbs. Gum may weep through these wounds, and the tree may die suddenly. Eutypa dieback, also known as gummosis or limb dieback, causes sudden wilt in apricots during late spring or summer, with discoloured and weepy bark. Phytophthora occurs primarily in gardens with poor drainage or chronic overwatering, damaging roots and crowns, and seriously injured apricot trees may collapse. Ripe fruit rot, also known as brown rot, is a fungal disease spread by wind and rain. It develops on mummified fruit left on the tree and settles on twigs. You may want to see also Apricot harvest is best accomplished when the fruit is completely ripe on the tree. The ripening period may extend over three weeks for some varieties, so picking apricots may span this time frame. You will know when to pick apricots when the fruits change from green to yellowish orange in colour and feel slightly softened, but still firm to the touch. The exact hue varies according to the cultivar, but regardless of the variety, all apricots soften extremely quickly, making them vulnerable to bruising and subsequent rotting. Gently pick the ripened fruits from the tree. The resulting apricot harvest will keep for approximately one to three weeks stored in a cool location, free from damaging factors such as additional weight upon the fruit, which may result in bruises and decay. The fruit is best stored in a single layer to minimize potential damage due to bruising. You may also decide to freeze the apricot harvest. First, wash, halve, and pit the fruit, then peel and slice. If unpeeled, heat in boiling water for half a minute. This will keep skins from getting tough in the freezer. Cool the blanched apricots in cold water, drain, and toss with a bit of ascorbic acid. Then either freeze directly or in a syrup or sugar mixture, or puree prior to freezing. Apricots often fruit heavily one year and not the next, but this can be remedied by reducing the fruit when they are small and green in the 'heavy' year. If all the energy goes into the crop one year, it won't be available for the next. Twist one out of three apricots from the branch to reduce numbers and this will also increase the size of the fruit. Thinning will ensure the branches don't break and the fruit gets more sunlight, air, and nutrients, making for a healthier tree with bigger and better-quality fruit. Thinning is best done in spring when the fruit is a couple of centimetres in diameter. It can be difficult to determine why apricots aren't ripening on the tree, but there's a good chance the tree is experiencing some sort of stress. For example, stress can be caused by unseasonably hot, dry weather. In the absence of rainfall, apricots need a good soaking every ten days. Stress can also be caused by a lack of sunlight. Be sure the variety is suitable for your USDA growing zone. Watch for signs of disease, including limb dieback, cankers, leaking sap, or sparse, light-coloured foliage. You may want to see alsoFree Texting in Australia: Best Apps and Services
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Preventing frost damage and disease
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