Green Tree Frog Care Guide: Tips For Success

how to care for an australian green tree frog

Australian Green Tree Frogs, also known as White's Tree Frogs, are native to Australia and New Guinea. They are a popular choice for first-time amphibian owners due to their vibrant appearance, manageable size, and relatively simple care requirements. These frogs are known for their bright green colour and their ability to climb and jump. They are long-lived, easy to maintain, and well-adjusted to life in captivity. Here is a comprehensive guide on how to care for them.

Characteristics Values
Common Name Australian Green Tree Frog, White's Tree Frog, Dumpy Tree Frog
Scientific Name Litoria caerulea
Size 3-4.5" long
Weight N/A
Lifespan 7-10 years in captivity, up to 25 years in the wild
Habitat Glass terrarium or vertical tank with plants and branches for climbing
Temperature 22-25°C during the day, slightly cooler at night
Humidity 50-70%
Substrate Sphagnum moss, foam rubber, large rocks, coconut fiber, or moist paper towels
Lighting Low-level UVB lighting (2.0 UVB)
Diet Crickets, cockroaches, earthworms, silkworms, slugs, moths, mealworms, wax worms, CalciWorms, small hornworms
Feeding Schedule Adults: 2-3 times per week; Juveniles: every 1-2 days
Water Chlorine-free, changed regularly, with a shallow water dish for soaking
Handling Tolerates a small amount of gentle handling with wet, soap-free hands
Health Prone to metabolic bone disease due to lack of UV light and calcium

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Enclosure: Glass or mesh, with vertical space to climb and a temperature gradient

Glass enclosures are great at allowing heat to escape, ensuring that the enclosure stays cool enough. A glass terrarium or a vertical tank is ideal for Australian green tree frogs as it provides them with enough height to climb. The tank should be at least 300mm in length and 450mm in height. A 45-litre tank is sufficient for one frog, but if you plan to keep multiple frogs, a larger tank of at least 75 litres is recommended.

The enclosure should have fake plants, bamboo, tree branches, PVC pipes, and other decorations to allow the frogs to climb and jump. Live plants like pothos, bromeliads, and ferns are great choices as they also help maintain humidity. A waterfall or some other form of water movement will increase evaporation and help maintain and stabilise the temperature and humidity of the air.

The roof of the enclosure should be made from a safe, breathable mesh to allow ventilation. The mesh ceiling can hold UV lights, which are essential for captive frogs. A good quality 2.0 UVB is recommended, and these globes are also good for promoting plant growth. 10.0 UVB globes should never be used for frogs as the UVB output is too high and can seriously hurt or kill them. 10 hours per day of light is sufficient.

Australian green tree frogs thrive in temperatures between 22-25°C during the day and slightly cooler at night. A large heat mat on one side of the glass enclosure can be used to regulate the temperature. This creates a small temperature gradient within the enclosure, allowing the frog to warm itself up or move away to cool down. If the enclosure is not able to get up to temperature with the heat mat alone, a small basking bulb may be implemented in the canopy as long as the temperatures do not exceed 75-80°F.

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Substrate: Use sphagnum moss, foam, rocks or paper towels. Avoid gravel or sand

When it comes to substrate, or flooring, for your Australian green tree frog's enclosure, there are several options to choose from. It is important to avoid abrasive and ingestible substrates. Gravel and sand, for example, should be avoided as they can cause impaction if ingested.

Instead, opt for a moisture-retaining substrate like sphagnum moss, which can be dampened to increase the humidity inside the enclosure. Sphagnum moss is a natural product that is absorbent and helps to create a humid environment. It is important to note that while sphagnum moss is generally safe, it should be replaced regularly to prevent the growth of mould or bacteria.

Another option is foam rubber, which can provide a soft and comfortable surface for your frog to move around on. It is important to choose a non-toxic variety to ensure the safety of your frog.

Large rocks can also be used as a substrate. They provide a natural and sturdy surface for your frog to climb and explore. It is important to choose rocks that are too large to be easily swallowed to prevent any potential gastrointestinal obstructions.

For smaller enclosures, moist paper towels can be used as a substrate. This provides a simple and cost-effective solution, allowing for easy cleaning and maintenance.

It is worth noting that some sources recommend using a mulch-type substrate, such as coconut fibre, which can help maintain humidity levels. However, it is crucial to avoid fine substrates that can be easily swallowed, as they can cause health issues for your frog.

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Temperature: Maintain 22-25°C during the day and slightly cooler at night

Australian green tree frogs require a near-constant air temperature of 22-25°C during the day, and slightly cooler temperatures at night. This can be achieved by sticking a large heat mat to one side of the glass enclosure, which can be regulated using a thermostat. This will create a small temperature gradient within the enclosure, allowing the frog to warm itself up or move away to cool down. If the enclosure is too cold, a small basking bulb may be implemented in the canopy, provided temperatures do not exceed 75-80°F.

If you do not live in a warm climate, another option is to use an aquarium heater placed in the water. The water should be heated to 24-26°C, which should ensure that the air temperature remains above 18°C. A waterfall or some other form of water movement will increase evaporation and help maintain and stabilise the temperature and humidity of the air.

It is important to note that green tree frogs are arboreal frogs that require different levels in their enclosure. This can be achieved with fake plants, bamboo, tree branches, or PVC pipes. The enclosure walls are best made from glass or Perspex, and the roof should be made from a safe, breathable mesh.

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Diet: Gut-loaded insects like crickets, cockroaches, and waxworms. Dust with calcium

Australian green tree frogs are insectivores and eat a variety of live insects in the wild. Their diet should include gut-loaded insects like crickets, cockroaches, and waxworms.

Gut-loading is the process of allowing insects to feed on nutrient-rich foods before being fed to your frog. Insects that are commercially available as feeders are often deficient in nutrients like calcium, vitamin D3, vitamin A, vitamin E, and vitamin B1. Gut-loading helps the insects carry the necessary nutrients in their digestive tracts, which are then absorbed by your frog. The insects should be allowed to feed on the nutrient-rich diet for 24 to 72 hours before being fed to your frog.

Calcium is a crucial mineral for frogs, and a lack of calcium can lead to metabolic bone disease, a common condition in captive frogs. You can ensure your frog receives enough calcium by gut-loading insects with calcium-rich foods or by dusting the insects with calcium powder before feeding.

In addition to gut-loading, you can also provide calcium supplementation to your frog. Repashy Calcium Plus and Repashy Supercal LoD are popular choices for calcium supplementation. However, it is important to note that too much calcium can also be detrimental.

Along with calcium, vitamin D3 is essential for frogs. In the wild, frogs synthesize vitamin D3 from sunlight. If your frog is not exposed to UVB light, you may need to provide a supplement that contains both calcium and vitamin D3. However, if your frog has access to UVB lighting, you can provide calcium without D3.

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Health: Provide UV light to prevent metabolic bone disease. Check-ups every 6-12 months

Health

Provide UV Light to Prevent Metabolic Bone Disease

Australian green tree frogs require ultraviolet (UV) light to prevent metabolic bone disease. In the wild, these frogs receive a fair amount of UV light as they inhabit jungle regions. In captivity, they should be provided with a UVB source that reflects this.

You can implement a 5-6% UV tube or the equivalent compact light in a canopy above the mesh ceiling of the enclosure. A good quality 2.0 UVB is recommended, as 10.0 UVB globes can be too strong for frogs.

Frogs should be able to bask within 20 cm of the UV light for it to be effective. T5 tubes should be replaced every 9 months, and compact lamps should be replaced every 6 months.

Check-ups Every 6-12 Months

It is recommended to take your Australian green tree frog for health checks every 6-12 months. Signs of illness include lack of appetite, lethargy, abnormal behaviour, and discolouration or sores on their skin.

Frequently asked questions

An Australian Green Tree Frog's habitat should be a glass terrarium or a vertical tank with a mesh roof to allow ventilation and light. The tank should be at least 300mm in length and 450mm in height, with enough height for the frog to climb. The habitat should be decorated with fake plants, bamboo, tree branches, PVC pipes, and large rocks to allow for climbing.

Australian Green Tree Frogs thrive in temperatures between 22-25°C during the day and slightly cooler at night. A heat lamp, under-tank heater, or heat mat can be used to maintain these temperatures. They require UVB lighting, which can be provided by a 5-6% UV tube or a compact light. The lights should be placed within 20 cm of the frog for effectiveness.

Australian Green Tree Frogs are insectivores and eat various live insects, including crickets, cockroaches, earthworms, silkworms, slugs, moths, mealworms, and wax worms. It is important to gut-load these insects with calcium and vitamin D3 supplements to prevent nutritional diseases.

Australian Green Tree Frogs can tolerate a small amount of handling, but it should be done carefully and gently. When handling the frog, use wet hands to avoid damaging its sensitive skin, and ensure your hands are free of soap and cream. Support their entire body, as they can become stressed if handled improperly.

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